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Old 10-25-2016, 01:19 PM   #76
NSFW
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I've got the spec B wide-ratio gears working against me with this.
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Old 10-25-2016, 03:33 PM   #77
Scuby04STi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave D. View Post
That's where my jdm close-ratio 6-speed makes my car really fun to drive. Maybe not the best for drag racing, but keeps me in the powerband at all times, and the 3k peak powerband allows me to hold a gear if I need to. Hoping to autocross this spring -- could probably run it all in 3rd, given my novice driving level.
Gears make all the difference, but with more power comes the option to lengthen gears if the power band hold well. Mine is an '04 and I loved the gearing, until I added power then I wanted to be able to hold 3rd and 4th out longer using 5th at the drag strip was just stupid. Swapped to the '07 3rd and 4th now 4th goes up till 128ish @8k compared to only 114 @8k before. Shifting at 8,000rpm keeps me well into the power band even after the gear swap.
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Old 10-29-2016, 09:44 PM   #78
Scuby04STi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tehnation View Post
For the 92 octane what was your idc? And this is 1300cc injectors?
70% on 92, just checked this morning.
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Old 05-21-2018, 06:43 PM   #79
tehnation
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2005 Legacy GT Stg 3

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Life came up and bitch slapped me.... but I'm back to racecar...... like iron mike said "everyone has a plan until they get punched in the mouth".

So I went with the Manley 15024-4, H Tuffs, i got them for a steal off amazon for 270 bucks. Don't know how, I just saw it and pulled the trigger. Got my arp head studs 260- 4701, and bc springs BC0600 for my heads.

Dropping off the case halves to machine shop next week, to have them balance rotating assembly, measure and hone cylinders to figure out what size pistons(either 99.5 632200C-4/632200CE-4 or 99.55 632201C-/632201CE-4) going with the Manley turbo tuffs 2618(the ptw is damn near close to stock, so longevity is better because no wall slapping) . Going with ACL for main and rod bearings, any other recommendations for bearings?

I thought I had everything figured out until I went to buy the cams, I was going to originally get the BC stage 2 272 cams, but it seems they have a new stage 2+ billet cam at 276 duration..... So I'm thinking I may go with them the 2+.

Also for pistons, I know the difference between the manley standard and extreme duty are the pins. Standard is 2.500” x .180” wall Premium Chrome Moly pin (Standard Series) included P/N 42346, and the Extreme Duty is 9310 alloy .210” wall pin (Extreme Duty Series) included P/N 42546. Not sure how this effects my build, but for a 100 dollars more why not? What significance would it play?

Any thoughts?
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Old 05-21-2018, 11:00 PM   #80
Scuby04STi
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Hmmm . . . Mine is still clicking off miles so had zero clue they added billet to to lineup. I say you buy those, second guess them and trade me straight across for my 272's lol.

To be honest when it comes to anything engine wise I feel rule #1 is find a guy you really trust to do it, give him your goals and then ask him what to make the check out for, lol. Engines are a mess of parts that need to match well to work the best they can, and most over think it when the old dude at the shop has done 3 a day for 40 freaken years, lol. Seriously my machine shop guy doesn't likely know what a forum is, let alone that confounded internet. (Only joking). Yet my engine has baffled my tuner simply because he knows how I drive it and it hasn't skipped a beat.

Only thing I know he specifically wanted me to do was go with a custom arise piston to bore as little as we could seeing our cylinder walls are weak. And balance everything!!!
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Old 05-21-2018, 11:37 PM   #81
tehnation
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I have a choice of 2 awesome machine shops but they both say the same thing lol, "whatever you want". I'm basically doing a stock rebuild with better rods, pistons and bearings. I'm having them do all the precision work, balancing, bearings, honing and sizing the right pistons. Everything will be stock tolerances, so their isn't really much input from them, not until you go full racetrack and nitrous, meth etc.. I'm trying to rebuild my block with better parts for as much or as close as possible to a new shortblock 1700-2k dollars. I can put the block back together, I just don't have any precision tools.

Last edited by tehnation; 05-21-2018 at 11:42 PM.
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Old 05-29-2018, 02:31 PM   #82
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King or ACL bearings??? My engine builder provides both but doesn't have a preference.....I was quoted 900 for hot tank, hone, rotating assembly balance @ 10k rpm(overbalance) and assembly. 900+ costs of crank and rod bearings! I called like 10 different shops.. knowledge is power... every place I called wanted to charge 425+ for balance, while they charge 250, which tells me all the other shops outsource!!! Always look for the source! All machine shops are not created equal!

This is just assembly not rebuild, terminology and details drastically affect price. I pulled my engine complete apart, separated rods from crank, split block etc. That costs money for someone to do, but is easy to do on your own. My goal was to rebuild my shortblock for 1700-2k.... we will see how this unfolds. If I can rebuild my shortblock with better rods and pistons for same price as stock block, then this route would be better for the diy enthusiasts. I'm using the manley platinum series turbo tuff pistons and rods, either 632200CE-4(99.50mm) or 632201CE-4(99.55mm) extreme duty pistons, my builder will recommend the best piston size to get .03-.035 ptw. I also purchased 15024-4 H tuff rods for 270.. so for shortblock I am at 270+900+120(assumed cost of rod and crank bearings)+650(pistons)=1940!

Last edited by tehnation; 05-29-2018 at 03:01 PM.
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Old 06-11-2018, 11:07 PM   #83
mharris137
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i bet that thing sounds mean spinning up past 8000 though
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Old 08-08-2018, 01:50 AM   #84
tehnation
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I dropped everything off at the machine shop on Friday.



BC Stage 3 Cams BC0622 $650
BC Springs BC0600 $215
Manley Turbo Tuff Extreme Duty Pistons 632800CE-4 99.50 -17cc 8.5cr $650
Manley H-Tuff Rods 15024-4 $275
ARP Head Stud Kit 260-4701 $185
Subaru STi 11mm 15010AA360 Oil Pump $130
Subaru 10105AA720 Engine Gasket Kit $235
Cost to rebuild longblock, includes hot tank and 10k rpm balance, with King Bearings $1600 and whatever extra if they need to readjust the heads after assembling longblock.
Total $3940

Essentially it was $1k to rebuild the longblock and $300 per head, if I were to get it separate, so might as well have them do it all for 1600! I ended up with a good deal they tossed in the install of the oil pump as well.

$1925 vs spending $1700-$1900 for a new shortblock, I was able to build a nice new block with much better goodies! By doing a complete tear down I saved a lot on rebuild costs.
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Old 08-14-2018, 12:23 AM   #85
PDXREALTOR
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Subbed. Nice work.
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