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Old 05-28-2003, 10:54 AM   #1
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 11627
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Chico, CA
Question Rear Camber Bolts?

Do any of you know if I could buy rear camber bolts for a Legacy? I found them everywhere for my Impreza WRX, but I have not seen where to buy them for a 2002 Legacy. Please assist me

Also, What is a good alignment spec for a 2002 Legacy wagon with a 20mm rear swaybar? I want front and rear camber specs (even if rear camber is not adjustable) so I can compare the alignment specs with what is should be. I got an alignment yesterday for my WRX wagon and I had no idea I needed rear camber bolts to adjust the rear camber. They fixed the front from zero camber to -1 but the rear is -1.6 and -1.3 on the other side. Not good! I want -.7 in the rear or less, so I NEED those bolts.

Would be nice to find the bolts for the Legacy too, if there is such a thing. Please let me know.
Thanks, Heather
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Old 05-29-2003, 04:21 PM   #2
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 11627
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Chico, CA
Default KCA414

Product ID: KCA414 Whiteline Camber adj bolt kit-14mm -
Will this kit fir the 2002 Legacy?
Is there any other way to adjust rear camber that is not too expensive?
Are these alignment setting good:
LEGACY alignment:
Toe: L = 0 Out R= 0 Out
Camber: L= -.75 R = -.75
Toe: L = 0 out R = 0 Out
Camber: L= -.5 R= -.5
Thrust Line = 0
Center the wheel.
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Old 05-31-2003, 07:00 PM   #3
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Chico, CA
Post If anyone is interested...

I did extensive research on this and there are no rear camber bolts to fit the Legacy. As it turns out they are not needed. According to Whiteline and MRT there should be equal or more negative camber in the front then the rear. This is a problem for my WRX who has -.9 front and -1.6 rear, and luckily they do make rear camber bolts for her.

We had the Legacy aligned today and we set the front camber to -.7 (it was -.2 L +.1 right) and the rear is set to -.6, which is perfect. Our toe was out in the rear, so we set it to zero. We both feel the straight line stablilty is much better with the front and rear toe at zero (the front toe was set to zero already), even though Whiteline and MRT recommend 1mm toe out in the rear.

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Old 05-31-2003, 07:18 PM   #4
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Member#: 2184
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Highland Park, Ill., USA
2005 Legacy GT wagon
Platinum Silver Metallic


Stock camber on the WRX is in the range of -1.3. Your alignment shop should be able to loosen the rear struts, and with some pulling and tugging, get things in spec. Camber bolts shouldn't be necessary.

I've had my WRX wagon for two years now, running -.9 at the front and stock of -1.3 at the rear with 0 toe, and tire wear is fine. Hinky toe settings will kill tires faster than camber settings, as long as you aren't -3.0 or some such.

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Old 05-31-2003, 07:35 PM   #5
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Chico, CA
Thumbs up no tire wear

That's good to know Gtguy. I just spent a fortune on my Michelin Pilot Sport A/S tires and my concern was rear tire wear more then anything else. I have read negative camber in excess of -1 will cause excessive wear on the inside shoulder of the tires. If this is not the case I will not bother with the rear camber bolts. The MRT WRX Training book is pretty darn convincing about having less negative camber in the rear then the front, stating that extra rear negative camber causes excessive understeer. I can not concur since after adding the 20mm rear swaybar I feel no understeer during street driving. Tire wear was my concern. Did you look closely at the inside shoulder of your rear tires to see if there is more wear there?

Side note: Are the P1's the same as OZ Superleggras? Do they also weigh 15 pounds per 17" wheel? Are they cheaper and where did you get them? What do the P7's weigh?
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Old 05-31-2003, 08:34 PM   #6
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Member#: 1847
Join Date: Jul 2000
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: brokenmotorsports.com
Team Broken: V6 GF


You can find the factory specs in your owners manual

The rear camber in you wrx is with in spec.

Having that much neg camber in the rear, really wont wear the inside edge of the tires...for the simple fact that they dont turn.

When you have that much in the front the inside edge wears faster cause the wheels turn...and they toe out on turns, 'dragging' the inside of the tire, The more neg camber the more the tire 'drags'

I always try to match my front and rear camber. Without going oover -1.0 degree in the front.

What gtguy said will work but you most likely will only get .10 - .20 adjustment out of that.

Having rear camber closer to 0, ie. less negative, will induce oversteer

The ammount of understeer will change a little but not much, it will just be easier to rotate the car with less neg camber in the rear, especially with a turbo car, on tight turns when the turbo spools up.

this is the reason why there is so much neg rear camber from the factory. Manfactures use the 'emergency lane change' test. They dont want the car oversteering into the barrier because some one had to avoid being cut off...(most of this is based using middle age women drivers). To make the car 'neutral' in this situation, it produces understeer at lower speed hard turns.


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