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Old 12-24-2012, 02:35 PM   #1
lelikmed
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Default 2000 Impreza RS Rally Build

Cage FIA 5000
Gravel used coilovers Ohlins/Profelx 5000
Seat Recaro Pro Hans 1350
seat slider 94.5
Side Mount Braket 87
Harness Schroeth Profi II 6pHans 324
Hans Professional 945
Suit OMP 3lr 850
Brakes 2006 WRX 4/2pot/rotos/pads 1500
Brake Bias RKT motorsport 300
Door Trim RKT motrsport 300
Communication Peltor FMT120+Helmet kit 358
Tires gravel used 1000

Seat co driver Recaro Pro Hans XL 1619
Seat Slider 94.5
Side Mount braket 100
Harness co driver Schroeth Profi II 6pHans 324
Hans Professional 945
Suit OMP 3lr 850
Communication Peltor full helmet kit 126
Hand Brake RKT motorsport 500
Mud Flaps 250
Skid plate rear kit Primitive 100
Skid Plate front heavy RKT motorsport 1000
Team Dynamic gravel wheels x 6 1150
Long Studs kit APR 130
Wheel spacer H&R 40
Triangle x 3 60
First Aid kit 80
Hood Pins Sparco/OMP 35
reading map light Terratrip 70
Spill kit 20
Lightning Hellax4 and pod 1000


TOTAL around 27k
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Old 12-24-2012, 02:58 PM   #2
lelikmed
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Rally is expensive
As you can see - no engine modes. this is just to start !
Starting in march 2013
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Old 12-24-2012, 10:23 PM   #3
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Check the certification on the Peltor and make sure it is legal for your series. I know some of the older models used a British rally cert that is no longer being honored.

Also why the extra 450 for the Hans pro? They're the same thing aside from maybe 8oz... good luck this season!

Last edited by Aceyduce; 12-24-2012 at 10:29 PM.
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Old 12-25-2012, 09:46 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Aceyduce View Post
Check the certification on the Peltor and make sure it is legal for your series. I know some of the older models used a British rally cert that is no longer being honored.

Also why the extra 450 for the Hans pro? They're the same thing aside from maybe 8oz... good luck this season!
Hans pro - significantly lighter - so much that you can easily feel it. I feel it worth it.

US Rally Championship and NASA Rally Pro - easy going series.
Rally America is complete opposite.
We'll try to do 2 or 3 rally this season and then will see.
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Old 12-25-2012, 11:19 AM   #5
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Now that I've had some coffee in me, where are you located and if I may point out some places to save:

Are you planning on running this thing across the pond? Based on the USRC (which I doubt will exist much longer) and NASA events you are planning on, look at a RA/NASA cage as it makes more sense. Otherwise you need a TON of paperwork... and more money than brains.

Recaro seats- nice but $$. Talk to Charles from Safe Drives- the OMP's are very nice and comfy. I run Cobras. Have you actually spent 2+ hours in the seats to make sure they fit you? You can save ~4-$600 per seat there.

Seat sliders? Do you mean floor mounted seat rails?

Used tires wont run you that much, call Justin at Dmack and get the size and compound you need for new ones if you want. Or learn on used rubber for a lot less ($20-$70 per).

Your build and timeline looks ambitious and I hope that it works out for you. Have you factored in your tows and lodging for each event? What previous experience do you have?

Best of luck and Merry Christmas- don't forget to fill out your location and let u know what events are are planning on attending.
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Old 12-25-2012, 11:50 AM   #6
lelikmed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aceyduce View Post
Now that I've had some coffee in me, where are you located and if I may point out some places to save:

Are you planning on running this thing across the pond? Based on the USRC (which I doubt will exist much longer) and NASA events you are planning on, look at a RA/NASA cage as it makes more sense. Otherwise you need a TON of paperwork... and more money than brains.

Recaro seats- nice but $$. Talk to Charles from Safe Drives- the OMP's are very nice and comfy. I run Cobras. Have you actually spent 2+ hours in the seats to make sure they fit you? You can save ~4-$600 per seat there.

Seat sliders? Do you mean floor mounted seat rails?

Used tires wont run you that much, call Justin at Dmack and get the size and compound you need for new ones if you want. Or learn on used rubber for a lot less ($20-$70 per).

Your build and timeline looks ambitious and I hope that it works out for you. Have you factored in your tows and lodging for each event? What previous experience do you have?

Best of luck and Merry Christmas- don't forget to fill out your location and let u know what events are are planning on attending.
I live in Orange county in Hudson Valley NY, just 60 min outside NYC.
I was thinking runing Rally NY if it happens this year. Last year was canceled. Black River NY with NASA. may be something else.
They in 2014 I may run with Rally America in NEFR and Waste Management Rally in PA. We will see. That's why I want FIA cage. Konstantin from RKT Motorsport in Newburg NY will buy it and build it for me, he has a guy to give me a log book for USRC and NASA.

Recaro Pro most comfortable. Sparco - just hurts my back. OMP - ok but not as comfortable and cost almost as Recaro. Haven't tried Cobra. I guess that would be Cobra Siebring - model.

Seat sliders - I guess they are seat rails. Not sure what for though, but guy in Stable Energies quoted me all seats and seat accessories.

I prefer used rubber. I got only 160 HP - 130 at wheels with standard RS.
So I won't shred them so much. I just need a source of used tires. Do you know any?

As far as experience - since 2010 we do around 7 to 8 Track days/Time Trials weekends a year around NY - Watkins Glen, LimeRock, NJ Thunderbolt, Mosport. I got BMW 135i, which I am trying to sell or trade in.
I did some RallyX and couple Okemo hill climbs with this Subaru.

The initial cost are always high, but later once the car is established, hopefully won't be so bad. But this what we like - ...

Mary Christmas
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Old 12-25-2012, 12:20 PM   #7
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Konstantin is a good guy. He will treat you well. RallyNY is on the NASA schedule for April 20-21 this year. BRS is one of my favorite events. I have a few used tires but they're a bit wide for your needs. I'm sure Konstatin has a couple or knows guys that have some.

Rally is truly the friendliest form of motorsport in my opinion as we depend on each other more than any other type of racing. Hope we see you out there on the stages!
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Old 12-25-2012, 01:40 PM   #8
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There was a guy who documented his low-budget RS rally build on the Toronto Subaru Club site last year. He ended up taking the Ontario Regional championship by placing first in three of six regional-level events and finishing fourth at Tall Pines (which is a 50+ entry national-level event), in his rookie year. Notwithstanding the obvious driving skill, you might want to look for his thread to see what he did to build a winning car cheap.
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Old 12-25-2012, 02:27 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Howl View Post
There was a guy who documented his low-budget RS rally build on the Toronto Subaru Club site last year. He ended up taking the Ontario Regional championship by placing first in three of six regional-level events and finishing fourth at Tall Pines (which is a 50+ entry national-level event), in his rookie year. Notwithstanding the obvious driving skill, you might want to look for his thread to see what he did to build a winning car cheap.
if you have a link i'd be happy to read his build
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Old 12-25-2012, 05:50 PM   #10
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I built my rally car in 6 weeks for about $6k. It's just as much fun to drive, and won't hurt my pocket book as badly when I crash...notice I said "when" and not "if". Something to think about, especially since I've seen a bunch of used rally cars for sale lately, for less than half what this will cost you. Plus, you can be on stage asap.
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Old 12-25-2012, 06:37 PM   #11
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I built my rally car in 6 weeks for about $6k. It's just as much fun to drive, and won't hurt my pocket book as badly when I crash...notice I said "when" and not "if". Something to think about, especially since I've seen a bunch of used rally cars for sale lately, for less than half what this will cost you. Plus, you can be on stage asap.
Well ...
I just don't see anything that I can safe on:

Cage ? - you need a good cage.
Seats? - you need full head protection seats.
Harness - ? You can't buy cheap or used.
Coilovers - you need a good examples (Ohlins/Profelx) otherwise they brake or overheat so you can't control the car
Underbody - ? you can't start without it.
Wheels ? - got to have a rally proven wheels...
Everything else is just driver related things - suits, Hans, Intercom... etc
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Old 12-25-2012, 07:00 PM   #12
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Actually, none of that is true.

First off, there are cheaper cars to rally than a Subaru.

But if you insist...

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1687610
You would have to call for current pricing, but it shouldn't differ too much

So, $2300 and you've got a cage, seats, belts, and paddding. Add in a pair of extinguishers and a spill kit, and you've got a rally car that will pass tech. You don't *need* full head protection seats. I run a set of $100 corbeau seats. You don't need expensive harnesses - I have 5 point latch style ones I get from Summit Racing for $60 each (they need to be replaced every 2 years, so why spend more than you have to?).

Since you are new, your goal should be finishing.

You can technically finish an event on stock suspension, so for your first event, I wouldn't spend the money unless you have it to burn. You could get by with a set of hotbits coilovers as well, but if you find a good deal on Ohlins or DMS, you might as well grab them. I just want you to realize that you don't have to wait to do an event until you get the proper suspension.

Stock alloy wheels are plenty strong enough if you don't crash into stuff. I run stock jeep alloy wheels, and I *have* crashed into stuff. They may crack, but they hold air and get me to the service. I find them for about $20/each, and buy as many as I can get my hands on. I know guys that have won their class on stock subaru wheels, so I know it can be done.

What do you mean by "underbody"?

Suit - a $200 multilayer suit works just as well as a $1000+ suit at keeping you from burning too badly. The nice suits are lighter and breathe better though, so I can understand why people buy them.

I have a $100 helmet - yeah, it's not carbon fiber or super light, but it passes tech and I got to spend the money I saved on other things I needed.


I could go on and on about how to do rally cheaply, but what I have found is that most people that are trying to "get into rally" think it's some sort of top tier professional series and you need all of this junk to do it. Sure, there will be those types of people at the event, but there will actually be more people that do it on a budget, and sometimes do it better. I can't tell you the number of times I've beat Ken Block, just because he crashed and I didn't. So you need to decide which path you want to go down - do you want to be that guy that is trying to be professional and make a career out of it, or do you want to be the guy having a blast without breaking the bank?
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Old 12-25-2012, 07:20 PM   #13
lelikmed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sureshot007 View Post
Actually, none of that is true.

First off, there are cheaper cars to rally than a Subaru.

But if you insist...

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1687610
You would have to call for current pricing, but it shouldn't differ too much

So, $2300 and you've got a cage, seats, belts, and paddding. Add in a pair of extinguishers and a spill kit, and you've got a rally car that will pass tech. You don't *need* full head protection seats. I run a set of $100 corbeau seats. You don't need expensive harnesses - I have 5 point latch style ones I get from Summit Racing for $60 each (they need to be replaced every 2 years, so why spend more than you have to?).

Since you are new, your goal should be finishing.

You can technically finish an event on stock suspension, so for your first event, I wouldn't spend the money unless you have it to burn. You could get by with a set of hotbits coilovers as well, but if you find a good deal on Ohlins or DMS, you might as well grab them. I just want you to realize that you don't have to wait to do an event until you get the proper suspension.

Stock alloy wheels are plenty strong enough if you don't crash into stuff. I run stock jeep alloy wheels, and I *have* crashed into stuff. They may crack, but they hold air and get me to the service. I find them for about $20/each, and buy as many as I can get my hands on. I know guys that have won their class on stock subaru wheels, so I know it can be done.

What do you mean by "underbody"?

Suit - a $200 multilayer suit works just as well as a $1000+ suit at keeping you from burning too badly. The nice suits are lighter and breathe better though, so I can understand why people buy them.

I have a $100 helmet - yeah, it's not carbon fiber or super light, but it passes tech and I got to spend the money I saved on other things I needed.


I could go on and on about how to do rally cheaply, but what I have found is that most people that are trying to "get into rally" think it's some sort of top tier professional series and you need all of this junk to do it. Sure, there will be those types of people at the event, but there will actually be more people that do it on a budget, and sometimes do it better. I can't tell you the number of times I've beat Ken Block, just because he crashed and I didn't. So you need to decide which path you want to go down - do you want to be that guy that is trying to be professional and make a career out of it, or do you want to be the guy having a blast without breaking the bank?
Thanks for advice man.
I realize if can get across the Ohlins or Proflex or DMS I'll invest, other wise I'll go with my AGX/Ground control set up.
regarding cage and seats - I just have to go with a best stuff : FIA cage, most comfortable seats with head enclosure.
If I can't find used Hans Professional -I will buy it new.
Underbody - I mean protection under the car - front and rear.
I didn't know Jeep wheels would fit 2000 Impreza. What type of Jeep?
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Old 12-25-2012, 07:36 PM   #14
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Jeep wheels fit my rally Jeep. They won't fit your impreza. But I know a handful of the 15" alloys are pretty strong.

"FIA cage" is just a bunch of rules on cage design. You can pay someone to "custom make" one for you, which will cost you like $5k+, or you can just buy the kit.

Safety isn't something you want to skimp on, but it's also something you don't want to go overboard with. A tank would be the safest thing to be on course with, but is overkill. What I'm trying to say is you can get headwing seats for $350 each, instead of $1000/each.

I have an old standard HANS, and the weight is really a non-issue. When you have it on, your belts are compressing it on your shoulders, so it really doesn't matter what it weighs.

A skid plate under the engine is a really good idea minimally, but you don't need to spend a ton on that stuff. Just get a piece of 3/16" sheet metal and bolt it up. It doesn't need to be pretty - no one is going to see it (hopefully).
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Old 12-25-2012, 08:28 PM   #15
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Quote:
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if you have a link i'd be happy to read his build
http://www.toronto-subaru-club.com/f...-rallycar.html
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Old 12-26-2012, 09:40 AM   #16
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My driver recently sold an open light class/championship winning Impreza for around $10K complete with seats/harnesses... The only thing the buyer needed to get was personal protection equipment.

You can build rally cars or you can race them - it's tough to do both. Spending $10K on an already built car would let you run every event on the east coast for the next 2 seasons with the budget you outlined above, and $10K should get you a car that's ready to rock.

Rally America will not allow your Peltor after the end of 2013 and I'm guessing NASA will eventually follow suit. If I was buying a new helmet, I would not buy a BSI Peltor right now.

So, buy an already built car, that's the best advice I can give you.

Also, I paid $500 for my HANS, brand new, but from someone who was getting out of racing. IMHO, the fancy carbon fiber is not worth it. You don't feel it either way if you are strapped in tight enough.

The spring rally NY event is coming back as a tarmac event in April sanctioned by NASA. It's hard to say if the other rally NY events will be back or not. "Rally NY" no longer exists as a sanctioning body/promoter.

J. Lantzy - co-driver
(19 rallies since 2009 with NASA, RA, and CARS)
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Old 12-26-2012, 09:45 AM   #17
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I have this exact conversation at least once a month. Like I said on specialstage, I think this is one of the biggest problems facing american rally - the perception that you need to build an expensive car in order to run an event.
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Old 12-26-2012, 09:57 AM   #18
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All rally cars are huge piles of **** after their first event.

Buy someone else's pile of **** and try that before building your own, getting frustrated, and rage quitting.
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Old 12-26-2012, 03:37 PM   #19
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I happen to know the guy that currently owns the StudBug, and is looking to sell. 100% stage ready, with a winning pedigree. Less than $10K too.
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Old 12-26-2012, 03:42 PM   #20
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If you need some Hotbits... I have a rebuilt set sitting around!

Good luck!

- brian
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Old 12-26-2012, 07:34 PM   #21
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I happen to know the guy that currently owns the StudBug, and is looking to sell. 100% stage ready, with a winning pedigree. Less than $10K too.
You need to understand that some people dream of rallying and some dream of rallying a Subaru, especially here.
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Old 12-26-2012, 07:46 PM   #22
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I totally get that.

But even if you dream of rallying a subaru, there are cheap ways....

Shameless Plug for a friend: "Rally on a Budget - The Subaru Rally GC Manual" by Randy Zimmer
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Old 12-26-2012, 09:57 PM   #23
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Got my first order today.
From Primitive Racing:
Team Dynamics wheels 15x6
Front Skid Plate 3/16
Rear Diff cover 3/16
--------------------$1166

New Rear 2006 WRX 2 pots with WRX Rotors and pads - eBay - $400
Still need fronts

Got a set Nokian Hakapelitas 7 studed --->

Adirondack Ice racing
www.icerace.com
January till March....
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Old 12-27-2012, 10:48 AM   #24
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I'm not sure what everyone else uses, but I always use Napa Premium rotors. They are cheap, and are known to withstand track events. Plus, they technically have a warranty on them, so you can get them replaced after every event But even at $50-70 a rotor, it's dirt cheap and effective.
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Old 12-27-2012, 10:52 AM   #25
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Quote:
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I'm not sure what everyone else uses, but I always use Napa Premium rotors. They are cheap, and are known to withstand track events. Plus, they technically have a warranty on them, so you can get them replaced after every event But even at $50-70 a rotor, it's dirt cheap and effective.
Yep Napa Premiums or Centric. No point in spending a fortune.
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