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Old 05-27-2017, 11:56 AM   #1
no694terry
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Default Bought a tig, couple questions.

Trying to expand my abilties. Ive done a luttle tig but nothing serious. My new project is replacing my rotated uppipe. Its also got a ewg.

Are you guys using filler rod on tight butt joints or just fusing? Size, i have some 16ga 308L and it seems a bit much

And are you guys purgeing inside of pipe to reduce the slag/sugar on inside joints.

And how lo g can expect to get out of a 20cft argon bottle?
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Old 05-27-2017, 02:02 PM   #2
no694terry
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Figured out how long a 20cft bottle lasts

As far as i got. Had to use mig to finish fit up


Last edited by no694terry; 05-27-2017 at 03:56 PM.
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Old 05-27-2017, 05:34 PM   #3
Wayne Suhrbier
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In general keep a filler rod in your off hand in case you need to add a little even on welds you don't think you will need it. You want your welds to be a little thicker than the base metal.
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Old 05-29-2017, 03:24 PM   #4
danscomp
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On turbo stuff I'd definitely suggest backpurge + add filler. It'll see a lot of heat, plus you don't want the sugaring to accidentally break off and go into the turbo (not super likely but why chance it)
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Old 05-30-2017, 09:15 AM   #5
no694terry
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talked to Butler gas, Im going to lease a 125 for $75/yr. They'll refill/exchange it for $35 so thats not too bad.
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Old 05-31-2017, 08:47 AM   #6
rtv900
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you used up that bottle on just that????

also, you should always use filler other than very specific cases where it would be called out for none.
Otherwise it's way more likely to crack.
How much amperage does your unit go up to?
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Old 05-31-2017, 09:08 AM   #7
no694terry
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtv900 View Post
you used up that bottle on just that????

also, you should always use filler other than very specific cases where it would be called out for none.
Otherwise it's way more likely to crack.
How much amperage does your unit go up to?
I was doing some other practicing. I had maybe an hour of tig seat time total before this. I got it pretty much finished last night, i still have to bolt it into the car and fit the bracket to the head.

I think most of my trouble can be fixed with a more comfortable stool and bench. Right now im basically working on the cement floor. I manage to eat away an entire 1/16 tungsten and basically had to double pass everything, one pass with filler, second pass to smooth it out.

It goes to 165amp, just a cheap tig. I dont plan to get very serious with it. The highest i needed was 100 amp and that was at the flanges





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Old 05-31-2017, 09:50 AM   #8
rtv900
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well you are right on about a good stool and bench being super important.
getting the piece right at comfortable low chest height when sitting makes a huge difference. Your back will start to ache like all hell when you are crunching over to reach something, not to mention keeping good foot position for the pedal.
165 sounds fine for most personal stuff, and yeah I could see blowing through that tank in an hour of welding.
You really shouldn't pass back over the bead with no filler to smooth it out. The fish scale pattern is typical and once you get good that pattern will look great.
Doesn't look bad for a beginner.
fyi, I made a nice stool that threads down into it's frame with a piece of threaded rod, so that way depending what I am working on I can spin up or down the seat a foot or so to keep a good position.
And I'm sure you already know but keeping a nice pencil shaped point on the tungsten makes a huge difference in how clean a bead you can lay. If you contaminate it even a tiny bit you aught to just stop and go grind it clean.
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Old 05-31-2017, 08:56 PM   #9
no694terry
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Finished. Good enough for Foz

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Old 06-01-2017, 08:25 AM   #10
Illicit1
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Looks good mate. I need to do mine soon for my new gtx.
How did you go keeping the flanges flat? Did you machine them after?
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Old 06-01-2017, 08:47 AM   #11
no694terry
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Illicit1 View Post
Looks good mate. I need to do mine soon for my new gtx.
How did you go keeping the flanges flat? Did you machine them after?
no they warped. I just know from experience at work that they warp towards the weld and will flatten back out once bolted. A few heat cycles will probably relieve the stress too and they will stay flat. I cut the flanges on our 260 amp plasma table. I didnt want to buy them and try to make a round pipe fit a square hole again. I cut the t3 flange with a 1 7/8 x 2 1/8 oval hole and ovaled the 2" pipe a hair so that it stays within the t3 gasket. I fired it up last night and it was leak free even with the gaskets that have been reused a bunch of times.
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Old 06-04-2017, 08:35 AM   #12
Illicit1
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Yeah cool. First uppipe I made the flanges warped but I'm lucky enough to have a cnc machine in my shed to machine them flat. Would be nice to not have to machine them, they're a prick to hold in the mill.
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