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Old 06-12-2017, 12:28 AM   #26
Twisty mountain road
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I've seen people spray quick detailer on their pads before buffing.

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That's called priming the pad. Only needs to be done at the very beginning on the first pass, not needed otherwise. It can help with dusting to spray the panel before compounding (1x for hood, 1x for door, etc). Water works just as well as detail spray.
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Old 06-12-2017, 12:54 AM   #27
terrainasaurus
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Originally Posted by Twisty mountain road View Post
No reason.to.think.mf cutting pad with m105 can't remove 90% of those defects. Looks like you have some RIDS too so don't expect full.correction.

The pic you posted earlier of the orange peel looks like typical own paint...nothing outrageous
So mf + 105 is working, and m100 works too but it may be a little aggressive for most of the panels.

I definitely wasn't prepared for how many pads that need to be used. What is causing the hazing I believe is the mf pad itself. All with the same mf pad I have done half of the hood, driver front fender, driver door, and upper rear driver passenger door. The level of dust left behind each compound is so much that I have to use the palms of my hands to wipe it off.

I think I need to look up the basics for application because it seems to be drying up too quickly, and it isn't hot outside.

Also, quick detailer in my experience is absolutely unnecessary and only gums up the dust left by compounding.
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Old 06-12-2017, 01:33 AM   #28
terrainasaurus
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I should probably get a new phone before I share photos from this phone. Lol.



All scratches came out. The previous owner was a surfer which explains how some of the gnarly scars may have accumulated.
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Old 06-12-2017, 12:25 PM   #29
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You need 6-10 mf pads per car if you are doing heavy cutting. Even blowing out with air after each pass you still need to change often. I have 8-10 5" and around 4 3" of each pad I own.
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Old 06-12-2017, 09:42 PM   #30
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Is it possible that the floodlight I'm using is heating the product up before it breaks down? Leaving it difficult to remove with a mf towel?
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Old 06-12-2017, 09:43 PM   #31
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I'm using 50/50 iso and water after each compounding but it still leaves dust that I can remove with my finger.
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Old 06-12-2017, 10:29 PM   #32
Twisty mountain road
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I'm using 50/50 iso and water after each compounding but it still leaves dust that I can remove with my finger.
M105/205 do dust a lot, but it seems that you are either doing something wrong (like using 2 much product...only need 3 pee sized drops per 2x2 or 4x4 panel... or not cleaning the pad enough with a pad brush or compressed air). When I use either M100/105/205, I too get dusting, but nothing that compressed air or a fresh MF towel cant remove.

some paint can be finicky/soft/sticky, Subaru and Porsche paint is usually categorized to being soft and finicky. When you are correcting or polishing, try to make 2 passes for correction (nice and slow) and 2 passes to jewel (ease up on the pressure and kind of glides the pad across the surface in a quicker manner like when you are spreading the product) and see if that helps reduce dusting

Quote:
Originally Posted by terrainasaurus View Post
Is it possible that the floodlight I'm using is heating the product up before it breaks down? Leaving it difficult to remove with a mf towel?
most flood lights give off a good amount of heat and can flash the product faster then if not using it because it makes the painted surface hotter. Additionally, flood lights can "flood" the area with light making it more difficult to determine what you have or have not corrected. Try ceiling lights or use a garage with lights off and garage door open (daytime) and see if that helps.

I use (2) ceiling LED lights that are 6 ft long and give off approx. 3800 K white light. I use a 3m sungun to spot shine the paint to determine scratches and removal.
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Old 06-12-2017, 11:41 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twisty mountain road View Post
M105/205 do dust a lot, but it seems that you are either doing something wrong (like using 2 much product...only need 3 pee sized drops per 2x2 or 4x4 panel... or not cleaning the pad enough with a pad brush or compressed air). When I use either M100/105/205, I too get dusting, but nothing that compressed air or a fresh MF towel cant remove.

some paint can be finicky/soft/sticky, Subaru and Porsche paint is usually categorized to being soft and finicky. When you are correcting or polishing, try to make 2 passes for correction (nice and slow) and 2 passes to jewel (ease up on the pressure and kind of glides the pad across the surface in a quicker manner like when you are spreading the product) and see if that helps reduce dusting



most flood lights give off a good amount of heat and can flash the product faster then if not using it because it makes the painted surface hotter. Additionally, flood lights can "flood" the area with light making it more difficult to determine what you have or have not corrected. Try ceiling lights or use a garage with lights off and garage door open (daytime) and see if that helps.

I use (2) ceiling LED lights that are 6 ft long and give off approx. 3800 K white light. I use a 3m sungun to spot shine the paint to determine scratches and removal.
Your advice has helped tremendously. I found that priming the pad with more polish and distributing over the pad, followed by moderate pressure spreading for 2 fast passes, then followed by almost no pressure and allowing the polisher to do all of the cutting.

I have a 32oz of m100 and the fact that it's blue makes testing much easier for me, as opposed to the tiny little m105 bottle I accidentally bought. Should have got the 32oz.

The harbor freight DA is HEAVY. And I'm learning to keep very light pressure due to this paint, because using more pressure and going slower seems to cake the product to the pad as well as dry VERY quickly on the paint.

I had the floodlight on high and I'm thinking that added to my poor technique/lack of good priming. I do think the floodlight gives great clarity to what you have going on but I think it should be setup closer or further, higher or lower depending on the type that you have. I too use an overhead light but it's just a double fluorescent rig.

P.S. the section km having a hell of a time with is the lower door PA els on MY08 hatch. How do you guys work on those sections comfortably?? I had to put my mountain bike knee guards on hahaha.

Here's what happens when you don't put a bra and/or fail to take care of your car.
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Old 06-13-2017, 01:37 AM   #34
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When it came to polishing (yellow foam pad + m205), two moderate press passes followed by 2-3 light passes worked well.

The polishing compound + yellow foam pad is much easier to work with than the mf cut pad + m100/105 for me.

I got frustrated with the mf cutting pad, man... is there a trick to using it? I'm hand washing them with CG mf wash, I really don't know why it keeps creating an unwipable layer on the paint.
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Old 06-13-2017, 11:04 AM   #35
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Yesterdays workshop


I see what has been going wrong...

The microfiber pad most be generating too much heat at speed 6. Coupled with too much pressure after it dries up, I believe what was happening is that it tends to bake on from moving so fast. I just haven't been so sure on proper speed setting for this polisher.

Last edited by terrainasaurus; 06-13-2017 at 12:29 PM.
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Old 06-13-2017, 04:14 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by terrainasaurus View Post
Yesterdays workshop


I see what has been going wrong...

The microfiber pad most be generating too much heat at speed 6. Coupled with too much pressure after it dries up, I believe what was happening is that it tends to bake on from moving so fast. I just haven't been so sure on proper speed setting for this polisher.
Microfiber pads do not like heat, try a lower speed or less pressure.

IIRC when I used the GG DA I'd cut at 4.5/5 tops.

Also it's suggested to swap MF pads more frequently when they're getting too hot for better cutting.
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Old 06-13-2017, 08:21 PM   #37
terrainasaurus
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Microfiber pads do not like heat, try a lower speed or less pressure.

IIRC when I used the GG DA I'd cut at 4.5/5 tops.

Also it's suggested to swap MF pads more frequently when they're getting too hot for better cutting.
I've been reading that... Also, that compressed air is the way to go versus nylon brush for cleaning on the fly. But man I only have a brush lol.

I'll post more observations as I go. Heading to the garage now to test less pressure and lower speeds.

I noticed that the engine should be cooled down before compounding/polishing the hood, or else the product dries wayyy too fast. First thing I do now is pop the hood open after getting home from work haha.
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Old 06-19-2017, 03:06 PM   #38
blueoh2wrx
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I applaud you for trying... but you swung for a homerun when all you needed was a single up the middle...

Subaru Paint is junk... Meguiars M105 is really aggressive and on an Orange Foam pad should have been more than enough... you should work it in on relatively small sections.

M105 will dust... but use a pad brush between each pass and blow out with air... switch pads every 2 panels on average. You should have been able to correct this car without wetsanding... once you burn through the clear thats game over.

Ive detailed 50 of these cars...

My recommended strategy:

Wash
Clay
Decon with CarPro IronX
Wash again with strip wash
Dry
Measure CC Depth
Megs 105 on Orange Pad if REALLY bad
CarPro Reflect on a white pad
CarPro Essence on Black Pad


The End.

Good Luck, trial and error will serve you well.
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Old 06-19-2017, 10:01 PM   #39
terrainasaurus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueoh2wrx View Post
I applaud you for trying... but you swung for a homerun when all you needed was a single up the middle...

Subaru Paint is junk... Meguiars M105 is really aggressive and on an Orange Foam pad should have been more than enough... you should work it in on relatively small sections.

M105 will dust... but use a pad brush between each pass and blow out with air... switch pads every 2 panels on average. You should have been able to correct this car without wetsanding... once you burn through the clear thats game over.

Ive detailed 50 of these cars...

My recommended strategy:

Wash
Clay
Decon with CarPro IronX
Wash again with strip wash
Dry
Measure CC Depth
Megs 105 on Orange Pad if REALLY bad
CarPro Reflect on a white pad
CarPro Essence on Black Pad


The End.

Good Luck, trial and error will serve you well.
How is the orange pad compared to a megs cutting pad or burgundy megs?

I had no issue with megs mf cut pads, until the nylon brush I was using to clean it with proved to be insufficient without following up with compressed air (I have no air compressor )

Technique is what I was struggling with most in the beginning. Monday through Saturday I worked on my car every day after work getting used to the HF DA, which is really heavy by the way, especially getting down to the lower panels. My obs has the side moldings so I found that seperating passes in that way were the best route to take. Also I could have started out doing smaller areas.

As the week pressed on I got more frustrated with how much time I had been spending and how tired I would be. Fatigue, blehhhhh.

Speed settings were pretty tricky, and with the HF being as heavy as it is, as well as me baking m105 and m205 into the clearcoat from too much pressure, I had to do more research.

Long story short,

-Need compressed air next time with mf cutting pads
-More pads! I started with 2 yellow megs and 2 megs mf cutting pads. had to order more
-Probably look into CarPro's IronX. Is that stuff really necessary?
-Speed setting 6 on the HF DA with mf cutting pad is NOT the way to go. Unless you enjoy unnecessary elbow grease getting what baked on compound you can off of your paint
-Start on Friday, NOT Monday. Lol.

The only time I ever washed my car was with CG Clean Slate on Mon. twice. Once as first step, then again after clay barring. Also, I'm not sure if it's the shipment I got, but my megs clay bars were absolutely horrible to work with. Imagine claying your car with gum that has been chewed for 2 hours straight... My CG medium clay bars that I used in the past were WAY better. Just Saiyan. Super Saiyan.

All in all I'm pretty stoked with the way it turned out but man, it's already getting some dust speck on it. Obsidian black pearl loves to collect dust, it's like a black hole.

Now the next time I dive into this... I'm gonna whip those CarPro velvet pads out and see if I cannot get rid of that orange peel...
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Old 06-19-2017, 10:08 PM   #40
terrainasaurus
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Also I was wondering if anyone can help me out with this issue...

Wax is supposed to be applied in thin coats, right?

But every coat I tried to lightly glaze onto the clear seemed to skip alot, and I'm wondering if this is because of the orange peel.

Can anyone suggest good tips for applying wax? I have megs black foam finisher and griots black finisher pad, too. Though, this time around I used a rectangular CG applicator, but trying to get into a mother's circular wax container was difficult and didn't recover wax very evenly on the app. I was so tired of using the DA I went straight for the applicator and ended up doing much more work in the end because of how thick the coating of wax was. Had to use both hands with full washboard strength to buff the wax off, lol.
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Old 06-20-2017, 08:11 PM   #41
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Some odd spots I don't think will buff out, m105 definitely didn't cut it *pun discovery!!!*


When I said that I won't compound the front or rear bumpers, it's because the previous owner lived in San Francisco, where parking is tight and drivers are frantic. Here's the rear bumper, each of those white spot marks is a dent. The front isn't as bad, I'll probably attempt some removal.
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