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Old 10-18-2013, 11:18 AM   #101
besthaticouldo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bag Riders Air Ride View Post
Huh... weird.. are you behind a proxy server or something? It's hosted on Instagram's CDN. Regardless, yes that is what I'm talking about. The output on the compressor's head is 1/4" NPT so that will thread right in where the hose would otherwise go, then the hose can thread into the valve.

I've run a trap both pre and post tank. The argument for pre-tank (e.g., between pump and tank) is that the trap will filter out moisture from the air before it reaches the tank and therefore will reduce condensation. This is especially important for steel tanks, since condensation can cause little rust flakes to peel off from inside the tank and wreck havoc on your valves and small openings throughout the system.

Personally, I have my trap after the tank, between the tank and the manifold. Since I have aluminum tanks, I'm not concerned about rust flakes. When installing fittings with teflon tape, little bits of tape could separate inside the tank and when those enter the manifold, they can cause valves to get stuck or actuate poorly. Even with experience and the required tools, disassembling and cleaning a VU4 manifold isn't exactly the most fun thing to do after work or on a weekend. Given that the manifold is a mission-critical component for the rest of the system to operate, I want to limit the possibility of me having to remove it for cleaning, which is why I installed my water trap in a means which protects the manifold the most.

All in all, it is a common topic of debate, that's just my 2c! Hope it helps
Yea I'm on an aluminum tank.

I think I may throw a water trap post tank/pre manifold and get a new check valve.

Also, this is a weird question. My V2 is set to air on ignition, so when it airs, even if the tank isn't at the low threshold for fill the compressor turns on and fills the tank. I have it set to 125low/175high. When I start the car and it airs up it will automatically kick on the compressor. No matter the pressure, as long as its not above 175...is that normal?
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Old 10-18-2013, 11:26 AM   #102
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Originally Posted by besthaticouldo View Post
Also, this is a weird question. My V2 is set to air on ignition, so when it airs, even if the tank isn't at the low threshold for fill the compressor turns on and fills the tank. I have it set to 125low/175high. When I start the car and it airs up it will automatically kick on the compressor. No matter the pressure, as long as its not above 175...is that normal?
Yeah that is normal. The transducer for the tank is inside the manifold and when the valves open to let air to the bags, there is a split second when pressure in the manifold drops and "new" air from the tank is still traveling down the air line, headed to the manifold. Therefore, the transducer sees low pressure and turns on the compressor until it reaches the target pressure. This is especially common with 1/4" air line, or setups where there is a good amount of air line between the tank and manifold.
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Old 10-19-2013, 08:55 AM   #103
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I've got a bit of a clunking problem with my AirLift set-up

What's strange is the noise, it only occurs when one side hits a bump VS both sides at the same thing (leading to believe sway bar, its been checked)

The noise I get sounds like the bag is beimg turned inside out, its got a sucky-thunk sort of sound, rather than the more solid metallic clunk of a standard coil over..

Any thoughts at all?

I know that's not a lot to go on.. I'm hopimg experience wins over here.. hahaha
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Old 10-19-2013, 10:45 AM   #104
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Originally Posted by Aaron'z 2.5RS View Post
I've got a bit of a clunking problem with my AirLift set-up

What's strange is the noise, it only occurs when one side hits a bump VS both sides at the same thing (leading to believe sway bar, its been checked)

The noise I get sounds like the bag is beimg turned inside out, its got a sucky-thunk sort of sound, rather than the more solid metallic clunk of a standard coil over..

Any thoughts at all?

I know that's not a lot to go on.. I'm hopimg experience wins over here.. hahaha
I have the same issue with my air lift struts. Only with my rears as they are the skinny ones. I also have thicker rear sway bar so I don't know if that's the cause or not. I notice it more after the car has been sitting for a little while.

Aaron
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Old 10-19-2013, 02:20 PM   #105
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Had this problem too. I think what's happening is they are bottoming out when going over bumps. The solution for me was to run the rears about 10-25 psi lower than the fronts. I don't know why airlift says to run the rears higher if this problem happens to everyone. I also run my dampers on full stiff for now.
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Old 10-20-2013, 01:33 AM   #106
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Originally Posted by LGTChia View Post

I have the same issue with my air lift struts. Only with my rears as they are the skinny ones. I also have thicker rear sway bar so I don't know if that's the cause or not. I notice it more after the car has been sitting for a little while.

Aaron
I have a large sway as well..

Mine seems to be worse after sitting as well but its hard for me to say.. I dont DD the car..

Again though it "sometimes" happens over straight line bumps but they have to be pretty bad, on single sided or around turms where the bumps are offset is where Its really noticeable
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Old 10-20-2013, 01:34 AM   #107
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Had this problem too. I think what's happening is they are bottoming out when going over bumps. The solution for me was to run the rears about 10-25 psi lower than the fronts. I don't know why airlift says to run the rears higher if this problem happens to everyone. I also run my dampers on full stiff for now.
Can't run the rears lower than the fronts.. just the way my car sets up..

I should play with the dampening control though..
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Old 10-20-2013, 06:23 PM   #108
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Originally Posted by mhs5074 View Post
Had this problem too. I think what's happening is they are bottoming out when going over bumps. The solution for me was to run the rears about 10-25 psi lower than the fronts. I don't know why airlift says to run the rears higher if this problem happens to everyone. I also run my dampers on full stiff for now.
If I did that I would have extreme reverse rake. Right now I run my car at 44 front and 95 rear.

Aaron
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:29 AM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron'z 2.5RS View Post
I've got a bit of a clunking problem with my AirLift set-up

The noise I get sounds like the bag is beimg turned inside out, its got a sucky-thunk sort of sound, rather than the more solid metallic clunk of a standard coil over..

Any thoughts at all?
Seems like you're hearing the damper reach the limit of its travel range. What kind of pressure and damping settings are you operating at? You should try to lower your pressure and see if you still hear the clunk. Remember that you can thread the lower bracket on the strut up/down to really dial in your driving pressure!

Quote:
Originally Posted by LGTChia View Post
If I did that I would have extreme reverse rake. Right now I run my car at 44 front and 95 rear.

Right now I run my car at 44 front and 95 rear.
95 PSI is quite a lot, even for those short little shocks in the rear of your Legacy. If at all possible, can you thread the lower mount further down so that you can maintain the same driving height, but with a lower pressure? Air Lift recommends 50-65 PSI for those rear shocks and 50psi for the fronts. The reason for the higher pressure in the rear is that structurally on the chassis, and via design of the Air Lift shock, higher pressure is required to provide sufficient lift whereas the front strut can achieve ample lift with less pressure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mhs5074 View Post
Had this problem too. I think what's happening is they are bottoming out when going over bumps. The solution for me was to run the rears about 10-25 psi lower than the fronts.

I also run my dampers on full stiff for now.
That is the correct solution, but it isn't recommended to run your dampers on full stiff. At least that is what I've been told by Air Lift to be a potential cause of a "clunk" noise. Fortunately for us GD/GG owners, we have a much longer stroke to play with in the rear (about 5.5") compared to the GR/GV (and Legacy owners!) who have a super short rear shock which only sports around 2.5" of stroke.

Really glad to see that this thread is becoming more active! Thanks for participating everyone, and keep the questions coming! Hopefully I've been able to help some of you We are open M-F 9am-5pm EST and can be reached by phone at 802 735 2574 if you'd prefer to bounce ideas back and forth with one of our guys here. We're all enthusiasts with plenty of hands on experience with Air Suspension and eager to help the community that has helped us over the years

Cheers,
John
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:26 AM   #110
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I have a question about the rears.

Is there a longer lower mount, so we can raise the rear up, even at ~60psi I am tucking wheel. I'd like it to be a bit higher at drive height in the rear...
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Old 10-23-2013, 10:26 AM   #111
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Originally Posted by besthaticouldo View Post
I have a question about the rears.

Is there a longer lower mount, so we can raise the rear up, even at ~60psi I am tucking wheel. I'd like it to be a bit higher at drive height in the rear...
I've heard this from a few GR folks, so we took things into our own hands to develop a solution! Air Lift designed the rear shocks for extreme slammage, seemingly on stock wheels.... but I don't think anyone wants to be tucking a stock wheel at drive height We are working on a potential solution that should be out of production in a couple weeks. Things have been crazy here with our SEMA project, but that shipped out today so we can focus on other projects that were temporarily sidelined, like a longer GR lower mount I will keep you posted with our progress!
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Old 10-23-2013, 10:30 AM   #112
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Well freaking let me know, I'll test em out for ya

Especially with winter, a tad bit of ground clearance would be nice.
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Old 10-23-2013, 02:47 PM   #113
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Originally Posted by Bag Riders Air Ride View Post
I've heard this from a few GR folks, so we took things into our own hands to develop a solution! Air Lift designed the rear shocks for extreme slammage, seemingly on stock wheels.... but I don't think anyone wants to be tucking a stock wheel at drive height We are working on a potential solution that should be out of production in a couple weeks. Things have been crazy here with our SEMA project, but that shipped out today so we can focus on other projects that were temporarily sidelined, like a longer GR lower mount I will keep you posted with our progress!
Will it work on an 05 LGT? Right now at 90psi I'm at the top of my rear tire.

Aaron
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Old 10-23-2013, 02:49 PM   #114
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Do you drive on 90psi?

That can't be enjoyable at all.
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Old 10-23-2013, 04:24 PM   #115
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I drive with the fronts at 44psi and the rears at about 90psi. It's actually not bad at all, the only part I don't like is the noise. They were bad at first but I softened the dampening.

Aaron
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:13 PM   #116
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My system only goes to 80psi and its so stiff its like having 4x4 in place of struts..

I'm set to run about 45/55 on my system at ride height..
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Old 10-24-2013, 08:12 AM   #117
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Will it work on an 05 LGT? Right now at 90psi I'm at the top of my rear tire.

Aaron
Hey Aaron. I thought you were on Universal struts? I can't find you in our customer management software anywhere, but that could definitely be our bad... do you have Performance Series (threaded body) suspension? The lower mounts we provide for our Legacy kits are about three times as long as the GR lower mount, which has been received quite well by our Legacy customers.
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Old 10-24-2013, 08:59 AM   #118
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Originally Posted by Bag Riders Air Ride View Post
Hey Aaron. I thought you were on Universal struts? I can't find you in our customer management software anywhere, but that could definitely be our bad... do you have Performance Series (threaded body) suspension? The lower mounts we provide for our Legacy kits are about three times as long as the GR lower mount, which has been received quite well by our Legacy customers.

Hi, sorry I should have clarified yes I am running the universal struts. When I was doing air ride was no official kit for the Legacy. Originally I had the 5inch struts in the rear but it didn't go low so I got the 4 inch struts.
Unfortunately I sinned and did not purchase from Bag Riders . But your help has been greatly appreciated and when I do switch to e-level I will be calling you.

Regards,
Aaron
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Old 10-24-2013, 09:19 AM   #119
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Originally Posted by BrendanTheGreat408 View Post
I too have some really annoying clunking sounds. I've checked everything and it's all installed correctly so I have no idea what it could be.

Mind you I have the following suspension mods...still the sound, sounds bad, not like stiff bad like breaking something bad:/

Front and rear sways
endlinks
rear subframe positive traction kit
rear diff inserts
lateral links
bump steer kit
ladder brace

i forgot whatelse...lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bag Riders Air Ride View Post
I have to ask, as the mods have really made it a point to keep technical questions out of this thread... I have a thread in the Technical Section for all technical related questions, which you can find here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...7#post40824447

Clunking in the suspension can be caused by a couple different things, assuming the installation was performed correctly:

Too firm of a damping setting. Try turning your damping knobs back a few clicks
High pressure in the air spring, causing the damper to "max out" over bumps. Try hitting the same bump a few times with lower pressure in all air springs.
Low pressure in the air spring, causing the damper to "bottom out" over bumps. Try hitting the same bump a few times with more pressure in all air springs.


Remember, as you add/remove air from the bags, the shocks piston is moving up/down with the upper mount of the strut. The GD/GG struts (front and rear) offer about 5.5" of stroke (travel), same for the GR fronts, whereas the GR rear's only have about 2.5" of travel. For ideal ride comfort, you want to be as close to mid-stroke as possible as your drive height. This can be achieved by using the formula in the installation manual to adjust the position of your lower bracket on the strut.

If you do not have a pressure gauge, it is going to be much more difficult to troubleshoot. To truly fine tune your suspension, you need to see spring pressure, as it directly translates to spring rate. This is especially important for corner balancing!

Again, please either post your tech questions in the technical section thread (link: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...7#post40824447), shoot me a PM, e-mail, or give us a call (802 735 2574). It has been made very clear by the forum moderators that they do not want to see technical questions in this thread, so we all need to do our part in keeping them happy I am more than happy to provide one on one assistance for anyone with questions, and for those looking for a community opinion, the technical thread has really been picking up lately!

Hope that helps you all - please do not hesitate to PM / Call / E-mail with any additional questions!

Cheers,
John

I'm bringing this over to talk about clunking.

I personally only have a sway bar endlink make a popping noise when I raise and lower and only sometime. That's literally the ONLY noise my suspension makes. It's quite incredible actually. The GRs definitely need a shock redesign, our stroke sucks in back.
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Old 10-24-2013, 09:27 AM   #120
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Originally Posted by LGTChia View Post
Hi, sorry I should have clarified yes I am running the universal struts. When I was doing air ride was no official kit for the Legacy. Originally I had the 5inch struts in the rear but it didn't go low so I got the 4 inch struts.
Unfortunately I sinned and did not purchase from Bag Riders . But your help has been greatly appreciated and when I do switch to e-level I will be calling you.

Regards,
Aaron
Haha no problem man I'm glad I've been able to help, I can't leave my fellow Subaru enthusiasts without assistance! Our kit is relatively new, but it does use threaded body struts which allow for a bit more lift and a wider range of damping settings. From your description, it sounds like you're using a Universal AOS rear shock, which is fine (structurally) but you're likely operating out of the ideal stroke range due to its fixed length, which is causing the "thunk" sounds of the shock reaching the limit of its travel.

As you fill the spring with more pressure, the shocks piston is also moving closer to the limit of its vertical travel. If you drive around with the piston at, or close to the limit of its travel (either top or bottom) it is likely that it will max out one way or the other when going over a bump, and therefore you get that horrible sounding "thunk" noise. For this reason, when designing your air suspension, you want to be as close to the middle of the shocks travel at your drive height as possible.

Of course, the less shock travel you have to work with, the more difficult this is to obtain. If you only have 3" of travel, operating at mid-stroke means you will have 1.5" of drop and 1.5" of lift from your drive height. If that isn't viable, then you have to sacrifice travel one way or the other, which is a personal decision you have to make.

This phenomena cannot be blamed on Air Lift, or air suspension at all. Subaru's rear suspension design of the Legacy (and newer Impreza / WRX / STi) makes it next to impossible to get low without sacrificing travel, since the OE shock is already very short. Fortunately, it isn't often that the rear end is what prevents you from getting over a speed bump, so even with a measly 2.5-3.0" of travel (Air Lift shocks), ideal ride comfort and mobility can still be obtained!

I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any other questions!
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Old 10-24-2013, 10:06 AM   #121
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Originally Posted by besthaticouldo View Post
I personally only have a sway bar endlink make a popping noise when I raise and lower and only sometime. That's literally the ONLY noise my suspension makes. It's quite incredible actually. The GRs definitely need a shock redesign, our stroke sucks in back.
I totally agree with you about the shock. I'm flying out to Vegas in a couple of weeks for SEMA along with a couple other of the higher-ups here at Bag Riders. We have a few meetings scheduled with Air Lift, including one with the head engineer where one of the subjects we will cover is kits that need some attention. The GR rear is at the very top of my list. A longer bottom mount would certainly help, but I strongly feel that a bit more stroke is needed to realistically drive around at mid-stroke as the manual recommends.

The sway bar end-link making a noise when raising/lowering is something that I wouldn't associate with air ride components, it is more so with the change in suspension geometry. Do you have stock end links, or aftermarket? I have Kartboy endlinks and a Whiteline 24mm RSB on the stiffest setting. Sometimes I get some creaking but that's about it. I would check out your bushings. Did you loosen everything during the installation, then re-tighten at your drive height to allow suspension components to "re-settle" at the lower height? This can make a very big difference, despite it seeming like a relatively minor procedure!
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Old 10-24-2013, 10:08 AM   #122
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I totally agree with you about the shock. I'm flying out to Vegas in a couple of weeks for SEMA along with a couple other of the higher-ups here at Bag Riders. We have a few meetings scheduled with Air Lift, including one with the head engineer where one of the subjects we will cover is kits that need some attention. The GR rear is at the very top of my list. A longer bottom mount would certainly help, but I strongly feel that a bit more stroke is needed to realistically drive around at mid-stroke as the manual recommends.

The sway bar end-link making a noise when raising/lowering is something that I wouldn't associate with air ride components, it is more so with the change in suspension geometry. Do you have stock end links, or aftermarket? I have Kartboy endlinks and a Whiteline 24mm RSB on the stiffest setting. Sometimes I get some creaking but that's about it. I would check out your bushings. Did you loosen everything during the installation, then re-tighten at your drive height to allow suspension components to "re-settle" at the lower height? This can make a very big difference, despite it seeming like a relatively minor procedure!
Well I'd definitely love to know what they say about the shock and lower mount.

I have whiteline endlinks and a stock bar in front. It was loosened and tightened at drive height. But when the car airs out the geometry changes. Things move, it doesn't bother me at all. Just the only thing I've noticed.
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Old 10-24-2013, 11:07 AM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by besthaticouldo View Post
I'm bringing this over to talk about clunking.

I personally only have a sway bar endlink make a popping noise when I raise and lower and only sometime. That's literally the ONLY noise my suspension makes. It's quite incredible actually. The GRs definitely need a shock redesign, our stroke sucks in back.
My front bags pop every time I lift, it's part of the allure (was expressed as normal from the start)

I should pull my endlinks and back out of the garage, there's like 3-4 bumps in my long driveway that cause the clunking right off the bat...

Mine seems to be the worst on the passenger rear, with complaints coming from the drivers rear once-in-a-while...
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Old 10-24-2013, 01:52 PM   #124
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Originally Posted by Aaron'z 2.5RS View Post
My front bags pop every time I lift, it's part of the allure (was expressed as normal from the start)

I should pull my endlinks and back out of the garage, there's like 3-4 bumps in my long driveway that cause the clunking right off the bat...

Mine seems to be the worst on the passenger rear, with complaints coming from the drivers rear once-in-a-while...
The *pop* noise is the bellow bag expanding, that is normal.

The clunking should be tested, however. Does this happen with all pressure? I would guess you either have too much pressure in the bag, or your dampers may be set too stiff. Air Lift recommends not using the "full stiff" setting, rather backing off a few clicks is good.
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Old 10-24-2013, 02:47 PM   #125
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Originally Posted by Bag Riders Air Ride View Post
Haha no problem man I'm glad I've been able to help, I can't leave my fellow Subaru enthusiasts without assistance! Our kit is relatively new, but it does use threaded body struts which allow for a bit more lift and a wider range of damping settings. From your description, it sounds like you're using a Universal AOS rear shock, which is fine (structurally) but you're likely operating out of the ideal stroke range due to its fixed length, which is causing the "thunk" sounds of the shock reaching the limit of its travel.

As you fill the spring with more pressure, the shocks piston is also moving closer to the limit of its vertical travel. If you drive around with the piston at, or close to the limit of its travel (either top or bottom) it is likely that it will max out one way or the other when going over a bump, and therefore you get that horrible sounding "thunk" noise. For this reason, when designing your air suspension, you want to be as close to the middle of the shocks travel at your drive height as possible.

Of course, the less shock travel you have to work with, the more difficult this is to obtain. If you only have 3" of travel, operating at mid-stroke means you will have 1.5" of drop and 1.5" of lift from your drive height. If that isn't viable, then you have to sacrifice travel one way or the other, which is a personal decision you have to make.

This phenomena cannot be blamed on Air Lift, or air suspension at all. Subaru's rear suspension design of the Legacy (and newer Impreza / WRX / STi) makes it next to impossible to get low without sacrificing travel, since the OE shock is already very short. Fortunately, it isn't often that the rear end is what prevents you from getting over a speed bump, so even with a measly 2.5-3.0" of travel (Air Lift shocks), ideal ride comfort and mobility can still be obtained!

I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any other questions!
Thanks for the explanation .

Aaron
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