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Old 06-18-2018, 07:32 AM   #76
flyboy1100
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Default Flyboy1100's engine out thread

Not much at the top end but when it drops the computer takes over at 1800rpm and gently drops it to idle over a longer period of time than it takes to drop from 5000 to 1800 :/ i plan to message him to see if he can clean that up I understand why it does but its a bit excessive and could probably start that process closer to 1000 or 1200

I attempted to use Gates hoses for everything I replaced except the preheater hose, as normally Gates is my go to, but I ended up just reusing the factory upper and lower radiator hoses. The gates are thicker and the hose clamps just dont fit and they were molded poorly. So when i order brakes i will be ordering Subaru hoses as my factory hoses are getting quite soft

The heater hoses are acceptable but still not molded quite as well as factory, so if anyone is going to replace hoses, i would suggest against Gates


7hours total yesterday but of it weren't for fighting with exhaust, getting engine to line up, and hoses i think i would have been done in about 4.5. Less pics too, had other things that needed to get done yesterday as well

I also added more foam around the condenser to replace/ supplement the rather beat up factory stuff. I assume its there to prevent air leaks and increase cooling efficiency so it should be better than factory now.

Im sure there is more im forgetting and will add later, but for now my car will sit for 12 days then i will do my brakes, fix a crack i found in bumper cover, wash engine a bit better, and tear down old engine
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:18 AM   #77
flyboy1100
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Default Flyboy1100's engine out thread

One of my pulleys has a seemingly random slight chirp as well, will have to watch that. I used to ones from newer motor as it looked like most of mine that I had replaced had started to seep a little grease

I would bet if i need to rering this engine i could probably do it in the same amount of time it took me to do all this work as even learning on the old engine then moving to newer engine i got at least twice as fast. Its the cleaning of the surfaces that takes to freaking long, the dissambly and reassembly are actually pretty quick
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Old 06-19-2018, 12:55 PM   #78
Commander Keen
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Quote:
The heater hoses are acceptable but still not molded quite as well as factory, so if anyone is going to replace hoses, i would suggest against Gates
Same deal with AC Delco radiator hoses. They're thicker and the clamps take a lot of work to get back on.

I had problems with slow leaks at first. The clamps have to be dead-on square to get the thick hoses to seal.
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Old 06-19-2018, 03:30 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by Commander Keen View Post
Same deal with AC Delco radiator hoses. They're thicker and the clamps take a lot of work to get back on.



I had problems with slow leaks at first. The clamps have to be dead-on square to get the thick hoses to seal.


Im ordering Subaru hoses today.... should be at my house waiting for my return along with the brakes im ordering. The throttle body hoses im not going to change again but im not super happy with the heater hoses either so i am getting those too.

Then I think I am done for a while assuming I'm not drinking oil like crazy
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Old 06-23-2018, 07:08 PM   #80
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Currently have a Mitsubishi Mirage as a rental for work, it has more vibration at idle than my car with group N's

Thats all
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Old 06-24-2018, 12:59 AM   #81
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Inline 3s aren't known for great balance.
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Old 06-24-2018, 01:45 AM   #82
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I didn't pop the hood or google it, i just know I don't like it, but I didn't reserve it nor am i am I paying the bill
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Old 06-26-2018, 05:17 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy1100 View Post
Currently have a Mitsubishi Mirage as a rental for work, it has more vibration at idle than my car with group N's

Thats all
Well a boxer 4 is naturally balanced, sooo, that would make sense if it's not bogging or misfiring. Subaru adds a lot of stuff to their cars to increase the "comfort and smoothness" which really do nothing but make the car feel mushy (see steering dampener bushing) and are completely unnecessary.
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Old 06-26-2018, 05:29 PM   #84
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Originally Posted by Dirt Bringer View Post
Well a boxer 4 is naturally balanced, sooo, that would make sense if it's not bogging or misfiring. Subaru adds a lot of stuff to their cars to increase the "comfort and smoothness" which really do nothing but make the car feel mushy (see steering dampener bushing) and are completely unnecessary.


A flat engine has better natural balance yes, but the unbalance comes from cylinders firing and you can't get away from that. Which is why lightweight pulleys or flywheel and not both.
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Old 06-28-2018, 09:29 AM   #85
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Can it be confirmed that the stock BRZ flywheel will fit this car? I've read through your post and just wanted to confirm, the lightweight BRZ flywheel fit without any modification or issue?
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Old 06-28-2018, 11:27 AM   #86
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Originally Posted by Dirt Bringer View Post
Can it be confirmed that the stock BRZ flywheel will fit this car? I've read through your post and just wanted to confirm, the lightweight BRZ flywheel fit without any modification or issue?


I don't see why not, if you are looking at Exedy flywheels, the wrx FF502a is what i used. Its 1lb lighter than the TF02 and cheaper. the Exedy OEM replacement is the same for both wrx and brz

I think the key is to get a flywheel for the 9 1/8" clutch disc. But the wrx FF502a works fantastic with the brz FJK1005 clutch kit

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...134452&jsn=255
+
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...819844&jsn=259

Vs TF02

EXEDY TF02 Chromoly Racing Flywheel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G8RZTMS..._J9pnBbS7MYHPB

Last edited by flyboy1100; 06-28-2018 at 03:55 PM.
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Old 06-28-2018, 11:34 AM   #87
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This is the FF502a installed on my engine, guess I didn't take a pic of clutch disc and pressure plate.


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Old 07-02-2018, 10:59 PM   #88
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Update:

Got my new Subaru radiator hoses and heater hoses installed today.

Splash shield reinstalled

Its ready to drive to work in the morning, probably will flash my 87 tune for now at least until i drain this 5w-20 out probably next weekend (14th) should have 300-400 miles on it at that point
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Old 07-03-2018, 12:37 PM   #89
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After my first real drive some observations

1. There is a decent amount of clutch chatter sub 2k rpm when in 2nd, as in you are slowing to 10mph ish which is too fast to shove it in first to start accelerating again. Once above 2k the chatter stops. I havenít noticed any additional chatter.

2. Oil burning smell after driving, im hoping it is just more oil from my spill burning off, i didnít notice anything wet or oily on the engine yesterday when i was inspecting. When i change the oil i will do a more thorough inspection

3. Shifting is improved, or at least for my style because it isnít so lazy. I cant get throttle happy to respond, so I dont have high hopes for getting a bit more of the hang removed, but with the 11.8lb flywheel it is greatly improved

4. I really missed driving my car...
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Old 07-03-2018, 03:19 PM   #90
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Congrats on getting it back together and on the road!

Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy1100 View Post
After my first real drive some observations

1. There is a decent amount of clutch chatter sub 2k rpm when in 2nd, as in you are slowing to 10mph ish which is too fast to shove it in first to start accelerating again. Once above 2k the chatter stops. I havenít noticed any additional chatter.

2. Oil burning smell after driving, im hoping it is just more oil from my spill burning off, i didnít notice anything wet or oily on the engine yesterday when i was inspecting. When i change the oil i will do a more thorough inspection

3. Shifting is improved, or at least for my style because it isnít so lazy. I cant get throttle happy to respond, so I dont have high hopes for getting a bit more of the hang removed, but with the 11.8lb flywheel it is greatly improved

4. I really missed driving my car...
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Old 07-03-2018, 11:27 PM   #91
flyboy1100
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Note to self, don't lug or bog engine a lot. Need to change my driving habits pulling into my alley i guess.....or after 100 miles my car decided it didn't like the new flywheel, I strongly doubt this

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Old 07-04-2018, 11:14 PM   #92
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I guess that answers the 9lb flywheel question. Dodged a bullet there.

Does your reader show pending codes?
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Old 07-05-2018, 01:29 AM   #93
flyboy1100
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Yes, i have to use obdlink or torque for that though, this was activeobd. Will check it next time I drive it, brakes should be here tomorrow (today now )

I really think the codes were from bogging it way down.....another 100 miles should confirm this

I also dumped the 5w20 already and now have my planned 0w40 in. Decided 100 miles plus 25ish minutes of idle were good enough to rinse everything out

Also tomorrow (today) will be reinspect for leaks, I really hope the oil burning smell is just from the spill/mess i made
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Old 07-09-2018, 05:58 PM   #94
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Only possible leak i see is the drivers side rocker cover, but i think that is just oil from the mess i made. everything else is still dry so hopefully it is just still burning off and not an actual leak, will check it again in a few weeks.

Ordered some carlson quietglide clips for my brakes, so waiting on those to put it back together, i dont like the factory method of greasing the clips because it seems to make the pads stick once enough brake dust gets stuck. The caliper pins were still greased well and they floated correctly to me, but the pads were sticking yet again :/

Thats all, still have only about 80-90miles on it since the newer engine. Hopefully my clips show up soon so i can get the brakes finished and drive it again.....new rotors are on, pins regreased, parking brake cleaned...
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