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Old 08-07-2019, 01:13 PM   #26
pearson222
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Old 08-07-2019, 01:13 PM   #27
Waddlz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pearson222 View Post
Since the hole lines up with the rear exhaust cam lobe - the only thing that I can think of is that something was loose inside the valve cover and eventually got pinched by the cam lobe and forced out the side of the casing. That would at least explain my FBK/FKL anomalies.
interesting.

well keep us up to date when you take it back out. I'm curious what you find
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Old 08-07-2019, 01:15 PM   #28
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wow , that sucks !
been lurking here on this thread since the beginning and wondering

I have a single b25 rh head if you need

pm me
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Old 08-07-2019, 01:17 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pearson222 View Post
Since the hole lines up with the rear exhaust cam lobe - the only thing that I can think of is that something was loose inside the valve cover and eventually got pinched by the cam lobe and forced out the side of the casing. That would at least explain my FBK/FKL anomalies.


that all makes sense

FOD foreign object debris
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Old 08-07-2019, 01:23 PM   #30
pearson222
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I have a single b25 rh head if you need
Appreciated. Pm incoming
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Old 08-07-2019, 01:23 PM   #31
pearson222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waddlz View Post
well keep us up to date when you take it back out. I'm curious what you find
I will get it on stands and pull the valve cover and inspect the cams and buckets for wear/damage. I can see a crack also that will need to be investigated. If the clearances and everything look healthy and the hole is small enough, I am honestly considering throwing some JBWeld in the hole and seeing if it will hold haha. I hate this f'n car.
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Old 08-07-2019, 01:25 PM   #32
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It would be like having a 3rd half moon!
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Old 08-07-2019, 01:30 PM   #33
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Jbweld that sumbitch
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Old 08-07-2019, 01:34 PM   #34
pearson222
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Seriously - if the structural integrity of the casing isn't compromised and their arent huge cracks in addition to the hole, I don't see any downside to giving it a try.
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Old 08-07-2019, 01:38 PM   #35
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I once cracked the CHRA on my EFR6758 when i cross threaded the coolant bolt. it crumbled and fell apart.

I had 3 threads left, so I carefully threaded the M14x1.5 to 6AN fitting in there and high temp JB welded around it.

It held for years until the dude I sold it to blew the turbo up by not giving it enough oil.
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Old 08-07-2019, 01:51 PM   #36
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or just get it welded
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Old 08-09-2019, 10:12 PM   #37
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or just get it welded
Try that aluminum brazing rod.
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Old 08-09-2019, 11:49 PM   #38
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Quote:
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Try that aluminum brazing rod.
my buddy tried that and he said it didnt work for him, so he gave it to me but I havnt had a chance to try it yet.. kinda looks too good to be trure though
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Old 08-14-2019, 12:09 AM   #39
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Did they at least tell you your ptwc, and ring gaps? This sounds like the issue to me
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Old 08-21-2019, 01:22 PM   #40
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Update :

I pulled the valve cover off and found that the nut and washer from one of my ARP 625 head studs had somehow worked itself off. It was the washer that caught the cam lobe and blasted a hole in the casing. The nut was caught in the oil passage between the head/block that leads to the pan. I have absolutely no idea how the nut unthreaded itself. Install was done by the book. I was anal enough about getting the torque values exact that I got ahold of a Snap-On electronic torque wrench for this job alone. Chased all the threads with a tap to ensure all the studs would bottom out, and cleared the holes of debris. Applied ARP assembly lube as directed, and followed ARP's tightening sequence exactly. That stud is #4 of the 6 in the tightening order, meaning I would have had to skip it at 30lbs, 60lbs, and 90lbs.

I am waiting to bring the car in to have the components fit to a new head casing. Unfortunately this still doesn't explain my excessive oil consumption...






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Old 08-22-2019, 03:46 PM   #41
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Well regardless you're gonna have to pull the heads off to replace anyways. just buy a new ring pack for the pistons and re ring them while its down. I can almost guarantee that your original issue. To be honest I to see any way that nut could come loose if you torqued it properly. You must have pulled the threads out the block, or cross threaded the stud.
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Old 08-22-2019, 06:02 PM   #42
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Quote:
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Well regardless you're gonna have to pull the heads off to replace anyways. just buy a new ring pack for the pistons and re ring them while its down. I can almost guarantee that your original issue. To be honest I to see any way that nut could come loose if you torqued it properly. You must have pulled the threads out the block, or cross threaded the stud.
this.
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Old 09-09-2019, 11:52 AM   #43
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***Update***

Pulled the turbo and found that the compressor side is coated in a fine oil mist. Turbine/exhaust side is dry but quite black. Turbo inlet is dry leading me to believe that it is not blowby. The compressor outlet is dry and there is no oil in the intercooler pipes. Looking for feedback on whether this looks like a failing turbo or busted oil seal. Any feedback would be much appreciated.






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Old 09-09-2019, 07:43 PM   #44
stu
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How is the AOS plumbed? If its plumbed back into the intake then it all makes sense with the oil in the compressor inlet. Once it goes into the compressor inducer, it gets hot and turns back into a vapor which is why you don't see it on the compressor exducer or outlet. IMO, Its always best to make it a catch can and just check your oil often.
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Old 09-11-2019, 11:09 AM   #45
pearson222
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How is the AOS plumbed? If its plumbed back into the intake then it all makes sense with the oil in the compressor inlet.
Running an IAG AOS with the vent plumbed back into the inlet. The inlet hose has 0 oil at all and is completely dry all the way to the compressor cover. Oil is only present in the compressor side but the turbine looks pretty dark like it has been burning oil.
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Old 09-11-2019, 11:32 AM   #46
pearson222
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Well regardless you're gonna have to pull the heads off to replace anyways. just buy a new ring pack for the pistons and re ring them while its down.
Rering without a rebore or rehone? Is that a common solution to low mileage blocks with failing or unseated rings?
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Old 09-11-2019, 01:26 PM   #47
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I also pulled the front and rear O2 sensors to compare their coloring. The front is normal white and brown and the rear is pitch black - does that hint at anything?


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