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Old 01-31-2014, 06:51 PM   #901
P3Auto
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It looks like you have an 06 WRX. Pistons are the main issue with 350whp. You could on the cheapest side do a drop in piston setup. The issue is about 50% of drop in piston setups end up being very loud with slap and consume a bit of oil. The crank and rods in that car are good no problem for 350whp. Also do ARP head studs since you would need to replace head bolts anyway. That's as cheap as it gets.

Quote:
Originally Posted by T_woot View Post
Lower side on the budget. Overall goal is 350 whp? Will probably sit on the car as is for awhile. Meaning vf39... will eventually get headers and to tgv deletes.
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Old 01-31-2014, 06:54 PM   #902
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I suppose but there are a lot of "ifs" here. The real question is why bother? You can simply alter the fuel via a flash.

Much more detail required to answer this in any real way.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by nasiocjunkie View Post
P3: Can A/F ratio be manipulated around 11:3ish on a Vortech 4:1 rising rate fuel pressure regulator? (Noob tuner question I know)
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Old 01-31-2014, 08:45 PM   #903
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P3Auto View Post
It looks like you have an 06 WRX. Pistons are the main issue with 350whp. You could on the cheapest side do a drop in piston setup. The issue is about 50% of drop in piston setups end up being very loud with slap and consume a bit of oil. The crank and rods in that car are good no problem for 350whp. Also do ARP head studs since you would need to replace head bolts anyway. That's as cheap as it gets.
So for no slap and no oil consumption I should sleeve the block? What would the next option be, tier 2 pricing per say. And yes. 06.
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Old 01-31-2014, 10:55 PM   #904
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Drop in pistons are not cylinder matched. So they dont always fit perfectly so may be prown to slap and piston to wall clearance (ptw) could be rather loose as well.


Pulling the block and having the cylinders match to each individual piston is the way to go.

Dont buy drop in pistons. Waste
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Old 02-01-2014, 08:52 AM   #905
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Quick question. I am considering purchasing the cobb catted downpipe for my 2012 wrx. I already have AP, SF intake, with a nameless axelback. My question is, how reliable will this be? The car is my daily.
Thoughts. opinions.

Thanks much.
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Old 02-01-2014, 10:59 AM   #906
cosseywrx
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Easy rule of thumb. The more modifications you add, the more power you make the less reliable the car becomes. Now having said that it does not mean your car is gonna blow up with a Dp.

With a Dp you can increase the horse power a good bit.
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Old 02-05-2014, 04:31 PM   #907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P3Auto View Post
I suppose but there are a lot of "ifs" here. The real question is why bother? You can simply alter the fuel via a flash.

Much more detail required to answer this in any real way.

P3 Import Autowerks 907.355.6655
Was thinking I could do-away with a piggyback unit is the reason of me asking. TD04 piped into an EJ22e with the vortec fuel regulator is able to keep the air/fuel ratio at 10.5:1 WOT at 5psi with a walbro 225, stock injectors, stock heads, stock intake mani, and stock throttle body. Comp ratio for EJ22e are 9.5:1 which from what i've read is safe for low boost. Can you critique this setup for Alaska weather for me and what potential issues can you see from it? Timing and detonation issues with our cold/warm temps? Thanks.
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Old 02-05-2014, 05:10 PM   #908
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Well its important to understand that fueling is only a part of the overall factors you need to handle. Yes 10.5:1 is a good place to start with especially on our fuel. I think however you still need to be able to retard timing under boost. You mentioned Alaska factors and a big one is the 90 octane fuel we have. Some people with better octane may get away with light boost and no timing pulled. My personal experience with a few of these jobs has been that the car would in fact knock even under low load(low boost) conditions. It will really come down to how your existing setup responds with boost applied. You will need to listen or log for knock to see what happens if you attempt this.

Another thing to consider is that fueling is not necessarily linear. You may find the ECU will do different things with fuel depending on rpm, temp, manifold pressure, load, etc.

If this was my personal car that I wanted to mess around with and I wasn't concerned with breaking it I might try it for fun. If this was a customer I would not even attempt this kind of build without a standalone, piggy back, or the ability to adapt the stock ECU maps. Subarus are just far to fragile to take chances with.

Bottom line is that if you have the ability to adjust with a piggyback in conjunction with your fuel pressure rise then that setup right that will be the better option.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by nasiocjunkie View Post
Was thinking I could do-away with a piggyback unit is the reason of me asking. TD04 piped into an EJ22e with the vortec fuel regulator is able to keep the air/fuel ratio at 10.5:1 WOT at 5psi with a walbro 225, stock injectors, stock heads, stock intake mani, and stock throttle body. Comp ratio for EJ22e are 9.5:1 which from what i've read is safe for low boost. Can you critique this setup for Alaska weather for me and what potential issues can you see from it? Timing and detonation issues with our cold/warm temps? Thanks.
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Old 02-05-2014, 11:19 PM   #909
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Two questions please. I have a 2011 wrx stage 2+ sf intake and catted invidia tbe. I live in California.

In your opinion is running the cobb ACN91 stg2 +sf tune safe to run on the car for the life of the car 100,000 +miles? No autox just some WOT spirited driving here and there. You can PM me if you feel more comfortable answering it that way.

Why does the above OTS map have these rough spots in the lower rpms (2300rpm-2600rpm) during normal driving, what is it that causes that and is it harmful. It seems tune related since my friends 13 does it with the exact same setup. I greatly appreciate your time and any info you can provide.
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Old 02-07-2014, 10:58 AM   #910
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You can run that map but I honestly don't recommend it, the OTS maps are just that off the shelf and designed to work all over the country per say. They were more designed to tide you over till you get to a protuner and have the car properly dialed in. Find a good tuner in your area and have the car dialed you'll love it way more then where the car is now
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Old 02-10-2014, 01:13 AM   #911
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Swapping my td04 for a vf39 on Tuesday. Have the walbro 255 in. Planning on stock Injectors. Curious how limiting this may be on my power output. Also bpv... is a crush mod necessary? Tms? Any recommendations and or opinions. As always, thanks!
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Old 02-10-2014, 01:53 PM   #912
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Which injectors do you have now? If they are 550cc then you will be ok to a point. If this is and older 2.0 wrx then you will need injectors

I would not mess with the BPV until you have an issue with it opening. I think you should keep an eye out for an intercooler as well. With a decent tune you can make good power safely with the vf39. This is a very common swap. Try to get the restrictor pill that goes with the vf39 this will help with proper boost control while using your stock boost control solenoid.

Quote:
Originally Posted by T_woot View Post
Swapping my td04 for a vf39 on Tuesday. Have the walbro 255 in. Planning on stock Injectors. Curious how limiting this may be on my power output. Also bpv... is a crush mod necessary? Tms? Any recommendations and or opinions. As always, thanks!
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Old 02-10-2014, 01:57 PM   #913
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The map you are running should be fine. Typically we find the Cobb maps are conservative and well tested.

To comment on the rough spots it would be hard to say without a bit more information. Since these motors don't make a whole ton of power down low anyway I might suggest a down shift...

On a serious note since you own the Cobb equipment I would say it wouldn't hurt to drop Cobb a line and ask them about the tune and the rough spots. They may have some good insight if this seems to be common.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by PearlRex11 View Post
Two questions please. I have a 2011 wrx stage 2+ sf intake and catted invidia tbe. I live in California.

In your opinion is running the cobb ACN91 stg2 +sf tune safe to run on the car for the life of the car 100,000 +miles? No autox just some WOT spirited driving here and there. You can PM me if you feel more comfortable answering it that way.

Why does the above OTS map have these rough spots in the lower rpms (2300rpm-2600rpm) during normal driving, what is it that causes that and is it harmful. It seems tune related since my friends 13 does it with the exact same setup. I greatly appreciate your time and any info you can provide.
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Old 02-10-2014, 03:17 PM   #914
T_woot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P3Auto View Post
Which injectors do you have now? If they are 550cc then you will be ok to a point. If this is and older 2.0 wrx then you will need injectors

I would not mess with the BPV until you have an issue with it opening. I think you should keep an eye out for an intercooler as well. With a decent tune you can make good power safely with the vf39. This is a very common swap. Try to get the restrictor pill that goes with the vf39 this will help with proper boost control while using your stock boost control solenoid.
Car is a 2006 with 550c.... I have a process west tmic along with grimm speed ebcs. Turbo back with cat...
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Old 02-10-2014, 03:49 PM   #915
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Sounds like your good to go. I very much doubt you will have BPV problems. Just remember to log and start your tuning off slowly working your way up in boost.

Quote:
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Car is a 2006 with 550c.... I have a process west tmic along with grimm speed ebcs. Turbo back with cat...
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Old 02-10-2014, 10:02 PM   #916
breezeby
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Question for ya, if tuning a dual exhaust car and have a portable wideband should I have a dual wideband or a normal single in just one exhaust side and which side if so?
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Old 02-11-2014, 10:04 AM   #917
cosseywrx
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^that wideband should be located near the end of the down pipe or the single mid-pipe of the exhaust.
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Old 02-11-2014, 01:07 PM   #918
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Portable. If I hook it up to anyone elses car its to much trouble
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Old 02-11-2014, 04:16 PM   #919
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There is certainly some debate about this. Years of tuning using portable setups has taught me a few things.

The fact of the matter is that you just need your O2 sensor to pickup exhaust gas consistantly while monitoring it. If you look under the car you can see its typically a midpipe that simplly splits into the two mufflers. There may be one side that moves more exhaust then the other but the difference if any "should" be very close, you will find at the loads and exhaust flow that matters there will be plenty of exhaust on both sides to read. It really doesn't matter as long as your getting good readings.

More exhaust flow vs less flow makes no difference to the sensor after a point. If you get erratic readings then try the other side!

You can get a decent baseline by measuring what your sensor reads vs what the front OEM wideband reads ONLY during cruise and idle conditions. In some cases you may find your sensor drops off at low loads or high rpms, if this is the case you usually have to mount it where the rear stock O2 might sit on a temp basis or try adjusting the mount point for your tailpipe sniffer.

Always try to make your O2 sensor point upward or at an upward slant at least (tail in the air) if possible. Moisture from exhaust can damage a sensor very fast.

Seth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by breezeby View Post
Question for ya, if tuning a dual exhaust car and have a portable wideband should I have a dual wideband or a normal single in just one exhaust side and which side if so?
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Old 02-11-2014, 05:38 PM   #920
YouFoundDonon
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Is running just the COBB AEM Stage 2 93 Octane OTS map really bottle necking my car if I don't get it protuned? Can it be detrimental to my car if I don't get it protuned and just use the OTS map with my catted DP? I'm sure the stage 2 will be enough power, but I've heard from others that the OTS map can be risky for a car if it's on there for a long period of time.
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Old 02-11-2014, 07:30 PM   #921
breezeby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P3Auto View Post
There is certainly some debate about this. Years of tuning using portable setups has taught me a few things.

The fact of the matter is that you just need your O2 sensor to pickup exhaust gas consistantly while monitoring it. If you look under the car you can see its typically a midpipe that simplly splits into the two mufflers. There may be one side that moves more exhaust then the other but the difference if any "should" be very close, you will find at the loads and exhaust flow that matters there will be plenty of exhaust on both sides to read. It really doesn't matter as long as your getting good readings.

More exhaust flow vs less flow makes no difference to the sensor after a point. If you get erratic readings then try the other side!

You can get a decent baseline by measuring what your sensor reads vs what the front OEM wideband reads ONLY during cruise and idle conditions. In some cases you may find your sensor drops off at low loads or high rpms, if this is the case you usually have to mount it where the rear stock O2 might sit on a temp basis or try adjusting the mount point for your tailpipe sniffer.

Always try to make your O2 sensor point upward or at an upward slant at least (tail in the air) if possible. Moisture from exhaust can damage a sensor very fast.

Seth
P3 Import Autowerks 907.355.6655
Thank you,
I'm working on getting into tuning and had a few questions. I have more but don't want to use your thread just for that.
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Old 02-11-2014, 09:29 PM   #922
YouFoundDonon
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Can my car be at risk running a stage 2 OTS map? I have all the necessary parts... DP......etc. What I mean by at risk, dcan my car face more mechanical failures with an OTS map as opposed to a custom tune? Significant?
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Old 02-12-2014, 02:50 PM   #923
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Think of it this way..Your car is at risk anytime its operating beyond original spec.

OTS vs custom tune can go both ways in terms of safety. If the parts you have are properly matched to the requirements of the OTS tune then you should be fine. Consider that there are 1000's of cars on the road with COBB OTS maps. Assuming your running a COBB map here btw.

Most of the failures my shop sees are sometimes blamed on tunes but the reality is that many times its due to lack of maintenance and running low or out of oil. Keep an eye on your fluid levels!

Quote:
Originally Posted by YouFoundDonon View Post
Can my car be at risk running a stage 2 OTS map? I have all the necessary parts... DP......etc. What I mean by at risk, dcan my car face more mechanical failures with an OTS map as opposed to a custom tune? Significant?
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Old 02-12-2014, 11:35 PM   #924
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Alright thank you. I'll be running a catted TurboXs DP with a SPT exhaust. Only thing else that is different is my Kartboy SS + Bushings and AEM CAI. Which there is maps for.
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Old 02-12-2014, 11:49 PM   #925
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Question: Bought an 04 Forester XT with Accessport stage 2 OTS map for 91 octane. Cobb downpipe, uppipe, and exhaust. 5500' elevation at home. In Phoenix, 4,000' lower, it consistently boosts 2-3 psi higher. Any idea why it might do that? I'm at 8.5-10.1 psi at 5500' and 10-13 psi with 14 spike at 1500'.
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