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Old 03-12-2012, 09:28 PM   #1
HeroCrank
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Default cobb sf intake plus box dissapointment

i have installed the cobb intake and airbox on my 2011 wrx. i reflashed to stage 1 91 oct plus sf ots map after getting it offline. after researching and reading lots of reviews and articles about this product, i decided to try it out anyway. i am dissapointed with the product performance. the build quality is great, the instructions are terrible, and it looks nice in the engine bay. the car feels a tiny bit slower and just makes lots of noise now. maybe when i was 20 i would have loved the extra noises but now i guess im just not into it anymore. prob will be selling it soon but just going to give it some more time to let the car relearn to get my throttle response back. to all you guys out there on the fence about this intake, i'd say def skip it and get a downpipe instead.
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:39 PM   #2
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1st things i learned when i joined this site and did research was not to change 2 things, the BPV and intake.
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:41 PM   #3
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Too really gain from the intake, you need a custom tune. The ots Cobb map is almost worthless.
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:46 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeroCrank
i have installed the cobb intake and airbox on my 2011 wrx. i reflashed to stage 1 91 oct plus sf ots map after getting it offline. after researching and reading lots of reviews and articles about this product, i decided to try it out anyway. i am dissapointed with the product performance. the build quality is great, the instructions are terrible, and it looks nice in the engine bay. the car feels a tiny bit slower and just makes lots of noise now. maybe when i was 20 i would have loved the extra noises but now i guess im just not into it anymore. prob will be selling it soon but just going to give it some more time to let the car relearn to get my throttle response back. to all you guys out there on the fence about this intake, i'd say def skip it and get a downpipe instead.
WTF does this have to do with FACTORY 2.5L TURBO POWERTRAIN?? we have a review forum. Use it. Don't clutter the technical forums with reviews and your opinion on an aftermarket part in the wrong forums.
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Old 03-12-2012, 10:01 PM   #5
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Well I disagree with you. I've had it on my car for 2+ years and It hasn't made my car slower. Granted I have a custom tune and don't use a cobb access port
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Old 03-13-2012, 01:43 AM   #6
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not sure what your deal is, maybe your car is busted or something because my 09 wrx gained 42.4 awhp and 52.3 awtq with cobb sf intake air box combo and the Stage1+SF 91 octane map.
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Old 03-13-2012, 02:21 AM   #7
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I didnt notice mine was on the car aside from the noise until I switched from the COBB OTS 1+ tune to the TP map... highly recommended.
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Old 03-13-2012, 07:07 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRob74 View Post
1st things i learned when i joined this site and did research was not to change 2 things, the BPV and intake.
Try restating this when you get to higher boost levels...the stock BPV will not be able to hold boost north of 18psi...(you did not research enough)

As for the intake, the Cobb OTS map is crap. You will see some improvement with a TP map, and even more with a pro tune.
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Old 03-17-2012, 12:24 AM   #9
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Any observation on intake air temperature? I have had problems with mine because the bottom of the box is open to warm air from the radiator. I live in AZ so air temp is always a concern.
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Old 03-17-2012, 04:06 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eronenris View Post
not sure what your deal is, maybe your car is busted or something because my 09 wrx gained 42.4 awhp and 52.3 awtq with cobb sf intake air box combo and the Stage1+SF 91 octane map.

No, No your car did not gain 40 awhp with that set up. Pleae show me that dyno sheet
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Old 03-17-2012, 04:07 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpatt006 View Post
Try restating this when you get to higher boost levels...the stock BPV will not be able to hold boost north of 18psi...(you did not research enough)

As for the intake, the Cobb OTS map is crap. You will see some improvement with a TP map, and even more with a pro tune.

I am at 22 psi and I hold boost just fine with the stock bpv...You sir or mam have not done your research
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Old 03-20-2012, 01:34 PM   #12
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"Just a little trick that has been shown to accelerate the factory ECU's ignition timing learning process.
Background: There is something called "Ignition Advance Multiplier". It represents, by some complicated algorithm, the average learned positive knock correction applied to the ignition maps. It's represented in 1/8th degrees increments. 1 being the lowest and 16 being the highest (1/8 to 2 degrees in absolute terms).
The "happier" (knock free) the car is, the higher the number will be. Conversely, the lower it is, the more knock prone it is. This number, after ECU reset ore ECU swap defaults to 8 and usually creeps up to 16 (if well mapped) through normal driving. Depending on driving characteristics, this can happen within a few hours or a few weeks. Well, here's a way to make it happen in about 5 seconds ....
First: With the car fully warmed up, reset the ECU. This can be done by killing power the ECU or by simply pulling off the neg. battery terminal and pressing the brake pedal for a couple of seconds.
Second: Drive to a nice open road without traffic. Don't go on boost until you get there. Put the car into gear (3rd gear works the best) bring the revs up to 2600rpm. Push the go pedal down slightly so boost stays right around 2-4psi. You will need to MAINTAIN 2500rpm and 2-5psi for approx 5 seconds. You can do this by left-foot braking gently as to prevent acceleration. During these few seconds, the advance multiplier (which you can't see so you'll have to trust me) will go from 8, to 12 and then to 16. Works like a charm. And on our reflashed ECU, is worth an immediate 10-20 horsepower
In an attempt to save a lot of dyno time between reflashes (when the advance multiplier resets itself), I do this little trick after every reflash. In a typical dyno session, it's not unusual to reflash the same car up to 5 times. On the dyno, all I need to do is tell the dyno to hold revs to 2600rpm. Then I just lay on the throttle until I see a few psi of boost... Bingo!
Warning: This little trick artificially speeds up the learning process. This is only a good thing if the re-mapped ECU is mapped properly. If there are trouble-spots where knock is present, this trick will make it even more present. So be careful!
Cheers,
shiv."
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=302047

Quote:
Originally Posted by HeroCrank View Post
i have installed the cobb intake and airbox on my 2011 wrx. i reflashed to stage 1 91 oct plus sf ots map after getting it offline. after researching and reading lots of reviews and articles about this product, i decided to try it out anyway. i am dissapointed with the product performance. the build quality is great, the instructions are terrible, and it looks nice in the engine bay. the car feels a tiny bit slower and just makes lots of noise now. maybe when i was 20 i would have loved the extra noises but now i guess im just not into it anymore. prob will be selling it soon but just going to give it some more time to let the car relearn to get my throttle response back. to all you guys out there on the fence about this intake, i'd say def skip it and get a downpipe instead.
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Old 03-20-2012, 01:38 PM   #13
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good luck

Last edited by jege41; 03-20-2012 at 01:39 PM. Reason: posted 2x
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Old 06-06-2012, 11:26 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smiththrs View Post
No, No your car did not gain 40 awhp with that set up. Pleae show me that dyno sheet
he's probably going off of what the cobb website says. but those are not the gains you got. you probably got half of that. dyno sheet will shut me up and prove me wrong...
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Old 06-06-2012, 11:46 PM   #15
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just gonna throw this out there-

granted there is probably no reflashes/extra pro tuning happening...
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Old 07-15-2012, 01:10 PM   #16
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Yea, I don't think intakes make the same horsepower as they did on the old Hondas. Is it worth 300 bucks? Not really... I bought a cobb SF for looks and it looks better in my opinion. Did I notice any gains? Absolutely not.
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Old 07-15-2012, 02:33 PM   #17
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http://www.modified.com/projectcars/...da-intake.html

Theres a before/after dyno of a few parts on an '11 sti including an intake. (not cobb, but still)

I think there's some gains to made from seeing that.
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Old 07-16-2012, 01:41 AM   #18
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"The STI surprised everyone by producing a whopping 42.9-whp and 8.5–ft-lbs tq gain on top of the exhaust (304.4 whp and 2971 ft-lbs tq) with the Takeda air intake. Boost increased by 3 psi, and the air/fuel ratio was on the border of being too lean. Running the car untuned is very risky, as detonation can occur (and did in our case), which could quickly cost you a motor."

Maybe the power came from the intake, but um... the 3 psi is what gained power, which really doesn't have anything to do with the intake.
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Old 07-16-2012, 01:46 PM   #19
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That's a fair point. I didn't catch that skimming through the article. I'd still argue there were gains to be made with a good aftermarket intake vs. stock but I don't have any data to base that on. My dyno's were all post-intake.
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Old 07-19-2012, 11:18 PM   #20
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Herocrank, I noticed the exact thing with my 2011. Pior to cobb sf+box I had the "Stage 1 93 octane" tune and noticed huge improvements. Then once I put on the cobb sf+box and flashed the ecu with "Stage 1 SF 93 octane" map it seemed like it got worse than the factory tune.

Noticed slower spooling, rougher intial take off, -3mpg gas difference, and a random bouncing idle that will almost stall every now and then. Almost seems like the "stg 1 sf 93 octane" tune runs super rich.
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Old 07-20-2012, 02:03 PM   #21
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jege41 View Post
"Just a little trick that has been shown to accelerate the factory ECU's ignition timing learning process.
Background: There is something called "Ignition Advance Multiplier". It represents, by some complicated algorithm, the average learned positive knock correction applied to the ignition maps. It's represented in 1/8th degrees increments. 1 being the lowest and 16 being the highest (1/8 to 2 degrees in absolute terms).
The "happier" (knock free) the car is, the higher the number will be. Conversely, the lower it is, the more knock prone it is. This number, after ECU reset ore ECU swap defaults to 8 and usually creeps up to 16 (if well mapped) through normal driving. Depending on driving characteristics, this can happen within a few hours or a few weeks. Well, here's a way to make it happen in about 5 seconds ....
First: With the car fully warmed up, reset the ECU. This can be done by killing power the ECU or by simply pulling off the neg. battery terminal and pressing the brake pedal for a couple of seconds.
Second: Drive to a nice open road without traffic. Don't go on boost until you get there. Put the car into gear (3rd gear works the best) bring the revs up to 2600rpm. Push the go pedal down slightly so boost stays right around 2-4psi. You will need to MAINTAIN 2500rpm and 2-5psi for approx 5 seconds. You can do this by left-foot braking gently as to prevent acceleration. During these few seconds, the advance multiplier (which you can't see so you'll have to trust me) will go from 8, to 12 and then to 16. Works like a charm. And on our reflashed ECU, is worth an immediate 10-20 horsepower
In an attempt to save a lot of dyno time between reflashes (when the advance multiplier resets itself), I do this little trick after every reflash. In a typical dyno session, it's not unusual to reflash the same car up to 5 times. On the dyno, all I need to do is tell the dyno to hold revs to 2600rpm. Then I just lay on the throttle until I see a few psi of boost... Bingo!
Warning: This little trick artificially speeds up the learning process. This is only a good thing if the re-mapped ECU is mapped properly. If there are trouble-spots where knock is present, this trick will make it even more present. So be careful!
Cheers,
shiv."
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=302047
That was written in 2003, the OP has a 2011. Not even sure that would work on his car or not.

On newer cars, the maximum DAM value is 1.
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:10 PM   #22
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After 261.5 whp & 288.6 ft-lbs tq

With Takeda Intake
Gains Made
+ 42.9 whp
+ 8.5 ft-lbs tq
Before 261.5 whp & 288.6 ft-lbs tq
After 304.4 whp & 2971 ft-lbs tq

Read more: http://www.modified.com/projectcars/...#ixzz21b1dza3T

im getting an intake so i can add 2600+ ft-lbs of torque! my chassis might twist coming off the line
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:13 AM   #23
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i am not getting one for this reason, its adds a whole lot of noise and i have factory turbo so whats the point it just makes it loud. With my exhaust and catted downpipe its actually quiet at cruise on highway i think i will like to keep it that way.
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Old 09-28-2012, 08:37 AM   #24
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I just recently put my cobb sf intake on about three weeks ago and flashed with the accessport to the stage 2 map. I have a perrin turbo back as well on a 2010 wrx sedan. Today i was driving home and the filter on the intake popped of and fell down in the wheel well. I flashed a wastegate code. Has anyone else had problems keeping the filter on? I installed in my self and everything was installed properly.
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Old 09-30-2012, 12:03 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcguiver7 View Post
Herocrank, I noticed the exact thing with my 2011. Pior to cobb sf+box I had the "Stage 1 93 octane" tune and noticed huge improvements. Then once I put on the cobb sf+box and flashed the ecu with "Stage 1 SF 93 octane" map it seemed like it got worse than the factory tune.

Noticed slower spooling, rougher intial take off, -3mpg gas difference, and a random bouncing idle that will almost stall every now and then. Almost seems like the "stg 1 sf 93 octane" tune runs super rich.

yup, this is exactly what I experienced with my 2011. guess the OTS mapping isnt any good on top with the fact that the OEM airbox is the answer anyway.
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