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11-19-2003, 01:54 PM | #1 |
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rear diff guard
what is the OEM subaru Rear Diff guard made from?
im trying to buy one off a fellow nasioc member, but he tells me it weighs 15lbs?!?!!? the shipping might get in the way of completing the transcation thanks. ~SGD
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11-19-2003, 01:57 PM | #2 |
Scooby Guru
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It's made of steel - it's heavy (13-15lbs is probably correct)
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11-19-2003, 02:05 PM | #3 |
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i thought it was aluminium
er.....who makes an aluminium one? primitive? ~SGD |
11-19-2003, 02:17 PM | #4 |
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primitive makes teh pimpin one
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11-19-2003, 02:28 PM | #5 |
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with teh pimpin price tag...
but this one turned out to be almost as expensive as teh primitive anyway. ~SGD |
11-19-2003, 03:28 PM | #6 |
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There was also someone who sold aluminum rear diff guard off eBay. I bought one from them last summer, but haven't seen any more offered in eBay. It was made of 3/16" aluminum alloy. It was light enough that I initially thought the shipping box contained nothing.
You might be able to find a good deal in eBay. |
11-19-2003, 03:56 PM | #7 |
RIP 1/19/64 - 7/23/11
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What's the point of using 3/16" aluminum alloy to "protect" something that's made of steel and is strong enough to be used to jack the car up? If you are going to bother getting a rear diff protector, you may as well go all the way and get a really tough one.
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11-19-2003, 03:56 PM | #8 |
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that souds alot better than 15lbs!
my wallet thinks so too. thanks ~SGD |
11-19-2003, 05:15 PM | #9 | |
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Quote:
I would feel much more comfortable replacing the diff guard than having the diff casing nicked/gouged. The fact that the diff casing is strong enough to withstand the static weight of the car (which the 3/16" guard can also do btw) has little to do, imho, with minimizing its surface damage by placing some kind of deflector/diff guard. It is somewhat similar to installing 3M Scotchcal paint and lens protection sheets on the body panels & lenses; some rock impacts will not dent/crack the body/lenses, but putting 3M on would prevent it from scratching. A larger impact that would dent/crack the body/lenses might only cause a scratch with the 3M on. If I were given the freedom to determine the proper thickness and material of the diff guard, I would probably run impact experiments on the car, under assumed conditions, and see what material at what thickness would protect the diff casing, and yet not be too heavy at the same time. Fwiw, primitive racing sells two varieties, the 1/8" and the lighter duty 3/16". I could be wrong, but I would think that for a rally-oriented company like primitive racing to offer 1/8 and 3/16" aluminum diff guards must mean that they work to some practical extent. So I didn't hesitate buying an inexpensive 3/16" diff guard when I saw one. By the way, S.G.D., in case you're interested, I could see if I can find the e-mail/contact info of the shop that sold me the aluminum diff guard. Iirc, they are located in Oregon. I am not affiliated with them in any way. |
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11-19-2003, 06:39 PM | #10 |
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im with Satrya on this one. why risk actually hitting the diff when you could protect it. but, i think a 15lbs diff guard is a little much.
if you could hook me up with that number/contact that would be awesome. Thanks alot, ~SGD |
11-19-2003, 07:54 PM | #11 | |
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11-20-2003, 10:25 AM | #12 |
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can you still use this al. diff prot. as a jack point? like the factory one
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11-20-2003, 10:59 AM | #13 | ||
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Quote:
Fwiw, the 3/16" aluminum rear diff protector sold by primitive racing is advertised to be usable as a jack point: Quote:
Regarding the weight, although I can't remember how heavy it was, I know for sure it didn't weigh as much as 15-16lbs. It seemed to be more like 2-4lbs. |
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11-20-2003, 11:17 AM | #14 |
GC84Ever
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I use Primitive's diff protector on my rally wagon...
it's plenty strong. i've bashed it on rocks, in n outta ditches - no regrets.... but i wouldnt hesitate to use the OE one either... they are both good quality and will both do the job they were intended to do.... Jamie www.subiegal.com |
11-20-2003, 11:20 AM | #15 |
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Speaking of jack points, what do you guys use in the front end? Dou you think the front crossmember strong enough?
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11-20-2003, 11:24 AM | #16 | |
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yes, the front cross member is strong enough. in fact there is a plate bolted on it that I use.
Quote:
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11-20-2003, 11:39 AM | #17 | |
GC84Ever
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Quote:
Jamie |
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11-20-2003, 04:00 PM | #18 |
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Who'da thunk it? Thanks!
PS - next time I'll proof my post - I really do speak gud American I swear |
11-20-2003, 04:38 PM | #19 |
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i was going to get the OEM one but i wasn't aware of it's 15lbs price tag. thats killer! shipping was 20 from new york to montreal! and thats before taxes.
~SGD |
03-16-2004, 11:58 AM | #20 |
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Can anyone tell me the size & length of the fasteners used for attaching the OEM diff guard (for the WRX)?
Thanks, Steve |
03-16-2004, 03:27 PM | #21 | |
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Quote:
2 of 32mm x 22mm spacers 2 of 16mm x 22mm spacers 2 of hex head M10-1.25 x 60mm bolts 2 of hex head M10-1.25 x 45mm bolts 4 of M10 washers |
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03-16-2004, 03:58 PM | #22 |
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Dude,
you rule. thanks a million. But too bad it's a non DIN-standard pitch of 1.25. The DIN standard pitch for M10 is 1.50 I'll see if McMaster can come up with something.... grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr |
03-16-2004, 05:48 PM | #23 |
Miss You Mom
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Last edited by North Ursalia; 03-06-2012 at 05:26 PM. |
03-16-2004, 07:20 PM | #24 |
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I PAID 65 FOR MY REAR oem dIFF GUARD. IS THAT REALLY ALOT OF MONEY FOR A SAVED dIFF?I THINK NOT.
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03-17-2004, 12:26 AM | #25 | |
Scooby Specialist
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Quote:
I bet if you're willing to modify the diff protector, you can use the original bolts, which are much shorter. One idea would be to use some hole cutters and cut 3" holes on the diff guard, near the location of the 4 original bolts. This probably makes the bolts more accessible. Then, fabricate 4 brackets (near those 4 holes) so that the diff guard can be secured using the original bolts. There's another site I found that lists the M10 1.25mm pitch bolts: http://www.mettec.com/metric.htm They're made of Titanium to boot. Not cheap though. |
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