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Old 11-01-2018, 02:10 PM   #26
chanomatik
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STI be like, "Not my problem!"
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Old 11-01-2018, 03:42 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Sid03SVT View Post
you should have bought one with an EJ instead


I test drove a WRX at the time too - practicality won out and bought the Impreza.

So, since I got a new short block, I wonder if I would still need this repair?

In the end, hopefully all this time and money spent of these engine issues makes Subaru do a little more due diligence when releasing new engines.
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Old 11-01-2018, 04:01 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angelus911 View Post
I test drove a WRX at the time too - practicality won out and bought the Impreza.

So, since I got a new short block, I wonder if I would still need this repair?

In the end, hopefully all this time and money spent of these engine issues makes Subaru do a little more due diligence when releasing new engines.
I was making a joke there, as EJ Subaru's from 2012-2017 are having spun bearing issues

EJ's have also had their share of HG issues, FA20DIT's are having issues with carbon buildup (DI engines in general have this issue).

back to the point - if they only replaced the short block, you're likely still affected, bu hey, refreshed top end & new head gaskets, so that's something.
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Old 11-01-2018, 04:53 PM   #29
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I know FA is different from EJ, but you can probably change the springs without taking off the head. Do you have to take off the front timing cover? That thing is huge.
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Old 11-01-2018, 05:14 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by chanomatik View Post
STI be like, "Not my problem!"
Well I am sure glad I wont have to visit the dealer any time soon outside of basic maintenance that I already paid for.
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Old 11-01-2018, 05:17 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by wobbletop View Post
I know FA is different from EJ, but you can probably change the springs without taking off the head. Do you have to take off the front timing cover? That thing is huge.
I have to wonder what is more cost effective - the Subaru provided procedure will shine some light on it when it comes to fruition.
admittedly, I thought about it with regards to how I'd do it if I needed to, and I'd do the "while I'm in there" method of pulling heads, replacing gaskets and determining if I was doing a valve &/or head job at the same time.
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Old 11-01-2018, 05:22 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wobbletop View Post
I know FA is different from EJ, but you can probably change the springs without taking off the head. Do you have to take off the front timing cover? That thing is huge.
It's only for the BRZ motor from the first MY and part of the 2nd and some Foresters. FA20DIT isn't affected.
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Old 11-01-2018, 05:25 PM   #33
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One of the articles mentioned a 12 hour job to complete. Not sure if accurate but
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Old 11-01-2018, 05:46 PM   #34
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Old 11-02-2018, 06:48 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by Angelus911 View Post
One of the articles mentioned a 12 hour job to complete. Not sure if accurate but
That's probably book time. I'd be surprised if it, in reality, can't be done in 6-8 hours or less even. Like being charged an hour to change diff fluid, when all it takes is driving the car on the lift, tipping the car up on it's end, and draining all the fluid out...

--kC
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Old 11-02-2018, 09:57 AM   #36
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Looks like a big job.
It is. And the potential for hack techs to f it up is massive. Saw this on the HG/Head on my car. I got a new head, whole thing went as smooth as glass. Others, not so much. I'd be making damn sure a Master or Senior tech does the work and not some kid.
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Old 11-02-2018, 11:31 AM   #37
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If I get this work done, maybe this will resolve my oil leak/burning oil smell from the timing chain or cam carriers...

Though, Iím not terribly excited for them to take apart the engine for a second time, and this is way more involved than a short block
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Old 11-02-2018, 12:12 PM   #38
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If I get this work done, maybe this will resolve my oil leak/burning oil smell from the timing chain or cam carriers...

Though, I’m not terribly excited for them to take apart the engine for a second time, and this is way more involved than a short block
2012- 2013/2014 Impreza's 13 BRZ'S 13 XV Crosstrek

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Old 11-02-2018, 01:32 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by wobbletop View Post
I know FA is different from EJ, but you can probably change the springs without taking off the head. Do you have to take off the front timing cover? That thing is huge.
yes, valve springs are under the cam carrier which the front cover bolts in to.....

i swapped a 2013 motor into my 2012, so even though my vin and the vin of the donor engine are probably both in this recall, i bet i am disqualified.

the entire FB engine line has left a very sour taste, because with just under 150k on my engine my rings were worn out, everything else in that engine looked great, which is why i swapped in a newer motor with only 25k on it, but i could have just re ringed my motor i guess just didnt know at the time
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Old 11-03-2018, 01:54 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by flyboy1100 View Post
yes, valve springs are under the cam carrier which the front cover bolts in to.....

i swapped a 2013 motor into my 2012, so even though my vin and the vin of the donor engine are probably both in this recall, i bet i am disqualified.

the entire FB engine line has left a very sour taste, because with just under 150k on my engine my rings were worn out, everything else in that engine looked great, which is why i swapped in a newer motor with only 25k on it, but i could have just re ringed my motor i guess just didnt know at the time
Basically the same deal as an EJ255/EJ257. Front timing cover as to come off, timing belt off, then cam gears (exhaust cam gear bolts are a PITA, btw) have to go.
Only then the front cam carrier can be unbolted...
My FB25 had busted oil control rings from pretty much day one; burned through at least 1 gallon of oil every single year until the Subaru dealer replaced that short block.
I have mixed feelings about the FB20/FB25; because I now know how a good, proper, FB25 should run but I clearly remember our poorly the original factory FB25 was running while it was burning oil.
It's really a night and day difference between the two blocks; it's crazy.
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Old 11-03-2018, 09:14 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by neg_matnik View Post
Basically the same deal as an EJ255/EJ257. Front timing cover as to come off, timing belt off, then cam gears (exhaust cam gear bolts are a PITA, btw) have to go.
Only then the front cam carrier can be unbolted...
My FB25 had busted oil control rings from pretty much day one; burned through at least 1 gallon of oil every single year until the Subaru dealer replaced that short block.
I have mixed feelings about the FB20/FB25; because I now know how a good, proper, FB25 should run but I clearly remember our poorly the original factory FB25 was running while it was burning oil.
It's really a night and day difference between the two blocks; it's crazy.


Cam gears donít come off, the cams sit in a carrier as an assembly and the assembly comes off after removing timing chains. I tore down 2 of these engines so I know. I needed to swap a few parts from my 5mt engine to my replacement cvt engine. I have an entire thread about it. Only gaskets on this engine are head gaskets and valve covers, everything else is anaerobic rtv including the gigantic front cover.

From day 1 my fb20 was perfect, at 135k it went from 1qt/12k miles to 1qt/7k, then 5,4,3,2,1.5k.......then i swapped motors. New engine is looking like 1qt/5-6k which is no where near as good as my old but acceptable for now.
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Old 11-04-2018, 09:30 AM   #42
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I see the forester was added to this list. I wonder if the outback will be added as well. I'm particularly curious about this because my wifes 2012 outback just died yesterday 100 miles from home, on our way to a wedding. After an expensive tow ride home, the timing is verified to be in sync, but we have ZERO compression on cylinder 4. Car has been babied, and died under relatively mild acceleration away from a toll. Only has 91K on the clock. I'm about to do a leakdown test today to find out if its top end or bottom end, but judging by the exhaust, I'm guessing an exhaust valve.

Anyway, I cant find what motor is being recalled in the forester, but I assume its the 2.5L, and probably the same long block as the outback, no?
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Old 11-04-2018, 08:03 PM   #43
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AFAIK itís only cars made at the Japan plant. Outback is made in Indiana right?
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Old 11-04-2018, 08:07 PM   #44
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AFAIK itís only cars made at the Japan plant. Outback is made in Indiana right?
I didn't realize it was limited to Japan made motors. Yes the outback is made in Indiana. Anyway, I did pull the head off today and the springs were fine. Burned up an exhaust valve. Seems pretty common, but a shame on a car that still has the stock battery.
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Old 11-05-2018, 12:57 AM   #45
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I didn't realize it was limited to Japan made motors. Yes the outback is made in Indiana. Anyway, I did pull the head off today and the springs were fine. Burned up an exhaust valve. Seems pretty common, but a shame on a car that still has the stock battery.
How do you have the stock battery still?! I replaced my 2011 WRX battery after 9 months and my BRZ battery after 1.5 months! Tell me your secret! TELL ME!
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Old 11-05-2018, 09:44 AM   #46
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How do you have the stock battery still?! I replaced my 2011 WRX battery after 9 months and my BRZ battery after 1.5 months! Tell me your secret! TELL ME!
How are you killing batteries so fast?! Tell me your secret! TELL ME!

Battery is in the wifes car, driven daily, fairly mild climate. The battery in my 2006 WRX lasted 7 or 8 years too if I recall. But I have a LS1 camaro that just sits in the driveway, and I swear that thing will kill a battery in a month if I dont remember to run the car periodically. But seriously, how did you only get a couple months out of your batteries?
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Old 11-05-2018, 12:41 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by flyboy1100 View Post
Cam gears donít come off, the cams sit in a carrier as an assembly and the assembly comes off after removing timing chains. I tore down 2 of these engines so I know. I needed to swap a few parts from my 5mt engine to my replacement cvt engine. I have an entire thread about it. Only gaskets on this engine are head gaskets and valve covers, everything else is anaerobic rtv including the gigantic front cover.

From day 1 my fb20 was perfect, at 135k it went from 1qt/12k miles to 1qt/7k, then 5,4,3,2,1.5k.......then i swapped motors. New engine is looking like 1qt/5-6k which is no where near as good as my old but acceptable for now.
Good to know; I need to check out your engine teardown thread asap.
I might have to open up my own FB25 at some point, who knows with these things.
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Old 11-05-2018, 01:16 PM   #48
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How are you killing batteries so fast?! Tell me your secret! TELL ME!

Battery is in the wifes car, driven daily, fairly mild climate. The battery in my 2006 WRX lasted 7 or 8 years too if I recall. But I have a LS1 camaro that just sits in the driveway, and I swear that thing will kill a battery in a month if I dont remember to run the car periodically. But seriously, how did you only get a couple months out of your batteries?
It might be because of Alaska, but various friends at the dealership at the time said that often the Japanese imported Subies came with really crappy batteries. *shrug*

My current primary car, 2017 Impreza, is made in America and hasn't had any battery issues. My second car, 2014 Crosstrek, had the battery replaced.
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Old 11-08-2018, 02:35 PM   #49
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Default Fb25 valve spring

Forester fb25 engine are having valve springs break
In some cases valve drops into cylinder and locks up the engine.
One case recently the head cracked

The 2.0 and 2.5 may be recalled. Maybe Iím behind on the fb25 announcement
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Old 11-08-2018, 08:21 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by Fb25 View Post
Forester fb25 engine are having valve springs break
In some cases valve drops into cylinder and locks up the engine.
One case recently the head cracked

The 2.0 and 2.5 may be recalled. Maybe Iím behind on the fb25 announcement
How can you be behind on yourself though?
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