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Old 06-02-2019, 02:56 PM   #476
cerbomark
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maybe someone with extensive mechanical knowledge can add to what I saw today . Going very slow over and single 1-2 inch drop off it makes the thump sound. I noticed it on the drop down of the wheel/suspension and not on the upward motion of the suspension. ?? Any thoughts? I still will not take it to dealer at this point.
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Old 06-03-2019, 02:34 PM   #477
morrisson.m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cerbomark View Post
maybe someone with extensive mechanical knowledge can add to what I saw today . Going very slow over and single 1-2 inch drop off it makes the thump sound. I noticed it on the drop down of the wheel/suspension and not on the upward motion of the suspension. ?? Any thoughts? I still will not take it to dealer at this point.
Yes this is exactly what triggers my clunk. Its when the suspension is 'unloaded'. when I go up a bump I rarely hear it but almost every time when its a step down.
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Old 06-05-2019, 02:35 PM   #478
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cerbomark, morrisson.m, That's my case also; I truly don't understand. My buddy asked his shop (typically tunes Honda's) & he said they've seen a WRX where the "cradle" had to be fully relaxed w/all the bolts loosened & retorqued to beyond spec. Considering many ppl on this forum has replaced struts, strut mounts, steering rack, end links, bar bushings w/out any luck, perhaps it's time to shift our focus to other chassis variable.

I'm dropping my car off (again) at the dealer next Tue. This would be their 4th attempt to fix. If no success, I may take it to an independent shop here on LI that specializes in WRX's.... even pay out of pocket if necessary.

edit-6/12: went out for a drive w/the foreman bc he said he didn't hear anything when he took it for a drive this morning. It took some time to find imperfect roads, but I was able to replicate the noise here & there. It's 73 degrees & it wasn't as pronounced but clearly audible. He said that's normal sound of suspension working. I kept telling him it's abnormal & I didn't hear any of this in their loaner vehicles. I had him hear my phone recording from a few weeks ago when it was 52 degrees & he acknowledged he can hear it there. And we drove a bit further & he was almost struggling to acknowledge it. Said he'll torque everything again. I expect zero fix.

Last edited by livewoutlimit; 06-12-2019 at 10:36 AM.
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Old 06-14-2019, 08:43 AM   #479
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yeah I have about lost all hope. Steering rack getting replaced this upcoming Tuesday 6/18 I'll report back after that's done. 2 yrs with this car & this issue has thoroughly ruined it for me.

also, @livewoutlimit, I had an independent shop that does lots of subarus look at mine. He said it was play in the steering rack, which leads me to where I am now. Waiting for dealer to replace the rack, which they were quick to agree with. I paid $130 out of pocket for an hour of the shops time to look over my car. Hopefully it will prove fruitful.
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Old 06-14-2019, 05:25 PM   #480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morrisson.m View Post
yeah I have about lost all hope. Steering rack getting replaced this upcoming Tuesday 6/18 I'll report back after that's done. 2 yrs with this car & this issue has thoroughly ruined it for me.

also, @livewoutlimit, I had an independent shop that does lots of subarus look at mine. He said it was play in the steering rack, which leads me to where I am now. Waiting for dealer to replace the rack, which they were quick to agree with. I paid $130 out of pocket for an hour of the shops time to look over my car. Hopefully it will prove fruitful.
I have no doubt in my mind it is the steering rack. It is such a ****ty design, as we know it has excessive lash, which creates the infamous knocking/popping sound that many on this thread had reported hearing. I don't know about you guys, but the excessive lash can also be felt through significant bump steer on uneven roads or bumps. In my experience, just by not touching the steering while driving through a bumpy road, the wheel will jerk like crazy and throw the car off a straight line.
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Old 06-14-2019, 08:33 PM   #481
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I had my EPS replaced. Coincidentally noise on the passenger side of the car has gone down significantly but it's still there. Driver side sounds the same. Adafoo & many others seem to have had it replaced but didn't solve the issue. IF it's in fact coming from EPS, then it's a design flaw. Weird part is why are majority of WRX's don't have the same issue as we do.
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Old 06-18-2019, 09:12 PM   #482
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a dealer looked at mine and said it is normal.
they compared it with another MY16 and also a MY18 which had the same noise.
It's definitely a s**t design as it does not feel good.
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Old 06-18-2019, 09:55 PM   #483
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My EPS was replaced today. Clunk is gone for now, but it was warm today and it's only day 1. I fully expect it to come back. I will update!

Edit: 6/19 morning drive to work it's back. likely get rid of wrx I'm done.

Last edited by morrisson.m; 06-19-2019 at 09:34 AM.
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Old 06-19-2019, 03:23 PM   #484
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Checking in again. While I was replacing the lower ball joint, I knicked the outer CV boot. Noticed it the next day because there was grease everywhere.

Rather than regrease the outer joint with the axle in the car (just as much work as replacing it), I replaced with oem. Good opportunity to rule out CV axles!

Clunk sounds exactly the same. Don't be like me. Let me be your Guinea pig. Now I have a regreased spare axle. Silver lining.

I might lean towards others that believe it's the EPS' fault (even though I already replaced it). My car follows the contour of the road and the front end handles like garbage. This car has been aligned so many times. The last thing I'll try is load the car on all four wheels and retorque everything.

This was eventually going to become my racecar. Not so sure anymore. But I don't know who's going to test drive my clunky car and decide to buy it.
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Old 06-19-2019, 05:12 PM   #485
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I m not wondering if it s just something acoustical because some if not most of us do not have any issue other than the noise. Mine tracks straight and I get no pulse/vibration in the steering wheel. Still won t bring mine to dealer, 2018 6K miles.
Seems everything has been replaced collectively and still not corrected.
I could almost live with it because it s so minor and not all the time but my fear is it will get worse. Still watching this thread, to be continued.
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Old 06-20-2019, 12:04 PM   #486
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cerbomark View Post
I m not wondering if it s just something acoustical because some if not most of us do not have any issue other than the noise. Mine tracks straight and I get no pulse/vibration in the steering wheel. Still won t bring mine to dealer, 2018 6K miles.
Seems everything has been replaced collectively and still not corrected.
I could almost live with it because it s so minor and not all the time but my fear is it will get worse. Still watching this thread, to be continued.
I'm not sure about that because it seems most of us has noise occurrence when it's colder out and when travelling at lower speeds. When it's bad, I can feel it thru the chassis of the car. But once I get on the highway, car feels & sounds solid.

I came up w/an idea to use a heat gun in an attempt to pinpoint to a component. It's still cool enough in the mornings here on Long Island so I'll give it a go when I get a chance. If I heat up the "right" component the noise will go away - this is the thinking. I ruled out brake components bc it makes the noise when I'm applying the brakes & after a long drive when they should be hot.
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Old 06-21-2019, 03:04 PM   #487
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Anyone ever seen this video & its comments? Considering the theory the clunk is related or caused by our EPS, this is new to me. This guy from Chile talks about pressure pad in the EPS rack right where the TSB'd pressure spring goes into.
Edit: Ok this "pressure pad" (34132-SC010) is not where the TSB spring is. It's where the steering column input is on the rack. You can see this guy take a part an EPS & at some point he does reach this pressure pad. It literally puts pressure on the rack.

Last edited by livewoutlimit; 06-21-2019 at 04:14 PM.
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Old 07-05-2019, 06:08 PM   #488
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I just want to add that this issue is also widely known Subaru Outbacks as they both use the same steering rack I believe...

I am only hoping they come out with a fix with the new 2020 models, which I recall someone had posted in this thread earlier, based on their Subaru insider sources.
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Old 07-12-2019, 08:40 AM   #489
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took the car to the dealer.
they added grease to the steering rack (they said it comes too dry) and adjusted the preload nut.
damn, feels like a new car, steering is very firm, no noise at all, at the moment i just entered the car and moved the steering wheel, felt like a different car, no more knocking noises when moving back and forth the wheel.
definitely a worth trying option.
i forgot to ask what type of grease they used.
lets see how long this solution last.
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Old 07-12-2019, 08:12 PM   #490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gonzagnr View Post
took the car to the dealer.
they added grease to the steering rack (they said it comes too dry) and adjusted the preload nut.
damn, feels like a new car, steering is very firm, no noise at all, at the moment i just entered the car and moved the steering wheel, felt like a different car, no more knocking noises when moving back and forth the wheel.
definitely a worth trying option.
i forgot to ask what type of grease they used.
lets see how long this solution last.
Please, ask them what kind of grease they used. Even if it's temporary fix, if it lasts a few months and it's not too complicated to do, I wouldn't mind greasing it 2-3 times a year to get rid of that clunk.
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Old 07-13-2019, 01:20 AM   #491
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I remember on the 02 wrx one of the 1st mods my mechanic friend did was steering rack bushings or washers? don't know if this helps but it seemed common on the old ones. good luck.
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Old 07-13-2019, 10:27 AM   #492
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Please, ask them what kind of grease they used. Even if it's temporary fix, if it lasts a few months and it's not too complicated to do, I wouldn't mind greasing it 2-3 times a year to get rid of that clunk.
general purpose grease.
the grease is important, and a must, but the key part is to adjust the preload nut a little bit, i would say 1/10 of a full rotation.
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Old 07-13-2019, 04:29 PM   #493
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general purpose grease.
the grease is important, and a must, but the key part is to adjust the preload nut a little bit, i would say 1/10 of a full rotation.
Is that preload nut the same as the nut that holds the tension spring? The one from TSB (04-17-17R)? Btw in this outback forum the people report it fixed their clunk and they describe it the same way we do. It didn't fix mine.
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Old 07-13-2019, 05:52 PM   #494
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Is that preload nut the same as the nut that holds the tension spring? The one from TSB (04-17-17R)? Btw in this outback forum the people report it fixed their clunk and they describe it the same way we do. It didn't fix mine.
yes thats the nut.
it does not matter if you have the new spring or not, just add grease inside that area of the rack (where that kind of "piston" holds the rack in order to reduce friction and add some dampening effect, and then adjust the nut a little bit over the standard value and that should do the trick.
i had the rack replaced 3 times, the column once, and always after a few milles knock returned, now they did that with this rack, and the car feels even better than when the rack was new, it is simply a blast to drive, the feeling on the steering wheel is amazing.

Last edited by gonzagnr; 07-13-2019 at 07:15 PM.
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Old 07-14-2019, 01:05 PM   #495
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Svillen View Post
Is that preload nut the same as the nut that holds the tension spring? The one from TSB (04-17-17R)? Btw in this outback forum the people report it fixed their clunk and they describe it the same way we do. It didn't fix mine.
Svillen, did you check out the video I posted just a few posts up where the guy takes apart the rack? Take a look around 6:35 mark.

There two components where I think a torque or preload can come in to effect. The TSB spring/nut and the spring/nut that puts pressure on the "pressure pad".

I'm in the midst of moving so I can't wait to get under and see what I can retorque. BTW, mine makes noise now in 80+ degrees, but still just at low speeds.
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Old 07-14-2019, 10:15 PM   #496
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That happened to my girls car and it ended up being blown bushings on the front lower control arms along with a bad rack and pinion.
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Old 07-18-2019, 03:29 PM   #497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gonzagnr View Post
yes thats the nut.
it does not matter if you have the new spring or not, just add grease inside that area of the rack (where that kind of "piston" holds the rack in order to reduce friction and add some dampening effect, and then adjust the nut a little bit over the standard value and that should do the trick.
.
I'm unsure of where the grease needs to be applied. The hole (where the TSB spring is located) is tiny.


Or were you referring to the pressure pad? Or "piston" It looks like this:


Part # 34902 in this particular diagram for 2016:
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Old 07-18-2019, 08:29 PM   #498
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Quote:
Originally Posted by livewoutlimit View Post
I'm unsure of where the grease needs to be applied. The hole (where the TSB spring is located) is tiny.


Or were you referring to the pressure pad? Or "piston" It looks like this:


Part # 34902 in this particular diagram for 2016:
yes my bad.
i was referring to the nut that holds that pressure pad, which under the nut there is also a spring.
the procedure they performed was, removed the nut, the pad, etc.
applied grease inside, then applied grease to the pad, reassembly everything and then adjust the nut.
the grease was applied in order to create a dampening effect, and also to help the pad to cope up with the "extra" pressure in a better way.
i think a grease like this is more than suitable
http://knowhow.napaonline.com/wp-con...26_165013a.jpg
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Old 07-18-2019, 09:25 PM   #499
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Originally Posted by gonzagnr View Post
yes my bad.
i was referring to the nut that holds that pressure pad, which under the nut there is also a spring.
the procedure they performed was, removed the nut, the pad, etc.
applied grease inside, then applied grease to the pad, reassembly everything and then adjust the nut.
the grease was applied in order to create a dampening effect, and also to help the pad to cope up with the "extra" pressure in a better way.
i think a grease like this is more than suitable
http://knowhow.napaonline.com/wp-con...26_165013a.jpg
Thanks for the clarification. I would think thicker synthetic grease that will stick on to components will work. I think I used that Valvoline one a while ago & should work.
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Old 07-19-2019, 11:49 PM   #500
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go ahead and do this procedure.
car feels like a different car, let's see how long this is gonna last, i had 3 racks and 1 intermediate shaft replaced in 10k miles.
if this rack is knock free more than 3k miles, it would be a good augury haha
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