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Old 03-19-2015, 11:35 AM   #76
gregroot198521
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Originally Posted by Rogue_P View Post
Just to be 100% clear; The only modifications required to bolt the rack to the subframe is to add the custom spacer and to clearance the hole for the rack 'head'?



The reason I'm asking like this is because I'm going to be ordering a TSSFab front subframe and I'm going to have him build it to fit the '15 steering rack. I could modify the TSS subframe afterwards, but if I let him do it, then maybe he can offer it to the rest of the community as a bolt-in solution.





I'm not asking about the tie rod ends. I know those have to be modified.

Just an FYI, I was talking to him about the same thing, but it seems he isn't taking orders right now as he's upgrading shops. Or something of the sort, look at the TSSFab bookyface page.

That said, I like your style. Upgrade with an upgrade, upgrades all around, the beauty of modification.
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Old 03-25-2015, 01:45 AM   #77
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Originally Posted by gregroot198521 View Post
Just an FYI, I was talking to him about the same thing, but it seems he isn't taking orders right now as he's upgrading shops. Or something of the sort, look at the TSSFab bookyface page.

That said, I like your style. Upgrade with an upgrade, upgrades all around, the beauty of modification.
Ya I'm on brake bitches! Cheers though. Mulling over this I have 6 sets of
mounts that are fitted for the newer cars and the offset is one part but they
are 1mm wider for no reason I see. Also another note do not run a bushing
rack with out a brace on the head of the bolts you will bend the bolts some
day you can prevent this by making a solid aluminum bushings it will put the
bolt on direct shear with the mount. Thinking in the new stuff solid mount
bushing run 12mm bolts let the DD guys cry over that too much steering
feedback
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Old 03-31-2015, 01:00 PM   #78
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Am in the middle of this now, with an 05 STI crossmember the reinforcement inboard of the LH LCA mount with the 2 studs that bolts to the lower brace has hard interference with the hard lines out of the rack. The low pressure side has mild interefernce but that is easy to deal with. The high pressure side isn't close, the rack won't go in without taking the HP hard line out of the rack. I like the looks of this brace since the lower brace pickup points are a weldment integrated into the LCA mount, so I would like to keep this style of crossmember. Working on a solution, will try to post pics when I do.
I surrendered. Already had an 02 WRX subframe in the car and just put the rack into it as per the other installations. Got frustrated with my potential solutions because my workspace is temporary and my machine tools are in storage, so something as simple as reducing the hex size for a fitting needed to go to an outside shop, who messed up the first one because they put the fitting right into the vice without putting a nut over the threads to protect them from deforming.

My intent was to use AN adaptors at the body Ė 37 deg JIC to AN - to high pressure soft line on the pressure side and conventional AN on the return side. What killed this is that it needs a 150deg fitting on the high pressure side to clear the reinforcement, Parker lists one, p/n: 14V43-6-4, but they donít actually stock it, high cost + many weeks lead time. Even then it would have been iffy. With the off the shelf 90 deg fitting it's just too tight, and doesn't allow room for the return line to pass through also.

Could do AN hard lines from those adaptors, but would need to be a very tight bend, might not have room for the flaring tool since the lines need to start bending immediately after the fitting. Also, the center to center of the 2 threaded ports in the body are very tight, a -6 and -8 standard hex size would need to be clocked just so in order to work.

So the best solution would probably be to re-use the threaded ends of the OEM hard lines and make new lines to a new routing, but the tubing/fittings are metric, not fractional, so would need someone that is tooled for metric double flares.

Both OEM hard lines in:


Here can see how they interfere with the LCA reinforcement:


Views showing HP line removed, interference with low pressure line. With HP line it's not possible to get the rack in, the reinforcement would need to be cut out almost completely. Note this is alo without the necessary spacer which would rotate the lines further into the reinforcement:



JIC to AN adaptor, clearance is deceptive, with the 90 deg outlet elbow there is almost no room left:




OEM hard lines, would be best to just fixture new hard lines and have them made, bends need to be tighter and re-oriented:
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Old 03-31-2015, 01:26 PM   #79
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Why this recommendation?
I guess I missed this.

I had had some faint whining coming from the power steering system. I was guessing that the line was too small...but that was not the problem

BUT, come to find out the o-ring between the rack hardline and was pinched and probably leaking a slight amount. The o-ring broke in the middle of my fourth run at an autocross test and tune a couple weeks ago and emptied the contents of the reservoir along half of the course and all over the bottom of my car (I was very lucky it didn't start a fire). I replaced the o-ring and took it out to our first local autocross sunday, and it performed great. So make sure not to overtighten those o-ring unions.

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Old 03-31-2015, 01:47 PM   #80
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Oh ok thanks. So I'll keep the AN6 idea
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Old 05-21-2015, 02:09 PM   #81
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As another option, we made adapters to be able to use the stock tie rods and have them work with the 15 STi rack




RS tie rod (left) STi tie rod (rigth)

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Old 05-21-2015, 03:30 PM   #82
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Default Install: 2015 STi 13:1 steering rack into a GD

So, here's my plan for how I'm going to do this: Going to go with custom made hydraulic lines for this job and possibly a custom relocation of the reservoir along with a cooler in line. Thinking of putting the reservoir in the spot where the battery was just to make it more easily accessible (battery is relocated already). Basically it would be in direction of flow Pump->Rack->Reservoir->Cooler->Pump. 3/8" hydraulic lines all around with 3/8" JIC37 (equivalent to -6AN, more or less) fittings coupled with the proper size on almost all the connections. Two fittings would be 5/8" though, the inlet on the pump and likely one of the fittings (outlet I believe in most of the reservoirs I've found) on the reservoir. What say yall?

Oh, and the ITR issue for me was resolved with some customization from my pops and his lathe. Threaded down farther and ready to be cut down as much as needed.

Last edited by gregroot198521; 05-21-2015 at 03:39 PM.
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Old 05-22-2015, 01:20 PM   #83
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did you have to remove ITRs or you just did it as an entire assembly?
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Old 05-22-2015, 01:37 PM   #84
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you would have to remove the tie rod to put it into a lathe..otherwise it would flail around.
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Old 05-23-2015, 02:58 AM   #85
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did you have to remove ITRs or you just did it as an entire assembly?

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you would have to remove the tie rod to put it into a lathe..otherwise it would flail around.

Like T-37 said, it would have to be removed, but the answer is actually neither; ordered a pair of Moog ITRs and had them shipped straight to my Dad. Still finding it a giant PITA to break free the ITR from the '15 rack though. And yes, I have the right tool, just no leverage.
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Old 05-26-2015, 09:59 AM   #86
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Did they come torqued down?
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Old 05-26-2015, 10:44 AM   #87
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Default Install: 2015 STi 13:1 steering rack into a GD

Most definitely, I wish they hadn't though. Things are in there real good, hopefully I can get one of my local buddies to come over and help.

I was actually expecting only the rack when it shipped too, not the ITRs and OTRs included.
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Old 05-26-2015, 10:45 AM   #88
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would you happen to have a spare subframe? I would bolt it and then try to unmount the stock ITRs.

actually, just thought about it but how about mounting it to some wood for support? just line up the rack, mark the holes and drill the wood. lock the rack to the support with long-enough bolts and nuts and now you have enough leverage to use the tool.
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Old 05-26-2015, 10:47 AM   #89
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That may be my best bet, I'd have to wait till Saturday to see if I could snag one from one of the you-pull yards here though. Or other option is to wait till I do the install and swap them out then. Probably easier.
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Old 05-26-2015, 10:47 AM   #90
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Bolt/screw it to a block of wood, and put the wood in a vise.
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Old 05-26-2015, 10:48 AM   #91
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Wood idea is a really good idea too, probably a good bit cheaper than the spare crossmember too judging how the places here price things.
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Old 05-26-2015, 12:20 PM   #92
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I dont remember if Whiteout pulled the rods out before giving the rack over to our machinist, or if he pulled them after he got it.

Ill ask him and see how he went about removing them when he first got the rack.
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Old 05-26-2015, 03:32 PM   #93
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I brought this up because I'm curious about the lathe; the shop I spoke to made no mention about removing the ITRs before bringing the rack to his shop and we were discussing my idea for a good 10 minutes. Just trying to see how feasible it was if others in this thread also used the lathe to make more threads while keeping the ITRs on the rack.
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Old 05-26-2015, 03:42 PM   #94
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Like T-37 said, it would have to be removed, but the answer is actually neither; ordered a pair of Moog ITRs and had them shipped straight to my Dad. Still finding it a giant PITA to break free the ITR from the '15 rack though. And yes, I have the right tool, just no leverage.
If you have two crescent wrenches, then getting one side removed should be fairly easy. You put a wrench on each ITR, then apply lefty-loosey pressure to both. One will loosen. For the other one, you can try putting one foot on the rack (where it won't hurt anything) and whacking the wrench with a hammer. That's how I removed mine when I got my Q-Rack.

Jacob
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Old 05-26-2015, 04:05 PM   #95
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If you have two crescent wrenches, then getting one side removed should be fairly easy. You put a wrench on each ITR, then apply lefty-loosey pressure to both. One will loosen. For the other one, you can try putting one foot on the rack (where it won't hurt anything) and whacking the wrench with a hammer. That's how I removed mine when I got my Q-Rack.



Jacob

I may try that method with the board method, but I do have the actual proper tool to remove the ITRs; the "crow feet" with the long tube and a spot for a 1/2" driver. I probably really just need a second person to make it easiest though it'll be a minute till I do the install anyways, gotta figure out what line route I'm doing and then hurry up and order the lines and reservoir. Hopefully I can do the job while on leave at the end of the month, maybe even get my buddy to let me rent his lift for the job, figure that'd be fair repayment for letting him drive it afterwards (after the alignment and me giving it a go).
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Old 05-28-2015, 10:38 AM   #96
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Hello, I just swap the 2015 Sti rack to my 2006 GG Sti and have some problems. The steering change from hard to soft constantly, maybe it's because of the power steering pump? What can I do against that? Does the 2015 Sti power steering pump fits the 2006 Sti model? Or is there an aftermarket psp for my 2006 Sti? Thanks.
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Old 05-28-2015, 02:27 PM   #97
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Hello, I just swap the 2015 Sti rack to my 2006 GG Sti and have some problems. The steering change from hard to soft constantly, maybe it's because of the power steering pump? What can I do against that? Does the 2015 Sti power steering pump fits the 2006 Sti model? Or is there an aftermarket psp for my 2006 Sti? Thanks.
Before changing the pump, make sure that your power steering/alternator belt is tight and in good condition. Then make sure that your power steering system doesn't whine or have air in it. If you search, you can find out how to do these things, if you don't know already.

Jacob
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Old 05-28-2015, 03:44 PM   #98
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Hello, I just swap the 2015 Sti rack to my 2006 GG Sti and have some problems. The steering change from hard to soft constantly, maybe it's because of the power steering pump? What can I do against that? Does the 2015 Sti power steering pump fits the 2006 Sti model? Or is there an aftermarket psp for my 2006 Sti? Thanks.
So you hear whine? Then that's an air leak issue. Otherwise, then did you tighten the steering joint before tightening the rack to the chassis? If so, that may cause the binding you are feeling. It happened to me.
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Old 05-30-2015, 01:04 PM   #99
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Slowly getting all the parts together for this swap. I've got the rack, modified ITRs and some OTRs with Zerg fittings. Fresh hydraulic lines to replace the hard-lines, fresh reservoir and a cooler, and the Whiteline bushings for both sections (GD set and a set for the GR). The reservoir will be going in the battery location to remove it from beneath the snorkel and the cooler will be in line between the reservoir and the pump. Should be able to get this job started one of these coming weekends hopefully.
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Old 06-01-2015, 08:18 AM   #100
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Ok I will check all of that, thanks a lot for the advises!
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