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Old 03-15-2010, 10:17 PM   #1
blkwagon
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Default normal operating temp ??

Ok

i have a darton sleeved 2.5l ej257 block. i notice that when i am stopped at a long light or slow traffic i see my temp gauge start to jump. so i plugged in my ap and did the live data to see the coolant temp. The highest its gone is 208 and the fans turn on and cool it down but at 207-208 the needle on the gauge is 3/4 the way up. i am trying to figure out if it my gauge cluster or what the deal is. When i drive on thre freeway or drive it hard the temp gauge never moves. any imput would help

edit. also running a mishimoto radiator with anti freeze mixed with water and water wetter
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Last edited by blkwagon; 03-16-2010 at 01:25 AM.
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Old 03-16-2010, 12:57 AM   #2
801_STi
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thats pretty high..

not like OMGMYCARSGONNABLOW but its up there.

normal is like 180-190 range. depending on whats done to the car etc etc.
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Old 03-16-2010, 01:17 AM   #3
blkwagon
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well the fans dont kick on until 205-207 from what ive notice....im not losing any coolant...i tested a 07 sti with a ap and when it idles temps reach 207 the fans kick on and it cools down but the temp needle never moved
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Old 03-16-2010, 01:42 AM   #4
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I installed a Crucial thermostat and it seems to make allow me to idle longer before the temp starts its climb and also cool back down a lot quicker once I start moving

208 stopped isn't abnormal, I'd be more worried if it was 208 while you are moving above 40 mph on a cool day
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Old 03-16-2010, 04:24 AM   #5
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You can set the fans to turn on earlier...

What fans are you running? Stock fans?

If you have aftermarket fans there is a low and high speed on the factory fans.
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Old 03-16-2010, 05:18 AM   #6
jaxscuby
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187~189 considered normal..
just get after market aluminum radiator.
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Old 03-16-2010, 11:31 AM   #7
blkwagon
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I am using stock fans. And also already running an aftermarket radiator. This could be me over paranoid but I wanna get it right before summer hit.
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Old 03-16-2010, 11:36 AM   #8
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Try a crucial 160d thermostat. Also with Romraider you can make the fans kick in earlier. I changed mine to kick the fans in 10f earlier than stock.
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Old 03-16-2010, 11:43 AM   #9
blkwagon
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So can I use rom raider to adjust the fans with out screwing up my tune?
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Old 03-16-2010, 11:50 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkwagon View Post
So can I use rom raider to adjust the fans with out screwing up my tune?
As long as you're not making them kick in at like 140f... I think you are fine to make them kick in 10-20 degrees earlier.

Mine looks like this. I just took 10 degrees off across the board.

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Old 03-16-2010, 12:04 PM   #11
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Cool. I give it a shot. Thanks
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Old 05-13-2010, 12:31 AM   #12
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Hey guys. I just replaced my radiator with an Mishimoto with stock fans. I also replaced my thermostat. My water pump has only 20,000 miles on it. I made sure there is no air in the system also. When I am cruising, I am hitting 210 degrees without giving it boost or anything. I am stumped on what it could be. I have tryed everything I can think of. I got in my UTEC just to make sure my gauge wasn't fooling me and sure enough, I am running 210F while cruising normal. Checked headgaskets and they are fine also. My car is a 2002 WRX making 300whp
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Old 09-15-2020, 10:02 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emsmap View Post
Hey guys. I just replaced my radiator with an Mishimoto with stock fans. I also replaced my thermostat. My water pump has only 20,000 miles on it. I made sure there is no air in the system also. When I am cruising, I am hitting 210 degrees without giving it boost or anything. I am stumped on what it could be. I have tryed everything I can think of. I got in my UTEC just to make sure my gauge wasn't fooling me and sure enough, I am running 210F while cruising normal. Checked headgaskets and they are fine also. My car is a 2002 WRX making 300whp

I am having this exact issue also, I was having heat problems now I am on a closed deck block. I would hit 220 on the regular and if I hit a red light it would hit 230 and I would have to stop to let the car cool as it would barely run. I installed a mishimoto triple row radiator and I have not gotten over 215. Wanting the car to run cooler I installed mishimoto fans, liquid chill coolant, upgraded thermostat that is 5-10 cooler, and killer bee elbow at the thermostat housing and my coolant temps cruise at 198-208 and if I get into it it quickly comes back down to that range. What do I need to get this under 190?
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Old 09-16-2020, 09:35 AM   #14
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Guys, if your car is over heating at a light or light/normal driving, installing a aftermarket rad will not do dick. The issue is not with the rad. List of issues:

1)air bubble in your lines
2)Bad thermostat
3)Bad sensor
4)Low or old coolant
5)Head gasket
6)Wrong rad cap or mixed up with the 2
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Old 09-16-2020, 10:44 AM   #15
Jedi03
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normally operating temp should be between 195 and 220...most vehicles dont turn on fans til 220, this is best temperature for complete combustion and emissions...the lower temp thermostats will jsut allow for more water flow at lower temperatures...the guage showing that high would likely be a bad temp sensor...in a few vehicles i have seen resistance issues and an in line resistor has corrected it...
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Old 09-22-2020, 04:21 PM   #16
mobysti
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkwagon View Post
Ok

i have a darton sleeved 2.5l ej257 block. i notice that when i am stopped at a long light or slow traffic i see my temp gauge start to jump. so i plugged in my ap and did the live data to see the coolant temp. The highest its gone is 208 and the fans turn on and cool it down but at 207-208 the needle on the gauge is 3/4 the way up. i am trying to figure out if it my gauge cluster or what the deal is. When i drive on thre freeway or drive it hard the temp gauge never moves. any imput would help

edit. also running a mishimoto radiator with anti freeze mixed with water and water wetter
Have a built ej with a mishimoto radiator and it sits around 200. Perhaps a bit high but it runs great.
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Old 09-22-2020, 07:29 PM   #17
FuJi K
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Make sure you're using an OEM water pump or something that works. We've had the impeller wheel come off the pulley on a Gates one. We went to OEM waterpumps after that.
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Old 09-25-2020, 12:02 PM   #18
subaru_gc8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkwagon View Post
So can I use rom raider to adjust the fans with out screwing up my tune?
dont hink you can use both the cobb and opensource at the same time
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Old 09-25-2020, 12:07 PM   #19
BeastianSTI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subaru_gc8 View Post
dont hink you can use both the cobb and opensource at the same time
Yeah, that's right; also ... since Cobb made changes to their licensing and deprecated ATR, your tuner would need to make the change.

Closed deck block here. I don't think my tuner has the fans kicking on until 205. I'd say if you see anything over 220+ then it's cause for concern.
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Old 09-28-2020, 08:22 PM   #20
jcwike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackFighter View Post
Guys, if your car is over heating at a light or light/normal driving, installing a aftermarket rad will not do dick. The issue is not with the rad. List of issues:

1)air bubble in your lines
2)Bad thermostat
3)Bad sensor
4)Low or old coolant
5)Head gasket
6)Wrong rad cap or mixed up with the 2


Okay, update... I installed an aftermarket tbw performance skid plate and cut my bumper for air flow through the front end. I think the huge ets was adding more heat to the cores behind it and not getting enough air flow, my temps are now in normal range and the car cools back down to operating temp quickly. I just replaced thermostat, have new coolant, and no air in the system from what I can tell.
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