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Old 04-27-2015, 08:40 AM   #251
KillerBMotorsport
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synapsis View Post
I picked up a-4AN to -3AN locally so I can hook up the oil line. I got everything installed and took it out for some break in time. The car overheated so I had to bring it back early, but the turbo has a nice quiet whistle with normal driving, but my EWG dump pipe is ridiculously loud.

Also, the Killer B downpipe doesn't quite line up with a Cobb muffler (the flanges are clocked off a little bit.)

So here's my impression of the install:
  • The V-band adapter plate contacted the OEM bracket which required grinding.
  • The included Perrin intake just doesn't fit. Not Killer B's fault, but I have to push my intake down to thread the bolts.
  • The turbo hits part of the engine block casting near the bellhousing. This has to be ground down. I ground down a LOT and it still hits. Which means the cold side is rotated up a little. Which means...
  • My intercooler no longer fits. I rigged up a radiator hose from a truck to get the car running.
  • The 10 mm bolt for the v-band adapter that's directly under the center section of the turbo needs to die. It's one of those you can only turn 1/16th at a time deals.
  • The supplied oil feed line was -4AN, but the supplied oil restrictor fitting was -3AN.
  • The downpipe was well made and the welds look excellent.
On this project I picked up a Rallispec shortblock, but I put on the head studs, heads and assembled the whole engine, the Flat 4 fuel rail kit, bent my own stainless fuel hardlines, made my own brackets for the FPR and the E85 analyzer, made my own oil dipstick relocation bracket, made my own stainless braided lines for the power steering, installed a quad core PC into the car for logging, and just a ton of other stuff.... none of that was as frustrating as putting in the Killer B kit.
Every kit that's been made has come out of the same fixture and the machined parts are made via CNC. Your kit is no different.

I just pulled some of the hardware from one of the kits to see if there were any issues with the fittings. Every kit on the shelf has the same parts.

Your turbo brackets were moved, which is why they needed to be ground.

Perrin inlet is a bear, your install sounds normal.

Grinding of the block and/or compressor housing is necessary. Compressor housing may need to be clocked for final fitment; loosening 6 screws and rotating the cover to the desired placement for intercooler connection.

Some bolts are tricky to get to. This is not uncommon with many fasteners on these cars as well. Using a different tool or technique may have yielded better results. I recall that bolt being tricky to get to, but not enough to issue a warning over





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Old 04-27-2015, 09:24 AM   #252
GotMeUnderPressure
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Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post
The intention of this kit was for those already running an EWG and looking to upgrade from the OEM turbo. BUT... there are some nice mini muffler options out there that people have been having good success with as far as noise control. Routing the EWG back into the exhaust stream does negate some of the benefits of the EWG, but I understand the simplicity side for noise management.
I'm considering the Holy Header with a SuperTrapp on the EWG. I can't find the dump tube spec on the Killer B site. What is the dump tube diameter?
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Old 04-27-2015, 09:29 AM   #253
synapsis
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In my kit (as pictured), the oil restrictor was -3AN, not -4AN as your picture. I'm currently running a stainless -4AN to -3AN adapter.

My turbo brackets were loose when I tried to put on the adapter, they still needed grinding.

I took the turbo back off yesterday and clearanced the block. I took off as much material as I could. This let me clock the cold side a little more, but it still hit my intercooler. If I try to clock the cold side to match the OEM turbo (horizontal outlet, away from intercooler), one of the 6 screws (and its casting) would need to be where my engine-transmission bolt would be. The housing is ground down as far as I'd go to keep some strength for the screw threads.

I'm not saying the kit is crap, and I'm not attacking Killer B. I really appreciate the support on the forum since most companies wouldn't even do that. I'm just letting people that like to learn and do things themselves know what kind of issues you'll run into. I've found a 1/2" handheld belt sander and a dremel with cutting and flapper disc bits to be best when installing. The sander gives you a nice finish on the block and naturally makes a curve for the turbo bolt to follow when you clock the cold side.

Now that it's in (with turbo blanket and heat wrap) I can say the boost comes on ridiculously fast and it's a whole new car. I have a 5lb spring in the EWG for break-in, but if I want 5lb boost I can have it whenever I want with this turbo.
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Old 04-27-2015, 09:39 AM   #254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GotMeUnderPressure View Post
I'm considering the Holy Header with a SuperTrapp on the EWG. I can't find the dump tube spec on the Killer B site. What is the dump tube diameter?
I just had this done, the 44mm ewg Grimmspeed uppipe dump tube was a pretty good fit with the supertrapp.
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Old 04-27-2015, 09:43 AM   #255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synapsis View Post
In my kit (as pictured), the oil restrictor was -3AN, not -4AN as your picture. I'm currently running a stainless -4AN to -3AN adapter.

My turbo brackets were loose when I tried to put on the adapter, they still needed grinding.

I took the turbo back off yesterday and clearanced the block. I took off as much material as I could. This let me clock the cold side a little more, but it still hit my intercooler. If I try to clock the cold side to match the OEM turbo (horizontal outlet, away from intercooler), one of the 6 screws (and its casting) would need to be where my engine-transmission bolt would be. The housing is ground down as far as I'd go to keep some strength for the screw threads.

I'm not saying the kit is crap, and I'm not attacking Killer B. I really appreciate the support on the forum since most companies wouldn't even do that. I'm just letting people that like to learn and do things themselves know what kind of issues you'll run into. I've found a 1/2" handheld belt sander and a dremel with cutting and flapper disc bits to be best when installing. The sander gives you a nice finish on the block and naturally makes a curve for the turbo bolt to follow when you clock the cold side.

Now that it's in (with turbo blanket and heat wrap) I can say the boost comes on ridiculously fast and it's a whole new car. I have a 5lb spring in the EWG for break-in, but if I want 5lb boost I can have it whenever I want with this turbo.
Just out of curiosity. Did you loosen the up-pipe to header bolts, and the block to up pipe brackets to give you more free play in the set up.

It can easily be the silliest oversight to anything. I remember installing my first exhaust like 5 years ago and tightening each pipe in sequence and getting to putting on the muffler and getting so mad that I could get it to bolt up to the other section of exhaust. Loosened everything so I could move it around and sure enough it fit like a glove. Then I went back and tweaked everything to fit.
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Old 04-27-2015, 09:46 AM   #256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post
I just pulled some of the hardware from one of the kits to see if there were any issues with the fittings. Every kit on the shelf has the same parts.


Can definitely tell from your pictures and his pictures that he got a different part.

Must have been a simple mistake in the packaging department.
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Old 04-27-2015, 10:24 AM   #257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delphi View Post
Just out of curiosity. Did you loosen the up-pipe to header bolts, and the block to up pipe brackets to give you more free play in the set up.

It can easily be the silliest oversight to anything. I remember installing my first exhaust like 5 years ago and tightening each pipe in sequence and getting to putting on the muffler and getting so mad that I could get it to bolt up to the other section of exhaust. Loosened everything so I could move it around and sure enough it fit like a glove. Then I went back and tweaked everything to fit.
Aha! My up-pipe has a flex coupling, but that doesn't make up for a slight rotation. I bet loosening the header bolts would help, I put that part on while the engine was on the stand. The block to up pipe brackets were loose already since I painted them after I put the engine in.
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Old 04-27-2015, 10:37 AM   #258
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Originally Posted by synapsis View Post
Aha! My up-pipe has a flex coupling, but that doesn't make up for a slight rotation. I bet loosening the header bolts would help, I put that part on while the engine was on the stand. The block to up pipe brackets were loose already since I painted them after I put the engine in.
Yeah flex pipes do help, but on the up pipe they're pretty short. But in the end glad you're able to get it to work! I do think that your input here could help some people down the road that may have potential issues.
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Old 04-27-2015, 04:15 PM   #259
KillerBMotorsport
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GotMeUnderPressure View Post
I'm considering the Holy Header with a SuperTrapp on the EWG. I can't find the dump tube spec on the Killer B site. What is the dump tube diameter?
The dump tube is 1.50" OD

Quote:
Originally Posted by synapsis View Post
In my kit (as pictured), the oil restrictor was -3AN, not -4AN as your picture. I'm currently running a stainless -4AN to -3AN adapter.

My turbo brackets were loose when I tried to put on the adapter, they still needed grinding.

I'm not saying the kit is crap, and I'm not attacking Killer B. I really appreciate the support on the forum since most companies wouldn't even do that. I'm just letting people that like to learn and do things themselves know what kind of issues you'll run into. I've found a 1/2" handheld belt sander and a dremel with cutting and flapper disc bits to be best when installing. The sander gives you a nice finish on the block and naturally makes a curve for the turbo bolt to follow when you clock the cold side.
Here's what the adapter placement should look like (no grinding).



Quote:
Originally Posted by Delphi View Post
Just out of curiosity. Did you loosen the up-pipe to header bolts, and the block to up pipe brackets to give you more free play in the set up.

It can easily be the silliest oversight to anything.
This is a great tip for anyone installing any products. Hand snug to fitment, then tighten.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Breezio View Post
Can definitely tell from your pictures and his pictures that he got a different part.

Must have been a simple mistake in the packaging department.
Always ordered the same restrictor from Garrett. In fact we've never used any other restrictor from Garrett. In all probability, it is possible an incorrect one was sent. Our guys are pretty vigilant about checking things, but no one is perfect.
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Old 04-27-2015, 06:03 PM   #260
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Here's the adapter on my car before grinding. The base of the adapter hits the bracket (which is loose at that point, held in position with the bolts). The stud on the right was replaced with a bolt later for obvious reasons.

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Old 04-27-2015, 08:37 PM   #261
KillerBMotorsport
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By the looks of it the bracket on the fender side should be spun outward quite a bit.
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Old 05-01-2015, 09:24 PM   #262
ShinjiML
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Did a more complete 3rd gear pull today and did a comparison against my previous Stage 2+ 3rd gear dyno plot.

I hit a slight incline towards the end of the pull, which is why the plot decreases a bit at the end. Again, this was a 3rd gear pull, I imagine a 4th gear pull would be stronger.

Current Mods: GTX3067R .82AR and supporting mods

Stage 2+ Mods: AEM CAI, Perrin TBE, Tomei ELH

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Old 05-02-2015, 08:47 PM   #263
rexworx
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Looks fun, are you running the stock ebcs or are you running something likr the grimmspeed?What your wgdc set at to get it spooled?
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Old 05-02-2015, 09:04 PM   #264
ShinjiML
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Looks fun, are you running the stock ebcs or are you running something likr the grimmspeed?What your wgdc set at to get it spooled?
Grimmspeed EBCS

WGDC at 46%

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Old 05-04-2015, 08:34 PM   #265
Joshwrx04
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Killer bee, im really stuck in between this kit and a rotated ets kit.
Ive been really interested in this kit for awhile.
Im going from a dom 1.5, so this option would be cheaper obviously keeping my uppipe and frontmount configuration.

Im looking at the gtx3576

What exactly do you guys modify on the compressor housing?
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Old 05-04-2015, 08:36 PM   #266
brandon03bugeye
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Need help
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Old 05-05-2015, 09:44 AM   #267
KillerBMotorsport
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Originally Posted by Joshwrx04 View Post
Im looking at the gtx3576

What exactly do you guys modify on the compressor housing?
Thanks for the interest in our product!

The inlet is trimmed .55" then we add a lip to retain the hose (although in that location, probably not required). Two of the bosses on the cover are also ground down a bit as well.

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Need help
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Old 05-06-2015, 05:56 PM   #268
Jubathoph
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Does anyone have pictures of where/how much grinding of the engine block is required? And is it still necessary with the killerb v-band uppipe?
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Old 05-07-2015, 09:46 AM   #269
ShinjiML
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Does anyone have pictures of where/how much grinding of the engine block is required? And is it still necessary with the killerb v-band uppipe?
One member here had to grind the block because of the killerB uppipe, my setup didn't require grinding because I used a grimmspeed uppipe. Both of our builds were done by the same shop.
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Old 05-07-2015, 10:27 AM   #270
KillerBMotorsport
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Originally Posted by Jubathoph View Post
Does anyone have pictures of where/how much grinding of the engine block is required? And is it still necessary with the killerb v-band uppipe?
Here is a picture on one of our mock up blocks. It gives you an idea where to grind, but you should not have to remove this much material.

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Old 05-07-2015, 06:51 PM   #271
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Well now I know why my turbo doesn't rotate over properly. I didn't know you had to cut off most of the threaded area for the bolt.

Here's what I ground. The "nick" on the block where the bolt goes through is near where I hit (with a Grimmspeed EWG uppipe.) If I used a shorter bolt and cut that material away, it'd fit without issue.

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Old 05-20-2015, 09:05 PM   #272
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Here's an updated image of what I had to clearance on the block. The cold side of the turbo can now be clocked parallel with the top of the block so the intercooler line fits correctly. You have to cut the bolt to re-use it with the remaining threads.



A note to Killer-B:

If you change your milling program for the oil drain tube to run a pass like this (right side, crap photo)...



...then there's *much* more room to swing a 10mm wrench (a thin one) for tightening that bolt.



In my case, I replaced the two bolts near the trans with studs, so I can thread nuts on top and "hook" the turbo flange into place. Then I don't have to try and blindly get the bolts into the holes underneath the turbo.
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Old 05-20-2015, 10:17 PM   #273
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Update: e85 tune
Place: prime motoring, east Rutherford nj
Temp 63?
Plot shows my stage 2 vs spoolinator 93 vs spoolinator e85
Gtx3067 .82 housing
Image Link

Only description that does it justice is "glorious".
Huge thank yous to Demetri et all @ Prime, JR, Chris @ Killer B, and guys like User and Toiv and Shinji who provided recommendations which contributed to a dreaming responsive, awesome car!

Instaspool, no lag, superbly drivable, and top end. I love it.
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Old 05-21-2015, 10:39 AM   #274
KillerBMotorsport
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^ Hope you don't mind me posting your plot link

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Old 05-21-2015, 05:24 PM   #275
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^ Hope you don't mind me posting your plot link

only 24psi!

Some pics



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