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Old 10-03-2020, 02:39 PM   #26
snake2332
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Fan sealed:


Wadded up some screen and shoved into tube. Also aimed tube off to the side to avoid water and forced air at higher speeds:


Fake vent turned into real vent, crudely:


Four earth magnets from hard drives used to hold the 5" to 4" reducer in place:


All in all, pretty fun homebrew mod and IATs are lower at low speeds. Still waiting for insulation, then I'll do what joejoe69 @ iwsti.com did to his and seal up the air box as much as possible.
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Old 10-06-2020, 01:24 PM   #27
rtv900
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Originally Posted by snake2332 View Post

Not sure how this would reduce any airflow. I'm still going to use the snorkus, I just have it off at the moment while I finish this setup.

When driving at speed, I'm concerned about the air flow forced into the vent hose causing the fan to run too fast and wrecking it, but I don't really care since it was free and I could replace it for under $20 if I feel like. Maybe I'll point the vent hose down or sideways so it doesn't get air forced into it at speed, but rather just pulls the air from near the fog light cover.
1) it will reduce airflow because a cheapo China deluxe computer fan is going to be a restriction when you are actually moving. Part of the energy of that incoming air will be used to "drive" your fan far beyond the speed it can drive itself. I'm not saying it will make a lick of a difference in real performance, but that is what he meant.

2) driving a fan faster than it's designed speed will not harm anything. Dragging down the speed increases current demand, thus frying the motor, but that is for a real electric motor so in that case it wouldn't likely matter anyhow.

C) I still don't see what you think that thing is doing anyhow. If you are sitting still, your engine is idling fully throttled down, so hardly any air is flowing through the intake. . . .hence crappy temps.
So how does blowing into a space that is already full of air but barely intaking any air going to reduce temps?
You are just dead heading into a space, in reality you won't achieve any additional flow at all because think about it, how could you? If the flow increases your idle speed would increase.

the fan is useless
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Old 10-06-2020, 03:59 PM   #28
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Haha, hey Delta makes good fans! They can run in servers for many years without issues.

There was no airflow coming from the fender area before this, per se, so there is no possible way to reduce or restrict airflow below zero - while moving or not, doesn't matter.

Yes, I realize at low speeds the intake isn't sucking in much air, but now it's sucking in cooler air. I don't think you'll convince anyone that that is a bad thing, but hey I know there are always naysayers on NASIOC. I would switch to an AEM CAI but I have a dyno tune on my car and don't want to screw that up.

And I'm not trying to increase flow like grams per second going into the system, I'm simply trying to negate some of the heat-soaked air by forcing in cooler air to the space around the filter. I'm not trying to add an electric turbo...

Last edited by snake2332; 10-06-2020 at 04:06 PM.
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Old 10-06-2020, 04:18 PM   #29
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but hey I know there are always naysayers on NASIOC.
Naysayers???

it's a computer fan duct taped to a dryer vent dude
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Old 10-06-2020, 04:20 PM   #30
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Quote:
There was no airflow coming from the fender area before this, per se, so there is no possible way to reduce or restrict airflow below zero
If there is a duct, there is air flow while in motion now. Like said before, leave the duct remove the fan. The fan is just a object in the way for that air flow

Quote:
Yes, I realize at low speeds the intake isn't sucking in much air, but now it's sucking in cooler air. I don't think you'll convince anyone that that is a bad thing, but hey I know there are always naysayers on NASIOC.
You are just over thinking this. The little colder air that is being sucked in with the help of the fan, via the intake, just got reheated back up by the turbo and the FMIC piping while not in motion. So again it doesn't matter and useless at idle or city driving.

Think about it. If the fans were such a great idea wouldn't you think F1 would use them for their brake cooling air ducts. No one is saying your idea is bad, just the fan part about it. Leave the ducts and insulate it better, and heat wrap your FMIC piping; especially the one right over your turbo right before the TB. And since your MAF reads your intake temp, you are getting incorrect readings. As the colder air passes the MAF it is just reheated without you reading it.

Last edited by BlackFighter; 10-06-2020 at 04:29 PM.
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Old 10-06-2020, 04:23 PM   #31
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So, just my 2 cents but I see your MAF is still at the filter, so your IAT are not representative of post intercooler temps.

I had a perrin 3076R rotated setup on my 2006 with a perrin FMIC kit and we literally had a filter clamped right onto the turbo (4" compressor inlet), I ran a blow through MAF so my IAT was actually being taken just before the throttle body, and my filter was near were yours is...the actual post FMIC temps were very good, at low boost just a few F above ambient, even at slow speeds.

Before you go down a big rabbit hole, you need to get data of your air temperature post FMIC.
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Old 10-06-2020, 04:30 PM   #32
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Ya I would love to go FMIC and speed-density where the MAF/MAP are moved and IAT are post IC. One day...
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Old 10-06-2020, 04:36 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by BlackFighter View Post
If there is a duct, there is air flow while in motion now. Like said before, leave the duct remove the fan. The fan is just a object in the way for that air flow



You are just over thinking this. The little colder air that is being sucked in with the help of the fan, via the intake, just got reheated back up by the turbo and the FMIC piping while not in motion. So again it doesn't matter and useless at idle or city driving.

Think about it. If the fans were such a great idea wouldn't you think F1 would use them for their brake cooling air ducts. No one is saying your idea is bad, just the fan part about it. Leave the ducts and insulate it better, and heat wrap your FMIC piping; especially the one right over your turbo right before the TB. And since your MAF reads your intake temp, you are getting incorrect readings. As the colder air passes the MAF it is just reheated without you reading it.
Sorry, I'm not the one with the FMIC.

Ya the air gets reheated by the turbo, but the MAF is using the temps and reducing boost targets by 4% and timing by ~5 degrees, which I don't like.

I got my insulation stuff in the mail yesterday and am going to go apply it. Kind of a lot of effort when I should just get the AEM CAI, but I like experimenting.
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Old 10-06-2020, 04:37 PM   #34
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Naysayers???

it's a computer fan duct taped to a dryer vent dude
Haters gonna hate
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Old 10-07-2020, 08:09 AM   #35
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Haters gonna hate
SMH

sorry man, nobody is "hating" on you. Again, you have a computer fan duct taped to a dryer vent. That is the visual representation of hack job. Everyone on here with a clue is agreeing that fan is ridiculous and your "intake" temps are at the air box, not intake manifold.
Blowing some cold air into the air box when the engine is fully throttled is useless.
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Old 10-07-2020, 09:11 AM   #36
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Ahh ok, thought post #3 was your eng bay. Well either way, remove the fan and build yourself a nice fiberglass custom duct.
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Old 10-07-2020, 09:44 AM   #37
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Haters gonna hate
Not really, you're just looking at inaccurate data. Your IAT numbers arent your actual IATs therefore, its meaningless.

Your cobb airbox is perfect, just keep the front snorkel thing on which is feeding you with nice fresh air from outside the engine bay. Your whole "but what if i'm in traffic" thing is meaningless, you are overthinking a non-existent issue, and even your assertion that you are going 45mph means that you are getting nice fresh air and good fake IATs.

This was my setup, bigger turbo etc, no IAT issues. I also read them from after the intercooler so its actual IAT



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Old 10-07-2020, 10:53 AM   #38
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You guys are funny. My tune is using MAF-read temps, so yes this setup does help. I'm not tricking it with artificial temps. The MAF isn't reading inaccurate data. The air being sucked in is cooler than if there was no fan, mostly when sitting in traffic or parking lots with the car running. No one can see the dryer vent, so visually I don't care what it looks like. The fact is this works and only cost me $15. And duct tape is literally made for this - I mean, it's DUCT tape.

IATs at the air filter may not matter to some people, but they do matter to the ECU if you're not doing a speed-density tune. If you look in Accesstuner/RomRaider, there are tables for IAT compensation for boost and timing. If you do a lot of city driving, this could affect you a lot of the time.

A fiberglass duct would be sweet. Nice hawkeye STI btw. Your engine bay is similar to mine with upgraded TMIC, radiator, airbox, and coilovers but with a lot of stock parts. I'm kind of surprised there isn't a premade plastic unit for sale that replaces the fog light bezel piece and funnels air up to the intake, but it's probably unneeded since that's what the snorkus already does, albeit from a warmer area. Still, people would buy it even if it barely helps, and I would argue a fan or two with a plug that connects to the DRL harness would be nice.

Sure, this setup barely helps, but it was worth the time and money to me. To each their own. I also had my subwoofer held in place with a door hinge in my '15 WRX trunk, had a wireless phone charger glued in place, and recently modified a $60 oven with a sledge hammer so it can fit 18" wheels for powder-coating. If it works, it isn't stupid (well, usually).
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Old 10-07-2020, 11:09 AM   #39
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This is why the longer I am on this forum, the less I want to help people. Its fine fellas, let him do whatever he wants. Obviously he does not want to listen to people that have already been down the rabbit hole. Not to wish anything bad upon anyone but i will be laughing when that compute fan short circuits and burns your car down.

The funny part is, its not even his thread. Sorry jimh3063 for having your thread jacked. Back to jimh3063 question, if that is a APS FMIC piping then use the APS CAI. That's what i did and it worked fine, Im sure some others would work too. Since you are the one with the FMIC, insulate them FMIC piping and either get a box with the OEM intake funnel like blurred did or go CAI. Please do not use any fans.

Last edited by BlackFighter; 10-07-2020 at 11:16 AM.
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Old 10-07-2020, 11:56 AM   #40
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You guys are funny.
^it's interesting this is always the line people use when a half dozen people all say the same thing and somebody simply won't hear it

"you guys are funny" criticizing my ridiculous computer fan duct taped to a dryer vent to increase cool air flow for parking lot performance and restricting cool air flow for actual road performance

sigh
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Old 10-07-2020, 12:00 PM   #41
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Sorry for jackin' the thread - didn't mean to, it just kinda snowballed and this was the first thread found when researching high intake temps, and I knew I'd get flamed if I started a new one.

I've yet to hear a logical reason for why my setup is bad, so keep on hating, I don't care. NASIOC has never been a friendly place to think outside the box, which is often a good thing to keep people from breaking their cars, so it's all good. No hard feelings, have a lovely life!
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Old 10-07-2020, 12:02 PM   #42
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You guys are funny. My tune is using MAF-read temps, so yes this setup does help. I'm not tricking it with artificial temps. The MAF isn't reading inaccurate data. The air being sucked in is cooler than if there was no fan, mostly when sitting in traffic or parking lots with the car running. No one can see the dryer vent, so visually I don't care what it looks like. The fact is this works and only cost me $15. And duct tape is literally made for this - I mean, it's DUCT tape.

IATs at the air filter may not matter to some people, but they do matter to the ECU if you're not doing a speed-density tune. If you look in Accesstuner/RomRaider, there are tables for IAT compensation for boost and timing. If you do a lot of city driving, this could affect you a lot of the time.

A fiberglass duct would be sweet. Nice hawkeye STI btw. Your engine bay is similar to mine with upgraded TMIC, radiator, airbox, and coilovers but with a lot of stock parts. I'm kind of surprised there isn't a premade plastic unit for sale that replaces the fog light bezel piece and funnels air up to the intake, but it's probably unneeded since that's what the snorkus already does, albeit from a warmer area. Still, people would buy it even if it barely helps, and I would argue a fan or two with a plug that connects to the DRL harness would be nice.

Sure, this setup barely helps, but it was worth the time and money to me. To each their own. I also had my subwoofer held in place with a door hinge in my '15 WRX trunk, had a wireless phone charger glued in place, and recently modified a $60 oven with a sledge hammer so it can fit 18" wheels for powder-coating. If it works, it isn't stupid (well, usually).
Ok, you are missing the point. the air is not actually hotter (at the temps you are seeing)... the sensor is hotter/reading hotter because it physically warms up in the engine bay. The air going through it is instantly cooler once you start moving. By the time your car has enough load to produce full torque at whatever rpm you are at, you have enough speed and airflow. Your fan and duct is fine for something like a transmission cooler/oil cooler/alternator cooling which would get heat soaked at low speeds or if they are placed in tight, hot engine bay areas, but for what you are doing now believe me they are completely useless, you are better off with just the duct.

And my engine bay is really not alot of stock parts left lol, its just designed to look that way and was also running hybrid maf/sd
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Old 10-07-2020, 01:14 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snake2332 View Post

I've yet to hear a logical reason for why my setup is bad
Quote:
Originally Posted by rtv900 View Post
to increase cool air flow for parking lot performance and restricting cool air flow for actual road performance
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Old 10-07-2020, 01:38 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by snake2332 View Post
I've yet to hear a logical reason for why my setup is bad, so keep on hating, I don't care. NASIOC has never been a friendly place to think outside the box, which is often a good thing to keep people from breaking their cars, so it's all good. No hard feelings, have a lovely life!
You have heard numerous logical reasons, you just won't accept them because you are hell bent on misinterpreting the data you are looking at.

What good is thinking outside the box if you can't listen to anything other than the idea that something works and is well thought out.

Anyhow, your goal is to see a lower number on your app whether it has any correlation to real world performance.
You were successful. You are blowing cooler air over a sensor in parking lot situations.
Enjoy looking at the app, just don't pop your hood in front of any real car guys or you are going to get laughed at with the home depot deluxe and computer repair shop dumpster find ducting setup.
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Old 10-07-2020, 01:56 PM   #45
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blurred just give up. Its his car, let him do whatever he wants. He should add some flame decals, those add like what, 5whp?

The funny part is that NASIOC is actually a friendly and very helpful forum. I felt attacked too at first but then learned, my way was not always the right way.
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Old 10-14-2020, 05:20 PM   #46
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Pretty surprised I haven't seen any mentions of hood louvers yet. When properly installed, they can help evacuate some of the hot air passing through the radiator, out the hood.

I live in a hot climate too (FL) and saw some pretty dramatic drops in intake temps by installing louvers + an undertray.
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Old 10-15-2020, 07:29 AM   #47
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Pretty surprised I haven't seen any mentions of hood louvers yet. When properly installed, they can help evacuate some of the hot air passing through the radiator, out the hood.

I live in a hot climate too (FL) and saw some pretty dramatic drops in intake temps by installing louvers + an undertray.
There's no point in utilizing rational mods when you can use an ultra low cfm fan designed for cooling a 2 square inch CPU in combination with dryer ducting from home depot

The only improvement over that would be painting stripes on the ducting to make it faster looking, yellow works best but red is ok in a pinch
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Old 10-15-2020, 04:24 PM   #48
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There's no point in utilizing rational mods when you can use an ultra low cfm fan designed for cooling a 2 square inch CPU in combination with dryer ducting from home depot

The only improvement over that would be painting stripes on the ducting to make it faster looking, yellow works best but red is ok in a pinch
That's fair. I think blue is pretty cool too. I herd if you put sparkles in the paint, it deflects heat.
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Old 10-25-2020, 06:21 PM   #49
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To reduce iat I removed the hood insulation on my 13 sti.

Didn't do anything other than keep the dew off it lol.
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Old 10-27-2020, 10:12 PM   #50
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I tried to end this on a friendly note, but you just couldn't let it be, could you?

First, you can't see the ghetto setup so no "real car guys" like you Phillies are going to laugh at me if they look under the hood. Jesus, how shallow are you if you care about something like that?

Second, the air supplied to the filter is cooler when the car isn't moving, especially now that I've added insulating material. That's all that my goal was and I fully admitted it's mostly a placebo.

Third, your rude comments are uncalled for and you don't even understand it since you're saying 150CFM is "ultra low" (it's not), you think I've restricted air flow by literally adding air flow, and you think someone could visually see it under the hood despite the Cobb airbox obviously hiding it. And when you get moving from a stand-still, it takes some time for the MAF to drop temps, so it's not completely pointless when in stop-and-go traffic for that max temp to be lower.

This mod was easy, cheap, and fulfilled my goal. I listened to and considered your feedback and see no reason to undo anything, though I still might take the fan out at some point. You didn't have to get nasty and immature, but then again you guys boo Santa and throw snowballs at him, so I'm not surprised.
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