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Old 10-09-2020, 10:43 PM   #1
3-MPG
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Default Did I just bend a valve?

I had to re-time my motor. I lined up the cam sprocket mark at TDC. I placed the cam locking tool on the driver's side to lock up the cams. When I rotated the exhaust cam counter clockwise there was some resistance. I continued to turn the cam and there was a click and the cam was easier to move. I'm hoping i didn't mess anything up. Was that the valve spring making the noise or did i just f*ck up a valve? Is that normal?
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Old 10-09-2020, 11:16 PM   #2
JSR84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3-MPG View Post
I had to re-time my motor. I lined up the cam sprocket mark at TDC. I placed the cam locking tool on the driver's side to lock up the cams. When I rotated the exhaust cam counter clockwise there was some resistance. I continued to turn the cam and there was a click and the cam was easier to move. I'm hoping i didn't mess anything up. Was that the valve spring making the noise or did i just f*ck up a valve? Is that normal?
Which way did you rotate the cam?
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Old 10-09-2020, 11:23 PM   #3
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Which way did you rotate the cam?
I rotated the exhaust cam counter clockwise
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Old 10-10-2020, 12:27 AM   #4
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On the drivers side, the intake and exhaust valves are lifted when installing the timing belt - they want you to move them as little as possible to line things up as the valves can interfere with one another (intake and exhaust) - you rotated it in the right direction, so hopefully all is well - was it a lot of resistance? Were you rotating by hand, or with a tool with some leverage?

About all you can do is reassemble and see how it goes - if it's idling funny, misfiring, etc., then do a compression check on the engine and see if one of the cylinders is low on the drivers side. I am guessing you are fine, though.
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Old 10-10-2020, 01:07 AM   #5
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On the drivers side, the intake and exhaust valves are lifted when installing the timing belt - they want you to move them as little as possible to line things up as the valves can interfere with one another (intake and exhaust) - you rotated it in the right direction, so hopefully all is well - was it a lot of resistance? Were you rotating by hand, or with a tool with some leverage?


About all you can do is reassemble and see how it goes - if it's idling funny, misfiring, etc., then do a compression check on the engine and see if one of the cylinders is low on the drivers side. I am guessing you are fine, though.
Ok I appreciate it. I guess weíll see. I have a feeling I contacted valves even though I was moving everything in the right direction. Just makes me sick to my stomach.
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Old 10-10-2020, 02:47 AM   #6
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Typically you'll bend valves if you totally screw this up and try to bump it over with the starter. Solely spring pressure shouldn't crash the valves into the piston bad enough to bend them. You would also be able to feel resistance when rotating the cam on that side if it/some were bent. I'm guessing what you did is release compression, and that's why it seems easier to move.
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Old 10-10-2020, 03:36 AM   #7
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If you have the crank lined up with the timing mark properly, then it's not actually at TDC. The pistons are half way through their stroke. You won't have valve interference with the pistons, they could interfere with each other potentially. Driver side cams are under tension. Pass side are not. Obviously we weren't there to witness but there's a good chance you're fine. Unfortunately, the easy way to find out is put it all back together and see what happens. Otherwise, if you can get your hands on a bore scope then you can look at the valves on that side of the engine.
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Old 10-10-2020, 09:02 AM   #8
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unless you put a 3 foot pipe on a breaker bar and hung on it you did not bend a valve by rotating by hand.

that's the whole reason they say do it by hand if there is any uncertainty, because it is safe.
The starter is a different story.
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Old 10-10-2020, 09:23 AM   #9
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you can do a leakdown test where it sits, just lock the flywheel from turning when you do each test.
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Old 10-10-2020, 01:52 PM   #10
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unless you put a 3 foot pipe on a breaker bar and hung on it you did not bend a valve by rotating by hand.

that's the whole reason they say do it by hand if there is any uncertainty, because it is safe.
The starter is a different story.
No it wasnít that hard but I turned the cam locking tool with a wrench to turn the cam and I heard metal to metal contact. Pretty stupid of me, I thought I was fighting the spring. I guess weíll find out later this week when itís put back together. Hopefully just rubbed the valves. Iíve been praying to the gods
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Old 10-10-2020, 05:02 PM   #11
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Unless you had the eng running, I'm sure you didn't bent the valve. If you were doing everything y hand, the valve should still be fine.
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Old 10-11-2020, 06:38 PM   #12
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Even with metal to metal contact you're probably fine man. You'd know for sure if you bent one. It wouldn't be a small click, it'd be a hard mechanical stop. You'd need a fair bit of force to bend it.
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Old 10-11-2020, 10:20 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barles Charkley View Post
Typically you'll bend valves if you totally screw this up and try to bump it over with the starter. Solely spring pressure shouldn't crash the valves into the piston bad enough to bend them. You would also be able to feel resistance when rotating the cam on that side if it/some were bent. I'm guessing what you did is release compression, and that's why it seems easier to move.
With the drivers side cams, it's not piston to valve contact (like when a timing belt snaps), it's valve to valve contact that you are working to avoid.

per the service manual
Quote:
After the timing belt has been removed, never rotate the intake and exhaust cam sprocket. If the cam sprocket is rotated, the intake and exhaust valve heads strike together and valve stems are bent.
and
Quote:
Camshafts LH must be rotated from the zero-lift position to the position where the timing belt is to be installed with the smallest possible angle, in order to prevent mutual interference of intake and exhaust valve heads.
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Old 10-12-2020, 01:31 AM   #14
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With the drivers side cams, it's not piston to valve contact (like when a timing belt snaps), it's valve to valve contact that you are working to avoid.

per the service manual
and
Dr D, Pretty sure I f*cked up. I installed the cam locking tool but I didnít release the cams afterward. So essentially the engine still thinks it has a timing belt installed, and valves were lifted. When I rotated the cam, I hit resistance and continued to turn, I thought I was going against the spring but then I heard metal to metal.. I was so confused at the time because I rotated in the right direction, but my dumbass didnít release the cams to close the valves in the first place. Anyways, Iím pretty sure I had valve to valve contact and thatís what I felt. So I went from a simple timing adjustment to possibly destroying my head on a fully built engine. I have a leak down and compression tester on hand. Iíll conduct a compression test once I put it all together this week but Iím not hopeful. Pretty upset all weekend. Looks like, Iím that guy on NASIOC
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Old 10-13-2020, 10:21 PM   #15
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Performed a leakdown and there was roughly 5% on cylinder 2 & 4. I may have been extremely lucky. Nevertheless I***8217;m going to borescope the valves for some closure before I put it all back together.
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