Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Saturday May 8, 2021
Home Forums Images WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Pre-2002 Factory Turbo Powertrain

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.







* As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. 
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads. 
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-17-2013, 11:02 PM   #1
razerv3c1
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 354933
Join Date: Apr 2013
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: whitecourt
Vehicle:
98 wrx sti
white

Default 98 ver 4 sti ej20k help

So I jut bought my 98 sti and I'm new to this and upgrades and what not. Can anyone help me out I want a reliable 300whp to all 4's what would I have to do to achieve this and still be safe because I know these ej20s have a temper and like to go booom?
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
razerv3c1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Old 07-18-2013, 10:21 PM   #2
Cbgrandtheftauto
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 184977
Join Date: Jul 2008
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: TN
Vehicle:
99 Impreza RS
'13 BRZ

Default

They don't like to "go boom". It's an old motor. You beat on it, you suffer the consequences.

Good first mod would be freeing up the intake/exhaust restrictions. Not sure if Rob still does chips for those ECU's, but that would be of help.

For 300whp you are looking at some hefty modding, swapping out the turbo, larger I/C or FMIC, injectors, etc..
Cbgrandtheftauto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2013, 10:29 PM   #3
Version4Owner
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 361044
Join Date: Jun 2013
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Vehicle:
1998 STI V4 RA V-Ltd
Blue

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by razerv3c1 View Post
So I jut bought my 98 sti and I'm new to this and upgrades and what not. Can anyone help me out I want a reliable 300whp to all 4's what would I have to do to achieve this and still be safe because I know these ej20s have a temper and like to go booom?
Rob's tune only covers the EJ20G motor, he is working on the EJ20K but is not complete yet.

Reliability is always different for every car and if you're thinking about tuning your 15 year old car up to 300whp you need to realize you're not going to have that great of reliability.

You question is pretty general, but a common start is air flow (as mentioned above ^). So get a full 3" turbo back exhaust system, but beware of the fact that a 3" downpipe will cause your turbo to spike, which can obviously cause serious issues. A tune will solve this problem, or you can get a boost controller to bring the boost down a couple psi until you get a tune.

Intakes don't really help that much performance wise but they sound pretty nice. If you want 300 whp you're going to need to upgrade your fuel pump and injectors for sure. Walbro 255 for the pump is a very common choice, and I'm not sure what size injectors you would need.

Try searching around to see what mods others have done to these cars. As for me, my version 4 doesn't get here for another couple weeks. I'm keeping mine stock at first, then getting the full exhaust and a tune later on.
Version4Owner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2013, 07:39 PM   #4
razerv3c1
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 354933
Join Date: Apr 2013
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: whitecourt
Vehicle:
98 wrx sti
white

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Version4Owner View Post
Rob's tune only covers the EJ20G motor, he is working on the EJ20K but is not complete yet.

Reliability is always different for every car and if you're thinking about tuning your 15 year old car up to 300whp you need to realize you're not going to have that great of reliability.

You question is pretty general, but a common start is air flow (as mentioned above ^). So get a full 3" turbo back exhaust system, but beware of the fact that a 3" downpipe will cause your turbo to spike, which can obviously cause serious issues. A tune will solve this problem, or you can get a boost controller to bring the boost down a couple psi until you get a tune.

Intakes don't really help that much performance wise but they sound pretty nice. If you want 300 whp you're going to need to upgrade your fuel pump and injectors for sure. Walbro 255 for the pump is a very common choice, and I'm not sure what size injectors you would need.

Try searching around to see what mods others have done to these cars. As for me, my version 4 doesn't get here for another couple weeks. I'm keeping mine stock at first, then getting the full exhaust and a tune later on.
Thanks for the info, I'm looking into a bpm 38 series twin dump down pipe to a 3" straight pipe with a nur spec r muffler, and of course an intake. It will cost some change to get 300 atw I know that for sure. Just unsure of what needed. Turbo, I/c, injectors, fuel pump, exhaust, intake and a tune should get me close? Is there anything I'm missing? Also would you have any suggestions on what seems to fail on the ej20k's that would be worth replacing b4 doing any of this?

Another thing, mine tops out at I'm pretty sure 190kmh, to take out that so I can have a higher tops speed, simply a tune would work would it not?

Right now all she's got is hks bov, mbc (turned down to stock, was running 18psi but clutch is not really liking that and wants to be replaced), and sti exhaust not sure if they come stock with it or not. Basically stock.
razerv3c1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2013, 08:04 PM   #5
Version4Owner
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 361044
Join Date: Jun 2013
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Vehicle:
1998 STI V4 RA V-Ltd
Blue

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by razerv3c1 View Post
Thanks for the info, I'm looking into a bpm 38 series twin dump down pipe to a 3" straight pipe with a nur spec r muffler, and of course an intake. It will cost some change to get 300 atw I know that for sure. Just unsure of what needed. Turbo, I/c, injectors, fuel pump, exhaust, intake and a tune should get me close? Is there anything I'm missing? Also would you have any suggestions on what seems to fail on the ej20k's that would be worth replacing b4 doing any of this?

Another thing, mine tops out at I'm pretty sure 190kmh, to take out that so I can have a higher tops speed, simply a tune would work would it not?

Right now all she's got is hks bov, mbc (turned down to stock, was running 18psi but clutch is not really liking that and wants to be replaced), and sti exhaust not sure if they come stock with it or not. Basically stock.
Hey again,

To be perfectly honest I'm just starting to gather information on these cars myself. What I do know more about is the Lancer evos, as I had a 4 last year. I know that with an evo from the same time period as these ej20ks, you would be looking at 300-320 awhp with the following:

>Full 3***8243; exhaust system

>Aftermarket air filter (Short ram intake or just replacement panel filter)

>Walbro 255L Fuel Pump

>Bigger injectors, not sure what size you'd need for this car. In the area of 450-500cc though I would say.

>Recirculated BOV/BPV (Mainly a recommendation as the tune would account for your atmospheric BOV) Just do a search on the benefits of having it recirculating.

>NGK Spark Plugs custom gapped (I think for the Sti the recommended gap is 0.03 but you should double check that number with someone more familiar)

>Tune (including more boost)

As I said this may not be what others would recommend for achieving your goal in this car. This is what I think would get you at least very close to your goal.

As far as I know you wouldn't need to upgrade your turbo but you may want to ask someone with actual experience.

I'm not at all sure what the weak points are with these engines. What is the highest grade of gasoline you have access to? I know for me I'll be running mine stock until I get a tune because I only have access to 91 octane, and knock is always a possibility.

One of the main things you can change when tuning your car is the speed limiter, so that won't be an issue.

As far as actually tuning your car goes you have a few options. I myself have decided to go with this one:

Enduring Solutions Limited (ESL) - Click Here

I was recommended to use this by a friend, however you could also go with Haltech or Power FC. I like the ESL option is it's cheaper and has more options built into it, probably most notably is knock control.

Hope this information helps. And again, do more research before actually purchasing this stuff. There are people who knows loads more than I do about this ****. This is all second hand information, and things I've learned from asking the same sort of questions over time.

Good luck!
Version4Owner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2013, 12:39 PM   #6
69subaru360
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 159682
Join Date: Sep 2007
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Maine
Vehicle:
1995 WRX
2015 F150

Default

A turbo back exhaust, injectors, a fuel pump and some tuning will get you to 300 whp.

Reliable? It's a K, they like to blow up and who knows how it was treated overseas. Probably will be ok.

I'd suggest you keep it a little more reasonable on a stock engine like 18 psi and say 280 whp. If you push it much past 320 it will kick the rods out eventually.
69subaru360 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2013, 09:22 AM   #7
razerv3c1
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 354933
Join Date: Apr 2013
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: whitecourt
Vehicle:
98 wrx sti
white

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 69subaru360 View Post
A turbo back exhaust, injectors, a fuel pump and some tuning will get you to 300 whp.

Reliable? It's a K, they like to blow up and who knows how it was treated overseas. Probably will be ok.

I'd suggest you keep it a little more reasonable on a stock engine like 18 psi and say 280 whp. If you push it much past 320 it will kick the rods out eventually.

So what internals should I do to prevent it from kicking the rods out and or going boom? 280 atw is still pretty good IMO. Im running 18.9 psi right now on my stock turbo, they come stock with 276 hp at what 12 or 13 psi? I'd like to get it on a dyno to see what she's all ready pushing just to get an idea of what I'm working with here.
razerv3c1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2013, 09:24 AM   #8
razerv3c1
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 354933
Join Date: Apr 2013
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: whitecourt
Vehicle:
98 wrx sti
white

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Version4Owner View Post
Hey again,

To be perfectly honest I'm just starting to gather information on these cars myself. What I do know more about is the Lancer evos, as I had a 4 last year. I know that with an evo from the same time period as these ej20ks, you would be looking at 300-320 awhp with the following:

>Full 3″ exhaust system

>Aftermarket air filter (Short ram intake or just replacement panel filter)

>Walbro 255L Fuel Pump

>Bigger injectors, not sure what size you'd need for this car. In the area of 450-500cc though I would say.

>Recirculated BOV/BPV (Mainly a recommendation as the tune would account for your atmospheric BOV) Just do a search on the benefits of having it recirculating.

>NGK Spark Plugs ***150; custom gapped (I think for the Sti the recommended gap is 0.03 but you should double check that number with someone more familiar)

>Tune (including more boost)

As I said this may not be what others would recommend for achieving your goal in this car. This is what I think would get you at least very close to your goal.

As far as I know you wouldn't need to upgrade your turbo but you may want to ask someone with actual experience.

I'm not at all sure what the weak points are with these engines. What is the highest grade of gasoline you have access to? I know for me I'll be running mine stock until I get a tune because I only have access to 91 octane, and knock is always a possibility.

One of the main things you can change when tuning your car is the speed limiter, so that won't be an issue.

As far as actually tuning your car goes you have a few options. I myself have decided to go with this one:

Enduring Solutions Limited (ESL) - Click Here

I was recommended to use this by a friend, however you could also go with Haltech or Power FC. I like the ESL option is it's cheaper and has more options built into it, probably most notably is knock control.

Hope this information helps. And again, do more research before actually purchasing this stuff. There are people who knows loads more than I do about this ****. This is all second hand information, and things I've learned from asking the same sort of questions over time.

Good luck!

Wow that's perfect, thanks alot. I'm forsure going to do my research asking around and what not. Just got the car so I'm shooting for next spring to have this done to it. I want some time to get to know the car and what not. I'm running 94 octane, only 1.44/L couple cents more then 91 which isn't to bad.. Plus it's better IMO Donno if she has an effect becuase I've heard story's that is all bs but i still put it in for the sake of it.

About the bov, why would I need a recirculating bov, can I not just keep my ssqv4? If its a big help to have recirculating bov ill get the adapter for it.

Also I've heard once about gaping the plugs, why is it that you need to do this? And how do you gap them?

Appreciate all the info just one last question haha, I'm stuck in deciding what clutch I should go with cuz mines running outta life. I've been searching and maybe it's just me but all the parts I'm looking at go from 02 and up nothing for the 90's or gc8's. you know of any that would be good and able to handle 300atw but nothing to crazy?
razerv3c1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2013, 09:34 AM   #9
69subaru360
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 159682
Join Date: Sep 2007
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Maine
Vehicle:
1995 WRX
2015 F150

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by razerv3c1 View Post
So what internals should I do to prevent it from kicking the rods out and or going boom? 280 atw is still pretty good IMO. Im running 18.9 psi right now on my stock turbo, they come stock with 276 hp at what 12 or 13 psi? I'd like to get it on a dyno to see what she's all ready pushing just to get an idea of what I'm working with here.
Any decent aftermarket rods, forged pistons and good bearings and it will be good to go for lots more power.

Mine is an EJ20G but pretty similar and makes 286 whp. It's plenty good for a daily driver and has been really reliable for the last 3 year and 30k miles at that power on the stock engine.

Everyone that tries to go over 300 on the stock engine seems to blow it up eventually. 280 whp in a 2800 lb car is plenty fast for a driver. Mine went [email protected] and will pull hard in 5th gear all the way to where the speedo is buried at 145.
69subaru360 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2013, 09:50 AM   #10
Jaxx
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 177
Join Date: Aug 1999
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Austin, Texas, USA
Vehicle:
The 93 W/EJ20K-sold
Subaru-less :(

Default

the k has its own issues i have had mine now for 7 years ..

esl + 550-650 cc injectors (it already has 480cc) and a tuner that knows how to use it (this is the bulk of the expense $1500-2000)

buy the cheapest down pipe that is well made ,spend the $ on a high flow cat (save a kitten) and a cat back
use 02+ parts(dp+catback as a set) and have an o2 sensor bung welded in the neck of the dp, ignore the egt sensor in the DP (honey badger ecu don't care)
(your divorced DP idea won't work well)

and usual maintenance things on a 15 year old motor
water pump,timing belt,cam and crank oil seals, plug wires, coils,radiator, hoses, intercooler
let your tuner decide on the gap on the plugs

buy a stock clutch 02 clutch ... clutches are way cheaper than transmissions

the k is an maf car all the ssq will do is make fire balls and noise
unless its perfectly adjusted, its is leaking or causing compressor surge

stay away from the power fc its just too old
Jaxx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2013, 11:01 AM   #11
Version4Owner
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 361044
Join Date: Jun 2013
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Vehicle:
1998 STI V4 RA V-Ltd
Blue

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaxx View Post
the k has its own issues i have had mine now for 7 years ..

esl + 550-650 cc injectors (it already has 480cc) and a tuner that knows how to use it (this is the bulk of the expense $1500-2000)

buy the cheapest down pipe that is well made ,spend the $ on a high flow cat (save a kitten) and a cat back
use 02+ parts(dp+catback as a set) and have an o2 sensor bung welded in the neck of the dp, ignore the egt sensor in the DP (honey badger ecu don't care)
(your divorced DP idea won't work well)

and usual maintenance things on a 15 year old motor
water pump,timing belt,cam and crank oil seals, plug wires, coils,radiator, hoses, intercooler
let your tuner decide on the gap on the plugs

buy a stock clutch 02 clutch ... clutches are way cheaper than transmissions

the k is an maf car all the ssq will do is make fire balls and noise
unless its perfectly adjusted, its is leaking or causing compressor surge

stay away from the power fc its just too old
Great info, I didn't know you could use a clutch from an 02 model. Thanks for that!
Version4Owner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2013, 11:23 AM   #12
Version4Owner
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 361044
Join Date: Jun 2013
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Vehicle:
1998 STI V4 RA V-Ltd
Blue

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by razerv3c1 View Post
Wow that's perfect, thanks alot. I'm forsure going to do my research asking around and what not. Just got the car so I'm shooting for next spring to have this done to it. I want some time to get to know the car and what not. I'm running 94 octane, only 1.44/L couple cents more then 91 which isn't to bad.. Plus it's better IMO Donno if she has an effect becuase I've heard story's that is all bs but i still put it in for the sake of it.

About the bov, why would I need a recirculating bov, can I not just keep my ssqv4? If its a big help to have recirculating bov ill get the adapter for it.

Also I've heard once about gaping the plugs, why is it that you need to do this? And how do you gap them?

Appreciate all the info just one last question haha, I'm stuck in deciding what clutch I should go with cuz mines running outta life. I've been searching and maybe it's just me but all the parts I'm looking at go from 02 and up nothing for the 90's or gc8's. you know of any that would be good and able to handle 300atw but nothing to crazy?
The issue regarding octane levels as far as I'm concerned is a very real danger. Many people run these jdm cars on 91 octane without a tune and seem to have no issues however it's just always in the back of my mind that something could go wrong.

It's not all bull**** though despite some peoples opinions. The higher the octane, the more resistance the fuel has to combustion. In other words if you're using a lower grade fuel than you should be, your fuel could ignite too early. You should be doing pretty well on 94 octane though, I wish I had access to that. And regardless of this if you get your car tuned you won't have to worry about this as your ECU will be programmed while using whatever gas is in your tank.

As someone already stated aftermarket BOVs more often than not cause issues due to not being fitted properly or adjusted properly for the car. Most people just buy a cool sounding BOV and slap it on and off they go. Your stock bypass valve will always fit better than an aftermarket BOV. Also if you're venting the air from the BOV to the atmosphere than you will be running rich in between shifts. This is something than can be adjusted for while you're tuning the car, but I think it makes more sense to just go with the stock valves, which are normally rated for a lot more boost than most people tend to think. Not sure what this one would be good for.

The right gap for your spark plugs will optimize how your car drives. The gap affects how big the spark is, how the burn takes place and even has an effect on your fuel efficiency. There are gaping tools that you can buy.

An OEM clutch can handle that amount of power with no issue. Apparently a 2002 clutch will work, which I did not know but is useful information. If you were for whatever reason interested in finding the actual OEM clutch for your car you could probably find one on a site like RHDJapan.com or if you really needed to on the yahoo auctions. If you look around on this site there are probably vendors who could help you source parts from Japan. Another forum that I'm more familiar with is JDMVIP.com, the member named "SASTRAD" on that forum can help you find parts in Japan.
Version4Owner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2013, 01:05 PM   #13
iamshayan
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 338484
Join Date: Nov 2012
Default

what are the benefits to esl compared to say Apexi power FC? I also just picked up an ej20k and am just doing research.
iamshayan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2013, 01:15 PM   #14
69subaru360
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 159682
Join Date: Sep 2007
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Maine
Vehicle:
1995 WRX
2015 F150

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by iamshayan View Post
what are the benefits to esl compared to say Apexi power FC? I also just picked up an ej20k and am just doing research.
Knock control and easier software.
69subaru360 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2013, 04:43 PM   #15
Version4Owner
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 361044
Join Date: Jun 2013
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Vehicle:
1998 STI V4 RA V-Ltd
Blue

Default

I've been recommended to use the ESL over any standalone by quite a few people now, and only one person said anything different. I won't go into detail on who this was or what they said, but let's just say it didn't paint a pretty picture. I took it upon myself to ask Andy from ESL what he thought about what this person had said, just so I could get the information set straight in my head.

Here is part of what Andy said to me in an email where he was responding to my concerns/questions.

"The stock ECU will give a better run quality than any other standalone. This is an advantage. The components on the stock ECU are custom ICs unlike standalones because JECS had alot more money to develop the hardware and firmware. The quality of the Analog to Digital convertors on a JECS ECU are way beyond what you would get on a standalone.

It has more features than the PFC and costs alot less; a comparison:

From Nengun; PFC 685. AVCR to control boost 367.
ESL 295.
What you DON'T get for spending an extra 757:

Closed Loop Knock Control.
Twin Maps (full, not offsets).
Switchable Speed Density load (MAFless) with AIT compensations.
OEM idle cruise and hot/cold starting compensations.
Diagnostic test codes.
Brand New Windows software
Comprehensive online documentation.
New for 2012 domestic product with excellent customer support

Furthermore:

ESL Cable Dongle and software: 75.
Datalogit cable and software 186."


So even just looking at that, it's pretty hard to argue that the ESL doesn't have its advantages. I can't seem to find any advantage of using the PFC to be honest.
Version4Owner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2013, 04:40 PM   #16
Jaxx
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 177
Join Date: Aug 1999
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Austin, Texas, USA
Vehicle:
The 93 W/EJ20K-sold
Subaru-less :(

Default

re: pfc for the k
first there are at least 3 versions of hardware.perhaps many many more different rom revisions

i had an early version .. it was a complete nightmare the base map would barely start the car and no matter what i tried i could never get enough fuel over 1 bar

Last edited by Jaxx; 08-17-2013 at 06:42 PM.
Jaxx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2013, 11:32 AM   #17
Stunko
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 366091
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Mauritius
Vehicle:
1997 Gc8
Blue

Default

I have your exact car. There are some headaches but nothing that can't be maintained.
Personally I think the gc8 sti is the best of em all, so do many other people because they feel more mechanical than newer models and also came out stock with the most power.

A few things to look out for are the following:

02 sensors- they fry through them if not running correctly
Afm - can go at any time
Coil pack- get brittle and old.

For mods you can get very good power with stock ecu.

Ihi td05 16g
Full 3 inch turbo back
Fmic - many people are against it, but personally I gained heaps from it and it makes boost come on very hard.
Brakes- good pads are required as stock are spongy and not responsive
Boost gauge
Wide band is a must to check a/f ratios on the fly
You can run about 1 bar on a factory sti motor.

Always run the best fuel.

Hope this helps
Stunko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2017, 01:40 AM   #18
i10scooby
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 459133
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Houston, Tx
Vehicle:
2004 Forester

Default

Do we have any updates on this car? Did you decide to go 300 or keep it around 280? What mods did you do and is everything still running okay?
i10scooby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2017, 02:03 AM   #19
Vancouver98STi
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 459287
Join Date: Dec 2016
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver BC Canada
Vehicle:
1998 JDM Impreza STi
V4 GF8 White

Unhappy T'was a no go...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Version4Owner View Post

Rob's tune only covers the EJ20G motor, he is working on the EJ20K but is not complete yet.
Kind of a shame that it never materialized. I would've liked to have had that option.
Vancouver98STi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2017, 08:29 PM   #20
i10scooby
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 459133
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Houston, Tx
Vehicle:
2004 Forester

Default

I emailed him recently about his tunes and he said he is out of the e-prom chips but "very close to an alternate solution." Not sure if his new platform will encompass the EJ20K as well, but one can hope...
i10scooby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2017, 10:04 PM   #21
Vancouver98STi
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 459287
Join Date: Dec 2016
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver BC Canada
Vehicle:
1998 JDM Impreza STi
V4 GF8 White

Lightbulb Fingers crossed...

Quote:
Originally Posted by i10scooby View Post

..."very close to an alternate solution." Not sure if his new platform will encompass the EJ20K as well, but one can hope...
That would be great... but from reading old threads, Rob was "very close" to having a tune for the EJ20K years ago as well.

However, you're right... one can hope!
Vancouver98STi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2017, 12:37 PM   #22
mrgf8sti
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 410300
Join Date: Jan 2015
Default

I'm running an ESL ecu. I haven't got the chance to get it tuned. It was around $600cdn when I got it last February.
mrgf8sti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2017, 07:58 PM   #23
Vancouver98STi
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 459287
Join Date: Dec 2016
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver BC Canada
Vehicle:
1998 JDM Impreza STi
V4 GF8 White

Question In Canada?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgf8sti View Post

I'm running an ESL ecu.... It was around $600cdn
If you're on the west coast... I'm curious where you plan to have it tuned?

Last edited by Vancouver98STi; 03-14-2017 at 08:07 PM. Reason: Clarification
Vancouver98STi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2017, 09:16 PM   #24
mrgf8sti
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 410300
Join Date: Jan 2015
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vancouver98STi View Post
If you're on the west coast... I'm curious where you plan to have it tuned?
Winnipeg, we don't have a dyno but we have a subaru specialist that builds and road tunes subbies.
mrgf8sti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2017, 10:38 PM   #25
Sweetsixteam
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 427168
Join Date: Aug 2015
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver, BC
Vehicle:
1999 Forester S/Tb
Silver, Spec A (JDM)

Default

Another option is around now, my car wasn't supported by ESL so I got lucky and found someone local that could tune it. Now he's released a Bluetooth reciever/transmitter that can log, flash, etc.

Looks like it supports the 98 JDM STI

https://lambdatuning.com/support/supported-vehicles/
Sweetsixteam is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:23 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2021 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2019, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.