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Old 07-10-2007, 02:16 PM   #301
bjteel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LyveWRX View Post
Hopefully when you hit it with the hammer you dont hit the inner race, and getting the hub into the bearing must be a pain.
You don't hit the inner race because they are sandwiched together. If you mean the machined portion of the hub assy, well you don't hit that either if you are using a big socket as a punch.

Getting the bearing in the hub isn't hard at all if you freeze the bearing and heat up the hub assy.
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Old 07-12-2007, 02:18 PM   #302
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But the hub fits into the bearing, the bearing fits into the knuckle, the axle spline fits into the hub.


Or do you mean to heat the knuckle and freeze the bearing, then how do you get the hub into the bearing?

I'm not picking on you I swear, I just dont quite get your description.
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Old 07-12-2007, 02:32 PM   #303
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Heat up the knuckle/bearing and freeze the hub? I'd be careful heating up the knuckle/bearing though... that's a good way to destroy the seals.
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Old 08-04-2007, 03:01 PM   #304
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I have read all 13 pages and still have a question. I have seen a front cv shaft nut torque of 162 ft/lbs for an 04 STI. Then you stake the nut so it won't back off. It seems like this would load the bearings to this level which seems pretty high. I remember back in the day when we would snug the bearing then back the nut off to the first cotter pin hole. I realize the Subaru is a different set up but it seems like that puts a pretty high load on the bearings. I don't want to spend all the money on new hubs and bearings only to get this step wrong and ruin the whole job. Thanks for any info on this very important step. By the way the origional post was real good and much appreciated.
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Old 08-04-2007, 04:05 PM   #305
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axle nut is 137 ft lbs (unless the STi has a different spec????)- still high, but that's right from the FSM- and there have been many cases where these have loosened- not ideal as you can imagine.

you stake the nut exactly where it lies when you hit 137- you don't have to go any further (or back it off) like you would w/ a castle nut
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Old 10-02-2007, 01:01 AM   #306
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What a great write up. Thank you!!
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Old 11-08-2007, 04:10 AM   #307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freakboy2 View Post
started replacing rear bearing on forester yesterday. used pvc pipe to pull bearing but a portion of the race natrally stayed with the hub. As it was Sat. and most machine shops were closed I had few options. I went to a shop I that advertised as specialitsts in axle/cv repairs- Big mistake. They cut the bearing race off with a wizzer cut off wheel and scored a spiraling gouge in the hub portion that presses into the bearing. This is why I use the dealer or myself for repairs.
My problem is- in my distress over the now damaged hub (which I'm sure now needs to be replaced) I did not ask him the orientation of the seal which came off with the race. The outer seal is shaped like a flat bottom U. Which direction should the open portion of the U face. either toward the car center or away?
also When I do the other side I think I will remove the entire rear knuckle since I need to go to a real machine shop anyway. Does the car need to be aligned if I remove the knuckle? That was my main reason for the PVC press tool which worked well.
Great writeup hotrod!

for anyone else dealing with getting the bearing off the hub...this is the special tool (pictured here in hotrods OP)



and here...





it's kind of wedged so the initial tip slips under the bearing and then as you tighten it, the wedge lifts the bearing up.

Not sure if this tool is available, but many tools (including axle puller, ball joint pickle fork etc) are available at autozone in their "loan a tool" program.

http://www.autozone.com/in_our_store...oan_a_tool.htm
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Old 12-06-2007, 05:15 PM   #308
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I just did this another time and updated my FAQ/How-To on the PVC method.

http://rs.pmgz.net/?page_id=17
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Old 12-06-2007, 05:28 PM   #309
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^^wow bookmark
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Old 12-06-2007, 05:42 PM   #310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kainam00 View Post
I just did this another time and updated my FAQ/How-To on the PVC method.

http://rs.pmgz.net/?page_id=17
Very cool, nice updates! We need to edit and refine this thread.
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Old 12-06-2007, 10:49 PM   #311
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Not sure if anyone catch this yet. On page one of this thread. In the pics you have. You got the seals on wrong. The one you put on as the outter, is the inner and viseversa.
The inner seal has that extra lip too the seal too seal against the axle housing too keep dirt from getting to the main seal.
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Old 12-06-2007, 11:07 PM   #312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick L View Post
The inner seal has that extra lip too the seal too seal against the axle housing too keep dirt from getting to the main seal.
Patrick, could you please try to explain that with proper grammar so that I may make any corrections if needed, thanks.

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Old 12-06-2007, 11:17 PM   #313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick L View Post
Not sure if anyone catch this yet. On page one of this thread. In the pics you have. You got the seals on wrong. The one you put on as the outter, is the inner and viseversa.
The inner seal has that extra lip too the seal too seal against the axle housing too keep dirt from getting to the main seal.
You sure about that? From the tech diagrams I've seen the extra lip is to bump up against the back of the hub thus it goes on the outside.
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Old 12-07-2007, 06:38 PM   #314
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NO, I just got off the phone with a Subaru master tech in OKC that is a good friend of mine to varify. The one with the extra lip in the inner seal. The lip in used as a dust seal. I can't count how many bearing and hub swaps I have done and when I saw those pics. That was the first thing that jumped out at me.

You can also tell by the old one. It does not have the extra lip.
http://www.revo1.com/subbiebearing/images/IMG_8316.jpg
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Old 12-07-2007, 11:19 PM   #315
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I've got to agree with Patrick L on this one. The seal that I've got in my hand (part number 28015AA080) is labelled "OIL SEAL IN FT" which likely means oil seal inner front. That part number is also listed as the inner seal according to subaruparts.com.

-Bryce
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Old 12-07-2007, 11:55 PM   #316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotrodguru View Post
Assembly of Hub

Press the following items in this order.

1. Bearing (inside out)
2. Seal (outer seal, before inserting hub)
3. Hub (outside in)
4. Seal (inner), the seal with the lip is the outer seal, lip goes pointing towards the wheel and acts as a dust shield
Hell it's been so long I really don't remember even though I've done this a few times. I do know I put it together just the way it came off. Actually if you look at my writing I think I had it right. Because I have "Seal (inner), but then state outer (I highlighted in red). I just need to correct the above grammer error in red right? Think I just mixed it up when writing the instructions.

Can we confirm so I can make the change in the post?

Thanks
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Old 12-10-2007, 11:22 AM   #317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotrodguru View Post
Hell it's been so long I really don't remember even though I've done this a few times. I do know I put it together just the way it came off. Actually if you look at my writing I think I had it right. Because I have "Seal (inner), but then state outer (I highlighted in red). I just need to correct the above grammer error in red right? Think I just mixed it up when writing the instructions.

Can we confirm so I can make the change in the post?

Thanks
It should read:
Quote:
4. Seal (inner), the seal with the lip is the inner seal, lip goes pointing towards the axle and acts as a dust shield
-Bryce
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Old 12-10-2007, 11:58 AM   #318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotrodguru View Post
Hell it's been so long I really don't remember even though I've done this a few times. I do know I put it together just the way it came off. Actually if you look at my writing I think I had it right. Because I have "Seal (inner), but then state outer (I highlighted in red). I just need to correct the above grammer error in red right? Think I just mixed it up when writing the instructions.

Can we confirm so I can make the change in the post?

Thanks
You probably meant that it's the outer of the two inner seals, meaning it's loser to the outside of the knuckle eventhough it's more inner relative to the car. Does that make sense? It does to me...

I'm 100% not sure how it is in the front, since I haven't taken that apart, but I believe the OP was correct saying that the dust boot part of that seal should go in facing the wheel. My question re- the rear http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1399054
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Old 12-10-2007, 11:05 PM   #319
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kainam00 View Post
You probably meant that it's the outer of the two inner seals, meaning it's loser to the outside of the knuckle eventhough it's more inner relative to the car. Does that make sense? It does to me...
I'm not sure what you're talking about, but I've only ever seen one inner seal on a front wheel bearing. Maybe the rears have two inner seals(?).

I'll try hotlinking a picture, it may not work.



-Bryce
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Old 12-13-2007, 01:17 PM   #320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanKorte View Post
Hi there. I've got an '01 Forester with 119k miles and at least one shot wheel bearing. I think it's on the rear drivers side, i'm going to get that confirmed by my mechanic.

I've read on this and other sites that I want to get a Legacy replacement for it, but does it matter what model year Legacy the bearings are from? or are they all the same?

Also, would any of you happen to know the part numbers and rough costs for ALL parts needed for this servicing? (include any appropriate seals, etc). Thanks very much for your help!

Dan

PS- I read that step by step (with photo) wheel bearing repair post from a couple years ago. Would that apply to my Forester as well? I can print it off and give it to my mechanic. Thanks!

Hey I have a 01' Forrester that has 118K and the left rear driver's side bearing went out and my name is Dan. LOL too funny.

On another note I used this techique.

http://rs.pmgz.net/?page_id=17

It cost me less then 20 bucks for the parts. On his site he says to use good wood to use as a brace. I just used the handle from the slide hammer on the rod and it worked like a charm. The PVC press is really cool. a couple things I found out was that :
A. The slide hammer bearing removal slide hammer attachment does not work!
B. Do not use a torque wrench to screw in the nuts on the 2 FT shaft use a wrench , it turns pretty easy.
C. It took me 6 hrs to do , I can prolly do it in 4 now that I got over my fear of doing something wrong. (However, My bearing was not attached to the spindle when it came out so I think I may have been lucky there.)
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Old 12-13-2007, 01:58 PM   #321
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Originally Posted by Carnot View Post
I'm not sure what you're talking about, but I've only ever seen one inner seal on a front wheel bearing. Maybe the rears have two inner seals(?).

I'll try hotlinking a picture, it may not work.



-Bryce
The rear has two on the inside and one on the outside.
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Old 12-13-2007, 04:28 PM   #322
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eleven22 View Post
It cost me less then 20 bucks for the parts. On his site he says to use good wood to use as a brace. I just used the handle from the slide hammer on the rod and it worked like a charm. The PVC press is really cool. a couple things I found out was that :
A. The slide hammer bearing removal slide hammer attachment does not work!
B. Do not use a torque wrench to screw in the nuts on the 2 FT shaft use a wrench , it turns pretty easy.
C. It took me 6 hrs to do , I can prolly do it in 4 now that I got over my fear of doing something wrong. (However, My bearing was not attached to the spindle when it came out so I think I may have been lucky there.)
Some good feedback there! Thanks!

A - Ageed! The slide hammer is pretty useless for anything but removing the hub. The second time I did it, it even came with a hub adapted, but it was too big for my 5x100 bolt pattern, and even for the 5x114 STI hub I had laying around... crazy.
B - Yes! 21mm or so wrench will do the trick. I used a 1" one since I didn't have metrics that big.

Using something metal as a brace is a good idea as well, I used my aluminum block the second time around. Anything sturdier than a 2x4 will work.

Glad to heard that my page is helping people out
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Old 12-13-2007, 07:40 PM   #323
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The rear has two on the inside and one on the outside.
yep...

#14 and 15...





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Old 12-14-2007, 03:10 AM   #324
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I'm about to replace the front wheel bearings on my 2.5 rs. So to clarify does the front have 1 or 2 inner seals. So far I have 1 hub, 1 bearing, 1 outer seal, and 1 inner seal.
Thanks
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Old 12-14-2007, 10:38 AM   #325
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That 14mm horizontal hub bolt that is listed as being "a tad bit easier..." (above the lower ball joint) seems to be problematic for a lot of preza's. A buddy of mine has been a local Subaru dealer mechanic for years now and he warned me about how delicate it is. None the less, I managed to break the darn thing. Just hoping that no one else out there makes the same mistake! Use vise grips on the bottom of the ball joint, and a SMALL chisel to go through that gap in the top. Use penetrating oil. Go slow, or get ready to buy a new hub.
Rock on, gear heads.
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