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09-16-2006, 09:06 AM | #1 |
Former Vendor
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Element Tuning Hydramist Official Q&A
The Element Hydramist was developed from the beginning to be the ultimate water/methanol injection with uncompromised performance, control, and safety. The Hydramist is a fully integrated water/methanol injection solution controlled via the Hydra EMS. This system allows full 3D mapping of water flow based on load and rpm, automatic map switching, and unparalleled protection never seen before in any water/methanol injection system. When we first set out to develop a water/methanol injection system we discovered very quickly the limitations of most universal systems in that they rarely offered precise control over the injection or the failsafe mechanisms were insufficient at protecting the engine when failure occurred. To help develop a superior system for the Hydra EMS Element Tuning worked with the industry leader in water/methanol injection systems, Aquamist. I'll continued to add to this first post as time permits. Here is the Hydramist Installation Guide: http://www.elementtuning.com/Hydrami...amistguide.htm Thanks, Phil www.elementtuning.com Last edited by Element Tuning; 11-30-2006 at 02:14 PM. Reason: Edit installation guide link |
09-16-2006, 09:09 AM | #2 |
Former Vendor
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Setting Up Your Element Hydra EMS for Hydramist Tuning
Assign 3D PWM Map 11 as your Hydramist HSV map. This map is load vs. RPM and the values denote duty cycle of the HSV for a given boost and rpm. The load and rpm sites are 0% to 100% and signify the minimum and maximum range in your fuel map. So if the greatest boost level in your fuel and spark maps are 31 PSI then the 100% load site = 31 psi. Element Tuning customers can be provided with this map.
Caution! When a boost and rpm level is reached in this map and the HSV has a duty cycle higher than 10% this will automatically activate the Hydramist pump. If within 2 seconds the Hydramist Water Flow sensor does not register water flow on the Hydramist DDS3 gauge the system will automatically revert back to the regular fuel and spark maps in the Hydra EMS. While the Hydramist is active fueling is controlled by the Fuel Auxiliary Trim Map. This map is a function of the main fuel map. At the desired boost and rpm point you will use this map to subtract fuel from your main fuel map. Element Tuning customers can be provided with this map. Caution! It's important to reduce fuel in this map only when water flow is realized. So if your Hydramist turns on at 10 psi do not remove fuel until after 10 psi. This map shows 2 degrees of timing added into the idle areas. This was used just for testing to ensure the map switching operation was functional. While the Hydramist is active ignition timing is controlled by the Spark Auxiliary Trim Map. This map is a function of the main spark map. At the desired boost and rpm point you will use this map to add ignition timing to your main spark map. Element Tuning customers can be provided with this map. Caution! It's important to add ignition timing into this map only when water flow is realized. So if your Hydramist turns on at 10 psi do not add ignition timing until after 10 psi. This map shows 2 degrees of timing added into the idle areas. This was used just for testing to ensure the map switching operation was functional. To activate your Hydramist system you must press (red) the "on" button. When "on" the Hydramist is active and your Auxiliary Maps are enabled. If within 2 seconds of your HSV injecting water flow is not realized then the Hydra will revert to the standard fuel and spark maps. When the Hydramist DDS3 Diplay Gauge is "off" the Hydra reverts to the standard fuel and spark maps. W.Injection = Display's when system is on Water Level = Illuminates when water level is low. Pump will be turned off Flow = Shows flow from water flow sensor B = Illuminates when Hydra Auxiliary Maps are enabled SC = Adjusts the range of flow display WL = Water flow low fault WH = Water flow high fault Thanks, Phil www.elementtuning.com |
09-16-2006, 09:32 AM | #3 |
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Phil,
I'm mounting my Jazz fuel cell in the upper passenger corner as high as possible. Should I hold it down with some straps? Anything else better suited? The oultet of the pump has to be below the outlet of the water tank, correct? Thanks, Eric |
09-16-2006, 09:51 AM | #4 |
Former Vendor
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Yes you will need to secure that tank well because once it has a gallon of fluid it will be heavy. You should mount the pump below or inline with the tank's outlet for optimal performance and to reduce the chances of sucking air into the pump.
Thanks, Phil www.elementtuning.com |
09-17-2006, 09:32 AM | #5 | |
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Quote:
How did you secure your tank Jazz fuel cell on your previous car? I was thinnking that I would create a base for the fuel cell to elevate it off the floor of the trunk by about 4 inches so that it is slightly above the outlet of the pump. Then I was going to use straps to secure it in place. I am waiting on a GT-Spec trunk cage....that will make it easier to strap it down. One Q on the pump mounting (and this may be in the instructions but I want to clarify): Should the outlet side of the pump be facing upwards or downwards when mounted on its side to the passenger rear fender well? Thanks for the help! - Eric Last edited by ejh25; 09-17-2006 at 01:36 PM. |
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09-27-2006, 09:14 AM | #6 | |
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Quote:
Thanks, Phil www.elementtuning.com |
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09-27-2006, 09:46 AM | #7 | |
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Awesome!!! Thanks Phil. You wouldn't still happen to have that bracket? I'll buy it from you! - Eric |
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09-27-2006, 09:57 AM | #8 |
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Phil, The silicone line running from the top nozzle on the tank, what is its purpose? Venting? Where does it run to? Thanks, Eric |
09-27-2006, 10:41 AM | #9 | ||
Former Vendor
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Quote:
Quote:
Thanks, Phil www.elementtuning.com |
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09-16-2006, 12:05 PM | #10 |
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How big is the gauge that comes with this kit?
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09-18-2006, 10:51 PM | #11 |
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09-18-2006, 10:52 PM | #12 |
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Phil,
Is this a good place for pump mounting? And this is where you mounted your tank, correct? |
09-18-2006, 10:56 PM | #13 |
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Jets Mounted on the underside of the FMIC intake pipe
I used the .9mm and 1.0mm jets and mounted them on the underside of the intake pipe....then I wrapped the pipe with a reflective blanket.
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09-19-2006, 12:47 AM | #14 |
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09-19-2006, 04:18 AM | #15 |
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Is it possible for you to rotate the 5-port manifold so that the square face is fitting into the pump, otherwise the supporting bracket will not fit properly. Last edited by Aquamist; 09-19-2006 at 04:39 AM. |
09-20-2006, 12:56 PM | #16 |
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02-11-2007, 01:29 PM | #17 | |
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Quote:
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09-16-2006, 12:30 PM | #18 | |
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Quote:
also phil what kind of #'s are you seeing with your almost stock 06 STi+hydra+hydramist?? Last edited by THE-95-STi; 09-16-2006 at 12:36 PM. |
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09-16-2006, 04:34 PM | #19 |
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With regards to the fuel level sensor, the hole that needs to be drilled is 22mm, correct?
Will a 7/8" hole saw be sufficient for that or do I need a 22mm bit? Thanks, Eric |
09-16-2006, 05:10 PM | #20 |
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The hole size should 22mm +/- 0.5mm.
3/4"(19.05mm) is a bit on the small side. You can however use a taped reamer to enlarge it. Suggest using a hand reamer or a machine reamer at a slow speed. Please ensure finished hole is burred free. |
09-17-2006, 09:28 AM | #21 | |
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Quote:
Thanks....I will ensure that the hole is burr free. I could use a dremel as a reamer, correct? Your saying 3/4" is too small but I could ream it out? Is a 7/8" hole too big? 7/8" = .875" 22mm = .866" 22.5mm = .886" Shouldn't the 7/8" hole work? Should I use a drill bit instead of a hole saw? Thanks, Eric Last edited by ejh25; 09-17-2006 at 02:07 PM. |
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02-11-2007, 01:16 PM | #22 |
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(Regarding tapping the tank for the level sensor and the outlet fittings)
FWIW, I did mine 3/4" and it was fine as well. Seemed perfectly snug in fact. |
09-17-2006, 09:26 PM | #23 | |
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Quote:
I ended up using a 3/4" drill bit. That was actually plenty big. I used a dremel to smooth things out and then some coarse sandpaper and then some fine sandpaper to ensure that there were no burrs. Thanks, Eric Last edited by ejh25; 09-17-2006 at 10:25 PM. |
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09-18-2006, 05:22 AM | #24 |
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Very concise tank installation images. I see that you have put a great deal of effort to do things properly. Great post.
I don't know what the final hole size is, it looked a well-fit set up. I can see some burrs on the inside edge of the hole, if this can be cleared, it will help. Without a flat surface the rubber seal will not seal properly. I can see the outside seal restes on burr-free surface. Iwoudl be nice if both seal is work at its best. More importantly, rotate the sensor until the moulded arrow points unwards. See picture below: Last edited by Aquamist; 09-18-2006 at 05:27 AM. |
09-18-2006, 08:38 AM | #25 | |
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Quote:
I will take care of the burrs on the inside as well as rotating the sensor so that it works properly. Thanks, Eric |
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