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01-20-2013, 10:41 PM | #5476 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 110078
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Long Island N.Y.
Vehicle:02 Bugeye JDM STi OBP BLACK |
I've already driven my 02 wrx wagon over 4,000 miles since the ej207 swap, the miles really pile on fast been my daily driver. I can honestly now answer the original poster question on this thread. Do I regret not having built a 2.5 instead of going with an ej207 ? No i don't, I definitely made the right choice. With the help from people here ( you know who you are that helped me) and the swap process I've learned a great deal. Thank you very much, my swap is a complete success. My bugeye is an absolute pleasure to drive, I look forward to it every day. My next ej207 swap will be when the time comes to replace the engine on my 05 Saab 92x aero, my saabaru.
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01-20-2013, 11:45 PM | #5477 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 292945
Join Date: Aug 2011
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Washington
Vehicle:2017 STI Crystal White Pearl |
i finished my swap today. i have the tgv circuit open codes as expected but when i started to drive i got a p0171 lean bank 1. i got the code under load doing about 50mph so im assuming MAF sensor?
BTW i feel a huge difference in the car. i dont have ACVS hooked up as im running the usdm ecu and its amazingly responsive and way more throaty. |
01-21-2013, 12:13 AM | #5478 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 172698
Join Date: Feb 2008
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Des Moines, IA
Vehicle:11 STi BW 8374 E85 02 v8 Spec C E85 |
Quote:
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01-21-2013, 12:58 PM | #5479 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 82745
Join Date: Mar 2005
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: So Cal
Vehicle:2005 Subaru STI 2003 EJ207 S204 Wagon |
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01-21-2013, 07:11 PM | #5480 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 292823
Join Date: Aug 2011
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: Gardena/Riverside
Vehicle:Fuji Factory Bugeye |
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01-21-2013, 07:12 PM | #5481 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 292823
Join Date: Aug 2011
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: Gardena/Riverside
Vehicle:Fuji Factory Bugeye |
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01-21-2013, 07:26 PM | #5482 |
Former Vendor
Member#: 178047
Join Date: Apr 2008
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: AZ
Vehicle:02 WRX STI Spec C Black |
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01-21-2013, 07:45 PM | #5483 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 86107
Join Date: Apr 2005
Chapter/Region:
E. Canada
Location: 10% REAL FRUIT JUICE
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01-21-2013, 11:30 PM | #5484 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 110078
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Long Island N.Y.
Vehicle:02 Bugeye JDM STi OBP BLACK |
It's a looker Mr.Wang, congrats.
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01-22-2013, 12:42 AM | #5485 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 292823
Join Date: Aug 2011
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: Gardena/Riverside
Vehicle:Fuji Factory Bugeye |
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01-22-2013, 07:47 AM | #5486 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 79643
Join Date: Jan 2005
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: The internet
Vehicle:2021 STI TE Terminal black pearl |
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01-22-2013, 03:27 PM | #5487 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 46135
Join Date: Oct 2003
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:19 GLA45 AMG C63 AMG |
So, the Bugeye was never designed for the Spec C oil radiator.
As a result, to route the oil conduits, you have to cut into the headlight bracket, to make room for them. I'm now switching to JDM HID. I'm hoping that by this time (late 2002), they were starting to have thoughts and doubts that an oil conduit will...one day..pass by and these brackets have room for the conduits. If not, I will have to make room. Of course, the S202 did have steel braided oil hoses. But odds that someone has an actual photo of the OEM routing of those hoses and how they cleared behind the headlight are small. Actually, since the S202 did have the HID, this would seem to indicate that they would have had to make room for the hoses in all the HID lights, otherwise you'd have S202-only headlights.. Then again, maybe those hoses take a different route. |
01-22-2013, 05:01 PM | #5488 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 59837
Join Date: Apr 2004
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Nor Cal
Vehicle:2004 Spec-C Type RA What MAF? -Speed Density! |
The OEM setup uses hardlines to go through the headlights on the pics I have seen of the spec-c setup. It is much easier to go around the AC condensor and radiator. I just redid mine this past weekend and went this route. Some day I might step up to stainless lines but this works well as an alternatives.
Mine OEM, PS cooler loop on top, engine cooler on bottom Last edited by lukeskywrx; 01-22-2013 at 05:08 PM. |
01-22-2013, 05:21 PM | #5489 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 120273
Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: AZ
Vehicle:06 WRBWRXWGN Now with 100% more Spec-C |
I am running hard lines from the cooler around the AC condenser. From there I will run some small sections of soft line to the motor. Though, like everything I try to do on this car, I'm sure this will fail in some way and leave me stranded by the side of the road. I'm sure of it.
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01-22-2013, 07:40 PM | #5490 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 46135
Join Date: Oct 2003
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:19 GLA45 AMG C63 AMG |
Thanks for the photos and info guys.
Turns out that the brakets of the "new" lights are iffy anyway , so I won't feel bad. The way I see it, it is more important (and difficult) to get an oil cooler/radiator system that you can trust, than keep the resale value of HID lights. I thought so much about which way to go, at the time when I decided about oil cooling, I gave myself not just one headache. Some thoughts: -steel braided tubes look good, but hide the condition of the tubing underneath. A proper rubber compound tube is more "honest" -To crimp the AN fittings on the braided tube, I feel I'd have to receive some taining and practice with non-critical applications, before I graduate to the oil radiator. This leaves machine crimped braided hoses, a smaller category of vendors. Mock-up of the route becomes very important. -In all honesty, the braided tubes should touch...nothing. Except for special guide fittings. -This is why a conduit riser is safer, it's allowed to touch things and it carefully separates the flex rubber sections, so that they touch nothing. And I'm sorry, but I could continue writing for a long time about this. I think that after 2 years I'm entitled to say that I have a reliable system, except I don't have track time with it. I'll keep it unchanged and modify the lights.. Last edited by Vlad; 01-22-2013 at 07:57 PM. |
01-24-2013, 12:05 PM | #5491 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 120057
Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: *outskirts of motor city*
Vehicle:2018 WRX (base) 6spd WRB |
So hypothetically, a
JDM v7 207 with 6 spd (wrx swapped) vs USDM 04-06 STI lines up next to each other, both are "stage 2/full exhaust and tune" Same mods and driver Which car is going to be faster/pull ahead? Im just curious as to what car would be faster.... |
01-24-2013, 12:09 PM | #5492 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 6886
Join Date: May 2001
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Vehicle:MY01 EJ207 HTA35r AVCS ON! |
please take the hypothetical drag racing scenarios elsewhere
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01-24-2013, 12:13 PM | #5493 |
Former Vendor
Member#: 178047
Join Date: Apr 2008
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: AZ
Vehicle:02 WRX STI Spec C Black |
Dan. The thread and most of the forum is gone man. There is no way to fight it anymore..
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01-24-2013, 12:23 PM | #5494 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 86107
Join Date: Apr 2005
Chapter/Region:
E. Canada
Location: 10% REAL FRUIT JUICE
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01-24-2013, 12:37 PM | #5495 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 120273
Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: AZ
Vehicle:06 WRBWRXWGN Now with 100% more Spec-C |
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01-24-2013, 12:38 PM | #5496 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 6886
Join Date: May 2001
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Vehicle:MY01 EJ207 HTA35r AVCS ON! |
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01-24-2013, 12:56 PM | #5497 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 271412
Join Date: Jan 2011
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: avoca pa
Vehicle:05 ej207 wrx wagon wrb |
I think the Jdm would be faster. Should be close though
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01-25-2013, 01:34 AM | #5498 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 215927
Join Date: Jul 2009
Chapter/Region:
International
Location: Singapore
Vehicle:05 JDM Swapped V8 Spec C EJ207 |
Hi just swapped a v8 spec C 207 into my 05 Euro wrx. Ran into abit of wiring problems with the Jdm ECU. Apparently it's not the same as the swap into the USDM cars. Car won't start with the Jdm ECU (no CEL) even with both the IA performance bulkhead harness and wiring kits installed. Anyone have access to the Jdm ECU pinout diagram? Much appreciated.
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01-25-2013, 02:11 AM | #5499 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 321805
Join Date: May 2012
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: St. Louis
Vehicle:2002 Jdm v9 STI Blue |
Quote:
hi it sounds like you've ran into a common problem and that is that the ecu that came with your jdm motor is immobilized. the common solution is to purchase a non immobilized ecu. you well probably notice that when you turn the car on you will not hear the fuel pump prime and the motor well not even attempt to turn over. another solution is to have your key and immobilizer synced to the new ecu. not sure on the cost of this |
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01-25-2013, 11:53 AM | #5500 | |
Former Vendor
Member#: 178047
Join Date: Apr 2008
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: AZ
Vehicle:02 WRX STI Spec C Black |
Quote:
What is the code on the top cover of the ECU? If your 05 euro has the Blow by connector, unplug it, It will fault the JDM ecu as it does not use that sensor. Also. If your engine has the charge air temp sensor, Unplug that, The 05 wiring does not route that sensor to the ecu correctly and it will fault the ecu. Some had the sensor and some did not. You state its a spec C, However, Most Spec C's are fake with fake stickers so the import/export people can get more money from you for the engine. V8's did not have immobilizer, This would be an issue if you had a V9 or later ecu. Showing me what ecu you have will help. C |
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