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Old 07-27-2013, 04:42 PM   #226
dstroy
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The diode is to help protect the SSR gate from reverse current. And unless you're planning on running something that draws more than 50ish amps DCCD pro offers a product that will run them for a comparable price. Jockeygolfs has one, you could ask him about it.
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Old 07-27-2013, 05:36 PM   #227
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I have two for future expansion. Working so far. Customer support is top notch too.
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Old 09-11-2013, 02:08 PM   #228
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If I may, I am actually in Subaru school right now (on lunch currently) and we were JUST talking about the 3 speed fuel pump circuit and how it works. Now I haven't read the whole thread so if I am repeating anything -Disregard. If not, hope this helps.

It seems that it is controlling Pump duty cycle via ground.

The circuit goes like this:




and then to modify it and have it work like factory it will go like this:



**I forgot to draw something on there... where the ground is coming out of the FPC, I would add a thicker ground to chassis to support the higher Voltage being transmitted.

Hope this helps!
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Old 09-11-2013, 06:29 PM   #229
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Also, that scribble mark in the middle of the fuel pump line isn't a loop, it's just a scribble to break the contact (i didn't redraw, just modified my first drawing)
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Old 09-12-2013, 02:16 PM   #230
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Trying to wire up my rats nest of my full blown setup.
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Old 09-12-2013, 02:45 PM   #231
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Here i redrew it a little maybe it's more clear here
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Old 09-12-2013, 06:22 PM   #232
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I am lost now. I have read and reread this thread 10 times. I was sold on the relay idea and grounding back through the stock FCU.




Now I am wondering why the Fuelpro unit? why both??? Is it necessary?

Also since I am using 2 dw200 pumps in the full blown hanger hobbs switch for the second pump? wire them both together like a single pump?

like this:


Last edited by medamullet; 09-12-2013 at 07:02 PM.
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Old 09-12-2013, 06:30 PM   #233
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It is all how you use your car. If it is a daily you may want the Fuelpro or some sort of way to run your pump at different loads. If it is dedicated race car then 100% flow might be good enough and you may swap the pump regularly. These pumps are not really meant to run 100% all the time. The Fuelpro will act similar to the stock FPC. The issue with the stock FPC is that it is assumed it cannot handle the amps required by a walbro 465. At about 80 psi the pump draws about 20 amps. The Fuelpro can run up to 50 amps I believe. A stock pump only draws about 13.5 amps. These are all ballpark figures. I don't think you want to ground back to the stock FPC if you plan to run this pump. You will not get the flow that is needed by this pump.
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Old 09-12-2013, 07:29 PM   #234
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I like the method brazzl posted. I've read most of the thread so far. I really don't want to run my pump 100% so that method using the factory controller looks good. Is that how most people are running their setups with not doing 100%?
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Old 09-12-2013, 07:32 PM   #235
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Problem with factory FPC is that it cannot handle the additional amps required to run the walbro 465 correctly.
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Old 09-12-2013, 08:26 PM   #236
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I'm not running a walbro 465 I am running 2 dw200 pumps. Wired directly to the battery like my 2nd drawing shows using the stock controller.
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Old 09-12-2013, 08:31 PM   #237
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I'm no electrical engineer so I'm not sure what two DW's would need. Check the amp requirements at the fuel pressure you are desiring. The stock FPC will limit what the pump/pumps can draw.
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Old 09-12-2013, 08:43 PM   #238
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Dw website says the dw200 only draws 12.7 amps at 100 psi. (25.4 for 2 pumps) so probably 22 amps total for 2 pumps realistic for my setup. With the hobbs switch only switching on at 15psi so 99% of the time only 1 pump will be running.

I'm not arguing against the fuelpro I am more than willing to buy it if its for me. I just like to "talk it out"

My car is definately a dd from now on. I can't afford to wreck it or fix it any more from track use.
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Old 09-12-2013, 08:45 PM   #239
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Yeah I know. I'm not arguing. I like to see people experiment etc. if it works great. We all learn from it.
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Old 09-12-2013, 08:50 PM   #240
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Even if you need 22 amps for only a small period of time the stock FPC might not be able to give it to you. Give it a try though I may be wrong. Chassis ground and or aftermarket FPC seem to be the only way it works for me.
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Old 09-12-2013, 09:07 PM   #241
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Hmmm ok. Maybe I will just pull the whole stock unit out and replace it. Well I'm going to wire it up and get my car started and running the way i drew the picture. Then worry about it if I run out of fuel. It's been a long 2 years. I'm tired of working on this car.
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Old 09-12-2013, 10:00 PM   #242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jockeygolfs View Post
Problem with factory FPC is that it cannot handle the additional amps required to run the walbro 465 correctly.
The setup I posted addresses this issue. The FPC is still able to modulate duty cycles via ground. The extra amperage is sent right to the pump, not the FPC.
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Old 09-12-2013, 10:01 PM   #243
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I'll have to study that some.
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Old 09-12-2013, 10:01 PM   #244
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So basically, you wont have a code, you wont burn the FPC, and you will retain the three speed cycles of the pump. and also the priming feature.
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Old 09-12-2013, 10:04 PM   #245
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Please test this and report back.
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Old 09-12-2013, 10:10 PM   #246
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I have other things to take care of on my car before I get to this particular part (just put a motor i built in and finishing up on it to get it started and broken in, so the pump wont be going in right away). Like I said, we were just going through all of this while I was up at the Subaru training center for my Fuel/Emissions class. The problem with the NF image that was just posted a couple posts ago is that the FPC PWM is now modulating the relay and not the pump. The relay is only an "on/off" deal... so it isn't actually changing duty cycles. ALSO I believe with this setup since the duty ratios will be adjusted it will also assist in not over running the stock FPR
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Old 09-12-2013, 10:13 PM   #247
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Right. Cool. But until you actually try it we don't know. It will be awesome if you are right though.
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Old 09-12-2013, 10:14 PM   #248
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I hear you. I encourage someone to give this a shot so results/reports can be had sooner than I will be able to provide a real result.
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Old 09-12-2013, 10:17 PM   #249
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As far as applying my method to the double pumper.... Medamullet, just off the top of my head I dont see why it wouldn't work to just apply the method to the primary pump and then hard wire the second pump with a separate relay and hobbs switch directly from the battery. completely seprate from the primary--when the second pump is kicking in it's for high demand so it will be full duty anyway.
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Old 09-12-2013, 10:18 PM   #250
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I imagine you will want to come up with some sort of failsafe routing though incase the one pump fails it will kill the other pump so your car just dies off rather than leaning out.
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