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Old 07-25-2017, 01:29 PM   #226
JarHarms
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Attempting to muster the mental strength to update the rest of these photos. It almost seems pointless since so much forum knowledge has just evaporated with the photos.
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Old 07-25-2017, 01:36 PM   #227
KeatonHo
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I will be the first to tell you that many others will benefit from you updating and changing over the pictures. Though many other parts of the forum have been lost, yours doesn't have to be that way, especially with the craftsmanship of your car.
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Old 07-25-2017, 01:46 PM   #228
JarHarms
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I know, I know, I will do it when I get some down time at work. Dang it is painful though. Then my luck Imgur will end up pulling the same shenanigans. Self hosting is so not in my wheel house so I'm not even looking into that. I just ordered the rest of the Spec-C oil cooler parts and my DCCD rebuild kit. Might as well get those here prior to the winter "pull the 6MT yet again" project.

Just typing down some thoughts for fuel system changes to support an eventual FF conversion. I'm not looking for hp levels that would require aftermarket rails and hard lines...I hope. I really do not want to go that route.
STI pump hanger - try to retain sloshbox, should fit fine in 2006 WRX tank
Radium venturi jet pump
Remove in-tank filter
Gates 5/16" SAE 30R10 submersible hose (#27093)
Gates 1/4" SAE 30R10 hose
ABA SS fuel line clamps or SS oeitiker clamps
320lph fuel pump [AEM 50-1200]
Detschwerks pre-strainer sock - AEM sock does not fit sloshbox, current DW sock fits more like an OEM sock and tightly on aftermarket pump inlets.
battery to pump hardwire with relay trigger from FPC
oem tank -to- firewall feed line
Gates 5/16" MPI fuel hose or Goodridge -6AN lines
SS oetiker clamps
PTFE shrink tube end coverings
Vibrant hose barb to AN adapter
Primary filter [F750]
homebrew fuel pressure kit - AEM sender, wired into RHS TGV
Aftermarket rails
ID 1300 injectors
adj fuel pressure regulator [Radium 20-0265]
COBB ethanol% kit - wired into LHS TGV, probably could have used a less expensive kit
oem firewall -to- tank return line
(obviously CCF FF map adjustments)

Last edited by JarHarms; 03-06-2018 at 10:34 AM.
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Old 08-14-2017, 09:06 AM   #229
JarHarms
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After more driving along with the Sony XAV-AX100, I feel it is a pretty solid headunit for my needs. My main gripe (as I expected) is the single USB port. If it only had two ports then I could use a thumb drive loaded with music and keep my phone plugged in for charging. I know it was geared around music streaming but...that's not always possible. Total fail on Sony's part here.

Finishing up home projects and sell off some leftover parts before summer ends. Then probably mentally prep for removing the 6MT to inspect that center diff.
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Old 08-17-2017, 08:45 PM   #230
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I did get around to calculating some gear determination values based on my specific setup (6MT swap, usual gear set, tire OD) and got [9124.20] [5837.25] [4130.84] [3151.74] [2483.47]. ATR gear determination label is reflash only, no quick realtime flashes would do.


Before. Original 2006 WRX 5MT settings.


After. Just ran some test/datalogs of the existing determinations (poor indication) and these new values (improved indication). So far so good, that gear inaccuracy has been bothering my OCD for a longtime now.

Last edited by JarHarms; 08-20-2019 at 09:59 AM.
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Old 08-19-2017, 11:25 AM   #231
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I updated post #157 (page7).
I test fitted some parts on a mockup SOHC engine this morning. Killer B header (v1) and the Spec-C oil cooler header/pipes have enough clearance to play well with each other. Also have just enough room for the oil filters I use (slightly taller).

Last edited by JarHarms; 09-15-2017 at 09:13 AM.
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Old 08-22-2017, 10:13 PM   #232
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Two sub-projects for this month are 1)Fuel Pressure (FP) kit feedback into CCF RHS TGV position signal and 2)AEM UEGO output feedback into CCF Rear O2 signal. Getting these working out and integrated into datalogging.

Initially I was to order COBB's fuel pressure kit but thinking I can put together exactly what I want for the same price...and their install and CCF instructions have some inconsistencies.
-Fuel line adapter - Found a few alternatives to the COBB #300100 5/16" (8mm) fuel line adapter. NX #16190 cost more without any advantage, Nitrous Outlet #00-01811-5/16 cost more without any advantage, eBay Chinese 5/16" adapter was cheap but not willing to risk it, CFM #5-0045 was slightly less and had a cool built in release but the stem is really short and thought difficult to remove fuel line later. In the end I will probably just order COBB #300100 and be done with it.
-FP mechanical gauge - Just to verify against the FP sender readings then remove later on. Probably Turbosmart since it's inexpensive and relatively dependable.
-FP sender - COBB's kit uses uses the Autometer #2246 100psig sender. Not that this sender is bad or anything. I just don't do Autometer. So I would rather use AEM #30-2130-100 100psig sender. At least AEM provides specifications.
-FP sender connector with terminals - AEM #30-2130-100 includes these parts and must be crimped/assembled.
-Harness wire/braid/shrink - I will figure these out once initial parts arrive.
-Sumitomo 3way TGV receptacle "socket" connector with terminals - They are harder to locate but I think I found a place to get one. If that does not work out I will just switch to a different Sumitomo plug/socket connector set.


===============

AEM UEGO #30-4110 kit will be going into the stock ashtray location. The little door still works so I can block out the LED dancing when I don't need to see it. Switched to the lambda faceplate and adjusted the rear dial to lambda operation. Not really sure why you would use AFR over lambda anyways. Not certain if the COBB CCF can work with lambda values, so I might have to run AFR output. Will check and update.
-6way connector set ordered to add a split in the UEGO sensor harness near the firewall. My UEGO sensor is mounted at end of the downpipe.
-1way connector set ordered to connect the UEGO 0-5v output into the factory rear O2 signal circuit near the fire wall.
-Probably some MAP edits to make when dropping the factory rear O2 signal. I suspect DTC mask(s) and learn table edit(s).

Last edited by JarHarms; 09-05-2017 at 04:09 PM.
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Old 09-05-2017, 04:16 PM   #233
JarHarms
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Slowly fixing photo links while I wait on parts to come in. Got a few more posts finished up.
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Old 09-06-2017, 06:26 PM   #234
FadedMonkey1981
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cars looks sick!
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Old 09-06-2017, 08:37 PM   #235
MonsooSTi
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Nice!
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Old 09-15-2017, 09:18 AM   #236
JarHarms
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Had time to look over the COBB E% sensor kit. I'll end up diving more into it and getting some photos later. Let's get my irritations out of the way first. Yea, I'm super picky, but considering what it cost I feel justified:
-My pre-review of the instruction PDF on their site...well bluntly it needs a good deal of work and could be misleading to some. It sucks, there I said it.
-Why the heck doesn't any of the distributors (COBB has it up now but I swear it was not there a few weeks ago) post photos of what is actually in the kit? Or at least a complete parts listing would be helpful. There is 3' of Continental 5/16" 30R9 hose in there. There are seven 13-15mm fuel line clamps in there too. Don't get me wrong, extra parts are good but at least let us know about them dang it.
-Why use fancy black foam then place some components in bubble bags or part bags but you leave the seven hose clamps loose. That's great since they float around in the box and scratch the "fancy" potted module all up. I mean really...make it 99 feet and stop at the last foot? WTF
-Obviously they developed this on modified cars. Thanks for the snazzy bracket that conflicts with the AC hose. Yea it could be bent downwards slightly but really?


-WHAT is the other bracket for? That's not even in the instructions. My guess is an alternate mounting plate that there are not photos or info provided. I asked them and the response was sub-par and not very helpful. A quick look in the engine bay and I confirmed it fits lower on the LHS tower. Basically only works if you have the air pump removed and that lower connection will take heck-of-an angled fitting. I bet it is for earlier STIs that did not get the awesome 2nd air system.


OK so back to normal:
-The sensor appears to be a Continental/GM #13577429 (~$50 sensor), 400 lph flow rate, I wonder if COBB can read the negative PW to turn into a Fuel Temp signal? My guess is that that feature is not built into their fancy potted module.
-The Continental hose is decent stuff, I prefer Gates MPI 30R14 hose due to lower permeability and higher working pressure. So since that is what I already sourced, Gates is what I will be using.
-The hose clamps are thankfully the correct type for this sort of work. They are zinc plates jobs so I'll end up using ABA/Norma SS fuel hose clamps or oetiker clamps instead.
-I hope the harness leads are sufficient for routing. I will be able to comment more about that after some mock-ups.
-At least the E% sensor connection appears to be a genuine Delphi connector, thanks for omitting the seal lock though . The rest appear to be knockoffs of the original Sumitomo TS 090 (2.3mm) connectors. RearO2 sensor (6188-0517) and RearO2 harness (6189-0629). They will probably all work fine.
-Since I'm sticking to oem type fuel lines right now, I do like the SAE fuel connectors included. Not sure who's fitting those are so far searching comes up with Chinese sources. Ehh OK. No indication in their kit/instructions on what lock color means or which fitting is what. Just here's a bag full of stuff, good luck.
two white SAE 5/16" to 5/16" barb straits
one blue SAE 5/16" to 5/16" barb 90deg elbow
two blue SAE 3/8" to 5/16" barb 90deg elbows
one blue SAE 3/8" to 5/16" barb strait

-Also why is the single blue 3/8 to 5/16 strait missing the o-ring (even in COBBs photos it's missing)?


Rest of my time has been spent parts sourcing, selling off leftover parts, and trying to figure out what I'm replacing the fuel filter with. I'm working with limited space as usual. Plan A is an ID F750 possibly with Jiffy-tite connectors. Plan B is a usual in-line filter...but those are not my preference. Have been talking a lot to some people I work with that have other cars running E85 for quite awhile now. Just learning what I can before I'm knee deep into it.

Last edited by JarHarms; 01-29-2018 at 09:55 PM.
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Old 09-20-2017, 09:48 AM   #237
JarHarms
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While I am waiting for the fuel filter and some Sumitomo connectors to arrive; I had some time to play around with the Access Tuner Race (ATR) Cobb Custom Features (CCF) for the Tumble Generator Valves (TGV). I have been wanting to tinker around with this for awhile now and gain a better understanding on function rather than just "taking care of the codes".
Started with internet searches listing the TGV codes to mask. Honestly most of what I found was sorely outdated. Even if it related to more current MY cars it is poorly indicated if at all. The list I ended up with has too many possible codes for the number of circuits involved. At least from my experience it seemed like too many. ATR code masking is found under "Edit" header -> "Advanced Parameters" dropdown -> "DTCs (Base)" tab.


The code list was compared to my 2006MY WRX map. The following codes are not listed on my 2006MY map so I suspect these are for prior Model Year (MY) ECMs. Since I do not have an ATR for earlier MYs, I'll have to wait for someone else to confirm it for me. Please?
I'll be ignoring these codes but still worth mentioning: P1086, P1087, P1088, P1089 ,P1090, P1091, P1092, P1093, P1094, P1095, P1096, and P1097

These codes are listed in my 2006MY map. Toggles are no longer available in current ATR releases. So these are the TGV codes I will be focused on: P2004, P2005, P2006, P2007, P2008, P2009, P2011, P2012, P2016, P2017, P2021, and P2022

So great, a list of TGV codes but now what? I want to know what these monitors really are. A quick review of the 2006MY Field Service Manual (FSM) and I know the purpose of each code. Just to keep things strait remember the following:
-Bank 1 = Sensor 1 = Signal 1 = RHS bank (Right Hand while in seat)
-Bank 2 = Sensor 2 = Signal 2 = LHS bank (Left Hand while in seat)
-Intake Manifold Runner = TGV assembly
-Intake Manifold Runner Control = TGV Motor
-Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor / Switch = TGV Position sensor
TGV codes:
P2004 - TGV control stuck open (Bank 1)
P2005 - TGV control stuck open (Bank 2)
P2006 - TGV control stuck close (Bank 1)
P2007 - TGV control stuck close (Bank 2)
P2008 - TGV motor circuit OPEN (Bank 1)
P2009 - TGV motor circuit LOW (Bank 1)
P2011 - TGV motor circuit OPEN (Bank 2)
P2012 - TGV motor circuit LOW (Bank 2)
P2016 - TGV position circuit LOW (Bank 1)
P2017 - TGV position circuit HIGH (Bank 1)
P2021 - TGV position circuit LOW (Bank 2)
P2022 - TGV position circuit HIGH (Bank 2)

So great, a list of TGV code descriptions but now what? I want confirmation on what codes really set. A Generic Scan Tool (GST) is best to read fault codes but an updated APv3 will suffice if that is all you have on hand. Unplugging all four of the TGV connectors, operating Key On Engine Off (KOEO) and Key On Engine Running (KOER) results in the following active codes:
P2008 - sets when RHS TGV Motor is unplugged
P2011 - sets when LHS TGV Motor is unplugged
P2016 - sets when RHS TGV Position is unplugged
P2021 - sets when LHS TGV Position is unplugged
These codes do not set:
P2004 - I suspect rationality aborted when Bank 1 codes active.
P2005 - I suspect rationality aborted when Bank 2 codes active.
P2006 - I suspect rationality aborted when Bank 1 codes active.
P2007 - I suspect rationality aborted when Bank 2 codes active.
P2009 - I suspect aborted when P2008 is active.
P2012 - I suspect aborted when P2011 is active.
P2017 - I suspect aborted when P2016 is active.
P2022 - I suspect aborted when P2021 is active.
This operation is pretty much what I suspected from OEM. It makes no diagnostic sense to set a rationality code when there is already a circuit malfunction. Now it's time to deviate from OEM and see what happens.

TGV connection overview


TGV Position Bank 1 - difficult access near turbo, pretty poor photo but I promise it's under there


TGV Motor Bank 1 - easy access near power steering pump


TGV Position Bank 2 - easy access near oil filler tube


TGV Motor Bank 2 - moderate access near brake booster, pretty poor photo but I promise it's under there


Test#1 was a new map that masked P2008, P2011, P2016, and P2021 codes. Map loaded into a cold soaked engine, all TGV connectors unplugged, and KOEO. Oh we have some codes now:
P2004 - this now sets since we are masking P2008 and P2016 which defeats the P2004 abort.
P2005 - this now sets since we are masking P2011 and P2021 which defeats the P2005 abort.
I was somewhat expecting this to occur. This is exactly what I was wanting to learn and confirm here. If one just masks all the TGV codes, then this is sort of covered up. I also suspect P2006 and P2007 could be set under certain conditions.

Test#2 was a new map that masked P2004, P2005, P2006, P2007, P2008, P2011, P2016, and P2021 codes. Map loaded into and cold soaked engine, and all TGV connectors unplugged. KOEO, no codes. KOER, no codes and so far so good. Driving on the road, no codes but definitely an engine low power issue. Remember that I still have the TGV assemblies installed they are just deactivated so to speak. Basically the TGV butterflies are probably closing during the drive and causing an intake restriction. Obviously there are no codes to alert you to an issue but the boost values were much higher than norm and it drove like a lazy dog. Thankfully I was prepared for this with another map.

Test#3 was a new map that used CCF to duplicate the Bank 2 TGV position signal to Bank 1. It also enabled all the TGV codes. Map loaded into a warmed up engine, TGV connectors plugged back in EXCEPT for Bank 1 TGV Position. I had already read CCF descriptions noting that the TGV motor must be used when duplicating the TGV position. That requirement makes perfect sense. KOEO, no codes. KOER, no codes. Driving on the road, no codes and normal engine performance returned. Later ran this on a cold soaked engine and had no issues. I will say that Cobb's CCF TGV Duplication is a well thought out feature. So good job there...


Close up of the Parameter Description ->https://i.imgur.com/mZ1ijkW.jpg


Last edited by JarHarms; 08-01-2019 at 02:07 PM.
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Old 09-25-2017, 11:02 AM   #238
JarHarms
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This was only dealing with TGV "codes' so far. There can be other map tables and compensations that may relate to operational TGVs. It really varies on the MY. For my 2006 WRX there are two tables of interest.
Ignition Tables -> Compensation -> Cold Start ->
TGV Close Switch - modifies cold start timing floor when TGV switch is closed
TGV Open Switch - modifies cold start timing floor when TGV switch is open



I'm so glad I do not have a 2008+ and especially a DIT engine car.

Test#4 will likely be the introduction of the Fuel Pressure (FP) sender using the RHS TGV Position circuits and CCF settings (TGV dup, FP input, FP scaling). I'm using basically the same setup as Cobb's FP kit but with an AEM instead of AutoMeter sender.

Some thoughts so far:
-Obviously if you are masking the TGV codes and unplugging the harness connectors, you MUST have TGV deletes, gutted TGVs, TGV with removed butterflies, or some way to lock the butterflies OPEN.
-If you are performing a typical TGV delete on a 2006MY then the codes you want to mask are P2004, P2005, P2006, P2007, P2008, P2011, P2016, and P2021.
-Details on using CCF are pretty bleak...even what little is provided can be misleading. Shame on you.
-CCF TGV Duplication obviously takes care of the related TGV codes that would have set. There are COBBcodes but I'm not yet sure what those cover and how well. I will eventually drive into those and comment.
-I think "some" of the OEM TGV circuit-related codes could be useful to keep enabled and help diagnose the CCF sensors you are running through those circuits. I will eventually drive into those and confirm.
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Old 09-25-2017, 11:30 AM   #239
JarHarms
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Old school prototyping...lame by today's standards but it still works. So I ordered up the F750 filter on the right knowing that I can probably make it fit.


I don't really need the pressure bleed feature but wondered if it could be re-purposed as a Fuel Psi port instead. Dang fitting is counter bored in there though.


Quick grinding down on a 9/16 deep socket fixes that.


Hmm it is a M10x1.0 o-ring sealed port. The o-ring is a fluorosilicone (blue) material. I can probably work with that using a few more fittings. If so I can dump the Cobb in-line fuel adapter for a cleaner install.


All of the o-rings used are fluorosilicone (blue) type. I am unimpressed when info such as o-ring size is not provided with the part or even when requesting directly from the MFR. It's hardly proprietary info since anyone could measure then identify. I just wanted the actual sizes so I could easily order spares to have on hand.
Filter cup o-ring appears to be an odd size or metric, I've ordered some -035 and 1/16" cs is too thick.
Pressure relief port is -011.
DeltaPsi block used two o-rings that appear to be -003, slightly too thick but this size would work.
The filter element is labeled 1600934 and is likely a Bosch element of some sort....Pretty sure they could be found for <$45 each. I'm casually looking around for this.


I need to work on an install location pending what my fuel line routing ends up being. Then make up a mounting bracket of some sort. I might have this sorted out before crummy weather arrives?


If ID would have designed this smarter then it could be configured for LHS->RHA and RHS->LHS flow directions and would open up much improved mounting possibilities.
All they would have needed to do is place the deltaP gauge in the top and visible through the square window in the mounting bracket. Put the pressure port on the top, right where that etched "ID" logo is at. Then keep the filter symmetrical to the housing instead of offsetting it. Then all you would need to do is flip the mounting bracket and BAM now you have the opposite flow direction. Their fancy add-on pressure block would also still work. Duh

Last edited by JarHarms; 03-06-2018 at 10:47 AM.
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Old 09-25-2017, 09:19 PM   #240
JarHarms
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Default 2006 Warhammer WRX

Sweet. I found a Parker M10x1.0 to 1/8NPTF fitting that works in the F750 port really well. Just need to find a source for the SS316 version though.

Some work changes coming might add some delays. Hope I can still get what I need accomplished before winter weather arrives.

Last edited by JarHarms; 09-27-2017 at 08:22 AM.
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Old 10-03-2017, 01:52 PM   #241
JarHarms
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Sorely needing an update and some photos. The 2006 STI fuel pump hanger assembly is assembled and ready to go with a new AEM (50-1200) 320lph pump. I acquired this pump pretty economically and wanted to try it out. I was originally going to opt for a Bosch-044 / AEM 400lph pump. Those pumps would have required additional mounting provisions though.




Hose turned out great after deleting the in-tank filter assembly.


The AEM pump touches the screws that mount the slosh box bracket. I still need to find a way to avoid any rubbing here. Still not thrilled about the OEM (JIDECO) venturi jet pump. I know EVOs have common issue with those becoming a return restriction when using larger capacity pumps. It ends up keeping the base pressure higher then desired. I am likely to go back and look into re-drilling the jet, relief drilling upstream, or installing a Radium jet pump. Although the Radium uses a strait 6orb to barb fitting which will make it hard to R&R this hanger assembly. Looking into if a 6orb 90el or banjo fitting could replace that.


The DW filter sock fits tight on the AEM pump inlet, has an elbow of similar angle to OEM, fits within the STI slosh box, and flat against the bottom. The AEM sock would not work at all inside the slosh box. An early DW sock did not have enough elbow angle to sit flat. The Subaru OEM sock worked within the slosh box but fit too loosely on the AEM pump inlet. I do like the inner skeleton frame on the OEM sock though.



Back under the hood... Decided against a SS316 adapter fitting for the F750 psi port. Since it's $105 per fitting (yikes) and the steel version I have will work just fine. Hopefully tonight, need to figure out what hose fittings I need to order with the F750 mounting location I plan on using. Once those come in I should be able to start on hose routing and fabrication. Then come up with some sort of mounting bracket for the F750. Battery seems to be showing it's age now so might have to bump up the replacement selection. Stuck between (LiFePo) Shorai or (AGM) Deka. Not sure I want to mess with the LiFePo stuff just yet.
A bunch of other distractions keep coming in lately. It's slowing me down...

Last edited by JarHarms; 07-31-2019 at 10:53 AM.
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Old 10-05-2017, 12:37 PM   #242
JarHarms
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Some UEGO wiring done, still need another 6way connector for the engine bay. Decided why not add the serial port connector just in case.







Scrapped the plan on using Jiffy-Tite fittings on my fuel hookups, there just isn't enough room to work with. Even while using their (non-valved) Pro-Compact series 40 parts. So I'm back to normal fittings. Hoping that I have enough to make up my fuel runs between those parts, the measly few Cobb sends, and a few of the original hose parts. Fingers crossed.

Last edited by JarHarms; 06-07-2018 at 03:38 PM.
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Old 10-12-2017, 02:45 PM   #243
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Fuel fittings came in but have had no time to work on that. Original battery is shot and I grew tired of trying to figure out the LiFePo battery in's and out's. I just ordered up an ETX30L which will fit in pretty easy and retain some sense of reserve capacity. I'll mess with the LiFePo stuff another day. Used a Spec C battery tray, battery cover, and tie down. Some SAE terminal posts worked alright but the negatives are always too loose for my liking. I'll get another positive and turn it down to the right size later.




Center console is back out in order to get to the wiring jobs. UEGO is basically in except the final sensor routing. Re-doing the Defi controller circuits while I'm there. Re-positioning the DCCDpro box, although I have been strongly considering giving MapDCCD a try. Should also consider removing the seat heater extension harnesses since I'm either not using them or going a differnt path next year. Sort of on a pause now so I can figure out how I want to clean up the rat's nest of add on wiring in here. It just doesn't look up to my standards.

Last edited by JarHarms; 01-21-2018 at 11:17 PM.
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Old 11-30-2017, 10:42 AM   #244
JarHarms
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Ahh the daily driver's headgaskets are shot so I had to go new car shopping in haste. Also the new job is really cramping my project here, had back to back work trips on the 2nd week already. I just don't have any free-time lately. Life comes in waves I guess.

MapDCCD is being laced into the car now...although at a painfully slow rate. Eventually I should have it set up and ready for the DCCD equipped cluster install. Whenever I can get around to that.

Ordered a DSS CF propshaft so I might try to get that installed this weekend. I had originally planned to use the OEM bolts with some 8mm/10mm shims. Now I am going to just go ahead with drilling the R180 companion flange out to use the DSS-supplied hardware. It's overall easier and if I need to revert back it only needs replacing an $80 companion flange. DDS supplied bolts are 10.9 grade 10mm allen cap screws with a side milled off the caps to replicate the OEM d-shaped bolt heads. Also comes with 10mm nyloc nuts. The bolt holes in the DDS rear flange measure around 0.4010" (so between an X and Y drill size) and not quite a 10.5mm bore. The propshaft -to- Rdiff is mainly a clamp-load connection. I have a 13/32" drill on hand so I will probably just use that instead of buying an X drill bit, since these don't need to be that precise.


spicer slip yoke: (front) [spicer p/n 2-3-13461X]
SPICER ZRK
MTI 3
C2-3-2189-5

slip yoke plug [spicer p/n 500166-20]

spicer 4bolt yoke: (rear) [spicer p/n 2-2-1309]
SPICER
CZ2-2-631
BBP 12

spicer joints: (both) [spicer p/n 5-1310X]
SPR 529
P7 DT/DS

Last edited by JarHarms; 06-07-2018 at 03:37 PM.
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Old 12-11-2017, 10:36 AM   #245
JarHarms
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DSS propshaft is in. It installed fairly easily after I just said screw it and drilled out the R180 companion flange for the larger bolts. It does fit super tight to the tunnel, parking brake cables, rear outrigger structures, and the 6MT reverse lock cable. Had to move the reverse cable around and use an extra cable tie to ensure no contact occurs.
Found a CV boot leak evident by the CV grease flung all over the place. Picked up a new CV boot clamp at Napa and swapped it out. Had to remove the Tomei Ti to change the propshaft and clean off the CV grease. While I had the Tomei off I played around with the HKS rear diffuser. It looks like the tube routing on this particular Tomei will clear the diffuser bracket without needing to section it out. Good. Drilled out the poorly installed pop-rivets used on the diffuser fins. Thought about Ti hardware but ended up using 316SS. Ordered riv-nuts but still planning to install this later next year.
Found some hub rings to take the BBS 67mm down to 56mm. Seems to have worked out ok so I installed the BBS RE wheels to test out. I hate the AD07s but eff it, they will work for now.

Took for a short drive and the driveline noise is certainly different. Could not test it out much since roads are now salted and that sort of puts a damper on what driving I will do before spring. I guess it is onto the powertrain upgrades now.
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Old 01-02-2018, 01:15 PM   #246
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Oh Tomei... why you not surface your DP inlet flange?
Did you spend too much time on the useless mirror polishing? I suppose it might not leak used as-is or some have a slight exh leak they are unaware of. Ehh I can't just use this as-is. So I'm literally manually lapping this to the correct surface finish since it is a PITA to set up in a Bridgeport to fly cut. Dang there are 4 low spots that are really a pain.




Any my new job is so far void of any car enthusiasts of like mind. Dang.

Last edited by JarHarms; 01-21-2018 at 11:17 PM.
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Old 01-21-2018, 06:19 PM   #247
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Default 2006 Warhammer WRX

Started tearing into the engine top end but well behind the planned schedule. While I am in there, it's pretty clear I should also look into the pwr steering lines. So I'm looking through info on that now. Likely Aeroquip hose and as many of the fittings in steel and preferably machine crimped. I just need to figure out how I want to route the hoses and mate with the PS cooler hardline. Ordered some Goodridge fittings from UK to get things rolling. Sort of need to future-proof it to handle the 13:1 rack and possibly a '08 STI pump (horizontal outlet).

Finally trimmed the Subtle radiator plate so it now fits the Koyo. Too bad this was not originally designed to fit OEM, Koyo, and Mishi radiators.




Most of the exhaust related flanges have been re-surfaced now. The Tomei DP was dreadful. The KillerB header was flatter but surprisingly a pretty crappy surface finish. I'm sure they all would have worked fine as-is, but that's just not how I will do it. New snail arrived too. Not sure if I should get some ID1300cc injectors or just roll with the ID1000cc I have now. I've got a lot of work to do.

Last edited by JarHarms; 06-07-2018 at 03:33 PM.
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Old 02-08-2018, 09:07 AM   #248
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Have been fighting with the topend and fuel system lately. Mainly fitment issues and trying to scope out how I want to route other pieces. The TGV housings, injectors, and fuel rails are giving me a hell of a time right now. I'm just too picky...



Grimmspeed's EBCS comes with threaded fittings sized to 4mm (0.170") and corresponding hose. Grimmspeed's MBC is made with permanent barbs sized to 6mm (0.25") and corresponding hose. They do include two 6mm/4mm barb couplers with the MBC but still this is pretty lame. The better action would be to update the EBCS to threaded fitting sized for 6mm (0.25"). Having different hose sizes in the boost control system makes for unpredictable system behavior and calibration challenges. Since it is pretty common that the EBCS and MBC are used together in a hybrid setup, this is something that should be considered. Unfortunately these fittings are a bit tough to locate and then to purchase economically in small quantities.

Keep in mind that the turbo compressor, wastegate actuator, and turbo inlet ports could also be different sizes. I find it is best to reduce the different ones down as much as possible and try to use the same size hose throughout the system.
*In my case I do not plan to use the turbo inlet, my compressor port is 1/4", and only my wastegate actuator port is smaller than the rest.


Here are some fittings that should be in their EBCS kit in the first place get the job done. Honestly I bet their existing fittings are Pneumadyne parts.
strait Ni-plated Brass -- 1/8"NPT(m) thread to 1/4" barb -- Pneumadyne #EB60-1/8
90deg el Ni-plated Brass -- 1/8"NPT(m) thread to 1/4" barb -- Pneumadyne #ELB60-1/8

These might also be helpful depending on how you route your hose.
hex plug Ni-plated Brass -- 1/8"NPT(m) thread -- Pneumadyne #SPG-1/8
tee Ni-plated Brass -- 1/4" to 1/4" to 1/4" barbs -- Pneumadyne #ET60
adapter tee Ni-plated Brass -- 1/4"barb to 1/8"NPT(m) to 1/4"barb -- Pneumadyne #ET60-1/8

If you want stainless but get ready to pony up some cash.
strait 303 Stainless -- 1/8"NPT(m) thread to 1/4" barb -- Pneumadyne #EB60-1/8-303
90deg el 303 Stainless -- 1/8"NPT(m) thread to 1/4" barb -- Pneumadyne #ELB60-1/8-303

Last edited by JarHarms; 02-08-2018 at 10:48 PM.
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Old 02-08-2018, 04:18 PM   #249
JarHarms
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Three brands parts are being used on the area of the engine I am working on now.

The first very popular brand is working hard to get a place on my incompetent list. Order special through you.....they're o-rings.....pretty sure you do not manufacture o-rings in-house.....you know I'm smart enough to measure these right. Well that is a nice inconspicuous way to say we are not going to tell you Sir so you have to order through us at an inflated price. It's not really the price that bothers me though, it's more like hey we're here to help so buy our industry leading supported product...but really eff off when you need something. I'm not asking for your IP here but I guess I'll play since I need this project done soon. Ok so thanks for identifying which o-rings I need by part number.....but your webstore does not list any part numbers. WTF punt

In comparison the second brand I was dealing with today has been simply awesome. I wish they made more components I need.

The third brand is known for being pretty low on the support front, so at least I know what I'm getting into. They answered my initial questions briefly but accurately. I can support that.

Somedays I really effing hate the aftermarket performance industry.
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Old 02-14-2018, 04:03 PM   #250
JarHarms
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Ended up sorting out the fuel rail, ID injector, FPD, and TGV delete mounting. This arrangement lets me keep the fancy tension springs but it is very close to the AVCS plugs. I might reduce those alloy spacers and ditch the tension springs to work better with the AVCS harness connectors.
I'll get back to fighting with three bolts that locked up inside the coolant crossover. Grind a bit off the AVCS pipe and back to work on the TGV/manifold fitting.


Last edited by JarHarms; 05-21-2018 at 02:14 PM.
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