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Old 08-28-2021, 02:29 PM   #1
mlthomas
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Default 2011 wrx no start after new shortblock

Hey all. I know ther have been other threads with this similar issue but I haven't been able to find a resolution in any of them so far. If someone knows of one after reading this please point me in that direction!

Ok here's the skinny. 2011 wrx hatch with 156k miles on spun a rod bearing last month. I've rebuilt a 2.5 before and the short block was a pain so I decided to get a new one from Subaru ***129297;. I had the heads cleaned, checked and milled (0.006 taken off). So I put everything back together following the service manual instructions and using a full gasket kit from Subaru as well. I get the engine back in and everything hooked up and tight. Turn her over and she won't start. She cranks but thats it.

-battery is good and charged
-main grounds are good and I added several more for good measure
-im getting fuel pressure and the injectors appear to be working as all 4 cylinders were washed down when I pulled the plugs to check
-i attempted to duplicate spark but was not able to get it to
-replaced crank sensor with no effect
-replaced cam sensors (both) with no effect
-double checked cams were installed on the correct sides and they were
-i am able to communicate with ecu with the accessport and there are no DOCS
-all fuses are good
-all vacuum lines/hoses were checked and are all in place
-all connectors are connected
-plugs are new and coilpacks are less than 1 year old

The only thing I changed was a did the TGV deletes (removed the center fan and bar) but I kept part of the bar intact on the solenoid/sensor side so it would think they are still there. I have no DTC codes showing there is an issue with them. Also I don't think, and I could be wrong, that the tgv being off or even missing would keep the car from starting. Again, I could be very wrong on this one. Odd that I would have fuel but no spark.

I have checked, double checked and triple checked timing to be spot on.

I'm really kinda at a loss here and could use some help/guidance before I give up and take it to the stealer.

Thanks all.

Mike
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Old 08-28-2021, 03:27 PM   #2
pigboat_2
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Sounds like you're not getting spark, likely from some sensor you're missing that's not plugged in. Did you pull the ignition fuse in order to get the initial oil prime? I'm just assuming it's going to be something simple you overlooked.

You could get an in-line spark tester to verify you do or don't have spark. Easy starting point.

Pretty easy to forget plugging something in like the MAF, knock sensor, baro, o2, etc etc.
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Old 08-28-2021, 09:55 PM   #3
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Can you unplug and plug back or maybe spray it with electrical spray cleaner the big connector that connects engine harness to the car harness and make sure after you plug that in you push the clip so it clicks all the way, look for possibly bent pins?
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Old 08-28-2021, 09:58 PM   #4
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pull each coil out as its connected, insert any spark plug in it, touch the ground with the body of the spark plug and crank, make sure every coil is sparking.
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Old 08-29-2021, 11:01 AM   #5
mlthomas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperPete View Post
pull each coil out as its connected, insert any spark plug in it, touch the ground with the body of the spark plug and crank, make sure every coil is sparking.
Tried that and I'm not getting spark. Cleaned the connector and verified no bend/missing pins.

All connectors are plugged in and tight.

Went through subarus no start diagnostic testing from the starter circuit, ecm and coil pack wires. All grounds are good and all power is good.
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Old 08-29-2021, 11:19 AM   #6
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Double check your main harnesses, Iíve seen people unknowingly bend prongs. Also be sure the crank sensor, behind the alt, is plugged in. Without that the car will not start.
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Old 08-29-2021, 11:33 AM   #7
mlthomas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pigboat_2 View Post
Sounds like you're not getting spark, likely from some sensor you're missing that's not plugged in. Did you pull the ignition fuse in order to get the initial oil prime? I'm just assuming it's going to be something simple you overlooked.

You could get an in-line spark tester to verify you do or don't have spark. Easy starting point.

Pretty easy to forget plugging something in like the MAF, knock sensor, baro, o2, etc etc.
No spark with in line tester and no voltage from the ecu to tell the coil to fire. Coils have good grounds and 12v power (pins 3 and 2) but when kicking over there is no voltage to pin 1. So somewhere along the line the ecu isn't telling the coil to fire and I'm at a loss as to why.

The car does have a Viper security/remote start system but I've honestly never gotten the remote start to work. I assume (and could be wrong) that the security immobilizer wouldn't even let the car crank if it was still armed, and it does crank and has injector pulse.
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Old 08-29-2021, 01:38 PM   #8
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So guess what would cause only the coils not to get signal to fire?
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Old 08-29-2021, 02:17 PM   #9
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This is huge, and my bet is the problem. If you can find the model for the alarm you probably have to initialize it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mlthomas View Post
No spark with in line tester and no voltage from the ecu to tell the coil to fire. Coils have good grounds and 12v power (pins 3 and 2) but when kicking over there is no voltage to pin 1. So somewhere along the line the ecu isn't telling the coil to fire and I'm at a loss as to why.

The car does have a Viper security/remote start system but I've honestly never gotten the remote start to work. I assume (and could be wrong) that the security immobilizer wouldn't even let the car crank if it was still armed, and it does crank and has injector pulse.
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Old 08-29-2021, 07:06 PM   #10
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Ok so I have fuel injector pulse and I have spark, but it still will not start. Not gonna lie I think I had something disconnected when I was testing the spark, my bad on that and giving misinformation.

I tested the compression while I had the plugs out. They were all at 100-110 PSI on a cold, brand new block with unseated rings. I cant say ive ever tested and engine that was unseated and cold so I don't know if these numbers are off that much. I believe the goal would be 150-170 PSI on a warm engine that's been broken in, but obviously this engine is not either of those.

And I've checked timing and re-timed it a couple times now just to be sure its right.

I'm definitely lost here and about to take it to the dealer because I'm not sure what else it could be.
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Old 08-29-2021, 07:18 PM   #11
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try replacing crank position sensor
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Old 08-29-2021, 07:30 PM   #12
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try replacing crank position sensor

That was one of the first things I tried tbh. Then I replaced the cam sensors.
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Old 08-29-2021, 07:45 PM   #13
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when you cranking the engine without spark plugs, you smell the fuel?
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Old 08-29-2021, 08:07 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperPete View Post
when you cranking the engine without spark plugs, you smell the fuel?
Yes and when I pulled the plugs they were all soaked with fuel.

I tried using starter fluid with the fuel pump fuse pulled to see if I could get it to do something...and it did nothing.
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Old 08-29-2021, 08:20 PM   #15
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are you positive your coils connected in the correct order. harness plug to correct coil?
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Old 08-29-2021, 08:22 PM   #16
mlthomas
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As far as I know lol. White in back (trans side) and black in front (belt side)?
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Old 08-29-2021, 08:24 PM   #17
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I am not sure, but try swapping, if they are not firing in correct order, there is no spark at the time of fuel delivery, unless someone can confirm that this is correct order.
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Old 08-29-2021, 08:26 PM   #18
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On the pass side the wires are long enough to put either wire connector on either coil. On the driver's side the white wire connector will only reach the trans side coil
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Old 08-30-2021, 07:34 PM   #19
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Ok another thought. I'm just throwing **** at the wall here and seeing what sticks so bear with me.

Even tho I'm like 99% sure its timed correctly is it possible it's still off? May sound dumb but nothing makes sense right now to me. I have fuel, spark and compression, but the compression seems like maybe even for a cold engine with unseated rings? I'm not sure how it could be out of time because the cams are on the correct sides (I even pulled the engine again and pulled a valve cover off to verify this), the cam gears are on the correct sides and seated onto the cams correctly, and the belt was put on with all timing marks lined up correctly with the belt and the notches on the gears to their respective marks on each other and the covers. Someone said maybe I timed it 180* off but I doubt it because if I did I'd almost certainly damage the valves and possibly pistons too as its an interference engine.

Also perhaps it's it's ecu? I reverted it back to stock (unmarried my AP) to eliminate any potential tune issue with it starting. But could it be fried even if I can communicate with it with AP and my scan tool?
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Old 08-30-2021, 09:42 PM   #20
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put it back to stock eco map and give it a try, why not.
if you timing was way off, you would bend the valve by now already and lose compression.
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Old 08-30-2021, 09:47 PM   #21
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any changes with you fuel system? new pump or maybe pressure regulator removed, do you have pressure regulator in place? maybe you not getting enough fuel pressure and its not firing off.
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Old 08-31-2021, 12:00 AM   #22
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No one else thinks this sounds like an immobilizer issue from the aftermarket alarm?
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Old 08-31-2021, 07:12 AM   #23
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do you have aftermarket injectors? if you put back your stock tune, it may be flooding.
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Old 08-31-2021, 08:03 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperPete View Post
any changes with you fuel system? new pump or maybe pressure regulator removed, do you have pressure regulator in place? maybe you not getting enough fuel pressure and its not firing off.
Stock fuel system with no changes and stock injectors.
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Old 08-31-2021, 08:05 AM   #25
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No one else thinks this sounds like an immobilizer issue from the aftermarket alarm?

I removed the immobilizer bypass module and re-apliced the stock wires for the ecu and bcu immobilizer back together
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