The H6 Impreza Resource Thread

[omiotek]

Just gunna leave these here. Not sure how to post them so they automatically load from imgur

http://imgur.com/gallery/dF72mzX
http://imgur.com/gallery/3Dxb0oO

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[omiotek]

Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen

We'll, they're all fluid-filled - at least, the ones that came on my '02 Outback 30D were. I'm curious what the actual difference is between the 1st and 2nd gen part numbers, but not curious enough to spend the money to find out!



That's probably the route I'll end up going. The one thing I don't like is that the bushings are rubber instead of poly. I tried to talk to Sergey Kein on FB about where he actually gets the bushings - could I buy poly bushings for the control arms (or whatever) on X vehicle to replace the rubber? - but I didn't get far. I don't speak any Russian, and I got the impression his English was too limited to really get what I was trying to ask.



I got the idea from looking at pictures of them - they're obviously way too short and not shaped properly to replace the entire factory header/cat/y-pipe - and from reading Raptor's website, which says, "Catalytic converters remain in standard position," and lists "Weld on flange plates" among the included parts.

Yes, you're correct, they're not a true "bolt-on" - some cutting and welding is required. That was shown earlier in this thread (although that guy did a full custom setup rather than using the factory cats and y-pipe):


So my point still stands - in the end, you'll have a setup that is not truly optimized. "Someone that isn't worried about emissions, and wants to fully optimize the exhaust performance" would have headers that look more like what jzk25 fabbed years ago:


That's the sort of thing I assumed omiotek meant when he said he was thinking about headers. There's such a small market, though, and there's probably enough variability between platforms that a single design might not fit everything, so I think he's be hard pressed to come up with a solution at a price point that cheapskate Subie owners would accept.

Yeah I should of said a more universal turbo manifold set. Basically it would be a turbo manifold that you could either use as a header and make your own mid pipe to stay na or make your up pipe. It should just give me a good starting point.

[jvangelder]

Originally Posted by omiotek

Just gunna leave these here. Not sure how to post them so they automatically load from imgur

http://imgur.com/gallery/dF72mzX
http://imgur.com/gallery/3Dxb0oO

Well those are nice, I may have to pick up a set of the exhaust flanges if they end up available

[omiotek]

Originally Posted by jvangelder

Well those are nice, I may have to pick up a set of the exhaust flanges if they end up available

I'll probably do 5 sets unless i see further interest to do more. The more I do the cheaper they will be

[Kito818]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/HYQeKAXwVces4EDT9

Well FML, any ideas?

[lodown1]

Kito818

What is your question?

[Kito818]

Originally Posted by lodown1

Kito818

What is your question?

The three bolts in the magnetic tray on the crank bolt, they shouldn't be left over. I replaced the head gaskets, and when I got done with the rear timing cover I have those three bolts left. I may have to run into work to grab a pair of calipers to measure them, but the small one is a 10mm head M5 x15, the other two I don't know exact sizes. I just hate that I may end up having to take the rear cover back off to find the bolt locations. I'm about to start going bolt by bolt in the manual, in literally a few minutes.

[vicious_fishes]

all i see is the cam gears etc with no chain/tensioners?

[vicious_fishes]

oh hang on... i see. I'm pretty sure the allen key ones hold the water pump on and the others I'm not so sure of. you appear to have replaced the water pump bolts with six point bolts so that's where those would go. try to find a picture of one with the cover off and compare?

[Kito818]

Originally Posted by vicious_fishes

oh hang on... i see. I'm pretty sure the allen key ones hold the water pump on and the others I'm not so sure of. you appear to have replaced the water pump bolts with six point bolts so that's where those would go. try to find a picture of one with the cover off and compare?

I REALLY don't like doing things this way, and it speaks horribly of me, but I double checked with two different manuals, tribecka and legacy(surprisingly Subaru didn't just copy and paste), but all the bolts responsible for the front and rear timing covers are somehow accounted for. The bolts have to have come from one(or both) of the heads. I'll do one more inspection of them tomorrow, I was interrupted after getting the front timing cover back on, then I will put them in a bag until I find where the leak(s) is(are). Once I get everything settled, wiring, plumbing, ect., and I'm sure everything's good to go the engine is coming out again anyway... in a few months... probably. I'm so far behind my "schedule" at this point, so much for mid december. I'm also looking at picking up another Impreza so that's going to slow things down again unfortunately(is that really unfortunate though?).

In the end it's going to come down to, I'll find it when something breaks or when I tear it apart again for sleeves, rods, and piston.

[lodown1]

I see two M8 screws and 1 M6 screw in your magnetic tray. The M8 Hex head does not go into the rear timing cover, it must have come from the head.

The other M8 socket head cap screw looks to be a 30mm length, there should be 6 of those that go into the lower positions around the water pump. (Position F in the service manual) I can see the 4 that are inside the cover, I cannot see the two that are outside the cover, In relation to the water pump 1 is about 3 o'clock the other is about 7/8 o'clock. Double check that you put those two in as they are easy to miss being a bit sunk in.

The M6 hex head looks to be the shorter 14mm length, there are 7 of these that go around the far outside positions around the drivers side head. (Position A) I cannot see these as they are blocked from view by the cam gears. Double check that all 7 are installed, especially the one that is underneath the timing chain guide between the cam gears.

[fwathne36]

I have a AWD 2011 Impreza 2.5 hatch, that is a bit lacking from the power side of things. I don't have too much money, and I dont want to blow the already old(ish) 90,000 mile engine by turbocharging it, and so i find myself here, in the H6 swap forum....interesting. I already found the engine (EZ30R from a 2009 Outback)with 40,000 miles, as well as the stock intake manifold, exhaust manifold, power steering, ac compressor, alternators, injectors and the fuel rail. I am looking for advice on how to attack the project from the electrical (wiring) standpoint, as well as exact directions on the best ecu/tuning options. Also, I currently have the stock 5 speed transmission, and I was hoping to keep it with the new swap, is this an option? and if so, does the tranny bolt directly to the EZ30?

PS. I know I will have to get new radiators and a new cooling setup- maybe thinking a radiator from a 2009 outback 3.0 with some push fans. Please advise.

[lodown1]

Start by reading this thread...It contains many of the answers you are asking.

[Kito818]

Originally Posted by fwathne36

I have a AWD 2011 Impreza 2.5 hatch, that is a bit lacking from the power side of things. I don't have too much money, and I dont want to blow the already old(ish) 90,000 mile engine by turbocharging it, and so i find myself here, in the H6 swap forum....interesting. I already found the engine (EZ30R from a 2009 Outback)with 40,000 miles, as well as the stock intake manifold, exhaust manifold, power steering, ac compressor, alternators, injectors and the fuel rail. I am looking for advice on how to attack the project from the electrical (wiring) standpoint, as well as exact directions on the best ecu/tuning options. Also, I currently have the stock 5 speed transmission, and I was hoping to keep it with the new swap, is this an option? and if so, does the tranny bolt directly to the EZ30?

PS. I know I will have to get new radiators and a new cooling setup- maybe thinking a radiator from a 2009 outback 3.0 with some push fans. Please advise.

Best ECU option, I say it's ECU 1, that guy says ECU 2, someone else says ECU 3, is there a "best ECU" option out there, no. What are YOU building for? Get an ECU that will get you there. My build is using a Haltech elite 2500, but maybe you're not aiming for what I'm aiming for. One of the things I have found about the ECU I am using is that Haltech's ESP software will actually create a wiring diagram for your build based on the pinouts you configure. This can then be used to help you in the wiring process.

5spd should bolt up just fine, I will find out for sure next week when I line my engine up, but I have a 6spd that's going in, so I'll pretty much just be doing to see for myself for my next Impreza.

Good luck with your adventure and keep us posted.


EDIT: Haltech also offers a base map/tune, for the EZ30, so you'll be able to turn the key when you're all set. Additionally, if have a complete wire harness for the EZ30, with the ECU plug ends intact, you can avoid the whole wiring game by getting the plug-n-play adapter offered by Haltech as well. I don't mind the wiring, which is good because my wiring harness was cut.

EDIT 2: just an FYI, if you're going for cheap, you could order an JDM STI front CLIP with rear suspension and dif for less than what you'll spend installing an H6. It will also be a lot less work in the end. Seeing as the EJ series have hit the 1000HP line too, this is really only a thing for people who want something "different". That's the way I see it at least, I like the sense adventure of the project over just swinging another H4 in. Since everyone seems to try to talk people out of this swap I figured I'd do my part. Really though, your car, your project, your decision so don't take this as discouragement, just another option.

[Kito818]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/hyA9HUARNKZzhoeMA

I'm trying to figure out what this hole in the rear chain cover is that goes all the way into the waterpump housing. Kind of frustrated by this because I just got the engine back together last night but when I turned it over I saw this. That hole is cleanly bored, and lines up with a hole in the water pump housing, so it's not something that punched through on accident, but I also don't see any threads for something to screw into this hole. Anyone have an idea?

[RedMonkey999]

Originally Posted by Kito818

https://photos.app.goo.gl/hyA9HUARNKZzhoeMA

I'm trying to figure out what this hole in the rear chain cover is that goes all the way into the waterpump housing. Kind of frustrated by this because I just got the engine back together last night but when I turned it over I saw this. That hole is cleanly bored, and lines up with a hole in the water pump housing, so it's not something that punched through on accident, but I also don't see any threads for something to screw into this hole. Anyone have an idea?

A zoomed out picture with context would be helpful. I have lots of high-res pics from when I disassembled my EZ30R, so should be able to get you an answer.

[Kito818]

Originally Posted by Kito818

https://photos.app.goo.gl/hyA9HUARNKZzhoeMA

I'm trying to figure out what this hole in the rear chain cover is that goes all the way into the waterpump housing. Kind of frustrated by this because I just got the engine back together last night but when I turned it over I saw this. That hole is cleanly bored, and lines up with a hole in the water pump housing, so it's not something that punched through on accident, but I also don't see any threads for something to screw into this hole. Anyone have an idea?

the hole in the bottom of the water pump housing in this picture, has no plug and goes directly out of the rear chain cover, looking at it from outside of the chain cover, I believed this MUST leak either oil or water, but seeing it from here, and looking at a water pump where the gasket is forward of the lined up hole on the pump, I'm starting to think I was panicking for no reason? Is this just some kind of "weep hole" that I don't need to concern myself with?

[RedMonkey999]

I think your suspicion may be correct. Haven't dug out my engine yet, but looking at my pics, it doesn't look like there's anything in the hole on mine either. Also, it does appear as though the hole may be forward of where the coolant seal is, and rearward of where the oil seal is. Perhaps it's a buffer to ensure the coolant and oil don't mix if one of the seals fails.

[Kito818]

Originally Posted by RedMonkey999

I think your suspicion may be correct. Haven't dug out my engine yet, but looking at my pics, it doesn't look like there's anything in the hole on mine either. Also, it does appear as though the hole may be forward of where the coolant seal is, and rearward of where the oil seal is. Perhaps it's a buffer to ensure the coolant and oil don't mix if one of the seals fails.

I kept digging until I found info about leaks from that hole, that I can find that is exactly what that's for, just a buffer space with a drain.

[Kito818]

I feel like I didn't get anything done today but I know that's a lie. So first, let me contribute a WORK IN PROGRESS with a little bit of a warning, this is as I said a work in progress, I don't know if this wiring list is correct yet, so follow/use at your own risk. This is wiring for 2003+ EZ30s to a Haltech Elite 2500, so if that's not what you're using for your car, don't use this.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing



in case the IMG command doesn't work with that link.
https://flic.kr/p/23W1piH

Now I could use a bit of help, from anyone who feels up to it. The labeling system for Haltech has a character limit, thus "start swit" and "varlift2", and subaru likes to call things completely different things. So my question is what are the VVT solenoids on the front and back of both of the intake cams called in a way that Haltech wants to call them because I'm a bit lost. I have enough wires for the solenoid switches, the white harness plugs at the back of the heads, and either the front or rear solenoids... so which ones do I wire?

Thoughts or ideas?

[Kito818]

In my response to my previously above post, at this point I'm not going to wait, I'm going to keep plowing forward and we'll get/find an answer later. The engine can run without VVT(right?). I spent more money on this ECU so I could have VVT and while it might have been a mistake, I'm not going to whine about it right now. That said if you have an answer I would love to hear it.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/2vxNRocKXdhDFNMD9

In other news I've about got the wiring harness mapped. Only thing that's confusing me at this point is is why, when the ECU has a direct wire for the fuel pump, is there a custom wire allocation for the fuel pump? Which wire do I use? Same with auxiliary fuel pump set up by default in the programming, does the legacy/liberty have two fuel pumps?

I've not seen it mentioned anywhere but does anyone know what happens when the BCU doesn't see the Subaru ECU anymore? I'm in an 09 base model, Is the BCU going to throw a fit somehow? I mean immobilizer won't exactly work anymore, since it's a standalone ECU I can't see it keeping me from driving the car. The Compustar remote start I have in the car can take over door locks and alarm if I have to, but if the BCU threw a fit what could it do to make me unhappy? Last questions, can/should I connect the Haltech CAN to the Subaru CAN? If so which Subaru CAN do I connect to(two in my car)?

[Kito818]

Forever more research... damn it Poe... Anyway, eliminated the stepper wire pinout for the fuel pump. Taking apart the Haltech fuse block, and looking into the wiring for my Impreza and poof we have an answer. So I COULD actually run that prelabeled wire to the fuel pump controller, since the prelabeled wire is already through a relay signaled by the ECU getting power, I'm probably just going to bypass the fuel pump controller on the theory that the EZ30 needs more fuel and wiring my pump so that it's always on, instead of on-demand, will probably be better in the long run(more like sort run, fuel pump will be getting replaced anyway). Still don't have an answer on the CAN question, though I have made a post on the Haltech forums so hopefully that will be figured out soon.

Also sorry if I'm posting too much, but I figured, this being the resource thread it's better to have more information than less. And hopefully people coming down the road, who may have similar questions, can find their answers from my ramblings? That's the fragmented thought anyway.

[Kito818]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/4qdhERvmTuwZVj9z6

Finally done with the harness-sans VVT. I have the wires for VVT set aside, but I'm a bit nervous about setting them up with no experience doing so. For now I can get the engine running with out VVT. Tomorrow when I wake up I'll update the wires list spreadsheet for this attempt and pull the car in to remove the 2.5, it's time.

[Kito818]

I feel it's important to note, especially to all the people who have NOT done this swap, and I'm being patient and polite by not quoting them, the 4EAT driveshaft/propshaft DOES NOT FIT for the EZ30R W/6spd Impreza swap. I'm only out 90$ for the driveshaft, but it's still annoying.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/w1TwetbPYRkth2ZC6 on a more positive note, the engine and trans are bolted in, looks like there's even enough room to change spark plugs on the motor too lol.

[Kito818]

Might be pulling the 6spd out anyway, seems like once I bolted the brace to the frame rear of the shifter that it is now stuck in one position, which shouldn't be the case, however nothing seems to be able to get the shifter to move right now so it will have to be the first thing on my to do list in the morning, I'm done for the night.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/uZkXy92hUcFte1gYA
https://photos.app.goo.gl/sfj634GPLo47CQ3g6