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Old 10-10-2017, 10:30 AM   #1
zachreny
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Default Process west verticooler problem

Hi guy this is my first post. I have owned a 2017 wrx for almost year now. The list of mods I have are Cobb ap, mishimoto cold air, turbo xs hybrid blow off, and now process west verticooler. So I just installed the verticooler yesterday and now my car has wierd idle going on. The idle is kind ruff specially when cold after it comes off high idle to warm up. What happens is after it's warm and the car is running and you push the clutch in to stop and they are drops down to like 150rpm stubbles then seems to come back to idle. The AP on the air to fuel correction 1 the gauge read 34 when idling. I don't ever remember it being that high at idle. So does that mean it's running rich or lean? I'm trying to figure out if it's an air leak in piping that I put on or a vacuum leak I may have caused? I have have tgv delete, egr delete, and 3 port boost controller coming in the mail. I just wanna get my car running right because when that stuff come in I'm going to need a protune. I was also wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction as to find the best place to get a cobb protune done. Either etune or local and guys I live in good old Maine. Any help would be appreciated. I'd like info on how to fix my idle and tuning info thanks.
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Old 10-10-2017, 10:38 AM   #2
sth36
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Join Date: Jun 2016
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Location: Harrisburg, PA
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2016 WRX, Stg 2, FF
Ice Silver

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Quote:
Originally Posted by zachreny View Post
Hi guy this is my first post. I have owned a 2017 wrx for almost year now. The list of mods I have are Cobb ap, mishimoto cold air, turbo xs hybrid blow off, and now process west verticooler. So I just installed the verticooler yesterday and now my car has wierd idle going on. The idle is kind ruff specially when cold after it comes off high idle to warm up. What happens is after it's warm and the car is running and you push the clutch in to stop and they are drops down to like 150rpm stubbles then seems to come back to idle. The AP on the air to fuel correction 1 the gauge read 34 when idling. I don't ever remember it being that high at idle. So does that mean it's running rich or lean? I'm trying to figure out if it's an air leak in piping that I put on or a vacuum leak I may have caused? I have have tgv delete, egr delete, and 3 port boost controller coming in the mail. I just wanna get my car running right because when that stuff come in I'm going to need a protune. I was also wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction as to find the best place to get a cobb protune done. Either etune or local and guys I live in good old Maine. Any help would be appreciated. I'd like info on how to fix my idle and tuning info thanks.
Here's the usual advice: Clean MAF, secure all connections, make sure there are no leaks or lose hoses. You're running a hybrid BOV and an intake with presumably no custom tune--I'm surprised you haven't had more issues until now.

As far as who to use to tune your car, I would suggest an etune from Ron Watson at Phatbotti, Bren tuning, or Mike Botti, in that order. Can't help with a dyno tune as I'm from PA but maybe you can check the local forum and see who does a good job.
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Old 10-10-2017, 10:59 AM   #3
zachreny
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I have a Cobb AP and I am running just over the shelf mishimoto tune for my the intake I have made for it. That blow of valve was designed to work with the car and no tune. It only releases half the air the other half is recirculated back in. Should I go back to stock full recir valve?
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Old 10-10-2017, 11:06 AM   #4
sth36
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Location: Harrisburg, PA
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2016 WRX, Stg 2, FF
Ice Silver

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Quote:
Originally Posted by zachreny View Post
I have a Cobb AP and I am running just over the shelf mishimoto tune for my the intake I have made for it. That blow of valve was designed to work with the car and no tune. It only releases half the air the other half is recirculated back in. Should I go back to stock full recir valve?
Depends on who you ask. It's venting metered air to atmosphere instead of back into the intake tract so it can screw with AFRs. To what extend I'm not sure and it would only be for a short instance.

I've seen OTS maps for intakes and they always seem less than ideal. But I am happy to hear you're not one of the countless noobs running around with some intake and running the standard tune.
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Old 10-10-2017, 11:33 AM   #5
uofime
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Location: Chicago
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2015 WRX
Galaxy Blue Pearl

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Quote:
Originally Posted by zachreny View Post
Hi guy this is my first post. I have owned a 2017 wrx for almost year now. The list of mods I have are Cobb ap, mishimoto cold air, turbo xs hybrid blow off, and now process west verticooler. So I just installed the verticooler yesterday and now my car has wierd idle going on. The idle is kind ruff specially when cold after it comes off high idle to warm up. What happens is after it's warm and the car is running and you push the clutch in to stop and they are drops down to like 150rpm stubbles then seems to come back to idle. The AP on the air to fuel correction 1 the gauge read 34 when idling. I don't ever remember it being that high at idle. So does that mean it's running rich or lean? I'm trying to figure out if it's an air leak in piping that I put on or a vacuum leak I may have caused? I have have tgv delete, egr delete, and 3 port boost controller coming in the mail. I just wanna get my car running right because when that stuff come in I'm going to need a protune. I was also wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction as to find the best place to get a cobb protune done. Either etune or local and guys I live in good old Maine. Any help would be appreciated. I'd like info on how to fix my idle and tuning info thanks.
It sounds like you have a post maf air leak . Double check the connections, especially the o-ring where the charge pipe meets the turbo, there are often issues with that seating properly on aftermarket chargepipes.
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Old 10-10-2017, 01:24 PM   #6
GlarryHoodDIT
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Phatron Tuned

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Leak between MAF and Turbo. The blow off valve wouldn't affect idle as it's not venting anything. Blow off valves will make you spool slowest when running through gears as the turbo has to recompress the air that was vented.
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Old 10-10-2017, 01:52 PM   #7
zachreny
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Thank you so much for the responses. This is my first subie by the way. I did some reading on putting after market parts on my car. I realised i needed some kind of tune to make sure putting that intake on wouldn't cause that one cylinder I read about to go lean. Yes the ots maps are less than ideal it did have it's hick ups but ran decent. I knew it was better than nothing. Now I'm concerned though about the tune. I hope someone could give me a good base map when I get the rest of the parts for my first custom tune in the mail. I also don't know how to contact the people that the guy mentioned in the first reply to my post about having custom tune. I know my car isn't going to run right at all when I put in new boost controller, tgv delete and EGR delete . I don't want to cause damage so I would like a base tune for those new parts and maybe some extra ponies to utilize my new verticooler. So info on how to contact those etuners would be nice. What's the average cost for a tune to run good for everyday driving and an agressive tune for track days. Thanks again everyone
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Old 10-10-2017, 02:03 PM   #8
dand3
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http://lmgtfy.com/?q=ron+watson+tuning
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=bren+tuning

I honestly don't think you should be modifying your car until you know exactly what you are doing and why you are doing it. Buying parts for 'extra ponies' and installing without knowing the repercussions is just asking for it.
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Old 10-10-2017, 03:04 PM   #9
BrenTuning
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Happy to tune it whenever you're ready. Can email or call anytime [email protected] or 508-762-1769.
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Old 10-10-2017, 04:22 PM   #10
Jawsofire
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Fill out your profile. If we know where you're located, it would easier to recommend local tuners.
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Old 10-11-2017, 06:13 PM   #11
zachreny
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I live in southern Maine. I will fill out my profile at some point soon. You know this my be my first subie but I am not new to cars I do know quite a bit just not a lot in the area of tuning anything my self.
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Old 10-13-2017, 04:25 AM   #12
zachreny
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I found an air leak by the bov and I also took out the turbo xs hybrid bov off and put the factory full recir back in. Thank you everyone for your help. My car has never run better

Last edited by zachreny; 10-16-2017 at 12:15 PM.
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Old 10-13-2017, 09:42 AM   #13
sth36
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Location: Harrisburg, PA
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2016 WRX, Stg 2, FF
Ice Silver

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Quote:
Originally Posted by zachreny View Post
I found an air leak by the bov and I also out the turbo xs hybrid bov off and put the factory full recir back in. Thank you everyone for your help. My car has never run better
Cheers man! Happy to hear she's back to full strength!
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Old 10-13-2017, 12:00 PM   #14
Jawsofire
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Galaxy Blue Pearl

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Keep an eye on that hose clamp. They are known to loosen over time. I've had mine come loose twice now.
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Old 10-16-2017, 12:15 PM   #15
zachreny
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Thanks for all the info now it's time for a pro tune. I would like a cobb pro tune now that my car is running right am I ready to install the tgv delete, EGR delete, and the cobb 3 port boost controller? After that is when I need to use the base pro tune map data log the way the car running the fine adjustments after? Also should I have a everyday driving map and then a full power map? That would be better for the car right?
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Old 10-16-2017, 01:24 PM   #16
gn4rwhals
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Crystal White Pearl

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You will need a base map for TGV/EGR and 3 port EBCS, usually you get 1 tune for the car, just tell your tuner not to send it if its your daily driver.
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