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12-12-2008, 05:21 PM | #51 |
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For people like us, maybe it will upset the engines' delicate balance.
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12-12-2008, 06:15 PM | #52 |
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i was considering going to Rotella-T 5W-40 on my next change. i blew up my first motor on M1 5-30. after a brand new block and two oil changes on RP, about 7000 miles, i was wondering if the 5-40 rotella would be a good choice. ive read over and over on here and the bob is the oil guy site trying to research the oil. so again, how many people have been running Rotella-T 5W-40 and have success with it? i really dont want to risk blowing this car up again. i dont track it or race it its just a daily driver.
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12-12-2008, 06:21 PM | #53 |
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mobile 1 synthetic is like italian olive oil..it sux
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12-14-2008, 05:17 PM | #54 | |||
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
-Dennis |
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12-14-2008, 06:52 PM | #55 |
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12-18-2008, 04:27 PM | #56 |
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I think there is a reference to the imitation olive oil from NY/NJ being sold in CT in that post.
On 10k miles wish Amsoil ASL 5w30... 5k more to go! |
12-18-2008, 07:49 PM | #57 | |
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'cuz it isnt and thats just plain nuts |
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12-18-2008, 09:13 PM | #58 |
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^serious.....
ill go max 4k on my gc 0w-30 on how spirited i drive, including stop and go, car getting turned on and off......and etc. etc. |
12-18-2008, 09:33 PM | #59 |
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The best oils are usually found in convenience stores. They are usually marked API "SA". We all know an "A" is the best grade.
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12-19-2008, 08:55 AM | #60 |
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12-19-2008, 09:42 PM | #61 |
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http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php...tor_oil_basics
Hopefully this will help, although long, it's definitely worth the read. The conclusions I reached after having read the article are as follows: Run a 10w (or possibly a 5w) oil as today's 0w oils don't resist shearing well. If it wasn't for the viscosity shearing affect of today's oil, 0w would be the best. Unfortunately, a good 0W oil is not yet available. Motul 300V or Redline are best because they are ester based oils and thus resist viscosity shear much better than Mobil 1 does. I'm not positive but I think I recall hearing that Royal Purple is ester based as well. I would personally not run anything over a 10w35 oil in a suby, although admittedly I'm not sure about information regarding normal operating temperature for your cars, but I believe they don't run too hot (unless racing conditions are present). Bottom line: I would run full synth. I would not run M1. I would run an ester based oil. |
12-20-2008, 12:03 AM | #62 | |
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12-21-2008, 10:50 AM | #63 |
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12-21-2008, 03:27 PM | #64 | |
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Another thing about that article, Dr. Haas is a surgeon and car enthusiast. He is not a tribologist. He does use 20 grades in his exotics , but he does not use girly-man thin oils like Mobil1. Only Red Line or Renewable Lubricants Inc. Red Line 5W-20 would resist shearing better than most (if not all) Energy Conserving xw-30's like Mobil1 because of it's high HTHS. -Dennis |
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12-24-2008, 01:14 PM | #65 |
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I commonly read that Rotella 5w40 is recommended, any thoughts on the 15w40 variety for those of us that live in mild climates (say greater than 30 F temps)? I've actually read some threads at BITOG suggesting the 15w40 is more shear stable than the 5w40, for example here... http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...ue#Post1220861
So despite 5w40 being synthetic and 15w40 plain dino, if the 15w40 is more shear stable wouldn't it be a better candidate for mild climate or summer use?...and also extended change intervals? |
12-24-2008, 07:53 PM | #66 | |
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A cSt viscosity @ 100 degrees C of 15.5 makes me salivate! |
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12-24-2008, 08:04 PM | #67 | |
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if you are just gonna dump it every 3k.....use the 15w40 |
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