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Old 10-27-2014, 06:03 PM   #751
Bikelok
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoapBox View Post
You can also make a "hub shark" with about $15 in Home Depot threaded rod and couple nuts as well. I have the HF kit for $90 too, but used to just make my own pullers all the time.

After you do a couple, it gets pretty easy actually.

Renting the slide hammer from your local autozone ($0) is the other piece you need.

Maybe a bearing splitter and a puller to remove the outer race from the hub too. But I stopped doing that long ago. I just dremel a slit in the race until it's really weak, and break it. Removes the press fit and falls right off the hub.
I agree, one can be made quite easily. The HF one is very convenient and a good deal if you do more than one brand/make of vehicle.


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Old 10-27-2014, 09:16 PM   #752
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Originally Posted by mhoerath View Post
Make sure the retaining circlip is out before trying to remove the race.

Yeah, the circlip was out; just couldn't get that outer race out for some reason. I'll try again with the other front bearing; I'll figure it out this time around.


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Old 10-27-2014, 11:52 PM   #753
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Default Wheel Bearing Replacement - Guru's guide w/pics

Quote:
Originally Posted by neg_matnik View Post
Yeah, the circlip was out; just couldn't get that outer race out for some reason. I'll try again with the other front bearing; I'll figure it out this time around.


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Here is a close up of that lip I was referring to.

When its all greased up you can mistake it for the outer race. You have to make sure the HF cup slides past the lip and rests on the race itself.
Edit:
Here is a fully stripped passenger front GD/GG knuckle. I'm not sure if you can see it here better.


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Old 10-28-2014, 12:18 AM   #754
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Originally Posted by Bikelok View Post
Here is a close up of that lip I was referring to.

When its all greased up you can mistake it for the outer race. You have to make sure the HF cup slides past the lip and rests on the race itself.
Edit:
Here is a fully stripped passenger front GD/GG knuckle. I'm not sure if you can see it here better.


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Perfect pictures ! Thanks !
I get it now. I'll make sure to use the right cup / driver size on the other bearing race. Man, nothing beats good pictures !
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Old 07-06-2015, 05:10 PM   #755
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Awesome post! What year is this on? Would these steps work on a 2010?

Also, my rear wheel bearings are making noise but I am told their is no "play" (words that the last shop I took it to used). In practice there is some slight vibration at 70mph. I drive 160 highway miles per day, and it will be one more week before I get to work on it. Am I safe to drive the car for about 800 more miles or will the bearings probably go out before then?
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Old 07-06-2015, 07:14 PM   #756
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Originally Posted by tlking4 View Post
Awesome post! What year is this on? Would these steps work on a 2010?
No. On a 2010, you simply remove the axle and caliper/rotor, unbolt 4 bearing carrier bolts, replace the carrier and bolts, re-install the brakes and axle with a new nut and call it a day.

Takes about 1-2 hours if it's your first time, and the other side will probably take 30 minutes. If axles are seized, change that estimate to 1-2 days depending on if you can pop them loose or need a shop to do it.

I had a rear bearing make noise for thousands of miles before replacing it. If there isn't play, you'll be fine for a while. FWIW the bearing probably would have lasted another 10k+ on mine.
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Old 07-06-2015, 08:29 PM   #757
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrsaturn7085 View Post
No. On a 2010, you simply remove the axle and caliper/rotor, unbolt 4 bearing carrier bolts, replace the carrier and bolts, re-install the brakes and axle with a new nut and call it a day.

Takes about 1-2 hours if it's your first time, and the other side will probably take 30 minutes. If axles are seized, change that estimate to 1-2 days depending on if you can pop them loose or need a shop to do it.

I had a rear bearing make noise for thousands of miles before replacing it. If there isn't play, you'll be fine for a while. FWIW the bearing probably would have lasted another 10k+ on mine.
Oh wow. OK that makes me feel better. *edit* but the vibration is certainly noticeable at highway speeds, and the sounds are quite loud. I hope mine last as long as yours did.

But if I did order a pair of hub assemblies, would those include the bearings, and would the replacement be as simple as you described?

Last edited by tlking4; 07-07-2015 at 09:34 AM.
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Old 07-18-2015, 11:28 AM   #758
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I know this is an ancient thread, but hopefully someone can put my fears at ease. I think I followed the procedure correctly, but I don't have a warm fuzzy about the rear bearings.

2007 STi rear bearings. Fronts were easy as they were bolt-in. For the rears, it appears that only the seals hold the conical bearings in? Obviously the race was pressed in, but the bearings (inside and outside) are WAY loose and are apparently only held in place by the seal. I realize that once the axle is installed that the axle nut would prevent the arrangement from coming apart... but I need to be sure before I put the car back together that I'm on the right track.

Thanks,
J
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Old 07-18-2015, 12:00 PM   #759
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zombie Panda View Post
I know this is an ancient thread, but hopefully someone can put my fears at ease. I think I followed the procedure correctly, but I don't have a warm fuzzy about the rear bearings.

2007 STi rear bearings. Fronts were easy as they were bolt-in. For the rears, it appears that only the seals hold the conical bearings in? Obviously the race was pressed in, but the bearings (inside and outside) are WAY loose and are apparently only held in place by the seal. I realize that once the axle is installed that the axle nut would prevent the arrangement from coming apart... but I need to be sure before I put the car back together that I'm on the right track.

Thanks,
J

The bearings are held in place with a retainer. The shape of the races and bearings are what keeps them in place not the seals or the retainer.
They will seem loose until they are installed.
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Old 07-18-2015, 03:55 PM   #760
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikelok View Post
The bearings are held in place with a retainer. The shape of the races and bearings are what keeps them in place not the seals or the retainer.
They will seem loose until they are installed.
Slight correction: the bearing race is held in place with a retainer. The shape of the bearings and race locate the bearing, and the axle and axle nut are what provides retention and preloading.
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Old 07-18-2015, 08:52 PM   #761
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Originally Posted by mrsaturn7085 View Post
Slight correction: the bearing race is held in place with a retainer. The shape of the bearings and race locate the bearing, and the axle and axle nut are what provides retention and preloading.

Yes that is a more better explanation.
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Old 07-21-2015, 03:18 PM   #762
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Originally Posted by mrsaturn7085 View Post
Slight correction: the bearing race is held in place with a retainer. The shape of the bearings and race locate the bearing, and the axle and axle nut are what provides retention and preloading.

Thank you. I feel better about it now.
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Old 07-21-2015, 03:20 PM   #763
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Really wish there was a video/walkthrough of this being done on an 08+. I can't find any
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Old 11-20-2015, 10:33 AM   #764
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Default Great write up

I'm gonna press my bearing in today. My one question is with the oem bearing I got from the dealer has one one side shallower to the yellow center than the other side. Which side goes toward the knuckle? I know it may be obvious but I just want to know for sure. This is on a 2003 wrx

Last edited by Fromctoz; 11-20-2015 at 11:06 AM.
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Old 11-20-2015, 11:19 AM   #765
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It doesnt matter, the plastic retainer goes in the trash.
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Old 11-20-2015, 11:41 AM   #766
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It doesnt matter, the plastic retainer goes in the trash.
Lol! Thanks. I should have guessed. I tried going the cheap way at first by buying an aftermarket one from Clarks auto but the height was .100 higher. Which blocked the retaining clip slot. $96 later I finally bought it from the dealer. Lesson learned.
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Old 02-04-2016, 08:13 AM   #767
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First, thanks for the great write up. Relatively easy process overall. However, I just pressed in a Beck Arnley 0514012 and it is too tall. Even when fully seated against the machined lip, the recess for the snap ring is behind the bearing; can't install the snap ring. No good. Apparently I just need to use the OEM bearing. (2003 Outback H4). Hope this saves someone some time.
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Old 02-04-2016, 09:30 AM   #768
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Afcope View Post
First, thanks for the great write up. Relatively easy process overall. However, I just pressed in a Beck Arnley 0514012 and it is too tall. Even when fully seated against the machined lip, the recess for the snap ring is behind the bearing; can't install the snap ring. No good. Apparently I just need to use the OEM bearing. (2003 Outback H4). Hope this saves someone some time.
That's really odd. I've never used an OE bearing, and Beck Arnley is a common replacement. I'd return it, despite the fact that it will be wrecked.
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Old 02-04-2016, 04:53 PM   #769
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I have been plagued by this problem in the past. It's so annoying. Thanks for the step by step.
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Old 02-29-2016, 11:40 PM   #770
Nikkoli8025
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Default Nice, but before I begin...

When taking the Knuckle bolts off do I have to worry about compressing the springs? Sorry I am not exactly an experienced mechanic...
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Old 03-01-2016, 03:01 AM   #771
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Originally Posted by Nikkoli8025 View Post
When taking the Knuckle bolts off do I have to worry about compressing the springs? Sorry I am not exactly an experienced mechanic...

No you don't.

Please read through the procedure several more times to make sure you got it. It's not that hard. I think most people can do it as long as you have the proper tools, take your time and perhaps ask for some help from someone more mechanically inclined.

Good luck.
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Old 04-28-2016, 11:45 PM   #772
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Default 2001 Subaru RS Front Wheel Bearing Torque Specs

Here is the info I found from the Subaru factory Specification catalog for the front end.


Axle Nut: 137 ftlb
Speed Sensor: 24 ftlb
Steering Rod at Hub - catle nut: 20 ftlb
Lower Strut Bolts: 112 ftlb
Caliper Bolts: 58 ftlb
Dust guard bolts: 13 ftlb

Last edited by thielni; 04-28-2016 at 11:45 PM. Reason: type
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Old 01-16-2017, 05:28 PM   #773
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Hey guys I need a little help. The outer bearing race is stuck and I just want to confirm that to press it out I will pressing it from the outside in (towards the axle away from the wheel)?
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Old 01-16-2017, 05:53 PM   #774
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Originally Posted by STIinthefe View Post
Hey guys I need a little help. The outer bearing race is stuck and I just want to confirm that to press it out I will pressing it from the outside in (towards the axle away from the wheel)?


Yup got it. that's the only way.
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Old 01-16-2017, 08:03 PM   #775
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I have the hub reassembled with brand new parts. Is it normal for the hub to have play? There is a little bit of in and out play now that everything is assembled and I did not really notice of the original had any play. Thanks for any answers.
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