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Old 09-21-2018, 10:27 PM   #51
newbie02
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Originally Posted by snow_bound26 View Post
Nameless doesn't make anything for the GD chassis any more as far as I know. If it has an aftermarket intake and/or down pipe then it should also be tuned for them. Did the car some with an Access Port? Did he say anything about it being tuned? These are important because they can negative effects on your car if not tuned for.

If you lived closer I'd show you how fast a pro tuned stage 2 plus feels in the canyons. I'm in Salt Lake City for the winter so if you find yourself there for a ski trip let me know and I'll take you for a ride. Though it won't be stage 2 at that point any more.


No it didnít come with an access port and he didnít say anything about it being tuned,but he did have maintenance records for almost every couple thousand miles but idk,Iíll have to check it thoroughly..the tunes are around $400 yes?depending where I go and thanks for the invite fam but I donít think Iíll go up there anytime soon,only time I leave state is when I go to Vegas for a couple days lmao
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Old 09-21-2018, 10:51 PM   #52
snow_bound26
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Originally Posted by newbie02 View Post
No it didnít come with an access port and he didnít say anything about it being tuned,but he did have maintenance records for almost every couple thousand miles but idk,Iíll have to check it thoroughly..the tunes are around $400 yes?depending where I go and thanks for the invite fam but I donít think Iíll go up there anytime soon,only time I leave state is when I go to Vegas for a couple days lmao


Cost depends on shop and tuning device. Cobb Access Port (AP) is most popular. Comes with Off The Shelf (OTS) maps. It those need to be followed very closely. Deviating from their requirements will require a Pro Tune or E Tune. These can be done with either an AP or Open Source software. Some tuners will only use APs and potentially require the newest version. Some will do either of the above mentioned. Open Source tends to be more expensive. E Tuning is cheaper but has certain draw backs since you are doing it at your own risk on public roads (which makes it the risk of everyone in the vicinity if you're being stupid). Dyno Tuning is more expensive but no risk on public roads. If you can contact the previous owner you could always ask if he had it tuned.
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Old 09-21-2018, 10:59 PM   #53
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Cost depends on shop and tuning device. Cobb Access Port (AP) is most popular. Comes with Off The Shelf (OTS) maps. It those need to be followed very closely. Deviating from their requirements will require a Pro Tune or E Tune. These can be done with either an AP or Open Source software. Some tuners will only use APs and potentially require the newest version. Some will do either of the above mentioned. Open Source tends to be more expensive. E Tuning is cheaper but has certain draw backs since you are doing it at your own risk on public roads (which makes it the risk of everyone in the vicinity if you're being stupid). Dyno Tuning is more expensive but no risk on public roads. If you can contact the previous owner you could always ask if he had it tuned.


alright fasho..Iíll invest my money into the cobb AP n go from there,takin it slowly n smart,thanks again man
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Old 09-21-2018, 11:04 PM   #54
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I have a different question now lol..I was looking at wanting to get sum work meisters s1 3 piece but they mad expensive ...do you guys have any suggestions of name brand wheels that are reliable but wonít run up my pockets,ik a couple brands but Iíd like to hear from your guys own experience
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Old 09-21-2018, 11:14 PM   #55
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I have a different question now lol..I was looking at wanting to get sum work meisters s1 3 piece but they mad expensive ...do you guys have any suggestions of name brand wheels that are reliable but wonít run up my pockets,ik a couple brands but Iíd like to hear from your guys own experience


Enkei, OZ, Method, Rota, Konig are some options. Both Enkei and OZ have proven race heritage. Method are popular among rally teams. Rota and Konig are less expensive but have been safe choices. Did you say if it's a wagon or a sedan? Makes a difference for clearance reasons.
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Old 09-21-2018, 11:21 PM   #56
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Enkei, OZ, Method, Rota, Konig are some options. Both Enkei and OZ have proven race heritage. Method are popular among rally teams. Rota and Konig are less expensive but have been safe choices. Did you say if it's a wagon or a sedan? Makes a difference for clearance reasons.


itís a sedan lol my bad...and the OEM wheels I have rn sit inside the fenders a bit..would I have to have a bigger offset or lower so they could stick out a bit more,I get confused w that..just so that they are aligned w the fenders
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Old 09-21-2018, 11:30 PM   #57
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Keeping it close to OE offset is less wear on your hubs and bearings. 17x8 +45 is a popular size and can take up to a 245/40 tire. That will fill the fender quite well. Going wider may require rolling the fenders. Don't know about 18" fitment since I prefer 17" myself. What it really comes down to is do you want performance or looks? One will always compromise the other to a certain extent. Lighter weight is better for handling and wear on suspension parts but usually costs more. The Enkei RPF1 is a good compromise. Looks good on the GD chassis, is light weight, has a good motor sports history, and comes in several colors.
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Old 09-21-2018, 11:43 PM   #58
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Keeping it close to OE offset is less wear on your hubs and bearings. 17x8 +45 is a popular size and can take up to a 245/40 tire. That will fill the fender quite well. Going wider may require rolling the fenders. Don't know about 18" fitment since I prefer 17" myself. What it really comes down to is do you want performance or looks? One will always compromise the other to a certain extent. Lighter weight is better for handling and wear on suspension parts but usually costs more. The Enkei RPF1 is a good compromise. Looks good on the GD chassis, is light weight, has a good motor sports history, and comes in several colors.


welll I donít wanna go too much on looks,the wheels is just probably the only thing I wanna do for cosmetics,I like how it looks like w stock body...but ayee thanks bro
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Old 09-22-2018, 03:46 AM   #59
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yea I get you,Iím not ina rush to do anything to it,but I do eventually want to do stuff to it but thanks tho,that gave me a better understanding of whatís required
I get you, that is what I did, something to realize as well with 500hp you are looking at at least a gtx3076 that will not spool til mid to late 4000'S
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Old 09-22-2018, 12:43 PM   #60
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I get you, that is what I did, something to realize as well with 500hp you are looking at at least a gtx3076 that will not spool til mid to late 4000'S


Ayee aight thanks for letting me know,that goin be way down the road lmaoo but tnx!
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Old 09-24-2018, 04:12 PM   #61
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Yeah, sorry to be the bearer of bad news on the pricing front. Doubling or tripling+ the stock output is generally a pricy undertaking, and with these engines they are especially pricy on the labor front - and it appears when modifying cars to that extent, the actual money spent tends to be much higher than anticipated spending. The Subaru-specific tuner shop near me (IAG Performance) has done quite a few builds well over 500 WHP, some of which are daily driven, and some of which owners have daily driven for tens of thousands of miles over multiple years. That said, I've observed that a large bulk of the people building these cars to the 500-1,000+ WHP range are generally going to use them as a second car and primarily a track toy.
This. Enter me. Engine built... good for about 600-650 (crank). Would put down 500 to the wheels. The long block alone is a 6K affair. Proper turbo, manifolds, exhaust, intake.. 5K. 6 speed with new clutch and flywheel... $4500. There's $15,500 for you, not including the AP, tuning, injectors, fuel pump, ECBC, all the new hoses, brakes, etc. That's why you're at 15-20K.
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