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Old 03-24-2017, 01:11 PM   #26
uofime
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welllllllll after picking up my new brake pads, lines and radiator last night it just seemed silly not to go ahead and order the rest of the parts I need for my track day prep. So I finally dropped the hefty chunk of change to get all the main parts for my oil cooler set up.

Now all there is left to do is wait for brown santa....





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Old 03-24-2017, 01:38 PM   #27
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Aw come on man, that's like telling a joke without the punchline! What's on your Christmas list?

And a new radiator too?
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Old 03-24-2017, 02:19 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Chuckable View Post
Aw come on man, that's like telling a joke without the punchline! What's on your Christmas list?

And a new radiator too?
you still have the link to my BOM I PM's you a while ago don't you? The BOM was updated, just changed to the high temp sandwich plate and upped it to 4 feet of firesleeve.

prolly should have ordered some P-clips too.... ah well I've got Prime for that.

I've been planning the radiator since like the second post I might be slow, but I do follow my plans (eventually at least)
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Old 03-24-2017, 02:37 PM   #29
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PM'd you.
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Old 03-30-2017, 02:11 PM   #30
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Most of the parts for my oil cooler have shown up, save one 90deg fitting that got back ordered.


Received the bracket first, it is aluminum and lighter than it looks. It has some nice rubber foam on it for vibration isolation. I was a little disappointed that a couple of the threads on the nut plates have have burrs on one end that made the screws not want to thread smoothly, but a little forcefull threading seems to have cleaned them up with out stripping anything.



Recieved the most of the plumbing yesterday. Looks like they used some kind of shear to cut the lines to length which you are not supposed to do because it completely smashes the line, makes the fittings not go in well and can cause sealing issues. Not a huge deal since there should be some spare line and I can just cut a new end, but a little disappointing.

The fittings are all really nice pieces, seem very well made.

The plate is kind of funny, it looks like it was sand casted with some secondary operations to clean up the interfaces. Couple of sharp edges/burrs where the fluid lines come into the housing. They can be cleaned up easily.



The core is really a thing of beauty, really solid, nice piece. In order to continue my theme of complaints, one of the stickers was a little crooked

Test fitted the adapter fittings and hose end. These things are all bigger than I expected. -10 AN lines are huuuge (sharpie for scale)



I kind of knew line routing was going to be a little bit finicky from my Cardboard Aided Design template(visible beneath the core above to prove I didn't screw that up ) I test fit months ago. I ordered the 90deg ends because I figured that would give me a little flexibility to not shoot straight into the center support of the radiator, but now I'm questioning that decision.
Only time will tell I suppose, hopefully I can find that time this weekend.
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Old 03-30-2017, 05:42 PM   #31
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Appreciate the update, and hope you get the missing fitting to you in time to work on the project this weekend

Last edited by Chuckable; 03-30-2017 at 07:02 PM.
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Old 03-31-2017, 11:28 AM   #32
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Went ahead and ordered the rivnut gun, a bunch of stainless 1/4-20 nutserts and a handful of cushioned P-clips.

I can already see myself cursing the thing trying to get in to have room to run the action... maybe I'll end up putting them in backwards from the top and bottom

Went to the Homeless Despot to cobble together some hardware, found they actually had the cushioned P-clamps that I'd ordered for a very reasonable price and that they didn't really have the hardware I wanted... figures. Might end up ordering it off McMaster Carr once I figure out what I need length wise. I work right up the street from their main warehouse and they allow pickups so that shouldn't be a big deal.

This would all be easier if I didn't have a fetish for fine hardware, socket head screws are my favorite and living in the salt belt means I'd really like it all to be stainless.

They've got all kinds of little angle brackets and some aluminum spacers that I'm thinking might be handy for cobbling the rest of this thing together. Hopefully I don't get too drunk tonight and can convince my girl to go shopping or something tomorrow so I can scrounge up a little time in the shop with my buddies.

Things to Do:
  1. Install ComC strut tops
  2. Get an alignment
  3. Measure camber curve
  4. Install radiator
  5. Test fit oil cooler, plan mounting
  6. Fab mounts and install cooler
  7. Change spark plugs
  8. Install new brake lines and flush fluid
  9. Install GR STI front sway bar
  10. Change oil
  11. Re-torque transmission subframe bolts
  12. Buy new wheels and tires/ swap old ones back on
  13. Oil pressure gauge?

Weekends Before Memorial Day
  1. 4/1 Open
  2. 4/8 Help with clutch job
  3. 4/15 Easter
  4. 4/22 Open (maybe)
  5. 4/29 Birthday
  6. 5/6 Open
  7. 5/13 NASCAR track experience
  8. 5/20 Vacation
  9. 5/27 Track day!

Yessssss, lots to do and not a lot of time to do it...
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Old 03-31-2017, 12:48 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uofime View Post
Most of the parts for my oil cooler have shown up, save one 90deg fitting that got back ordered.


Received the bracket first, it is aluminum and lighter than it looks. It has some nice rubber foam on it for vibration isolation. I was a little disappointed that a couple of the threads on the nut plates have have burrs on one end that made the screws not want to thread smoothly, but a little forcefull threading seems to have cleaned them up with out stripping anything.



Recieved the most of the plumbing yesterday. Looks like they used some kind of shear to cut the lines to length which you are not supposed to do because it completely smashes the line, makes the fittings not go in well and can cause sealing issues. Not a huge deal since there should be some spare line and I can just cut a new end, but a little disappointing.

The fittings are all really nice pieces, seem very well made.

The plate is kind of funny, it looks like it was sand casted with some secondary operations to clean up the interfaces. Couple of sharp edges/burrs where the fluid lines come into the housing. They can be cleaned up easily.



The core is really a thing of beauty, really solid, nice piece. In order to continue my theme of complaints, one of the stickers was a little crooked

Test fitted the adapter fittings and hose end. These things are all bigger than I expected. -10 AN lines are huuuge (sharpie for scale)



I kind of knew line routing was going to be a little bit finicky from my Cardboard Aided Design template(visible beneath the core above to prove I didn't screw that up ) I test fit months ago. I ordered the 90deg ends because I figured that would give me a little flexibility to not shoot straight into the center support of the radiator, but now I'm questioning that decision.
Only time will tell I suppose, hopefully I can find that time this weekend.
Are you mounting this in place of your TMIC? if so will you be fabbing a bracket to reinstall the engine cover?
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Old 03-31-2017, 01:52 PM   #34
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Are you mounting this in place of your TMIC? if so will you be fabbing a bracket to reinstall the engine cover?
No, I'm still running the stock TMIC for now so its going right in front of the radiator.
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Old 04-01-2017, 08:22 AM   #35
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I have a Mishimoto TMIC with charge pipe and hardware for sale if interested... I want to do an oil cooler too but want to place it in the TMIC location and conceal it under the engine cover for an OEM look.
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Old 04-03-2017, 12:14 PM   #36
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With most of my parts in hand it was time to begin figuring out how exactly they are going to fit on the car. I didnít entirely go ordering parts blind, I had made templates out of cardboard to make sure that the core would fit and a user on NASIOC had confirmed that the sandwich plate I was using would fit with only small modifications, but as with most things the devil is in the details. Therefor my plan this weekend was just to get in there and figure out what all was needed to make it happen, that way I didnít go off buying a bunch of hardware and raw materials that were totally unnecessary or not even possible to use (though I did some of that anyway). Without further delay, on to the pictures!



Had to remove the crash bar to get the core in, but it isnít going to interfere with anything once its all mounted.



Nothing great to mount to above.



Plenty of meat to bolt to below



Overall the core fits... OK



Thereís a little bit of interference here with a bracket



A little precision grinding with a carbide burr fixed the clearance issue here. I think just a straight piece of strap will work for mounting here.



The upper fitting wants to occupy the nearly same space as the hood latch. There's not a whole lot I can do about that, the mount is just going to have to be made to stand the core off from the condenser core here.

It also looks like it makes sense to use a straight fitting at the bottom as there is plenty of clearance with the center support and that will aim the hose towards where I plan to rout it to get under hood. Iíll need to order that.




Easy mounting on both sides of the bottom with a simple "L" bracket.

(continued on part 2 below)
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Old 04-03-2017, 12:30 PM   #37
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fitting the cooler part 2: lines and sandwich plate.




This is the easy, obvious option. It has a lot of extra line dangling out there to loop around the washer fluid bottle. Not in love with it.





Here's a couple more options. Going in at the top is really tight, the condenser core is slightly angled. That means that the bottom is an easier fit. That also give an angle up that should work with for getting the fittings up, into the sandwich plate. It is still going to be really tight, expecailly with the chunky hose ends installed, but that is part of why I ordered the firebraid. At least the lines certainly won't want to be moving around and the install should be nice and clean to where the car maintains a stock appearance which I would prefer.



From the forum post I knew the stock heat exchanger would need trimmed, but that was a bit of an understatement. Subaru gives you a nice little lip on here to keep oil from dripping everywhere when you pull the filter off, unfortunately that massively interferes with the sandwich plate that wants to hang off in the front for the fittings and at the back for the thermostat housing.
To trim this I had to pull the whole exchanger off then attempt to mask it off then go at it with a zip wheel, it probably would have been easier to just cut the whole lip off, but for some reason that didnít occur to me at the time. After the cutting I blasted the crap out of it with brakleen to remove the shavings then dumped cheap oil through it to get rid of any brakleen or missed shaving. That was way more of a pain than I expected, but it is taken care of now and the sandwich plate fits ( you'll have to take my word because I neglected to take a picture of that).

Now I have a clear path forward, I know how all of this should fit and what parts I need to buy to make that happen. Now there's nothing to it but to do it! (hopefully)
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Old 04-03-2017, 01:24 PM   #38
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Blazing a new trail ain't easy, but the pics and description are great! That core looks pretty massive - like nearly 1/2 the size of the condenser. Do you have any concern about impeding airflow to the condenser and radiator?

How well is the condenser sealed to the core support? Any possibility for improvements?

Great work!

Last edited by Chuckable; 04-03-2017 at 01:57 PM.
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Old 04-03-2017, 02:02 PM   #39
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Quote:
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Blazing a new trail ain't easy, but the pics and description are great! That core looks pretty massive - like nearly 1/2 the size of the condenser. Do you have any concern about impeding airflow to the condenser and radiator?

And what about the mounting bracket you bought with the cooler? Not going to use it anymore it looks like. Assuming so, how are you planning on isolating the chassis vibration from the core?

Great work!
Yeah, it's definitely not a small core
It's definitely not doing the rest of the cooling system any favors being stacked up there, but I'm not the first person to run an arrangement like this.
I have an upgraded Koyorad in my trunk that is going to be installed as well which should help the water out.
Also one of the reason I wanted a high quality core was to mimimize the pressure drop across the air side as well.

That is the mounting bracket you see in the picture, they are just glorified aluminum angle brackets with holes and foam rubber tape on them. From above here is the core with then without them:



They're rather simple and quite expensive for what they are, but they're definitely helpful!
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Old 04-06-2017, 10:58 AM   #40
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Blew like 50$ at the hardware store on stainless fasteners, aluminum strapping material and some rubber foam to hopefully have enough material for mounting the core.

Yesterday my straight fitting showed up as well, I was luck it was available on amazon prime, can't beat free 2 day shipping.

On an unrelated note the car passed a milestone yesterday:

So, the car is now ruined, expect the part out soon...
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Old 04-06-2017, 11:01 AM   #41
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So, the car is now ruined, expect the part out soon...


I'll take the oil cooler
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Old 04-13-2017, 01:21 PM   #42
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Mishimoto reports a 5 psi decrease in oil pressure with their kit. Any thoughts on how your setup may affect oil pressure?

From speaking to Element Tuning, they have concerns about proper oil pressure in the FA engine, and state that they have proprietary methods to increase oil pressure in their engines versus other builders.
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Old 04-13-2017, 01:56 PM   #43
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Mishimoto reports a 5 psi decrease in oil pressure with their kit. Any thoughts on how your setup may affect oil pressure?

From speaking to Element Tuning, they have concerns about proper oil pressure in the FA engine, and state that they have proprietary methods to increase oil pressure in their engines versus other builders.
Yup, I've read through Element tuning's stuff. I am aware FA's suffer pressure issues from a lack of bearing oiling priority in the block design.

Their "proprietary" techniques are certainly of interest. you really cannot change the oiling priority in the block, the galleries are cast into it. You could run a line directly from the pump to elsewhere on the block, but that doesn't sound like what they're doing. I assume they are trying to change the pressure in the oil galleries by adding restrictors to areas they assume don't need oil as much or more likely opening up galleries that need more oil.

That's one reason I have an oil pressure gauge on my list. On that note from a recent conversation with my tuner I learned that you can log through the AccessPort additional gauges that have a 0-5v output by wiring them to an unused ECU input ( TGV L/R, secondary O2) and then setting the calibration curve up in ATR. That's awesome because it means I don't need any min max features on the gauge and I don't have to try to look at it while driving hard to test the system. I can just look at it in a log later.

In hard use the cooler should actually help pressures because as the oil gets hot and thins out and you loose pressure, but If you keep the temp to 220F that concern is reduced.

In addition to the cooler I'm running a heavier 5w40 oil for track days which will also help maintain pressure.
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Old 04-13-2017, 02:16 PM   #44
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I'd read about using unused inputs as well, but hearing it again is great confirmation. I think that may be how the updated Delicious flex fuel system interfaces with the AP.

In any case, your guesses about Element make sense. Who knows though. They say it's not simply shimming the pump for increased pressure, so opening up the ports or restricting flow is a likely way to go.

That's a good point about higher temps resulting in lower oil pressure. There's a long post on one of the FRS/BRZ forums with track data concerning oil viscosity, oil temp, and pressure.
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Old 04-13-2017, 02:32 PM   #45
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Quote:
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I'd read about using unused inputs as well, but hearing it again is great confirmation. I think that may be how the updated Delicious flex fuel system interfaces with the AP.

In any case, your guesses about Element make sense. Who knows though. They say it's not simply shimming the pump for increased pressure, so opening up the ports or restricting flow is a likely way to go.

That's a good point about higher temps resulting in lower oil pressure. There's a long post on one of the FRS/BRZ forums with track data concerning oil viscosity, oil temp, and pressure.
I knew it was possible, but I didn't know it was so easy. I figured you'd have to pull the raw data and do the conversion from Volts to pressure as a seperate operation in Excel or some such. Nope AP will do it all, you can add it as a monitor like DAM, FKL or anything else.

Now I'm wondering if I can find a sending unit that will directly output the 0-5V signal and I can avoid having to buy and mount a gauge entirely.

Even the wiring would be easy, there a thread on making a DIY flex fuel sensor there that says you can get the pigtail for the tgv as ORielleys for like 5 bucks.

Easy. Cheap. Unobtrusive and clean. Sounds like a winning solution to me!
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Old 04-13-2017, 02:57 PM   #46
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http://www.aemelectronics.com/produc...l-psig-sensors

Here's an AEM sensor with 0.5-4.5v DC output.
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Old 04-13-2017, 03:36 PM   #47
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http://www.aemelectronics.com/produc...l-psig-sensors

Here's an AEM sensor with 0.5-4.5v DC output.
Thanks, good find!

The brass ones look perfect and reasonably priced!

Don't really need fraction of a second response time of the stainless ones to run a simple gauge.

Part Number: 30-2131-100 - 100 PSIg Brass Sensor Kit. Brass Sensor Body. 1/8" NPT Male Thread. Includes: 100 PSIg Brass Sensor, Connector & Pins
Price: $67.38
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Old 04-13-2017, 04:11 PM   #48
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So this with the KillerB adapter, or somewhere else in the oil cooler plumbing?

And a TGV pigtail?

And that's it? Oil pressure on the AP?

Can it really be that simple?
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Old 04-14-2017, 05:59 PM   #49
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So this with the KillerB adapter, or somewhere else in the oil cooler plumbing?

And a TGV pigtail?

And that's it? Oil pressure on the AP?

Can it really be that simple?
Gotta double check the pin outs to make sure the right power is there for the sensor, but that's how Cobb does their fuel pressure sensor for the GR flex fuel kits so I'm pretty sure it will be just that easy.

I've gotta do a little research/ asking around on where the best place to monitor pressure is, but yeah that killerb T seems like the most probable solution.

Really hoping it is that easy, but it almost seems wrong for it to be!
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Old 04-14-2017, 08:38 PM   #50
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Yeah, figure that Subaru knows where in the oil circuit to put a pressure sensor, so the KillerB adapter seems to make the most sense. Otherwise, it'd be the oil filter sandwich plate or perhaps somewhere in supplemental oil cooler lines.
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