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Old 06-25-2008, 05:11 AM   #1
bmw50021
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Default amsoil severe gear or dino?

through my research here ive come to the conclusion that i will either use amsoil severe gear 75w-90 in my 5mt or regular gl-5 75w-90 dino. i don't have any problems at all, other than a very occasional downshift grind, probably due to user error. i just want to replace the tranny fluid as its low right now. anybody have any recommendations for either?
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Old 06-25-2008, 08:30 AM   #2
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I've been using the severe gear for about 6 months now and it's been great so far. If you search around, you will find a lot of other people running this gear oil and enjoying it as well. It even made shifting into first a lot smoother and easier on my car. I say go with it, try it out and see if you like it. You can always switch to something else later if it doesn't sit well with your transmission, but from all the positive posts I've seen I think you will like it.
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Old 06-25-2008, 08:38 AM   #3
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I have been using amsoil serere gear for 29 years; it works.
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Old 06-25-2008, 12:19 PM   #4
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Just ordered 4qts. of the Amsoil SG this morning. Gonna swap out the USC and see how it goes.
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Old 06-25-2008, 01:00 PM   #5
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Is the Amsoil stuff better than Redline gear fluid?
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Old 06-25-2008, 04:51 PM   #6
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no first hand experience yet, but ive read nothing but praises for severe gear on here. i ran straight redline lightweight shockproof and i wasnt overly impressed.
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Old 06-25-2008, 05:34 PM   #7
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anybody have any experience with the subaru extra-s? it is referred to as "liquid gold", and from what i read, it yields the smoothest shifts possible out of any fluid ever used in these trannys.
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Old 06-25-2008, 06:29 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw50021 View Post
anybody have any experience with the subaru extra-s? it is referred to as "liquid gold", and from what i read, it yields the smoothest shifts possible out of any fluid ever used in these trannys.
I'm interested to hear about this. I need smoother shifts.
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Old 06-25-2008, 10:58 PM   #9
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+1 for Amsoil. Earlier today I had Precision Tuning change my tranny/diff oil with Amsoil Severe Gear. The difference is amazing, the tranny feels smoother than I ever thought possible.
I have been using Amsoil products for years in my cars & motorcycles and swear by all of their products. Everything I run Amsoil in runs smoother / quieter / cooler / and stronger. All of my friends thought I was full of S**t until they tried it for themselves.
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Old 06-26-2008, 08:33 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonJitsu View Post
+1 for Amsoil. Earlier today I had Precision Tuning change my tranny/diff oil with Amsoil Severe Gear. The difference is amazing, the tranny feels smoother than I ever thought possible.
I have been using Amsoil products for years in my cars & motorcycles and swear by all of their products. Everything I run Amsoil in runs smoother / quieter / cooler / and stronger. All of my friends thought I was full of S**t until they tried it for themselves.
Well with that said, I may go with Amsoil Severe gear. If you drain the tranny for a hour, how much fluid will it hold?
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Old 06-26-2008, 09:48 AM   #11
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i think im going with subaru extra-s in bulk. on 1stsubaruparts.com, with shipping, it works out to $7.00/quart. severe gear is about $12.00 a quart where i found it online. im wondering which fluid holds up better in the long term. i hear that both make the 5mt about as smooth as possible, maybe the extra-s a little more so.
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Old 06-26-2008, 10:38 AM   #12
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i don't think you'd be disappointed with either one!

i found a local napa that carries SG for $10 and some change...before that was considering motul.

T
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Old 06-26-2008, 11:30 AM   #13
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Shamrock - the 5mt is supposed to hold 3.8 qts, but after a complete drain at Precision Tuning, mine only took 3.5 qts to fill it. So I'd say add an initial 3.4 or so qts and then check it. Be sure to check it after you drive it for a few mins, as the level will most likely drop a bit.
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Old 06-26-2008, 06:07 PM   #14
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Cool, thanks. So the Amsoil stuff is the best ehhh. Cause like I said I want to get rid of the notchieness feeling
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Old 06-26-2008, 07:55 PM   #15
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Yea the Amsoil made my tranny feel much more smooth. I'm very happy with mine. Post up your initial thoughts on it once you change it.
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Old 06-27-2008, 03:44 AM   #16
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Well, a lot of the feel is just how the tranny behaves. There's nothing that will get rid of the physical design of the transmission. What you can fix however is the slop and mush in the shifter by upgrading front and rear shifter bushings. As well, you can upgrade engine and tranny mounts (plus crossmembers and pitch mount) to lock down the engine and tranny to the car. This prevents almost all of the free movement of the engine and transmission during accel/brake/turning that moves the shifter position around. One big bonus with upgrading these mounts is the gain in feel. You can actually feel the engine. I don't know if you've ever killed your engine before, but if you don't give the car enough gas, it's pretty easy to kill the engine. The problem is, with the stock mushy rubber bits, you can't feel anything. By the time you notice you didn't give enough gas, the engine's already dead. With the upgraded rubber bits, everything is direct and instant. You can feel the engine sputter and you can catch yourself right away.

All gear oil will do is influence syncro behavior. If the viscosity is too low, the syncros will not have enough friction and not spin up well, leading to slower shifts and grinding. The hard part is finding an oil that the syncros are very happy with. If you want to go synthetic, it seems to be somewhat a hit and miss as some options work poorly, some work ok, and only a couple work very well. Amsoil Severe Gear is one that works very well. I also assume Subaru's Super-S, Extra-S, called something like that, works very well too. I assume this is Subaru's synthetic version for colder climates. I use Amsoil in mine and have done so for around 50k miles.

As far as specifically the notchiness, consider using a heavier weight shift knob. As well, you might consider stepping back to the original shifter if you are using a short shifter. The added weight dampens some of the smaller feelings of the transmission and creates a smoother, lighter throw feel. The only problem is there are not a lot of heavy weight knobs around. Greddy has their Counterweight knob which is made of stainless steel. Most aftermarket ones are actually lighter. If you feel like a custom job, look up WRXDrifter and his company Lathe Werks:
http://lathewerks.com/
Have him fashion one up for you in a heafty stainless steel.

About the only other thing I will suggest for shifting is to look at the rear diff. Upgrade the rear bushings and front outrigger bushings of the rear diff. All the driveline slop you feel is 90% the rear diff's fault. The mushy stock rubber bits allows the diff to twist and move around immensely, making for a very sloppy and very vague feel for power delivery, i.e. the engine doesn't feel connected directly to the ground. As well, the clutch doesn't feel directly connected to the engine and neither does the throttle response. Everything is isolated, delayed, and mushy. Upgrading these bushings syncs everything together where the engine feels very direct with the tires and road and the clutch is very direct with the engine. It helps quite a bit for feel of the clutch and actually knowing how the clutch is engaging and how the power is being put to the ground.

If you've noticed, the whole shifting action is a sum of many parts, each with their own characteristic influence. You just have to figure out which specific aspects you want to improve and do so. Or, you could do them all.
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Old 06-27-2008, 06:23 AM   #17
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Back Road Runner - we think alike. on top of using the Amsoil Severe Gear, I also have a weighted knob from WC lathewerks, as well as the upgraded shifter/bushings, and the upgraded rear diff bushings. All installed with the help of the WRXdrifter himself! (he is my cousin)
Very good explanation btw!
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Old 06-27-2008, 08:16 AM   #18
shamrock 05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Back Road Runner View Post
Well, a lot of the feel is just how the tranny behaves. There's nothing that will get rid of the physical design of the transmission. What you can fix however is the slop and mush in the shifter by upgrading front and rear shifter bushings. As well, you can upgrade engine and tranny mounts (plus crossmembers and pitch mount) to lock down the engine and tranny to the car. This prevents almost all of the free movement of the engine and transmission during accel/brake/turning that moves the shifter position around. One big bonus with upgrading these mounts is the gain in feel. You can actually feel the engine. I don't know if you've ever killed your engine before, but if you don't give the car enough gas, it's pretty easy to kill the engine. The problem is, with the stock mushy rubber bits, you can't feel anything. By the time you notice you didn't give enough gas, the engine's already dead. With the upgraded rubber bits, everything is direct and instant. You can feel the engine sputter and you can catch yourself right away.

All gear oil will do is influence syncro behavior. If the viscosity is too low, the syncros will not have enough friction and not spin up well, leading to slower shifts and grinding. The hard part is finding an oil that the syncros are very happy with. If you want to go synthetic, it seems to be somewhat a hit and miss as some options work poorly, some work ok, and only a couple work very well. Amsoil Severe Gear is one that works very well. I also assume Subaru's Super-S, Extra-S, called something like that, works very well too. I assume this is Subaru's synthetic version for colder climates. I use Amsoil in mine and have done so for around 50k miles.

As far as specifically the notchiness, consider using a heavier weight shift knob. As well, you might consider stepping back to the original shifter if you are using a short shifter. The added weight dampens some of the smaller feelings of the transmission and creates a smoother, lighter throw feel. The only problem is there are not a lot of heavy weight knobs around. Greddy has their Counterweight knob which is made of stainless steel. Most aftermarket ones are actually lighter. If you feel like a custom job, look up WRXDrifter and his company Lathe Werks:
http://lathewerks.com/
Have him fashion one up for you in a heafty stainless steel.

About the only other thing I will suggest for shifting is to look at the rear diff. Upgrade the rear bushings and front outrigger bushings of the rear diff. All the driveline slop you feel is 90% the rear diff's fault. The mushy stock rubber bits allows the diff to twist and move around immensely, making for a very sloppy and very vague feel for power delivery, i.e. the engine doesn't feel connected directly to the ground. As well, the clutch doesn't feel directly connected to the engine and neither does the throttle response. Everything is isolated, delayed, and mushy. Upgrading these bushings syncs everything together where the engine feels very direct with the tires and road and the clutch is very direct with the engine. It helps quite a bit for feel of the clutch and actually knowing how the clutch is engaging and how the power is being put to the ground.

If you've noticed, the whole shifting action is a sum of many parts, each with their own characteristic influence. You just have to figure out which specific aspects you want to improve and do so. Or, you could do them all.

Very good info there, but I have one question.....I already changed the front shifter bushings and I have the rear one from Kartboy. But where the hell does it go. Anyone have a pic. I plan on installing it this weekend, but cant seem to find where it goes (shifter bushing that is)
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Old 06-27-2008, 10:33 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shamrock 05 View Post
Very good info there, but I have one question.....I already changed the front shifter bushings and I have the rear one from Kartboy. But where the hell does it go. Anyone have a pic. I plan on installing it this weekend, but cant seem to find where it goes (shifter bushing that is)
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sho...hifter+bushing

Just follow the shifter rod under the car going towards the rear until it stops and you will see it. It's a tight squeeze but pretty easy once you get started on it.
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Old 06-27-2008, 10:38 AM   #20
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That bushing is the least fun to install, but its only a couple of bolts, so how bad can it possibly be.
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Old 06-27-2008, 10:43 AM   #21
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it's actually not so bad at all! tight space but if you're used to working in confined areas you'll be ok! just take your time!
but probably somewhere around installing fog light bulb on the 06-07...hahahha.

anyone also using the same 75-90 in the rear diff?
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Old 06-27-2008, 10:50 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steverx05 View Post
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sho...hifter+bushing

Just follow the shifter rod under the car going towards the rear until it stops and you will see it. It's a tight squeeze but pretty easy once you get started on it.


I read the scooby mod deal and one guy said that you may have to remove the exhaust heat shield. If I need top remove it, when I put everything back together, can I just leave it off?



One last question boys. I will drive the front up on ramps, but what is the best spot in the back to jack up the rear end. I have heard some say the rear diff, but I dont know.

Last edited by shamrock 05; 06-27-2008 at 11:00 AM.
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Old 06-27-2008, 11:14 AM   #23
Tahoe SC
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i didn't have to remove the exhaust shield, but it did cut me. be careful, it's sharp.

i had the front on ramps and didn't do anything to the rear. if you do need to jack up the rear, you can use the diff or the pinch welds.

T
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Old 06-27-2008, 01:11 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tahoe SC View Post
anyone also using the same 75-90 in the rear diff?
Me.
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