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Old 01-30-2020, 02:05 PM   #1
WolfPk
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OMGHi2U ej257 600+whp build?

as the title suggests im currently in the process of building an ej257, and i want to daily 600-650whp but be capable of 700-750 so that im not pushing the maximum constantly. i also want to set revs to 8k but im not sure what kind of rods/pistons would be good for this type of build.
i will be sending out my factory block to be closed deck serviced after i figure out what internals im going to get.

i was also thinking that id send out the heads to be serviced but i havent really found alot of info on what gets done to the heads to reinforce/get them prepped for higher hp/tq.

also not sure what kind of crankshaft. im doing the entire build myself so i just want to be sure the parts im buying are compatible and work with the build im trying to achieve, because theres so many different things like measurements, weight, and how reliable the part is. its one thing to be able to buy parts and slap them on but not knowing whats going into it will most likely lead to problems.

just want to know if anyone knows or has some advice on what parts i should be looking at.
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Old 01-31-2020, 12:07 AM   #2
Dave D.
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Here's an IAG block for example. 750 at the wheels is probably over 900chp.

https://www.rallysportdirect.com/par...ck-short-block
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Old 01-31-2020, 07:33 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by WolfPk View Post
as the title suggests im currently in the process of building an ej257, and i want to daily 600-650whp but be capable of 700-750 so that im not pushing the maximum constantly. i also want to set revs to 8k but im not sure what kind of rods/pistons would be good for this type of build.
i will be sending out my factory block to be closed deck serviced after i figure out what internals im going to get.

i was also thinking that id send out the heads to be serviced but i havent really found alot of info on what gets done to the heads to reinforce/get them prepped for higher hp/tq.

also not sure what kind of crankshaft. im doing the entire build myself so i just want to be sure the parts im buying are compatible and work with the build im trying to achieve, because theres so many different things like measurements, weight, and how reliable the part is. its one thing to be able to buy parts and slap them on but not knowing whats going into it will most likely lead to problems.

just want to know if anyone knows or has some advice on what parts i should be looking at.
How deep are your pockets? **** gets expensive, quick. I was in the same boat as you a few months back and was about to start building my stock EJ257 at home... Did a ton of research and I'm fairly confident I could've built the motor myself, but the cost that you save isn't that much relative to having a reputable shop build the block for you, as long as you're pulling the motor and doing all the dirty work yourself. I can tell you this, parts (not the engine) that you'll need to support this kind of power add up quickly! What turbo will you be running? E85 or pump? Unless you have the turbo to support those high revs, there's no point for an 8k rev limit, but if you do, at least S1/2 cams, valves and springs. Stock ej257 crankshaft can handle a lot of power. Personally, I'd give IAG a call, tell them your power goals and they will set you straight.

My IAG 900 long-block with fully built heads, PTE 6266 Turbo, ETS fmic, ID1700 injectors, fuel pumps, trip disc clutch, etc... it's over 20k and I'm still buying parts.
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Old 02-27-2020, 01:30 AM   #4
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i will most likely have to get a bigger turbo as you mentioned, right now im just focusing on getting the block where i need it, going to send it to get serviced, for a closed deck build, and possibly some work on the heads depending on what i find, firstly i need to find what internals i am getting so i can let the shop machining know what measurements they will need. i have an extra block from my old sti that was totaled so im fine building on it slowly, but right now im just in the process of trying to figure out what parts are best, i want to daily the 600whp probably 750whp capable so i want to make sure i get parts that will handle it as such. i dont want to cheap out on the build and get a few good pulls and repeat the process. nothing last forever but you can put a good effort to make it last as long as possible. and once it does go, most of the parts will be reusable. if you doing something might aswell do it right and enjoy it.
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Old 02-27-2020, 03:29 PM   #5
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Well I'd say you have a lot of reading to do and notes to take. A lot of us don't just hand out much info.

But I will say a few things. If done right and tuned right it can be done on stock halves. And 8k rpm just isn't going to happen unless you know what you're doing with the build.

Also if the shop measures your block they will know what pistons you'll need as far as bore goes. And like I said if it needs a bore just go buy new case halves. Or clean used ones very hard to find. I've been sitting on a set for about 4 years.
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Old 02-27-2020, 03:49 PM   #6
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i want to daily the 600whp probably 750whp capable
This statement is totally constructive and not trying to bust your balls:

Don't you think 600, let alone 750hp on this platform is simply out of the scope of what the platform will handle as a complete vehicle? Especially for a daily driver? And at the end of the day it might just be downright unpleasant to drive.

I get the ultra high power builds on the wrx/sti platform where ultimately the car will be a rocket as long as you just go 1/4 mile in a straight line, but a daily driver with that power that is enjoyable to drive is a completely different story.

I feel like the platform is kind of pushing it's limits around the 400hp mark.
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Old 02-27-2020, 04:08 PM   #7
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Was just about to say the something rtv900 said. 600+WHP and DD do not go side by side. For that power you will need to upgrade heads, cams, valves, valve springs, super heavy duty clutch, and a large turbo. All of that put together will make driving your car through town a living nightmare, trust me, i know, had that on my other project car and i hated it. I had 420WHP on my DD and i loved it. It almost felt like i would not want any more in a DD, it was just right.

The low RPMs and idle will be hell with the cams, clutch and large turbo. If you want to have a fun DD to drive i would do this. Build it for 450WHP tops and upgrade the suspensions and handling. Thats what i did and trust me, a 430WHP car that can handle well will out handle a 600WHP car any day. If you build for 450whp, you can take the money you saved and put it in your suspension, and braking system.

And yes, i would recommend getting a new short block from the dealer to start fresh. Or buy a already built block form any decent Eng builder like RalliSpec, IAG, ect...

Last edited by BlackFighter; 02-27-2020 at 04:14 PM.
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Old 02-27-2020, 06:16 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WolfPk View Post
as the title suggests im currently in the process of building an ej257, and i want to daily 600-650whp but be capable of 700-750 so that im not pushing the maximum constantly. i also want to set revs to 8k but im not sure what kind of rods/pistons would be good for this type of build.
i will be sending out my factory block to be closed deck serviced after i figure out what internals im going to get.

i was also thinking that id send out the heads to be serviced but i havent really found alot of info on what gets done to the heads to reinforce/get them prepped for higher hp/tq.

also not sure what kind of crankshaft. im doing the entire build myself so i just want to be sure the parts im buying are compatible and work with the build im trying to achieve, because theres so many different things like measurements, weight, and how reliable the part is. its one thing to be able to buy parts and slap them on but not knowing whats going into it will most likely lead to problems.

just want to know if anyone knows or has some advice on what parts i should be looking at.
your 600-700 hp engine probably is going to only last like a year.. just saying as far as turbo, your looking at a 6262 or larger on e85 running like 35lbs of boost. IF you still want to do it, best bet is to talk to iag and ask them how to get it... its proabaly going to be 15000 ish, then you have to worry about your trans and rear end

Or the alternative would be go h6 turbo you can get 600 with no problem but that will be around 20000 if done the right way
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Old 02-28-2020, 08:54 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by subaru_gc8 View Post
your 600-700 hp engine probably is going to only last like a year.. just saying as far as turbo, your looking at a 6262 or larger on e85 running like 35lbs of boost. IF you still want to do it, best bet is to talk to iag and ask them how to get it... its proabaly going to be 15000 ish, then you have to worry about your trans and rear end

Or the alternative would be go h6 turbo you can get 600 with no problem but that will be around 20000 if done the right way
I have way less then 15k into my build I did a the work myself. Besides the sleeving. And make that power at just 28psi

I can build up block for around 3k that can handle this power. Stock heads and cams will do it.
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Old 02-28-2020, 08:57 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackFighter View Post
Was just about to say the something rtv900 said. 600+WHP and DD do not go side by side. For that power you will need to upgrade heads, cams, valves, valve springs, super heavy duty clutch, and a large turbo. All of that put together will make driving your car through town a living nightmare, trust me, i know, had that on my other project car and i hated it. I had 420WHP on my DD and i loved it. It almost felt like i would not want any more in a DD, it was just right.

The low RPMs and idle will be hell with the cams, clutch and large turbo. If you want to have a fun DD to drive i would do this. Build it for 450WHP tops and upgrade the suspensions and handling. Thats what i did and trust me, a 430WHP car that can handle well will out handle a 600WHP car any day. If you build for 450whp, you can take the money you saved and put it in your suspension, and braking system.

And yes, i would recommend getting a new short block from the dealer to start fresh. Or buy a already built block form any decent Eng builder like RalliSpec, IAG, ect...
Nope stock heads and cams are proven to makes 650whp even 700 on another car I know of..

My car drives better then a factory STi. Great throttle response. 10psi by 3k rpm at 3k rpm I'm around like 300whp on the daily usage I keep it under 4k rpm unless someone in a hellcat wants the sauce.
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Old 02-28-2020, 09:11 AM   #11
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If he wants a DD, he wants a car that will last him. I want to see how long the stock valves will last him at 600-750whp. Yes they are proven but if you are going to throw that much money in to a project, you want to get as much out of it as you can.
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Old 02-28-2020, 11:47 AM   #12
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Ok. Here we go as I do this every single day.

Step 1) I need you to wholly and completely understand that a Subaru motor pushing this on a daily driver is a whole new level of maintenance and upkeep. This is not a setup where you turn up the radio and ignore a new sound. This is a setup where you stop, and do not drive it any more until you figure out the noise and correct it. Your normal maintenance needs to be spot on schedule, a reduced schedule vs a stock car, AND you will need to use good disposables such as oil. You cannot cannot cannot at all cheap out on this. I have seen time and time again people make themselves engine poor to the point they cannot maintain it, yet drive it like they can. The end result is a dead, very expensive engine.

Step 2) and this is touched upon above, BUT I feel that it is VERY important to touch upon it again. You will need supporting mods to do this. I am NOT talking about engine stuff. We all know you'll need those pieces, but I am talking about the chassis, brakes, and tires. When you are putting down that power you will, at least I would hope, from time to time be going very fast. You absolutely MUST have the whole car solid and capable of handling the speeds that 600 will get you to very quickly. The suspension must be in proper working order. This means decent dampers in decent shape, decent suspension mounting points (ie no decayed or torn bushings). Tires and brakes!!! I cannot at all emphasize this enough. You MUST have rotors and brake pads that will take the heat you will be putting into them when slowing down, but they must also be able to handle working at low speed when they are cold. At this point any concern about dust or noise should not be on your radar at all. Those are now garbage talking points. When it comes to tires you must keep in mind that these are (hopefully) the ONLY thing touching the ground. The end result is that they are your source for traction. Beit accelerating, turning or BRAKING!! Good tires to do this typically are more expensive, AND they do not last long.

Step 3) NOW we get to the engine.

3a) If you are going to be doing the assembly yourself (as you have stated), and you want it to last you MUST get, understand, and use the proper tools. This means no BS plastigauge for bearing clearnaces.

3b) We call the stock semi-closed deck at 550. Yes, you can go more. You can also repeated slam your head into a wall. I do not recommend either. Your options here are close deck or sleeves. I have three companies I recommend for closed deck. Us, IAG and Outfront. Our closed decking is done by Howard at ARFab. For sleeves I recommend ONLY one machine shop which is again Howard. There is another place that is doing Darton sleeves, and they are doing it for CHEAP. I DO NOT recommend him, and have even gotten to the point that if someone calls me asking me to rework one of those cases I will flat out refuse the job. Every time, EVERY SINGLE TIME, I have made the mistake of taking on one of the jobs that came through there it has become a total ****show.

3c) Since you are using your old case you MUST not only get it bored and honed, but decked and line honed. If you've done your reading around here you will have seen my statement that a subaru case is a floppy bag of aluminum that just holds the guts in. THAT is still the case.

3d) You WILL need head work to support this. Now, I'm not talking port and polish or bowl blend or anything fancy like that. I am saying you will need a GOOD head refresh, and you will need valves and springs that will last. I would recommend ferrera in this case.

4) Cooling!!!!!! The longer and longer I do this the more and more I come to appreciate that heat is the number one enemy of your engine. You WILL need a good radiator. I'm not talking any kind of budget sponsors everyone garbage. I'm talking the expensive multi-pass, well built radiator. You WILL need a better oil cooler. Again, not the cheap stuff here. We have been working with a company on a new setup that ended up stuffing a cooler that brought the total oil capacity of the engine to 8.1 qts. FINALLY! a decent amount of oil in a Subaru engine, and it cooled well too. If you're planning on putting any sustained heat into this system with longer drives that see decent speeds you will need to cut some holes into your to get the hot air out once it gone through the radiator and cooler.

5) There are a TON of other things that will need to be done. BEFORE you start tearing things apart, BEFORE you start spending money on parts spend hours of your time reading and researching. Then go from there.

6) Should you need support in this endeavor call a shop that does this on a regular basis, BUT don't be that guy that chews up that shop's very valuable time and then ghosts. If they give you recommendations based upon their very expensive and hard earned experience then buy the parts through them.
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Old 02-28-2020, 12:00 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by spoolinsti05 View Post
And make that power at just 28psi
Just 28psi? Oh that's it.
What fuel? And cooling that boost is practical on the street?


Quote:
Originally Posted by spoolinsti05 View Post

My car drives better then a factory STi. Great throttle response. 10psi by 3k rpm at 3k rpm I'm around like 300whp on the daily usage I keep it under 4k rpm unless someone in a hellcat wants the sauce.
I get you are proud of your build and it sounds cool, but this statement just isn't believable.
I mean you get a third of your peak boost by 3000 rpm's? So when do you get all of it? 5000?
And if you sit in traffic in summertime you can just get right back into boost?
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Old 02-28-2020, 02:29 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by spoolinsti05 View Post
I have way less then 15k into my build I did a the work myself. Besides the sleeving. And make that power at just 28psi

I can build up block for around 3k that can handle this power. Stock heads and cams will do it.
thats funny sounds like you are using all stock interals i mean the machine shop alone is going to about half that.. I would love to see your dyno at 28 and build details. btw any turbo that spolls that fast is to going to make that much power.. I ahve a spoolinator kik witha gtx 3067 and I cant spool that quick. and you are going to need something significantly bigger to amek 600-700 than a 30 or a 35r.

Last edited by subaru_gc8; 02-28-2020 at 02:36 PM.
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Old 02-28-2020, 08:34 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by subaru_gc8 View Post
thats funny sounds like you are using all stock interals i mean the machine shop alone is going to about half that.. I would love to see your dyno at 28 and build details. btw any turbo that spolls that fast is to going to make that much power.. I ahve a spoolinator kik witha gtx 3067 and I cant spool that quick. and you are going to need something significantly bigger to amek 600-700 than a 30 or a 35r.
Nothing funny about it just facts Manley internals king bearings. Don't forget I did the assembly myself. I'm fact I've been making about the same power on the same internal parts since 2012. So..

And turbo is a 6466 like I said 10psi by 3k 28 by 4500

Something must not be right if you're smaller turbo can't do that. Or better.
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Old 02-28-2020, 09:03 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by rtv900 View Post
Just 28psi? Oh that's it.
What fuel? And cooling that boost is practical on the street?




I get you are proud of your build and it sounds cool, but this statement just isn't believable.
I mean you get a third of your peak boost by 3000 rpm's? So when do you get all of it? 5000?
And if you sit in traffic in summertime you can just get right back into boost?
Thanks I am, Well seeing is believing. Full boost 4500 and this is from a 3rd gear aspect.

Traffic usually isn't a problem. But even so she stays cool. I set my hood up to vent very well. And the reverse hood scoop helps to. I usually don't get right into boost if I'm sitting in traffic I wait until I get some airflow into the engine. Last time I checked intake temp in traffic it was like 100°
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Old 02-28-2020, 09:50 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turn in Concepts View Post
Ok. Here we go as I do this every single day.

Step 1) I need you to wholly and completely understand that a Subaru motor pushing this on a daily driver is a whole new level of maintenance and upkeep. This is not a setup where you turn up the radio and ignore a new sound. This is a setup where you stop, and do not drive it any more until you figure out the noise and correct it. Your normal maintenance needs to be spot on schedule, a reduced schedule vs a stock car, AND you will need to use good disposables such as oil. You cannot cannot cannot at all cheap out on this. I have seen time and time again people make themselves engine poor to the point they cannot maintain it, yet drive it like they can. The end result is a dead, very expensive engine.

Step 2) and this is touched upon above, BUT I feel that it is VERY important to touch upon it again. You will need supporting mods to do this. I am NOT talking about engine stuff. We all know you'll need those pieces, but I am talking about the chassis, brakes, and tires. When you are putting down that power you will, at least I would hope, from time to time be going very fast. You absolutely MUST have the whole car solid and capable of handling the speeds that 600 will get you to very quickly. The suspension must be in proper working order. This means decent dampers in decent shape, decent suspension mounting points (ie no decayed or torn bushings). Tires and brakes!!! I cannot at all emphasize this enough. You MUST have rotors and brake pads that will take the heat you will be putting into them when slowing down, but they must also be able to handle working at low speed when they are cold. At this point any concern about dust or noise should not be on your radar at all. Those are now garbage talking points. When it comes to tires you must keep in mind that these are (hopefully) the ONLY thing touching the ground. The end result is that they are your source for traction. Beit accelerating, turning or BRAKING!! Good tires to do this typically are more expensive, AND they do not last long.

Step 3) NOW we get to the engine.

3a) If you are going to be doing the assembly yourself (as you have stated), and you want it to last you MUST get, understand, and use the proper tools. This means no BS plastigauge for bearing clearnaces.

3b) We call the stock semi-closed deck at 550. Yes, you can go more. You can also repeated slam your head into a wall. I do not recommend either. Your options here are close deck or sleeves. I have three companies I recommend for closed deck. Us, IAG and Outfront. Our closed decking is done by Howard at ARFab. For sleeves I recommend ONLY one machine shop which is again Howard. There is another place that is doing Darton sleeves, and they are doing it for CHEAP. I DO NOT recommend him, and have even gotten to the point that if someone calls me asking me to rework one of those cases I will flat out refuse the job. Every time, EVERY SINGLE TIME, I have made the mistake of taking on one of the jobs that came through there it has become a total ****show.

3c) Since you are using your old case you MUST not only get it bored and honed, but decked and line honed. If you've done your reading around here you will have seen my statement that a subaru case is a floppy bag of aluminum that just holds the guts in. THAT is still the case.

3d) You WILL need head work to support this. Now, I'm not talking port and polish or bowl blend or anything fancy like that. I am saying you will need a GOOD head refresh, and you will need valves and springs that will last. I would recommend ferrera in this case.

4) Cooling!!!!!! The longer and longer I do this the more and more I come to appreciate that heat is the number one enemy of your engine. You WILL need a good radiator. I'm not talking any kind of budget sponsors everyone garbage. I'm talking the expensive multi-pass, well built radiator. You WILL need a better oil cooler. Again, not the cheap stuff here. We have been working with a company on a new setup that ended up stuffing a cooler that brought the total oil capacity of the engine to 8.1 qts. FINALLY! a decent amount of oil in a Subaru engine, and it cooled well too. If you're planning on putting any sustained heat into this system with longer drives that see decent speeds you will need to cut some holes into your to get the hot air out once it gone through the radiator and cooler.

5) There are a TON of other things that will need to be done. BEFORE you start tearing things apart, BEFORE you start spending money on parts spend hours of your time reading and researching. Then go from there.

6) Should you need support in this endeavor call a shop that does this on a regular basis, BUT don't be that guy that chews up that shop's very valuable time and then ghosts. If they give you recommendations based upon their very expensive and hard earned experience then buy the parts through them.
While I do agree with you on some things. I will say this.

Stock cases at stock bore with correct ignition timing correct clearances will handle a lot of boost. I only did sleeves to be able to rebuild it if it ever broke and the ability to bore it out. For more service life and bigger engines are always better.

I read his post he said block is at machine shop unless I'm thinking of someone else. But I've rebuilt my block 3 times 2 while it was sleeved and main journals where straight! Honed it replaced bearings and called it a day. New rings on 3rd time because they had been from 2010. And seen a lot of racing. Upgraded the wrist pins too.

Valve springs for sure at the very least. I run beehive. And I just now changed the setup with heads I've ported and gsc super alloy valves stock size. Also went to d25 heads that I've chamber matched I have GSC s2 cams also the non billet ones.


The best cooling mod he can do is a cooler thermostat. And run his fans at all times. And hood ventilation via hood spacers.

More oil isn't always better. It's just more weight. My major priority is having oil in the pan at ALL times...

And while a oil cooler is good I prefer the oil to be in the engine lubing my internals. the factory setup is actually a heat exchanger not a cooler. Mine is deleted.

I also recommend ar fab for sleeving. Jr had turbo Trix do mine when he was working there. I haven't had an issue with it really. he had clearances super tight on the first build with his hone I loosened them puppies up. Even ring gaps he had very tight.

I have gone on 200 mile road trips with my car at elevation and such and back to sea level. I can go do pulls up in the mountains and come do pulls back at sea level no issues.
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Old 02-29-2020, 08:05 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by spoolinsti05 View Post
Nothing funny about it just facts Manley internals king bearings. Don't forget I did the assembly myself. I'm fact I've been making about the same power on the same internal parts since 2012. So..

And turbo is a 6466 like I said 10psi by 3k 28 by 4500

Something must not be right if you're smaller turbo can't do that. Or better.
^right, I believe it could be done for that money when you do it yourself, obviously if you charged for your time you'd have to charge $100 an hour to make it comparable to a legitimate business with that skill level. The labor is where the money goes.

anyhow, my stock STI will get 17 psi at 2500 rpm's, I personally would not be happy with only 10 at 3000 because I don't want to sit in the 3500-5500 rpm range on the street
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Old 02-29-2020, 09:41 AM   #19
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Ok. Here we go as I do this every single day.

Step 1) I need you to wholly and completely understand that a Subaru motor pushing this on a daily driver is a whole new level of maintenance and upkeep. This is not a setup where you turn up the radio and ignore a new sound. This is a setup where you stop, and do not drive it any more until you figure out the noise and correct it. Your normal maintenance needs to be spot on schedule, a reduced schedule vs a stock car, AND you will need to use good disposables such as oil. You cannot cannot cannot at all cheap out on this. I have seen time and time again people make themselves engine poor to the point they cannot maintain it, yet drive it like they can. The end result is a dead, very expensive engine.

Step 2) and this is touched upon above, BUT I feel that it is VERY important to touch upon it again. You will need supporting mods to do this. I am NOT talking about engine stuff. We all know you'll need those pieces, but I am talking about the chassis, brakes, and tires. When you are putting down that power you will, at least I would hope, from time to time be going very fast. You absolutely MUST have the whole car solid and capable of handling the speeds that 600 will get you to very quickly. The suspension must be in proper working order. This means decent dampers in decent shape, decent suspension mounting points (ie no decayed or torn bushings). Tires and brakes!!! I cannot at all emphasize this enough. You MUST have rotors and brake pads that will take the heat you will be putting into them when slowing down, but they must also be able to handle working at low speed when they are cold. At this point any concern about dust or noise should not be on your radar at all. Those are now garbage talking points. When it comes to tires you must keep in mind that these are (hopefully) the ONLY thing touching the ground. The end result is that they are your source for traction. Beit accelerating, turning or BRAKING!! Good tires to do this typically are more expensive, AND they do not last long.

Step 3) NOW we get to the engine.

3a) If you are going to be doing the assembly yourself (as you have stated), and you want it to last you MUST get, understand, and use the proper tools. This means no BS plastigauge for bearing clearnaces.

3b) We call the stock semi-closed deck at 550. Yes, you can go more. You can also repeated slam your head into a wall. I do not recommend either. Your options here are close deck or sleeves. I have three companies I recommend for closed deck. Us, IAG and Outfront. Our closed decking is done by Howard at ARFab. For sleeves I recommend ONLY one machine shop which is again Howard. There is another place that is doing Darton sleeves, and they are doing it for CHEAP. I DO NOT recommend him, and have even gotten to the point that if someone calls me asking me to rework one of those cases I will flat out refuse the job. Every time, EVERY SINGLE TIME, I have made the mistake of taking on one of the jobs that came through there it has become a total ****show.

3c) Since you are using your old case you MUST not only get it bored and honed, but decked and line honed. If you've done your reading around here you will have seen my statement that a subaru case is a floppy bag of aluminum that just holds the guts in. THAT is still the case.

3d) You WILL need head work to support this. Now, I'm not talking port and polish or bowl blend or anything fancy like that. I am saying you will need a GOOD head refresh, and you will need valves and springs that will last. I would recommend ferrera in this case.

4) Cooling!!!!!! The longer and longer I do this the more and more I come to appreciate that heat is the number one enemy of your engine. You WILL need a good radiator. I'm not talking any kind of budget sponsors everyone garbage. I'm talking the expensive multi-pass, well built radiator. You WILL need a better oil cooler. Again, not the cheap stuff here. We have been working with a company on a new setup that ended up stuffing a cooler that brought the total oil capacity of the engine to 8.1 qts. FINALLY! a decent amount of oil in a Subaru engine, and it cooled well too. If you're planning on putting any sustained heat into this system with longer drives that see decent speeds you will need to cut some holes into your to get the hot air out once it gone through the radiator and cooler.

5) There are a TON of other things that will need to be done. BEFORE you start tearing things apart, BEFORE you start spending money on parts spend hours of your time reading and researching. Then go from there.

6) Should you need support in this endeavor call a shop that does this on a regular basis, BUT don't be that guy that chews up that shop's very valuable time and then ghosts. If they give you recommendations based upon their very expensive and hard earned experience then buy the parts through them.
What he said. I have a stage 4 that runs 600 hp, and there’s few places to put that kind of power down, and its very frustrating as a daily for many reasons such as the injector behavior at low rpms and the clutch.
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Old 02-29-2020, 04:37 PM   #20
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What he said. I have a stage 4 that runs 600 hp, and there’s few places to put that kind of power down, and its very frustrating as a daily for many reasons such as the injector behavior at low rpms and the clutch.
My injectors behave great at low rpm I can creep at 1k rpm just fine 6 puck can get annoying but I just creep in traffic and keep my distance. I do that in any manual car. Or I get froggy and start swerving cars if I see openings.
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Old 02-29-2020, 04:43 PM   #21
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^right, I believe it could be done for that money when you do it yourself, obviously if you charged for your time you'd have to charge $100 an hour to make it comparable to a legitimate business with that skill level. The labor is where the money goes.

anyhow, my stock STI will get 17 psi at 2500 rpm's, I personally would not be happy with only 10 at 3000 because I don't want to sit in the 3500-5500 rpm range on the street
A small shop can get 80hr can do that and cover it. People with big shops get more. More over head techs to pay all that stuff.

Cars around 9.7:1 behaves great off boost. Plenty of torque on motor alone. If I need more I left foot brake. Great for autocross and all around everything. Its why I haven't gone bigger on the turbo. .
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Old 03-04-2020, 11:08 PM   #22
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I have 550whp sti thing suck ass on street no way in the world any one would want to daily it, big injectors dont idle on pump gas, power bend 4.5k+ there is no single disk clutch in the market that would be easy do drive and hold 600wtq. It is very expensive did all work myself and still very very expensive!!
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Old 03-04-2020, 11:20 PM   #23
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I have 550whp sti thing suck ass on street no way in the world any one would want to daily it, big injectors dont idle on pump gas, power bend 4.5k+ there is no single disk clutch in the market that would be easy do drive and hold 600wtq. It is very expensive did all work myself and still very very expensive!!
wow all that and stock radiator...lol
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Old 03-04-2020, 11:48 PM   #24
igoiks
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wow all that and stock radiator...lol


Well everyone has their own opinion on radiators however stock oem radiator has far better fin design then most semi cheap radiators on the market, more horse power doesn’t make your coolant or oil hotter driving the car hard does. Oem radiators do crack and leak tho
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Old 03-05-2020, 12:05 AM   #25
spoolinsti05
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Well everyone has their own opinion on radiators however stock oem radiator has far better fin design then most semi cheap radiators on the market, more horse power doesn’t make your coolant or oil hotter driving the car hard does. Oem radiators do crack and leak tho
No sitting in traffic does... I have a koyo!
Can putt around at 1k rpm no issue no bucking cars smooth!
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