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Old 01-07-2019, 11:25 AM   #1
TheOddOne
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Default Tips/Tricks for separating transmission from engine?

I've searched countless threads so far but am still having no luck separating the transmission from the engine on my 04 STi. Not even a crack open for me to fit a putty knife.
  • clutch fork pin is removed
  • all bolts removed
  • Stud nuts removed. The studs themselves actually started unscrewing from the engine block and I was able to remove them entirely. The nuts connected to them were rusted and started turning the entire pins out.
  • engine mount studs are cleared
  • hoisted the engine up, supported transmission with jack stand and then slowly let the engine down, hoping the weight would help create a crack in the seal, especially with the dowel pins removed.
  • sprayed PB blaster all over to help it soak
  • applied heat to help crack the seal

Any other ideas? I've searched and haven't really come across anything else to do.
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Last edited by TheOddOne; 01-07-2019 at 06:18 PM.
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Old 01-07-2019, 12:45 PM   #2
dryvby
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Is the fork removed or at least up and disconnected from the pressure plate?
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Old 01-07-2019, 01:07 PM   #3
db7like
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If every bolt/nut is off, flat chisel with hammer on the top to help separate them.
99% of the ones I've had apart needed extra help to crack loose.

Once you get the chisel started, you can go around with a flat head to do the rest.
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Old 01-07-2019, 01:23 PM   #4
Charlie-III
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Dowel nuts?!?! There are no dowel nuts!

Some use a stud for the starter, some use a bolt. Minimum of 4 bolts and 2 nuts (very bottom, sorta covered by axles).

Likely the dowels are corroded, you can drive them part way into the engine side (through holes), then a thick putty knife to open a gap.
Open one side a bit, then other side. Big gap on one side usually jams the pin on the other side.

PS, dowel pins are solid steel, some are constant diameter, some are tapered. Every Subaru I have done is constant diameter steel. They are located at about 3 and 9 between the engine and trans.
Watch your gaps, you want as even as possible (trans lifted a bit, engine mount studs just clear of the crossmember), alignment is top to bottom and side to side.

Oh, and I REALLY Frikkin HATE a cold chisel.
Once apart, a mill smooth file to flatten dig marks, wire brush or scotchbrite to clean mating surface, a thin smear of at least wheel bearing grease on mating surfaces to make it easier down the road.
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Old 01-07-2019, 05:30 PM   #5
TheOddOne
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post
Dowel nuts?!?! There are no dowel nuts!
Oops sorry I mis-worded that! I'm talking about the 2 nuts that are on the very bottom. The stud that they connect to came out with the nuts.

I'll keep at her. I've tried a putty knife and a very flat/sharp chisel, but noticed I started to dent the aluminum case so decided to stop that.
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Old 01-07-2019, 05:48 PM   #6
gabo_s13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOddOne View Post
Oops sorry I mis-worded that! I'm talking about the 2 nuts that are on the very bottom. The stud that they connect to came out with the nuts.

I'll keep at her. I've tried a putty knife and a very flat/sharp chisel, but noticed I started to dent the aluminum case so decided to stop that.
I'm 99.9% sure the dowel pin corrosion is your problem. Just be patient with the putty knife. When I did mine, it took me the better part of 2 hours to get them to separate. When the dowels let loose, the noise it made was so loud that I thought I had broken the bellhousing casting. When you assemble back, wire wheel the pins and apply some anti-seize.
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Old 01-07-2019, 05:53 PM   #7
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Meat cleaver. Easier to apply force to the seam.

The seam doesn't really seal anything (it's open at the bottom), so besides cosmetics, you are free to wail away on the seam.

As mentioned, the dowels are likely seized, but since they are 3 and 9 positions, it's hard to get at them directly.

PS: The issue I'm having now is one of the dowel pins stayed in the transmission housing. It has to be removed before the new block goes on. Not fun.
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Old 01-07-2019, 09:55 PM   #8
Valarius Starchaser
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dead blow hammer and a block of wood against the trans mount bracket a lot of wiggling and jack work on the trans as well use leverage and the weight of the engine to your advantage
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Old 01-08-2019, 12:05 AM   #9
teamtogawa
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I've cracked a few of these blocks and at the 10oclock and 2 o'clock positions on the block are good areas to hit with the chisel. A couple scars are unavoidable and also just cosmetic. As everyone else said, go caveman on it and it will crack.
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Old 01-08-2019, 08:42 AM   #10
bp05obxt
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Default Tips/Tricks for separating transmission from engine?

A couple tricks I have used:

Engine hoist to lift trans and engine lower engine down and hope that the downward movement leverages the trans to separate slightly from the engine when it catches the crossmember. Sometimes going up is enough to get it.

Heat around the dowel pins using a torch and trying the first choice again. (this takes time)

The worst case scenario is the pins are so corroded they havenít let go yet. I have used heat and a precisely pointed air impact hammer and hit the dowels toward the engine. It is crucial to just move them slightly. Once the dowel moves it should release with penetrating fluid or a little heat and wiggling. The driver side dowel can be effectively useless or worse damage the engine head if pushed too far!
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Old 01-22-2019, 07:51 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wobbletop View Post
Meat cleaver. Easier to apply force to the seam.

The seam doesn't really seal anything (it's open at the bottom), so besides cosmetics, you are free to wail away on the seam.

As mentioned, the dowels are likely seized, but since they are 3 and 9 positions, it's hard to get at them directly.

PS: The issue I'm having now is one of the dowel pins stayed in the transmission housing. It has to be removed before the new block goes on. Not fun.
The meat cleaver worked for me as well. It finally broke apart with a bang! I cleaned and greased the dowels for easier removal next time.
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Old 01-22-2019, 09:52 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post
Dowel nuts?!?! There are no dowel nuts!
i think he means the nuts were rusted to the studs in front of the axles that usually stay with the engine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post
Once apart, a mill smooth file to flatten dig marks, wire brush or scotchbrite to clean mating surface, a thin smear of at least wheel bearing grease on mating surfaces to make it easier down the road.
yep a quick file of any burrs so the engine and trans sit flat together. i also added a bit of grease to mine after fighting to get it off. my car is the only subaru i have had issues with. the other 5 subarus i pulled motors on came right apart. i think the hood scoop on the wrx pours rain and moisture right there causing it to seize up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bp05obxt View Post
A couple tricks I have used:



Heat around the dowel pins using a torch and trying the first choice again. (this takes time)
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Old 01-23-2019, 11:30 AM   #13
TheOddOne
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Little update, got it removed. The dowels were corroded for sure. Needed a lot of heat and patience. I'll be adding some anti-seize to them to make sure it doesn't happen again.

Thanks!!
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Old 02-02-2019, 04:21 AM   #14
ooopsIdiditagain
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Default Good Job

Thanks for the tips as well. going through my first engine/tranny separation as well. Took a LOT of beating. finally got it with a chisel and hammer next to where the starter is located. once i was able to get a flat head in there a pry bar and some patience did the rest.
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Old 06-11-2019, 04:20 PM   #15
kc2llw
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Default transmission separation

I have tried all of the tricks and still can't seem to get the trans separated 2011 Impreza outback sport. any other tips would be helpful.
thanks,
Steve
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Old 06-13-2019, 08:54 AM   #16
bp05obxt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kc2llw View Post
I have tried all of the tricks and still can't seem to get the trans separated 2011 Impreza outback sport. any other tips would be helpful.

thanks,

Steve


I donít like this idea but if you really havenít gotten the engine and trans to separate the only other last resort method I could suggest is to use a dremel or a tool of some sort to slit the engine or trans where the dowels are. I would choose the engine side as the engines are often times the first permanently replaced item and mounting the transmission would probably work as intended. A small relief slit should allow the aluminum to relax around the dowels and separate... last resort kind of idea...
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Old 06-13-2019, 09:19 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bp05obxt View Post
I donít like this idea but if you really havenít gotten the engine and trans to separate the only other last resort method I could suggest is to use a dremel or a tool of some sort to slit the engine or trans where the dowels are. I would choose the engine side as the engines are often times the first permanently replaced item and mounting the transmission would probably work as intended. A small relief slit should allow the aluminum to relax around the dowels and separate... last resort kind of idea...


Thatís a terrible idea. Sorry man. I canít see compromising the parts designed to keep the motor and trans aligned under torque.

They will all come apart with persuasion. My last resort would be to grind a slot in the seam that would let a large pry bar seat. Then wedge and bang. Itíll break free with a 3í pry bar.
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Old 06-13-2019, 10:26 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdubblu View Post
Thatís a terrible idea. Sorry man. I canít see compromising the parts designed to keep the motor and trans aligned under torque.

They will all come apart with persuasion. My last resort would be to grind a slot in the seam that would let a large pry bar seat. Then wedge and bang. Itíll break free with a 3í pry bar.
seconded
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Old 06-13-2019, 11:12 AM   #19
kc2llw
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Thanks guys, I got it separated after beating at the top of the seam with a 10 lb hammer and 2x4 block of wood 2 cans of PB blaster. I finally got a razor blade in the seam then a putty knife then a screwdriver then a prybar. the guide pins were frozen and both came out with the transmission side. Any suggestions on a replacement clutch? Luk, Sachs? it is a non turbo daily driver.
thanks
Steve
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Old 06-13-2019, 03:04 PM   #20
bp05obxt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdubblu View Post
Thatís a terrible idea. Sorry man. I canít see compromising the parts designed to keep the motor and trans aligned under torque.

They will all come apart with persuasion. My last resort would be to grind a slot in the seam that would let a large pry bar seat. Then wedge and bang. Itíll break free with a 3í pry bar.


Hence why I said I donít like the idea... better then breaking the trans or engine though...
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Old 06-13-2019, 03:05 PM   #21
bp05obxt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kc2llw View Post
Thanks guys, I got it separated after beating at the top of the seam with a 10 lb hammer and 2x4 block of wood 2 cans of PB blaster. I finally got a razor blade in the seam then a putty knife then a screwdriver then a prybar. the guide pins were frozen and both came out with the transmission side. Any suggestions on a replacement clutch? Luk, Sachs? it is a non turbo daily driver.

thanks

Steve


Iíd stick with Exedy, but I know there are plenty of people running around on Lukís
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Old 06-15-2019, 12:03 AM   #22
bdubblu
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Exedy is a fantastic stock clutch. I can attest to that. Had several of them.
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Old 06-15-2019, 10:49 AM   #23
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Southbend clutch.
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Old 06-15-2019, 11:29 AM   #24
bp05obxt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scorpius View Post
Southbend clutch.


As southbend clutches are modified exedy clutches for Subaruís they are a good option for turbo cars; a bit overkill for a non-turbo daily driver though even though they do offer daily driver options. It would come down to price point for me.
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Old 06-21-2019, 05:00 PM   #25
kc2llw
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I installed the clutch now I am having issues! The clutch will not disengage.
I have check the pedal adjustment and can see the TOB push on the PP fingers it travels about an inch or slightly more but will not disengage. gears grind if I try to put the vehicle in gear while clutch is depressed??
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