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Old 06-01-2018, 07:30 PM   #26
flyboy1100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Commander Keen View Post
Amazon says:

TF02 = 13.6lbs
FF502a = 12.7lbs

#3 looks like a good choice. I agree, no reason to go high torque on the FB20.


Exedy says 12.7 for both, but they can't confirm fitment for anything it seems.
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Old 06-04-2018, 11:14 AM   #27
flyboy1100
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Fjk1005 ordered

All new hoses, plugs ordered, f/r main seals ordered late last week.

Exedy FF502a was 288 today at rock auto before 5% off, no idea why it dropped 25.00 but is coming now too!

Still need buy some assembly lube and i think i will have everything, maybe by this Friday

Last edited by flyboy1100; 06-04-2018 at 12:05 PM.
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Old 06-05-2018, 01:06 AM   #28
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Got these plus gaskets, orings, and pre heater hose. Group N is as close to polyurethane as I would even want to consider for a daily driver, hopefully I don't regret it as they feel super stiff..... done polyurethane in the past and didn't like it at idle.

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Old 06-06-2018, 10:55 AM   #29
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Even more parts, clutch should hopefully be here tomorrow

Not sure where my flywheel was made?



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Old 06-06-2018, 11:17 PM   #30
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Im hoping the group n mounts fit our brackets otherwise they wont fit our cars

Looking at keen's pics i think they will, the brackets they come with don't have the spacer on the back side so it doesn't fit, the holes line up however

Last edited by flyboy1100; 06-06-2018 at 11:22 PM.
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Old 06-07-2018, 12:05 AM   #31
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I don't see any obvious differences.

Looks like that flywheel weighed in a bit lighter than advertised. Nice!
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Old 06-07-2018, 12:18 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Commander Keen View Post
I don't see any obvious differences.

Looks like that flywheel weighed in a bit lighter than advertised. Nice!
look at your picture here, there is the large square metal spacer on one side, that is missing on the standard Group N mount brackets. like i said bolt spacing appears good, but w/o that spacer i can't use the brackets the Group N's came with and I will have to reuse my brackets which isn't a bad thing.

going to start dissassembly tomorrow i hope, i pulled off the front harness and the coolant pipes, and oil level sensor today, then got distracted by what seemed like 20 other things.

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Old 06-07-2018, 08:41 PM   #33
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w/o assembling the entire clutch, it does appear as though everything fits together correctly. tomorrow i plan to start dissassembly
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Old 06-08-2018, 10:22 AM   #34
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amazing that the stock engine didnt last 200k with proper maintenance.
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Old 06-08-2018, 04:56 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by auskip07 View Post
amazing that the stock engine didnt last 200k with proper maintenance.


Well, engineering defect on the rings didn't help any. Im fairly annoyed thats for sure. Did give me an excuse to buy lightweight flywheel and group n mounts i guess

Oh and now I'm completely out of other projects, 2 spare vehicle plus a motorcycle i can ride while i work on this one, tomorrow.
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Old 06-09-2018, 04:18 PM   #36
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Every day is "tomorrow i will start" but tomorrow i will for real, today was a rest day since I have worked on various projects for the last week and i just need a break!

Today i picked up my lower dash cover for over the fan and a new Pilot and throwout bearing. I dont like the chinese ones in my exedy kit, the OEM bearings have made it 150k+ in my car so hopefully the new Subaru ones will too. New Subaru ones say made in Japan, so hopefully they are, the throwout bearing has no markings however

also borrowed another stand, so first thing i do tomorrow will be pull old engine so i can start stealing some parts for my new engine. Also once the engine is out i will be much more motivated to actually get this done
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Old 06-09-2018, 08:36 PM   #37
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No need to rush. It's not a job you want to screw up, considering how deep you'll be getting into it.

If my Exedy TOB goes, the replacement will be some oversize bearing and snout sleeve combo. I'm not so loyal to the OEM TOB after mine went.
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Old 06-10-2018, 01:45 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Commander Keen View Post
No need to rush. It's not a job you want to screw up, considering how deep you'll be getting into it.

If my Exedy TOB goes, the replacement will be some oversize bearing and snout sleeve combo. I'm not so loyal to the OEM TOB after mine went.


True not much further and I could pull heads and pistons!
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Old 06-10-2018, 02:55 PM   #39
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Compression testing on old engine, each cylinder done twice:

#1: 198, 195
#3: 193, 195
#2: 189, 193
#4: 169, 175

max difference per the book is 14psi, so I am just barely outside of that spec. my compression tester came out wet from #4, rest were dry...

just waiting for oil to drain so then i can drain coolant and start removing other stuff, well there is topside stuff i can continue to work on while that drains too
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Old 06-11-2018, 12:36 AM   #40
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Now pictures, took me about 3 hours to prep for engine removal, spent another 30min flushing radiator and straightening some fins, and 1.5 to figure out how to get the darn engine to separate from transmission.

Factory exedy clutch had tons of life, no hotspots on flywheel or pressure plate. Included some weights, new setup will be a lot lighter!!

Factory transmission mount is a joke, new group n mount is perfect match

Group n engine mounts are wider, but look like they will fit fine and clear everything with the original mounting plates

Group n pitch stop vs factory only difference i can see is a different part number in the larger bushing but they carry the same part numbers for the plastic and front bushing, oh well

Probably will order a tsk1 sleeve kit, not sure I actually need it, the factory grove is still in the inside of the TOB, but the snout feels wavy but no major ridges. really tough call if i do need it or not.

when i put the newer engine back into the car i will probably also evacuate the AC and put on the newer compressor too, the idler bearing on my current one is starting to feel a bit rough, but for now going to leave AC hooked up to prevent possibly weeks of open system time. hopefully I am done this weekend, but not sure












Last edited by flyboy1100; 06-11-2018 at 01:11 AM.
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Old 06-11-2018, 12:39 AM   #41
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Old 06-11-2018, 12:40 AM   #42
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[

IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180611/5e065fc18358f6e8aec1fe71b2240899.jpg[/IMG]





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Old 06-11-2018, 12:40 AM   #43
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Old 06-11-2018, 05:31 PM   #44
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pics later

I keep finding other things to replace due to swapping between the 2 engines:
1. water pump gasket
2. thermostat gasket

probably will find more I didn't fully account for.

getting the front cover off sucks, only done the old engine so far. removing the oil pan is worse, not sure i really need to remove it to get the upper pan off, book says i do but sure doesn't look like i do.
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Old 06-11-2018, 08:01 PM   #45
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so i guess i get to straighten the mounting flange on my new oil pan now. that thing was on way tighter than the old one :/ good thing it is sealed with RTV and I will be using the Ford stuff they use on 7.3 diesel oil pans as they use that stuff to seal up greater than 1/4" gaps!
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Old 06-12-2018, 12:04 AM   #46
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'12 vs '13 dipstick




Old engine pics











Newer engine ready for 5MT upper oil pan and installed. Tomorrow will be oil pan and maybe pull chains

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Old 06-12-2018, 11:51 AM   #47
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awesome watching your journey. way over my ability, but fascinating to see. thanks for documenting and sharing it with us.
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Old 06-12-2018, 12:05 PM   #48
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It actually is much easier than even I thought it would be. Hardest part is getting the darn rtv to release
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Old 06-12-2018, 12:12 PM   #49
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+1, thanks for showing your process, always cool to see. Hope it all goes well!
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Old 06-12-2018, 03:07 PM   #50
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Great pictures, very clean inside! You were running 10K OCIs right?
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