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Old 03-05-2018, 08:26 PM   #251
JarHarms
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While I am waiting for a stuck bolt to soak, I moved on to other tasks and working on those in parallel.
Hybrid EBCS/MBC is close to being sorted out. I had to get some new fittings to correct the miss-match Grimmspeed has between their hose sizes. Also had to buy some shorter screws since the ones they send are too long to use...just embarrassing


Finishing up the last of the fuel pickup/pump changes. Just need to merge the Radium venturi pump with the original pipes. Looks like I need to slightly shorten these pipes to make it all fit back together well. Also there are 2 bolts that touch the pump body, I do not like that. Will get/grind some shorter bolts in there and remount the pump with the rubber bootie thing that came in the kit. That should isolate the pump better. Might also add some cable ties to keep the pump in place.



Also made some progress tonight on the exhaust. TD04 turbo, oem downpipe, and existing Tomei midpipeA are removed. Looks like my miss-matched midpipeA gamble paid off. I'm pretty sure I can convert this 40010 cat-back into the 3" through inlet I was looking for. I think since I keep doing their development validations Tomei could at least send me a cool Tomei hat, shirt, underwear, or 1/2 price Poncams.

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Last edited by JarHarms; 07-31-2019 at 10:37 AM.
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Old 03-06-2018, 10:55 PM   #252
JarHarms
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Intake manifold EVAP pipe sorted out. I cut away the fuel feed and return pipes then did a quick 90deg bend to leave behind a clean neatly routed EVAP pipe. It takes up minimal space and hugs tightly to the intake manifold. The solenoid to intake manifold rubber hose sort of works on the solenoid to EVAP pipe connection, I'll order a 2nd one of those.









Forced Performance's Subaru "older" oil supply line TYPE 1 is a bit miss-labeled. FP calls this a NON-AVCS kit. True it does work on Subaru's non-AVCS engines. However they must have came up with that naming convention prior to the 2006 era AVCS "non-STI" engines. Basically those engines have the separated turbo oil line and RHS AVCS line. The TYPE 1 kit is what you need to use. Although you could still use the TYPE 2 kit which might offer better install access but you would HAVE to plug the oem port at the back of the cylinder head.
Qty 1 - 24" sheathed oil line with -4AN female fittings (really 23 3/4" end-end) machine crimped strait swivel fittings and thermal sleeve over the braided hose.
Qty 1 - M12 banjo to -4AN fitting (stainless)
Qty 1 - M12x1.25 banjo bolt (stainless)
Qty 1 - M12 crush washers (really there are Qty 2 copper washers)
Qty 1 - M10 banjo to -4AN fitting (zinc plated steel)
Qty 1 - M10x1.50 banjo bolt (stainless)
Qty 1 - M10 crush washers (really there are Qty 2 copper washers)


If you have the combined RHS turbo/AVCS line on your engine then you should use their TYPE 2 kit. Mainly STi engines used that combined turbo/AVCS line.

Either way this kit is sort of a frustrating PITA. Enough so that they stopped selling the type1 and type2 kits and now offer a single kit to cover both. Sort of...I guess since there does not seem to be both 10mm and 12mm CHRA inlet banjos or a way to select which one. The instructions still suck since there is no hose routing example. The new kit will have the same problems the older kits had.
1) You have to place a second copper crush washer between the block feed and banjo. Otherwise you risk leaks due to the hose AN hex interfering with the block.
2) The effing hoses are too long. Same with the older strait fitting and the newer 90el / strait fitting hose. I mean it isn;t really useful to loop the extra hose length 8 times (I'm exaggerating) around the airbox just to get it to connect to the turbo without binding. Just plain disappointing.

I'm using their fittings (which are decent) and using a shorter hose from another place. And an extra 12mm copper washer.

Last edited by JarHarms; 02-28-2019 at 09:25 PM.
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Old 03-18-2018, 02:25 PM   #253
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After going thru this thread I will now always resurface new exhausts
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Old 03-27-2018, 12:05 PM   #254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foo_Blyat View Post
After going thru this thread I will now always resurface new exhausts
Yes, you should do so.

Last of the Spec-C engine oil cooler parts are installed. The filter header and pipes fit with plenty of clearance to this v1 holy header and the Mazda oil filters I am using. Connected the last of the rubber hoses and double clamped. These might make for a tight fit with the eventual FMIC charge pipe routing I had planned for.


Holy header and uppipe are mock installed. These were ceramic coated so I finished them off with a topcoat of VHT aluminum. It looks a little better than white.

Subaru's current uppipe/downpipe studs are now manufactured with a taller shank than before. So you have to be careful that these allow sufficient range to tighten down on the uppipe support brackets enough. If not...either different hardened studs or use a washer under the nut. The extra length could also make contact with the downpipe inlet flange that needs to be watched for.

FP Blue is set into place but the lower coolant pipe makes contact with the cylinder block. The oem coolant pipe has a tighter bend but it's a completely different banjo size, so that is a no-go. Right now removed the lower coolant pipe just to work on other fitting tasks. Will figure out how I am going to modify the coolant pipe and/or clear the cylinder block later. Probably a combo of those two.


The Tomei downpipe fits alright. I think I will shorten that rear uppipe stud some to give extra clearance around the bolting flange. It "looks" like the dp will mate up to the 40006 Tomei midpipeA I want to used. Had to extend the dp slip joint a bit which then sets the dp-trans bracket too far back. Still playing around with this to get the right mixture. If it works out I was thinking to replace the Tomei slip joint with a vband. Then the downpipe and turbine housing go out for ceramic coating. I am considering trying a different coating than I used on the header.

Finished up the hybrid boost control (HyBC). Now with more appropriate fittings and mounting hardware that actually provides isolation. EBCS vent capped. Tried to remove the huge white logos that get grimy looking as soon as you touch them. It looks like they are there to stay. WHY such huge logo right on the adjustment contact surface?



Progress is moving but at a snail's pace.

Last edited by JarHarms; 08-17-2019 at 09:42 AM.
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Old 03-29-2018, 08:09 AM   #255
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Attempted to mock install a brake master cylinder (BMC) brace last night. Mostly just for figuring out the space I have available for fuel lines and future proof if I wanted to run a brace. Had to chase the threads on one of the strut tower holes since it had nothing in there to protect threads from debris. Of course it's the hole located tight to the BMC. Seems to fit in fine and allows me the room I will need for other components. I like the wrinkle black finish but the white logo has to go.

Looking at getting some FMIC charge pipes to do some early mock install checks. Also waiting to hear back on some 6MT oil cooler related parts. A few more parts to fit check then maybe off to powder coating.
Deeper down the rabbit hole we go.....
forward outlet pipe (21620aa131 -> 1332 -> 133) outlet pipe *non-USDM and 2month build to order WTF really?
union (801914010)
x2 crush gaskets (803914060)
rearward inlet pipe (21619aa081 -> 083) *non-USDM part
union (21663AA010)
x2 crush gasket (803914060)
seal plug (31325KA080)
fluid pipes (45522fe141) *fe141 is non-USDM part, USDM part 45522fe031 will work the front routing is identical but the rear is different, however with the right hoses you can still come up with the correct connections. NOTE: you cannot install/remove these fluid pipes if you still have AC in your car. You will have to evac the AC, move the LHS rail AC pipe, install these pipes, then reinstall the AC pipe, then recharge AC.
hose (45520fe170)
hose (45520fe160)
hose (45520fe140)
hose (45520fe150)
x8 clamps (909170062)
The remainder of the parts I need are USDM from the AutoTrans Impreza. Now which radiator to use...I've got a few months to figure it out. A Ron Davis would be awesome but....ehh I can use that money elsewhere. CSF is pretty tempting.




Well shoot good thing I decided to order the Spec-C pipes then. Noted on the forward mounting modification...
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrsaturn7085 View Post
Since this post is still coming up on Google searches, I thought I'd clarify a few things since I'm completing an install of the original JDM Spec C lines into a USDM '06 STI:

The transmission cooler was located in the bottom of the radiator. the AT radiator and MT (w/cooler) radiator are the exact same p/n.

The black hard pipes were not the same as the AT model. They have a different routing due to the location of the hard line inlet/outlet on the transmissions. These will bolt into a USDM chassis, but one of the two bolt holes will have a plastic plug in it that needs to be pulled out.

OEM radiator fan shrouds have provisions to clip the rubber lines into.

Buying the JDM parts is a bolt-in affair, and the steering column *will* clear the two rear rubber hoses (this was my biggest concern).

All but one of the required parts are available - Subaru has discontinued one of the two metal inserts necessary to mount the black hard lines to the frame. You will need to fabricate something using a metal spacer and a fender washer for the front mounting bolt. The hard lines do not directly mount to the frame, but through rubber isolators, much like the wastegate solenoid assembly.

As mentioned prior, the example shots of the coolers above show the transmission cooler on top (Spec C model w/fins; the JDM STi still had a cooler, but it was just a long pipe w/o fins), and the oil cooler on the bottom. The steering cooler will bolt into a USDM car without much issue (you need the cooler assembly and the plastic reservoir w/re-routed outlet ports). The oil cooler will work... but with much more difficulty. The USDM exhaust will contact the oil lines unless you remove the heat shield... but then you have the issue of rubber lines near un-shielded exhaust. My solution was to run a Tomei EL exhaust manifold.

Last edited by JarHarms; 08-17-2019 at 09:46 AM.
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Old 04-19-2018, 06:02 AM   #256
i286
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Awesome build and attention to detail man. Appreciate the documentation, been great read!
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Old 04-19-2018, 12:10 PM   #257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JarHarms View Post
GpN bushings (add STI and SPT p/n's) pressed into the rear knuckles. Most of the paint dot always comes off after cramming these into place. I'm picky so I think I have a yellow paint marker around here somewhere to spruce those up.
I know its been a while since you did this but presume you may have the tool still.
Are you able to share any specs for the tool to install the rear knuckle group n bushes? And did you lube at all? They are very strange by comparison to originals and I struggled first time and began to tear the bush.
I now have 2 new ones and would like to not repeat this, so any help or tips is appreciated.

Cheers,
Mario
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Old 04-20-2018, 10:19 PM   #258
JarHarms
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i286 View Post
Awesome build and attention to detail man. Appreciate the documentation, been great read!
Thanks! It could still use some cleanup and updates though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by i286 View Post
I know its been a while since you did this but presume you may have the tool still.
Are you able to share any specs for the tool to install the rear knuckle group n bushes? And did you lube at all? They are very strange by comparison to originals and I struggled first time and began to tear the bush.
I now have 2 new ones and would like to not repeat this, so any help or tips is appreciated.
Yes I still have those tools. Honestly I would recommend just ordering these special tools or trying the DIY pipe reducer/alloy bat install tool that I have seen on a thread or two. Even if I had the time to offer dims off the tools it's probably not going to help out much.

HERE -> https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2704954

I use Rema Tip-Top tire mounting paste as lube. It works great for these rubber bushings. I have used NAPA Sly-Glide before which is easier to get, works well enough, but is pretty messy in comparison.
When these bushings are uninstalled (and new) they appear narrower and much larger OD than you would expect to fit in that knuckle. I posted a photo of that a long while back. It really gets squeezed in there when you press it in with the tapered guide.
I'd offer to install them for you if you shipped me the parts but your location. That probably won't work out well for shipping costs.

Last edited by JarHarms; 04-21-2018 at 08:58 AM.
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Old 04-21-2018, 10:30 PM   #259
Rocker18jr
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This WRX looks beautiful. One day I hope mine looks as good as this but only difference is itís WRB
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Old 04-25-2018, 02:27 PM   #260
JarHarms
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Still waiting for some thread repair supplies to address that coolant crossover bolt that fused itself to the cyl block. However some fun parts arrived yesterday, now I need to gather the rest of the system and decide on a radiator. I am hoping the weather turning nice will help with the motivation level....
forward outlet pipe (21620aa133)
union (801914010)
x2 crush gaskets (803914060)
rearward inlet pipe (21619aa083)
union (21663AA010)
x2 crush gasket (803914060)
seal plug (31325KA080)
fluid pipes (45522fe141)
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Old 05-01-2018, 04:03 PM   #261
JarHarms
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Coolant crossover mounting now repaired. A Time-Sert 6Mx1.0 kit worked great on that problem. Moved on to fitting other top end parts. Looks to be enough room under the DBW Tbody to use the earlier PCV valve. APS inlet tube is pretty tight against the "loop-over" PS hardline. I could go ahead with installing the '08 PS pump and run new PS hoses. I really wanted to tackle that job after getting the engine back online. Might look into a silicone inlet to use as a temporary measure.

Also looks like I have clearance for the relocated IAT. Plenty of room where the EVAP purge valve catastrophe lived. Just needign to drill and tap for the AEM IAT sensor. Then build the bypass harness from the MAF connectors I found.


The venturi jet pump is installed but need to test a hose connection still. The suction side is pretty tight so I am trying s lower profile swivel banjo. Not my first choice but since it's fuel suction....maybe it will live. I was not able to find any compact 90els in 6ORB to 1/4 barb or even to 5/16 barb fitting made of stainless or coated alloy. Some zinc plated steel offerings but I will not place that in a tank of E% fuel. Added the shorter bolts and AEM's rubber bootie to isolate the pump from the hanger. Also ordered some special cable ties to use there.





So here it is. I will likely swap out the Gates rubber hose for some PTFE tubing sometime after the car is running and tuned. I know this type of hose will technically work but there are cases where it degrades over time when submerged in higher %E fuels. Especially risky since I have a pretty long hose in there after removing the in-tank filter. The only trick to the PTFE tube is the limited sizes and lengths. Pretty sure the pump outlet to hanger is do-able. The shorter jet pump tubes are going to be a PITA to source I expect.


Remainder of PS hose parts, Vband assembly, and Lambda bung/plug ordered. Probably also get some random bolts, spacers, and ETFE cable ties ready for pickup this week. Hope to sort out FPR location and fuel hoses soon.

I have a bunch to do...and warm weather is already here.

Last edited by JarHarms; 08-08-2019 at 09:04 AM.
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Old 05-18-2018, 09:21 AM   #262
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Relocated IAT sensor installed. Related thread >HERE<
Kept flipping back and forth between TMIC outlet tank, IM plenum under Tbody, or IM in the cyl runner locations. I went with the IM runner figuring heat soak is similar in risk for each location and it was most accessible with less chance of oil pooling and impact if I change the CAC later on. I could get just enough IAT probe entry past the IM runner wall and actually within the air path. More would be better but...


Finally got the Tomei downpipe outlet mated to the catback flange on the new Tomei midpipeA. This is likely the most bastardized Tomei ExpremeTi exhaust I have meshed together. Their downpipe rear bracket is clearly in the wrong location so I'll have to move that. I originally was just going to install the WB probe as the downpipe is setup already. Checking into adding a bung at the bellmouth since I would rather decrease signal latency. Waiting for a turbo heat shield to arrive so I can check clearance to the WB probe. Also have a 3" vband assembly which I am contemplating converting their slip joint into.

Turbo inlets were a bit of a pain. I tried a few silicone ones and they just don't fit how I needed. So back to the APS. I was able to get the loop-over hardline moved enough to work. So the existing PS pump stays for now. The crankcase balance pipe is usually cut out then replaced with rubber hose and plastic fittings. I really don't like that so I'm altering the oem coolant/balance pipes to fit since I have extra room via different fuel lines. One pipe support was cut and can be welded in a new location. Just need to slightly bend the pipe to gain extra clearance at the turbo compressor nipple for the hose connection from the Vcover.

Fuel regulator is going to be a real challenge with all of the filter, E% sensor, AC line, and hose routing involved. I have a few ways I can go with this but the hardest part is placing the fuel regulator in an ideal location (there aren't many due to fuse box location). Might have to move to another filter arrangement to get the routing I want. The ID 750 filter is fancy but challenging to integrate in the available envelope.

Last edited by JarHarms; 09-14-2018 at 12:18 PM.
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Old 05-21-2018, 02:18 PM   #263
JarHarms
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New filter on the way to try out in place of the ID 750 filter. I need to simplify something to avoid a plumbing mess later on. Fingers crossed.
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Old 06-07-2018, 01:26 PM   #264
JarHarms
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Appears this filter will work out better with my setup. I'm trying out different pluming configurations to find the best compromise. Ended up switching out their brace mounting hardware to shorter versions and swapping the 120deg fitting for a 150deg one. The only issue is this interferes with my intended FPR mounting location. So it might be back to on-engine mounting (not my preference) after all.


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Old 06-14-2018, 04:29 PM   #265
JarHarms
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A little progress on re-routing the cyl/head sync breathers. Looks like a combo of OEM rubber hoses and some thin wall SS tubing will make some oem appearing plumbing.
Once I get that squared away, I can look at my fuel line routing. Initially it looks pretty good but I want to be certain before I go an order any prebuilt hose assemblies.

New CSF radiator arrived it's a bit heavier than I expected. They package the oil filter block loose in the box so it bent a fan mounting tab. I can fix that though. The oil filter block is certainly the non-Greddy one but either way it's full flow so if you were using it for engine oil cooling you would have to use at least -10an lines. But I do not care since I am not using that part anyways and this is not being used on engine oil.


I am thankful the -10an fittings are not welded onto the bottom tank after all. These are -10an to 10orb adapters that can be removed. These are certainly the some pretty crude steel fittings though. The mating port is a bit homely as well but should still seal up fine. I'm hunting around for -6an to 10orb adapters to replace these with, hopefully in stainless. After full pressure and fitment testing I will send it out for BBE coating.

Last edited by JarHarms; 06-22-2018 at 12:27 PM.
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Old 06-21-2018, 09:48 PM   #266
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Hmm -10orb to -6an stainless Parker fittings are $95 each. I think I'll try out some alloy fittings first and see if they can meet my durability requirements. That project is on hold anyways until next season.

The FPR bracket I fabricated turned out great except needing to mount the regulator another 0.25" downwards. Time to make another bracket I guess. As I feared there is not much room to add in a mechanical fuel psi gauge. Even if only temporary. Mounting the fpr on-engine is still not my preference but sometimes deviation is needed.



Last edited by JarHarms; 07-31-2019 at 10:42 AM.
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Old 07-19-2018, 06:09 PM   #267
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Just bought a relatively clean 2006 wrx ltd back in late December. No mods, was pretty well maintained, and considerably less rusty than a 12 year old car from Northern NH should be. Very glad to have stumbled upon this thread and its wealth of knowledge.

If my build is half as clean as this one I'll be happy, kudos on the excellent attention to detail and gorgeous car.
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Old 07-20-2018, 12:37 AM   #268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AporueSutol View Post
Just bought a relatively clean 2006 wrx ltd back in late December. No mods, was pretty well maintained, and considerably less rusty than a 12 year old car from Northern NH should be. Very glad to have stumbled upon this thread and its wealth of knowledge.

If my build is half as clean as this one I'll be happy, kudos on the excellent attention to detail and gorgeous car.
Thanks and congrats on the WRX Ltd. I'm sure you will do right by it.

All I have gotten done lately are small tasks. Swapped out the front grills for the sport mesh inserts. Those surprisingly look better than I expected. I'm slowly working through fitting, mocking, refitting, top end parts. It seems to never end. My go-to powder coater closed up shop so now I'm on the search for another local shop for the last few chassis parts. I have some other powder shops eyed for more critical parts that can be shipped easily. Also no-go on sourcing the FMIC kit I was hoping for. I suppose I will have to build mine from scratch. Contemplating removing some interior parts to send out for a color change while the car is on stands. Tuning will be around the corner but still not sure if I will sub that work out or not. Sort of depends on how much time I have available then.
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Old 08-29-2018, 09:32 PM   #269
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The FP Blue actuator tested out to be 12psi at 1st crack when disconnected from the IWG. With FP's shipped preload setting, the 1st crack is around 13psi engine-off. The vac/boost port is placed in a weird spot and rubs the crankcase balance rubber hoses. Plus the actuator is fused to the bracket so there is no clean way to alter this. In fact the actuator and bracket are not he typical two stud/bolt attachment either. The port is also significantly smaller than all of my other BCS port sizes. Neither the port location or size are my ideal situations. Bleh...I hope it performs "rock solidly". If not then I see a 2port actuator and 4port EBCS in my future.

I ground away some of the crankcase to make room for that lower coolant pipe. Now it fits down onto the uppipe (w/o gasket) with a few mm clearance to the case. I should now be all good with the gasket between there. Shortened the two reaward uppipe studs (after this photo was taken) by about 10mm to provide more clearance to the downpipe flange, it was pretty close. Downpipe is at a friends getting the WB bung welded in. The upper turbine-to-downpipe holes are not properly spot-faced to my standards so I will have to help that one out. Maybe I will pull the turbine housing and send it out with the downpipe for ceramic coating while I work on other tasks.

Last edited by JarHarms; 07-31-2019 at 10:43 AM.
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Old 09-10-2018, 11:53 AM   #270
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Downpipe is back and the bung turned out pretty good. It still landed the WBO2 probe around the AC hardlines as I hoped. I have some material to grind on the RHS bolthole since the flange nut rubs against the bellmouth. If I coat this, that issue will only get worse. I need to do some mockup to figure out were I can add the Vband and how to correct the hanger mount.






Moved onto the on-engine fuel hoses. Used some mockup hoses to figure out my routing and needed lengths. Seems to clear the areas I was concerned of. Machine crimped -6AN Goodridge 910 will go in place of these mockup hoses. The remaining engine-to-chassis hoses will be made of 3/8" rubber hoses. Yes it is series, parallel is complicated and unnessesary. Yes it will be subject to engine heat, no more than factory hard lines.


MAF-to-inlet coupler is a PITA. The APS one I had must have been meant to use with the APS CAI. APS must have had two versions of this coupler. The one I have isn't going to work with my OEM airbox. The Torqued Solutions one I have needed about 1" cut off both ends. Even then the inlet tube side is a bit too snug to fit over the APS inlet. I am trying to stretch it out to see if I can get that to work short term. Long term I will have to find something else.

Last edited by JarHarms; 09-16-2018 at 05:14 PM.
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Old 09-14-2018, 12:06 PM   #271
JarHarms
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910 hoses came in. Just have to do some minor routing tweeks but so far they turned out pretty good. These are nice enough that I'll eventually replace the rest of my hoses with these.


Finally got the after-MAF hose stretched over the APS inlet. I am not technically thrilled with this situation but it will have to work for now. I will find something better later on. I bet air filter changes will suck with any of these inflexible couplers used here.
Compromises....


The boost/vac signal lines are my next issue to tackle. Related thread >HERE< Mostly related to the addition of the two on-rail Radium FPDs. I do not know exactly where I want my signal source from yet. So I'd rather not punch multiple holes into this intake manifold without a solid plan.
Planning to tee the FPR signal into the BPV hose (plenum source). It would be really convenient if I could just tap the closest manifold runner for each FPD (runner source). However the FPR and FPD signals should be the same to avoid introducing pressure oscillations. So I am thinking to re-purpose the M8x1.25 bracket mount (used as IAT on SpecC). I can drill through and create another plenum source, then tee off of that towards each FPD. I had to search around for an appropriate tee fitting but I think I have a few on the way now. I could find ET40 versions but the only way I could get ET50 versions was to order a 25 count. Eeek...


Looking for some clear high temp polyurethane (maybe?) tubing to use for the FPR and FPD signal hoses. Clear so I can quickly confirm if there are any diaphragm/fuel leaks from the FPDs or the FPR. I mean if that was to happen it will run like c r a p but at least I might be able to visually narrow it down to the one to checkout first. If one of these lets go it will pump a good deal of fuel into the int manifold right away.



Last edited by JarHarms; 09-16-2018 at 05:34 PM.
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Old 09-24-2018, 12:55 PM   #272
JarHarms
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So far this fitting looks like it will work out. I now have two boost/vac lines for each of the rail mounted FPDs. Routing seems to clear everything fine. It will still need some abrasion protection in a few key areas. One more task item, CHECKED!
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Old 10-12-2018, 04:01 PM   #273
JarHarms
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FPR hose was added then sleeving added to those hoses. Additionally some heat sleeving was used on the under-manifold fuel hoses. I had more than a few distractions going on so hopefully I can get back to some WRX progress soon.
Still need to remove and plug the original FPR vac port in the manifold. The upper two DP holes on the FP turbine housing need to be spot-faced flat. Tomei's bellmouth needs some grinding to clear the RHS flange nut. I think I have some tools around here to take care of those tasks. After that I can get the turbine and DP section ready for coating. Found one of the parts I need to progress on my Clutch Master Cylinder change. Should get me a fairly OEM looking Spec-C setup with a reversed reservoir. Having AC makes this more challenging.

Last edited by JarHarms; 01-16-2019 at 07:17 PM.
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Old 01-05-2019, 11:13 PM   #274
JarHarms
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After taking a break to work on house projects, I'm ready to get back to the WRX. Filed some bolt clearance on the bellmouth. Then pulled the turbine housing off and ordered some reverse spotface tools. Came out pretty good, these will be shipped out for coating and hoping for a speedy return. Pretty sure I can start final assembly shorty after and ready for tuning this spring.
Got to get it in for a new airbag inflator. Still not sure how that is going to go down yet.




Exhaust parts are out for ceramic coating but it's going to be a few weeks or more. So while I wait, I have been looking for an elusive 7mm bleeder to -AN fitting. I'm not finding anything so far. The one place I could probably get a kit with that fitting I have heard ordering through them is a PITA. Clutch remote reservoir [37235fe050] as well as some S401 reinforcement plates are ordered. Probably should source the R180 rebuilt kit [ST3900055040] and some NISMO plates/disks while I can still get them. I sense my R180 needs new pinion and carrier bearings so may as well full-rebuild. I missed out on the 60deg ramps already.





Last edited by JarHarms; 02-15-2019 at 12:32 PM.
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Old 01-17-2019, 11:48 PM   #275
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such a nice build
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