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Old 01-30-2019, 12:50 PM   #276
JarHarms
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It is -23 degF ambient outside today with -45 degF wind chill, so um yea.
Between work emails I am trying to get a jig made up for the MAP adapter fitting. Just something to hold the fitting while I drill and tap for a barb fitting.
Still hunting for an adapter fitting from M7x1.0 brake flare to -3AN, before having some custom made. Looks like M7 banjos are equally elusive. Also "considering" options to redrill/tap from M7x1.0 to M10x1.0 which has readily available fittings. Not sure if there is enough boss material to support that change.
Subaru, why M7 bleeder screws?
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Old 02-06-2019, 11:47 PM   #277
jgallet
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If you still havenít found your front mount components, I have an older APS front mount setup off of my race car that I will not be using. Not sure about the specifics of the core but itís massive, and hard piping powdercoated yellow
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Old 02-07-2019, 08:24 AM   #278
JarHarms
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I think I have ordered the last of my wiring supplies. Should get the IAT relocation, front O2 extension, and 3.5bar MAP harnesses built now. The MAP adapter modification worked out great. Still no luck on the CMC fitting search, but that is not a critical project. Have been fitting up parts and working out small details over the past few weeks. Waiting for exh parts to return from coating. Maybe, just maybe I will have this turd together enough for sprint tuning.
Also trying to work out how to get some body parts to fix the rood panel and other things. It is dented and I have been wanting to get rid of the sunroof.








Quote:
Originally Posted by jgallet View Post
If you still haven’t found your front mount components, I have an older APS front mount setup off of my race car that I will not be using. Not sure about the specifics of the core but it’s massive, and hard piping powdercoated yellow
Thanks for the offer.
APS's parts are great but it does not meet the features I am looking for unfortunately. The Crawford piping is the only one that met most of my criteria and required least rework. The Process West FMIC piping was close as well but needs more rework. I expect once I return the FMIC project I will have to custom build it.

Last edited by JarHarms; 07-17-2019 at 12:26 PM.
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Old 02-08-2019, 12:18 AM   #279
BlueSTI4Me
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Nice progress here.
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Old 02-10-2019, 08:09 PM   #280
JarHarms
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got email that exh parts are on there way back from coating. Way sooner than I had expected. I might get this turd back together by spring after all.
In the meantime I removed the OEM FPR vac port.



Last edited by JarHarms; 02-15-2019 at 12:34 PM.
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Old 02-15-2019, 12:34 PM   #281
JarHarms
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These turned out great. Just need to clean and top coat with some high temp paint.


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Old 02-15-2019, 06:15 PM   #282
Boxer112
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Damn, that coating looks good
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Old 02-28-2019, 09:29 PM   #283
JarHarms
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Dangit. I would be re-installing the turbo and downpipe tonight if it wasn't for this effing dumb FP oil line kit.
Yes FP...I would surely like to have an oil feed line that is long enough to loop the engine bay twice. Oh you have a new kit...um great. I can already see that hose is also way too long so eff that. I am betting you do not put hose routing photos in your instructions because you can't possibly route it without it looking like azz. Great now I'm ordering new hoses to do this the right way.
My frustration level is rising...

Last edited by JarHarms; 07-17-2019 at 12:28 PM.
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Old 04-17-2019, 09:02 AM   #284
JarHarms
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Some progress made. While the topend parts were removed it left space to easily install this cylinder cooling loop. Here is the mess of stuff I used for the install. No install photos since it was pretty cramped in there and I was short on time.


Oh so much controversy and douchery around this OEM fitting. I still ended up using DOM's fitting.


I switched out the strait silicone hose for a pre-molded EPDM hose. It just fit better and besides silicone coolant hoses have no business on street cars.

Last edited by JarHarms; 04-17-2019 at 01:50 PM.
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Old 04-17-2019, 09:06 AM   #285
JarHarms
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Worked around FP's crappy oil feed line kit (1st gen). I looked at their 2nd gen kit which also appears to be too long. Ended up reusing FP's fittings but tossed their hose for another one. A 12" hose with strait/90el ends worked out better.


Finally there she sits for good.


Got the APS inlet back into place.
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Old 04-17-2019, 09:12 AM   #286
JarHarms
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Intake manifold back into place. Had to do some shifting around to get it positioned just right.


The Aluminati TGV o-rings are much better then the flat gaskets. However I can just see the right-rear o-ring gap still. Not expecting any issue but I would like to see all of those fully captured. I doubt they would push out under the boost I plan for, but it's a bit of an oversight.


It's a tight fit but everything is starting to fall into place. So all of that fit-remove-refit-remove-refit hassle is starting to pay off now.


FPR side is looking good. An -AN fitting is very tight to the AC pipe and tough to get wrenches in there, but it works. FPR placement should provide extra room for piping if FMIC is ever added.

Last edited by JarHarms; 04-17-2019 at 01:53 PM.
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Old 04-17-2019, 09:21 AM   #287
JarHarms
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Got the FPD hoses connected. Again it is pretty tight in there but seems to be working out.


Downpipe section installed. The Tomei dp is a bit closer to the AC drain hose than I think is necessary. So instead of cutting the hose short I ended up heat wrapping it. Also put some wrap on the engine bay harness since I was already in there.


Replaced the PVC tamper fitting with a shorted Sumitomo connector. Much smaller and cleaner looking.

Last edited by JarHarms; 04-17-2019 at 01:54 PM.
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Old 05-28-2019, 09:33 AM   #288
JarHarms
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Finally swapped over the trunk lid. Opted for a CF lid over the RASC alloy lid since I was not willing to pay more for the shipping than the lid itself. So I found a CF lid that was made as close as possible to my requirements. MPH's standard lid is stupid light around 5lbs which is easily half the weight of the 12lbs alloy lid and much less dent-able. No more keyhole which is okay but has a slight consequence (see below). Slightly annoyed that the M6 riv-nuts used keep me from using the M8 latch hardware. I wish it has the lower rubber bumpers but oh well. It fits as close to factory as a CF part could and that is what counts.

My WRX now doubles as a medieval catapult. Click...WHAM!


So I swapped out the rear torsion springs with the ones that came in the RA-R spoiler kit I bought a long while back. These "slightly" smaller springs still result in crude defense mechanism knocking out anyone standing nearby as it is being opened. Now I am searching for weaker torsion springs to use. I still have to drill the trunk lid for the spoiler. It's extra weight might help a little more however I recall it isn't that heavy. The holes are already marked on the lid. Used the template but I'm remeasuring a few more times prior to committing to the drill.

Oh and it looks great as-is but I will be sending it in to be painted SGM to match the body. Also a spoiler because I don't really dig the wingless look.

Last edited by JarHarms; 08-29-2019 at 01:31 PM.
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Old 05-28-2019, 11:40 AM   #289
96accord
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JarHarms View Post
Oh and it looks great as-is but I will be sending it in to be painted SGM to match the body. Also a spoiler because I don't really dig the wingless look.
WRX spoiler?
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Old 05-28-2019, 12:57 PM   #290
JarHarms
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96accord View Post
WRX spoiler?
WRX low spoiler was what I had removed. I did't dislike it but just want something different. Will now be a RA-R option spoiler....identical to the S204 but matte black. Not a trendy version but it's the factory one I like best on GDs. And I tend to do what I like Once I drink up the courage to drill this lid I'll take a photo with the spoiler attached.
Pretty certain I will SGM the lid and leave the spoiler matte black. Have not decided on what to paint the roof yet; SGM, glass Blk, or matte blk. Roof has to be painted since the fiber is not UV stable. Sort of depends on if I decide to add this RASC roof vent or not. I feel that SGM pained roof and vent cover will only make the vent trim and hardware stickout like a sore thumb. Black would hide the vent better but there is the matte -vs- gloss thing. I'd go gloss black but them it would look dumb with a matte black spoiler.
Also still looking for a proper way to re-do the catback finish from polished to oxidized titanium.

Last edited by JarHarms; 05-30-2019 at 10:04 AM.
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Old 05-30-2019, 10:00 AM   #291
JarHarms
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Use template, measure, measure, looks okay, sleep on it, test fit...huh the pedestals seem too far back , look at photos of actual RA-Rs and S204s to compare, yea this template has these located too far rearwards. REPEAT and glad I waited to drill any holes.
Also ordered some other torsion bars to try out in a few weeks. If those are in fact weak enough to work out; I will be ready to send some parts in for painting.





The placement I have so far does not work with this template that well. I tested this out on an OEM trunk lid a year ago or so and now recall the template lines did not follow the trunk shape that well back then. Weird since their template looks to be made from a part print and I confirmed the printout is a true 1:1 scale.

Last edited by JarHarms; 05-30-2019 at 10:05 AM.
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Old 05-30-2019, 01:40 PM   #292
96accord
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Ruining that beautiful trunk
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Old 05-30-2019, 04:00 PM   #293
JarHarms
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96accord View Post
Ruining that beautiful trunk
I am the RUINER
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Old 05-30-2019, 06:26 PM   #294
EastEndRaceshop
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LOVE that carbon fiber trunk! Looks so perfect!
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Old 06-03-2019, 11:07 AM   #295
JarHarms
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SGM

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So I did a thing this weekend since the monsoons took a break. I did have to do a few test fits and tweek the hole locations. That Subaru template is more off than I originally found. Point of no return...


Underside hardware did not need some of the included parts in the spoiler kit since there is less under frame on this CF lid. No issues there but I will probably use some different backup washers to reinforce more appropriately for CF. Those bell washers are meant for a bit more rearward location to clear the OEM lid curve, not really needed here.


Turned out great. As I expected it is a bit "wigglier" ( is that even a word?) than compared to being mounted on the Alloy or Steel lids. The movement comes from the forward bolting locations. I do not expect any issues but it is worth noting. Also contemplating swapping the clear/black 3rd stop lamp out for a JDM red/red one I have around. I just like red stop lamps better than clear lens red lit lamps.


Just have to get this lid painted once I test out those weaker torsion bars. I can already see that this will need a good deal of blocking work to get right for the paint to look right. Good deal of ripple that is hidden by the CF pattern right now.
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Old 06-03-2019, 01:49 PM   #296
96accord
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'15 Accord (Daily)

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Nice. Any pictures from further away yet?
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Old 06-03-2019, 02:59 PM   #297
JarHarms
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96accord View Post
Nice. Any pictures from further away yet?
None without my embarrassingly filthy garage.



Forgot that I also worked (for a smaller bit) in the engine bay. Picked up a fancy new Aluminati upper coolant tank offering...but one issue. No one mentioned that the coolant connection barb interferes with the under I/M coolant pipe. The OEM plastic tank will work but I figure it will fail eventually due to engine vibrations and now-compromised mounting points. I avoided the KillerB tank because of the the upper brass barb fitting. If this Aluminati tank just had a lower body similar to the KillerB tank then this would be perfection. So I ether have to bend that under I/M pipe, requiring removing the upper I/M. Or chuck this tank for now and use the OEM fantastic-plastic one till I have time to sort out a proper work around.

Last edited by JarHarms; 06-04-2019 at 03:06 PM.
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Old 06-04-2019, 03:04 PM   #298
JarHarms
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Well it is installed but it still kinks the rubber elbow a little.


Had to cut about this much off the rubber hose ends. For reference: 7/8" off the top end and 1" off the bottom end. I'd recommend smaller removals until just right, since all setups could vary.


Here is the final result. I'll end up taking the coolant pipe off the next time I have the I/M removed. Then bend it 10deg to the drivers side with proper tools, then install a new rubber elbow with just enough trimming.

Last edited by JarHarms; 06-05-2019 at 02:03 PM.
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Old 06-17-2019, 10:47 AM   #299
JarHarms
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Random info GD model roof vent parts
Lid Roof Ventilator Assembly [65430A] (Qty 1)
pick color: 65710FE000HD SY Sonic Yellow 13V - discontinued
pick color: 65710FE000MJ CGM Crystal Grey Metallic 48W
pick color: 65710FE000PG WRB WR Blue Pearl - 02C
pick color: 65710FE000RQ SSR San Remo Red - 22G
pick color: 65710FE000TG PSM Platinum Silver Metallic - 01G
pick color: 65710FE000VI MBP Midnight Black Pearl 08V
pick color: 65710FE000VW OBP Obsidian Black Pearl 32J
pick color: 65710FE000WG AW Aspen White 51E
lid includes: Label, Caution STI 65778fe000 [65778]
lid includes: Nut Plate, Side Window 765233010 [65288]
lid includes: Packing, Side Window 765262000 [65268]
lid includes: Packing, Roof Ventilator 65475fa120 [65475]
lid includes: Washer 73093aa000 [73388]
lid includes: Screw 904680001 [Q680001]
lid includes: Lock, Roof Ventilator 65733fe000 [65733]
lid includes: non-serviceable long and short edge trim glued around lid perimeter

Weatherstrip, Roof Ventilator “gasket” - 65762fe000 [65467H] (Qty 1)

non-serviceable washer gasket (Qty 4) is actually a square gasket applied directly onto the lid hinge (Qty 2)

Bracket, Lock Complete “vent frame” - 65754fe000 [65403N] (Qty 1)

Flange Nut – 023805000 [023805000] (Qty 4)

Tapping Screw, Pan Flange – 047104100 [047104100] (Qty 2)

Flange Screw – 904560007 [Q560007] (Qty 2) p/n sub 904560008

Tapping Screw, Truss Head – 045205163 [045205163] (Qty 2)

Cover, Roof “headliner trim” - 94461fe000ne [94461E] (Qty 1) Subaru light gray "NE" interior color

Clip, Roof Trim - 94415fa040ne [94480F] (Qty 7) Subaru light gray "NE" interior color


Decal Language ->
warning for operation of roof ventilator
do not operate roof ventilator while going faster than 80km/hr
do not get fingers caught in roof ventilator
do not allow children to operate roof ventilator
*not part of the decal but 80km/hr is around 49.7mph.



The outfits that offer up the complete roof vent kits are merging together all of the required parts for you. If you are sourcing these parts yourself you have to be mindful to order all required parts. Or like me, overlook that and order twice so you pay extra shipping costs.


If you have a sunroof then you're not installing this easily. You have to convert the sunroof over to non-sunroof first. This involves removing both windshield and rear glass, removing sunroof headliner, removing roof skin, removing sunroof assembly, installing cross support from non-sunroof car, reinstalling non-sunroof skin, reinstalling both windshield and rear glass, installing roof vent, then install non-sunroof headliner.


Consider that installing this roof vent will delete your overhead map lights. If having map lights are important to you then you need to come up with replacements.
Some suggestions: Gentex made older rear view mirrors that had map lights built into the bottom of the mirror assembly. Maybe some small form LED lights and a switch could be added into the roof vent trim panel.


The weak latch of the 65733fe000 Lock will inevitably fail. Plan to purchase 3-4 spares while you can still get them. Or consider an after market alloy handle from Drew Macdonald at https://subarusquad.bigcartel.com/ in New Zealand. His alloy latch will cost about the same as those 3-4 spares but it will last indefinitely and it looks super fancy. *circa 2019 Drew added a feature that allows transferring over the spring from the factory latch.






Last edited by JarHarms; 09-11-2019 at 09:09 AM.
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Old 06-17-2019, 10:49 AM   #300
JarHarms
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06 WRX Ltd
SGM

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New trunk torsion springs worked out great. Just the right amount of initial lift force. Get you the slight pop-up like factory. Then it holds the assembly up after opening the rest of the way.

Last edited by JarHarms; 06-21-2019 at 09:08 AM.
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