Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Sunday October 20, 2019
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC General > Member's Car Gallery

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.







* As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. 
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads. 
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-18-2017, 11:51 PM   #201
JarHarms
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
SGM

Default

Tonight I tinkered around with the replica (Kakumei) and the genuine Subaru RA-R spoilers. Added observation notes to >post #110< to keep that info together. Might have to go looking for a WRX wing to cannibalize. Working on the pedestals to see if I can get them closer to the spec drill holes. Then thinking about grafting this to the trunk lid I picked up to trial run...before I figure out what trunk lid I want to use with the actual Subaru version.

*Note the 3rd brake lamps are serviceable and you can order one for $250+ OUCH!
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

Last edited by JarHarms; 07-25-2019 at 02:49 PM.
JarHarms is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Old 05-19-2017, 10:31 AM   #202
Bikelok
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 254851
Join Date: Aug 2010
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Nor-Cal Bay Area
Vehicle:
2002 WRX wagon 5mt
PSM

Default

So much goodness going on here.

Extremely well thought out and executed.
Bikelok is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2017, 10:38 AM   #203
JarHarms
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
SGM

Default

Kakumei is bolted in place but it's still going to need some TLC to get fitted the way I want. It's hardly at a point of deserving any photos yet.
Also experimenting with some grade2 Ti plate. Will be blue coloring it but I am stuck between using heat or DC anodizing methods. I figure the heat coloring is more durable/longer lasting than anodizing and the equipment is easy enough to set up. However the heat method might risk warping the plate too. It is decently thick plate so depending on how I apply the heat I can probably limit warping. Have not decided on how the surface needs to be prepped yet. The surface oxidation has to come off but not sure if polish, sand, media blast, etc.
Rectangular plate so not sure if I want to color around the edges only or just color across the entire plate surface. Hmm...

Last edited by JarHarms; 05-23-2017 at 11:46 AM.
JarHarms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2017, 01:32 AM   #204
VWci
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 260436
Join Date: Oct 2010
Chapter/Region: International
Location: Ankara/Turkiye
Vehicle:
2003 EDM WRX
JBP

Default

JarHarms you have a very nice car and your topic is very informative for gd chassis lovers.

Do you have a sound clip of the the tomei 440010? Would you share it?
VWci is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2017, 09:24 AM   #205
JarHarms
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
SGM

Default

Sorry I have never taken any sounds clips. I tend to think those are pretty subjective depending on what equipment was used, mic placement, and a slew of other test conditions. So I never really put much thought into making any. All I can say is that it seems to sound like any other Tomei Ti on a EJ25 with an oem downpipe and exh manifold.
It would be certainly louder with an aftermarket downpipe, cattless downpipe, larger turbo, etc. Probably different tone with an aftermarket header and certainly different with equal length or twinscroll. Probably not a big help but it's the best I can throw at you now.

Planning to pick up some coolant on the way home form work today. This should be the last needed for the Tbelt change I need to complete soon. Updating to APv3 so will have to run through that mess. They said I can use my v2 map on the v3 with key from them...we will see if that holds true. I do not have the time to eff around with the ATR videos and testing right now. Eventually though.

Last edited by JarHarms; 05-31-2017 at 09:30 AM.
JarHarms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2017, 12:05 PM   #206
JarHarms
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
SGM

Default

Two gallons of coolant should tide me over for awhile after I get some distilled to mix with.
Since I've been driving this more, the lack of Bluetooth calling is annoying. So I looked around for a replacement for the Pioneer. Wanted an actual volume knob instead of buttons. I don't really need a disk drive. Don't really care about HD radio. Not really wanting to run any external amp. Decided to give the Sony XAV-AX100 a try. I wish it had two (instead of one) USB ports so I could connect my phone and an external USB thumbdrive at the same time. It does have Car Play for now but soon I'm dumping this crappy iPhone so Android Auto later. Hoping that times out with WAZE returning to Android Auto support.
Lame marketing photo for now, to be replaced with an installed photo soon.


APv3 showed up so I'll have to start figuring out the carry over process soon. I want to get the APv2b on it's way back ASAP to speed up the upgrade refund. Will see how this v2 to v3 map conversion works out. Looked around a bit last night to figure out a few good mounting locations. Hope to get that accomplished prior to starting the Tbelt/radiator work.
JarHarms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2017, 06:14 PM   #207
Raohden
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 264819
Join Date: Nov 2010
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Head of the Anti-Prius League
Vehicle:
2005 WRX
6-Speed 2.0 Tomei M7760

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JarHarms View Post
Got to drive some this weekend. It has been far too long since the last time. Alignment turned out informative. I'm not 100% convinced the caster/SAI calculations were done correctly though. I'll still have some work to do there.

I have followed your self made ALK with the Forester housings and STi bushings with great interest. I am about to pull the trigger on doing the same, as the Poly in my PSRS is just too stiff for the roads here. I have Group N everywhere else, so I'd like an ALK to match.

Could share you alignment numbers, especially the caster??

I'm very curious on how it worked out for you.
Raohden is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2017, 08:11 AM   #208
JarHarms
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
SGM

Default

The hybrid forester/SpecC transverse links are working to my expectations. I cannot detect any determinable loss from the outgoing ALKs. The ALK's caster was mostly replaced by the 2004-06 STI caster adding LCAs installed, as well as flipped transverse pins (aka: free caster mod). Top that off with no more polyurethane, no more annual greasing, no more sub-par hardware plating, no more gold anodizing. Well I actually liked the gold anodizing.

Value wise It probably worked out well for me due to having the SpecC bushings included with my LCAs already. If I had to source those separately then it would be around the cost of an ALK kit. That might have had me rethink my plan of attack.
I really wish the GTspec ALKs were still made.

The alignment rack showed 4.2deg caster on both RHS and LHS. I was hoping for a bit more caster than that. There are a few things I can still do, however the even side-side was pleasing. I'd take the caster values with a grain of salt though. The SAI measurement was not even side-side. This is not something I have seen before. It was odd to me that SAI could be that side-side different and not see any difference in caster. The actual values don't really matter but camber was pretty close side-side and toe was zero. I'd rather not throw out numbers which I am not confident are true. I need to investigate the strut assembly install angle and a few other areas to see if those are cause.
I bought some hub stands to try out and will build some slipper plates. Those will let me tinker in my garage rather than on the shop's rack. I think I can dial in the settings I want and then head over the same rack and see how it reads out. It's not a soon project though...



I had very little time this weekend since most of it was spent at Road America. The APv2b is unmarried, APv3 is married, and it took minutes to accomplish yesterday. Just waiting for the map conversion key to arrive before I re-check and mail the APv2b back. I removed the upper (over center dash vent) ProClip mount since I did not like its implementation. If any heat was used it would spread out, release from the vent trim, then drop the mount/adapter/phone. It sort of worked if I slid it more to the RHS to increase the tension hold...still not quite right for my continued use. Then I added the two other ProClip mounts which are "mostly" better:
The mid center console (RHS near headunit) is where I plan to mount the APv3, I just need to get a 2prong adapter.
The lower center console (RHS near gear lever) is where I plan to mount my phone; just need to get a magnetic mount.





Last edited by JarHarms; 09-05-2017 at 03:37 PM.
JarHarms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2017, 11:30 PM   #209
JarHarms
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
SGM

Default

APv2 map now living in the APv3. Easy peazy.

Final formed my new foot plate and rounded the corners. Ohh pretty white sparks. Just need to drill the mounting holes and figure out the finish I want to end up with. I honestly think I'me going to skip the heat coloring since I like the standard oxidized finish best. Goes better with the gear knob but I doubt anyone would look close enough to notice.

Last edited by JarHarms; 09-05-2017 at 03:25 PM.
JarHarms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2017, 11:45 AM   #210
Raohden
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 264819
Join Date: Nov 2010
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Head of the Anti-Prius League
Vehicle:
2005 WRX
6-Speed 2.0 Tomei M7760

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JarHarms View Post
The hybrid forester/SpecC transverse links are working to my expectations. I cannot detect any determinable loss from the outgoing ALKs. The ALK's caster was mostly replaced by the 2004-06 STI caster adding LCAs installed, as well as flipped transverse pins (aka: free caster mod). Top that off with no more polyurethane, no more annual greasing, no more sub-par hardware plating, no more gold anodizing. Well I actually liked the gold anodizing.

Value wise It probably worked out well for me due to having the SpecC bushings included with my LCAs already. If I had to source those separately then it would be around the cost of an ALK kit. That might have had me rethink my plan of attack.
I really wish the GTspec ALKs were still made.

The alignment rack showed 4.2deg caster on both RHS and LHS. I was hoping for a bit more caster than that. There are a few things I can still do, however the even side-side was pleasing. I'd take the caster values with a grain of salt though. The SAI measurement was not even side-side. This is not something I have seen before. It was odd to me that SAI could be that side-side different and not see any difference in caster. The actual values don't really matter but camber was pretty close side-side and toe was zero. I'd rather not throw out numbers which I am not confident are true. I need to investigate the strut assembly install angle and a few other areas to see if those are cause.
Thanks for the info on that! I am gonna assemble that up as my next project. My caster angles are 5.59 and 5.97 - My SAI was a little off per side by .75 degree. I have 2004 STi control arms, and also Whiteline Com C top hats. I can still flip my pins, it will be interesting to see how it goes. The PSRS you can at least grease them easily, but feeling every bump in the road and needed to correct for them constantly is an annoyance.

I hear you loud and clear on the GTSPEC ALK! I can't believe nobody in the aftermarket has filled that demand.......
Raohden is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2017, 01:57 PM   #211
JarHarms
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
SGM

Default

Interesting. What position are your Com-C tophats mounted, have any photo showing that? I considered using those but WL's prior bearing kerfuffle makes me hesitant. My SAI was off much more than that, this is why I suspect a strut is installed off-angle from the other side. or at least similar to that. Car drives fine but...details.

I thought I found a possible ALK that uses the Forester housings and a solid (non-filled) bushing. Not confirmed though and also no idea on rubber durometer. It's on my list of side inquiries. My forester bushings are leaking so I planned to get some to look over and install.
JarHarms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2017, 10:18 AM   #212
JarHarms
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
SGM

Default

whoops
JarHarms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2017, 10:18 AM   #213
JarHarms
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
SGM

Default

Heel plate done. Needs some backing washers but pretty happy with it.

JarHarms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2017, 03:13 PM   #214
Raohden
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 264819
Join Date: Nov 2010
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Head of the Anti-Prius League
Vehicle:
2005 WRX
6-Speed 2.0 Tomei M7760

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JarHarms View Post
Interesting. What position are your Com-C tophats mounted, have any photo showing that? I considered using those but WL's prior bearing kerfuffle makes me hesitant. My SAI was off much more than that, this is why I suspect a strut is installed off-angle from the other side. or at least similar to that. Car drives fine but...details.

I thought I found a possible ALK that uses the Forester housings and a solid (non-filled) bushing. Not confirmed though and also no idea on rubber durometer. It's on my list of side inquiries. My forester bushings are leaking so I planned to get some to look over and install.
Cool, definitely update us no that. It would be nice if we could install something like that without having to resort to piecing things together.

I have had no bearing issues with my Com Cs whatsoever. I installed them in November 2015, and driven a lot since then. I did a lot of research online about the bearing failures, and it seemed Whiteline was using an open style bearing, leading to the failures from road debris, water etc. The one I have came as fully sealed units, Rallysport Direct confirmed this with me before I bought them, and stated the issue was resolved. So far, I am very happy.

I have mine set to maximum camber/caster:

Raohden is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2017, 07:21 PM   #215
JarHarms
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
SGM

Default

Sony is mostly installed now, it just needs final buttoning up. It fits better in the dash once I made some modifications. Cleaned the garage and did a junk purge. Now I'm back into the ATR lessons to finish up the last 25%. I have mixed thoughts about this.

I tend to be EFI U biased so their material is fine but it's cut up into annoyingly tiny parts. I wish they did not cut it up so much since it sort of appears to artificially diminish their relevance.
The COBB material is...well how do I put this kindly. It's borderline agonizing. Vimeo sucks by the way. I can't wait to have this over with.

Last edited by JarHarms; 06-17-2017 at 07:35 PM.
JarHarms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2017, 09:51 PM   #216
JarHarms
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
SGM

Default

Sony headunit was sunken in more that I liked. It also made the volume knob harder to grip.


I re-drilled mounting holes forward 5mm and also removed some material from the radio trim panel.


Fits in much better now. So far I like this Sony deck better than my older Pioneer. Got the APv3 mount sorted out too.


Side mounted USB port clears the glovebox and seems to work out well.

Last edited by JarHarms; 09-05-2017 at 03:38 PM.
JarHarms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2017, 12:11 PM   #217
JarHarms
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
SGM

Default

A few drives in with the new radio have worked out great. Did some fooling around with the AP maps. The T-belt and radiator job is probably up next and might be the last for awhile. I'll be tethered to this for the next 6-7 months with very little free time.


110amp alt (08+ WRX) 23700AA521 -> 23700AA522
110amp alt (06-07 Tribeca) 23700AA510 [Mitsu A3TG0591]
130amp alt (08+ Tribeca) 23700AA580 -> 23700AA581 [Mitsu A003TJ2091]

Last edited by JarHarms; 07-01-2017 at 05:39 PM.
JarHarms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2017, 04:30 PM   #218
JarHarms
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
SGM

Default

Timing belt job is mostly done, just waiting on some new bolts to come in. Going to tackle deleting the oil heat exchanger while I wait. Then finish up with the Koyo.

Appears PhotoBucket is committing virtual seppuku this week.. Awesome. This will no doubt damage the technical knowledge on many forums and further drop forum usage. Hey we can all just Instagram and look at my huge flares, painted tyres, and the 19yro girl laying semi naked across my hood.
I really need to finish up moving my images over to another host then dropping PB like it's 1999.

Last edited by JarHarms; 07-01-2017 at 04:43 PM.
JarHarms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2017, 10:21 AM   #219
KeatonHo
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 463653
Join Date: Feb 2017
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Billings, MT
Vehicle:
2003 WRX Wagon
@vader.wrx

Default

Everything is so precise with your car. It's so aesthetically and mentally pleasing to know it has all been done the right way. Builds today are so short lived, "I had it slammed last summer but now I'm lifting it and going with different fender flares for this summer." It's tiring. Yours has been done slow and methodically. It's a progression that just looks and feels right. I'm somewhat new to my car and to the whole build scene, so I hope once I'm out of college and with a good job I can put even half this dedication into my car. I have a couple of questions for you if you're up for them.

Where do you find all this info? I'm sure it's accumulated over the years, but it seems like you know JDM/EDM/USDM pretty well, is there a place you know to go to where I can find most of this info side by side? Also where I could find all the different versions of the STi? I'm having a hard time piecing together all this info in a timely manner.

Where do you source parts from? I've been trying eBay for just some Spec C control arms but these people don't even know what they're selling. I'd like to read what I'm getting before I buy it, not some generic description they use for all their parts, you know?

Side note.. I've been looking into widening the stance of my wagon with STi bits. Any suggestions for quality parts and also where I should swap to Group N bushings? So far I've come up with
04-06 Spec C aluminum LCAs
05-07 STi aluminum lateral links
I'll need sway bars, CV axles, etc, but I wondered about your thoughts on those. As in, are these the ones you would prefer? And if so, which bushings would you swap to Group N. I noticed you kept the Spec C bushings on your LCAs, so I wondered if you had similar thoughts about the bushings in the lateral links.

Also, with that, is there a specific year you would think to use for the transverse links? The Forester bracket + Group N bush was a great idea and a good alternative for a non-poly ALK, so I'm just trying to optimize the results. I know you said something about flipping it around and shimming it too? I didn't quite understand that..

Thanks in advance,
Keaton
KeatonHo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2017, 01:22 PM   #220
JarHarms
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
SGM

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by KeatonHo View Post
Everything is so precise with your car. It's so aesthetically and mentally pleasing to know it has all been done the right way. Builds today are so short lived, "I had it slammed last summer but now I'm lifting it and going with different fender flares for this summer." It's tiring. Yours has been done slow and methodically. It's a progression that just looks and feels right.
Thanks. You're probably giving me more credit than deserved though. The snail pace I have been on is merely as result of a sporadic influx of time/money. Additionally all my photos are still in Photobucket limbo.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KeatonHo View Post
I'm somewhat new to my car and to the whole build scene, so I hope once I'm out of college and with a good job I can put even half this dedication into my car.
During school there is only so much you can accomplish with ramen meals and borrowing friends' garages. After school it does improve as cashflow increases and reduction in study efforts. Then usually another slowdown when house, wife, kids. It happens fast is all I can say.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KeatonHo View Post
I have a couple of questions for you if you're up for them. Where do you find all this info? I'm sure it's accumulated over the years, but it seems like you know JDM/EDM/USDM pretty well, is there a place you know to go to where I can find most of this info side by side? Also where I could find all the different versions of the STi? I'm having a hard time piecing together all this info in a timely manner.
I just dig around until I find some info then expand from there. Forums were always a great help especially since the Subaru ones got so much traffic. I have a hunch that those will slowly taper off though. The newer models, drastic changes in trends, and Photobucket's recent D-bag move. I use some part number resources like Subaru's Part Site, Opposed Forces, and a few based in Japan. The minkara.carview site is also useful but you either have to read kanji or make use of site translation. After awhile all the STI models will make sense. Since you have a 2003 WRX Wagon you are probably most interested in STI models up to GDB-appliedF/G. 2001-2007 timeframes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KeatonHo View Post
Where do you source parts from? I've been trying eBay for just some Spec C control arms but these people don't even know what they're selling. I'd like to read what I'm getting before I buy it, not some generic description they use for all their parts, you know?
Yes you have to be careful with eBay purchases. Honestly you have to be careful with purchases from any auto part importer. They are not always accurate so you have to really look at the photos and know what you are buying.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KeatonHo View Post
Side note.. I've been looking into widening the stance of my wagon with STi bits. Any suggestions for quality parts and also where I should swap to Group N bushings? So far I've come up with
04-06 Spec C aluminum LCAs
05-07 STi aluminum lateral links
I'll need sway bars, CV axles, etc, but I wondered about your thoughts on those. As in, are these the ones you would prefer? And if so, which bushings would you swap to Group N. I noticed you kept the Spec C bushings on your LCAs, so I wondered if you had similar thoughts about the bushings in the lateral links.
So it sounds as you are going from a wagon trackwidth...past sedan trackwidth...and on to 2005-07 STI trackwidth. Is there a specific use you have planned for your WRX?

Quote:
Originally Posted by KeatonHo View Post
Also, with that, is there a specific year you would think to use for the transverse links? The Forester bracket + Group N bush was a great idea and a good alternative for a non-poly ALK, so I'm just trying to optimize the results. I know you said something about flipping it around and shimming it too? I didn't quite understand that..
The route I took is probably beyond what most would want to replicate. I'd suggest if you end up with the earlier STI LCAs then just stick to the solid rubber transverse bushings that come with them. Flipping the pin refers to the "free caster mod" that turns the pin around to move the balljoiint position forwards. You can take that a bit further by adding a spacer (with longer bolts) between that pin and the LCA to move the balljoint position further yet.
JarHarms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2017, 01:30 PM   #221
JarHarms
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
SGM

Default

OEM damper -vs- Fluidamper 531101
OEM has four index bores that the Company23 crank pulley tool works great on.
Fluidamper has threaded index holes (5/16-18 thread) that no crank pulley tool works with. I believe the index holes are 2.800" bcd. Fluidamper provides none of this info on their site or with the actual product.
OEM tightly slip fits on the crank snout but can be installed/removed by hand.
Fluidamper has a slight friction fit on the last half of the slip. The M14x1.50 pulley bolt will draw the Fluidamper on the rest of the way. That said it will require some sort of dampner tool to remove this later on.
While not recommended, the OEM damper could probably survive a slight drop on the floor.
The Fluidamper if dropped on the floor, basically is not worth the risk of installing. It makes for an expensive coaster.
JarHarms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2017, 03:06 PM   #222
KeatonHo
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 463653
Join Date: Feb 2017
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Billings, MT
Vehicle:
2003 WRX Wagon
@vader.wrx

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JarHarms View Post
Additionally all my photos are still in Photobucket limbo.
I noticed that... hopefully you can get them back to normal soon! I had to create good mental images when reading

Quote:
Originally Posted by JarHarms View Post
I just dig around until I find some info then expand from there. Forums were always a great help especially since the Subaru ones got so much traffic. I have a hunch that those will slowly taper off though. The newer models, drastic changes in trends, and Photobucket's recent D-bag move. I use some part number resources like Subaru's Part Site, Opposed Forces, and a few based in Japan. The minkara.carview site is also useful but you either have to read kanji or make use of site translation. After awhile all the STI models will make sense. Since you have a 2003 WRX Wagon you are probably most interested in STI models up to GDB-appliedF/G. 2001-2007 timeframes.
Just checked out Opposed Forces and that site is pretty great. I have to agree with forums declining.. they are outdated I think. IMO I think they should make them more user friendly, like maybe not even having posters have to go through all the problems of photobucket. Why not just be able to post directly to here?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JarHarms View Post
So it sounds as you are going from a wagon trackwidth...past sedan trackwidth...and on to 2005-07 STI trackwidth. Is there a specific use you have planned for your WRX?


The route I took is probably beyond what most would want to replicate. I'd suggest if you end up with the earlier STI LCAs then just stick to the solid rubber transverse bushings that come with them. Flipping the pin refers to the "free caster mod" that turns the pin around to move the balljoiint position forwards. You can take that a bit further by adding a spacer (with longer bolts) between that pin and the LCA to move the balljoint position further yet.
Uses for my WRX.. hmm. well it's a DD in Montana, and last winter I got high centered and stuck in the snow. I was really not happy about it, and also my back struts were shot. So I decided to use XT suspension to lift it up, and at the time I heard of a guy going to sedan trackwidth to improve geometry and camber angles. My end goal is to be able to have this as my project car and not my DD(which means getting back to normal height), but for now in college and everything, I've got to have it lifted to get around. Increasing track width was pretty appealing to me, due to dialing out the camber a bit from the tiny bit of positive I recieved, and I decided that would be my next route. So then I figured, why not do it the right way the first time, with quality parts. I knew if I did sedan parts now I would want STi later, so I figured I'd take a good long look into STi and if it would be worth it. So far it seems like it will be.

Right after I asked about the free caster mod I figured it out. I forgot to edit it off the post haha. I'm still halfways thinking about using the transverse brackets off of a Forester. It seems like a great idea to me, just somewhat worried about how hard it is to press out the Forester bushing and in the meantime save the Spec C bushing from the STi bracket, then press it back in. I've got a guy who has some experience pressing bushings but I'm not sure he's capable of being that... careful.

Another question. Have you found an even close match for STi red spray paint? not looking for "pink," but the newer models of red. I noticed you have all of the powder coating info, but I'm in search of a spray paint

Last edited by KeatonHo; 07-20-2017 at 12:26 PM.
KeatonHo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2017, 09:11 AM   #223
JarHarms
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
SGM

Default

Not sure on the STI red paint, I have not really looked into it before. Grimmspeed might still have the Cherry Blossom Red (CBR) matched paint. It's more pink than red used on the 2008+ model years.

Last edited by JarHarms; 07-14-2017 at 09:24 AM.
JarHarms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2017, 12:47 PM   #224
JarHarms
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
SGM

Default

Timing Belt job is done. Company23 tools did make the job easier.



Installed a Tomei belt guide because why not? It is only slightly wider than OEM and has no additional wrap area. I think I should have saved my $45 and stuck with OEM. A leftover Gates belt clearance tool worked well with a normal Tbelt to get the proper airgap.





Installed a Fluidamper becasue why not? Had to do the typical trim on the center belt cover. Company23 tool would not fit (4bolt -vs- 3bolt) but I worked something else out to torque the crank bolt. Might modify the Company23 tool to work with this pulley later on. Those bores are 5/16" - 18 threads so head to the hardware store.



Just finishing up. The cooling plate needs to be trimmed to fit around the Koyo radiator still. Replaced all the coolant hoses with OEM rubber and Norma clamps. Silicone coolant hoses on anything but a race purpose car is dumb. Yea I said it. Dumb. Fresh Subaru coolant and distilled mix put back in. Absolutely no conditioners were used.


Oh something to note. I needed a new coolant pump for the Tbelt change and I planned to delete the oem oil cooler (heat exchanger). So I decided to go 2008+ WRX version [21111aa250] which already has the coolant port blocked. Yamada always makes me think "Space Battleship Yamato", not sure why.

Last edited by JarHarms; 07-28-2017 at 08:53 AM.
JarHarms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2017, 01:26 PM   #225
JarHarms
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
SGM

Default

Also deleted the OEM oil/water heat exchanger. Just note there are reasons you might want to do this as well as not want to do this. You will have to figure that out for yourself. I am doing this primarily to prepare for the rest of my Spec-C air-to-oil cooler installation. Oil warm-up (from cold start) will take longer to achieve. I also noticed about +5psi EOP on the higher rpm range than I had before.

Decided to remove the whole coolant line instead of looping it. Needs the plug [11021aa121] to replace the cylinder block port. Then the whole pipe and hoses can be discarded.




Goodby parts....


Since I have the pleasure of a 2006-07 WRX, there are additional issues to address. First the heat exchanger is mounted on an angled assembly which also has to be removed.


The heat exchanger and connector pipe is replaced with this shorter connector pipe [15018aa090].


The assembly was angled rearwards to clear the odd-ball exhaust header shape. 2006-07 WRX on top compared to 2004-07 STI (2002-05 WRX) on bottom.


Reusing the 2006-07 WRX exhaust header just won't clear the filter w/o the angled mount.


The other exhaust header will work much better. Glad I scooped one of those up a long time ago.


Here it is. Not the best photo but you get the idea.

Last edited by JarHarms; 07-28-2017 at 08:54 AM.
JarHarms is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New Act 6 Puck For 2006/2010 Wrx Or 2005/2006 Legacy Push Type aaguirre Drivetrain 18 11-18-2009 09:20 AM
WTT: 2006 BLACK STI Wing for 2006 BLACK WRX wing ILSMKU2 SCIC Private Classifieds 3 08-02-2006 09:27 PM
2006 Mitsubishi Evolution IX vs. 2006 Subaru WRX STi (edmunds.com) NYCshopper News & Rumors 109 05-07-2006 04:54 PM
Socal: 2006 OBP wrx winged trunk, trade for 2006 wingless trunk mattjk Private 'Wanted' Classifieds 5 05-02-2006 02:17 PM

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:32 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2019 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2019, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.