Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Friday March 29, 2024
Home Forums Images WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Service & Maintenance

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.







* As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. 
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads. 
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-16-2018, 02:38 PM   #1
Fuzzymuzzle
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 483550
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Southern USA
Vehicle:
2003 wrx
red

Default 1998 forester 2.5 ac compressor clutch removal HELP

I am trying to remove the ac compressor clutch but I dont see the 10mm bolt that is holding it on. There is a triangular plate with a kind of rounded center bolt with a hole in the middle for what looks like an allen wrench but I cannot find a size to fit it, 4 is too small and 5 is too big. Do I just pop this front plate off? I tried to pry at it a bit and it was not coming off easily. Please help, I have been watching videos for days and it seems everyone starts after the plate is removed and they can see the 10mm bolt. If anyone knows what I am talking about please help, if pics would help I can take them later but it looks like this, a kind of traingular plate that is on the very front of the clutch and also seems to cover the bolt holes for pushing the clutch off https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-A-C-Comp....c100677.m4598
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Fuzzymuzzle is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Old 05-17-2018, 12:13 AM   #2
Fuzzymuzzle
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 483550
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Southern USA
Vehicle:
2003 wrx
red

Default no one?

really? I stumped the nasioc crew? No one has worked on ac compressors? I have found more than one that looks like this with no 10mm bolt showing so there must be a way to get behind it some how...
Fuzzymuzzle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2018, 12:22 PM   #3
Fuzzymuzzle
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 483550
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Southern USA
Vehicle:
2003 wrx
red

Default Please

Really? Here are some pics of the compressor with said triangular plate covering the bolt holes and 10mm center bolt. I am amazed that NO ONE on this forum knows what this is, I usually get answers in hours/minutes. I guess there are more subaru specialists than there are AC specialists here. I mean this is practically the first step, NO ONE had to go through this? NO ONE has had to pull the ac clutch off and seen this?

OH WAIT I CANT PUT PICTURES ON HERE UNLESS I PAY FOR IT WHAT?!?! ARAGAHGAHAGHGAGHAGAHAGAHGAHGAHGHGHHGAHAGHAGA
Fuzzymuzzle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2018, 12:30 PM   #4
Fuzzymuzzle
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 483550
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Southern USA
Vehicle:
2003 wrx
red

Default

ok I registered with imgur so maybe they will let me put pics up lets c

https://fuzzynutsss.imgur.com/all/

not really sure if that worked I am just an ANGRY OLD MAN
Fuzzymuzzle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2018, 01:04 PM   #5
Fuzzymuzzle
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 483550
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Southern USA
Vehicle:
2003 wrx
red

Default

ok obviously that didn't work so here, let me try again

Fuzzymuzzle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2018, 11:25 PM   #6
Fuzzymuzzle
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 483550
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Southern USA
Vehicle:
2003 wrx
red

Default

Ok I think it must be a torx bolt that someone previously has tried to get off and rounded it a bit. I couldn't find a bit that quite fit but don't exactly have a full set(without looking a bit for them) so tomorrow I will buy another full set. So hard for me to keep those bits together as I use them in construction work AND car work so they get spread out. I don't really know why I am responding to my own posts, I guess just in case anyone is keeping up with this. Am I in the right place for AC stuff?
Fuzzymuzzle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2018, 02:03 PM   #7
Charlie-III
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 30669
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: USA, North NJ, 07456
Vehicle:
1998 Legacy 2.5GT
Silver Sleeper BK, 5MT

Default

OK, my help for what it's worth.
I do some things with AC, but limited.

Do NOT remove the triangular plate.....don't....... that is the flex plate that allows the outer pulley to flex into the inner bit to drive the compressor.
I just looked at my '98 Legacy OEM system. I have a 10mm bolt. Maybe yours was worked on before and the bolt was changed.
I have US and metric allens as well as a good selection of Torx bits.

When you pull the clutch off, you NEED to grab the inner part, not the outer.

Why are you doing this? If the clutch does not engage, typical is the system is low pressure, thus a safety kills the clutch circuit. Adding Freon may make it cycle.....
Charlie-III is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2018, 04:48 PM   #8
Fuzzymuzzle
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 483550
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Southern USA
Vehicle:
2003 wrx
red

Default

The 'air gap' between the clutch and the compressor can become to wide and the clutch has problems engaging/staying engaged. You can remedy this by removing one of the small metal shims inside the clutch plate, despite the piece being 'non-serviceable'. I went out of town but now have returned and will resume on this later....if anyone gives a hoot
Fuzzymuzzle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2018, 05:03 PM   #9
Charlie-III
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 30669
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: USA, North NJ, 07456
Vehicle:
1998 Legacy 2.5GT
Silver Sleeper BK, 5MT

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuzzymuzzle View Post
The 'air gap' between the clutch and the compressor can become to wide and the clutch has problems engaging/staying engaged. You can remedy this by removing one of the small metal shims inside the clutch plate, despite the piece being 'non-serviceable'. I went out of town but now have returned and will resume on this later....if anyone gives a hoot
Ummmm......OK?

This is related to your original question how?

While you may have a "fix", it is likely short lived.

I will say I am a cheap SOB, but even I draw the line somewhere unless I am dumping the car soon.
Charlie-III is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2018, 05:05 PM   #10
Charlie-III
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 30669
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: USA, North NJ, 07456
Vehicle:
1998 Legacy 2.5GT
Silver Sleeper BK, 5MT

Default

BTW.......
Fill in your basic geographic info and some basic info on the vehicle.........OK?
Charlie-III is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2018, 10:59 AM   #11
Fuzzymuzzle
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 483550
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Southern USA
Vehicle:
2003 wrx
red

Default

You asked why I was doing it so I explained

100k miles extra on a compressor is NOT a short lived fix in my book or anyone else I know.

If your compressor ever starts cycling too frequently or clutch starts sputtering look into it, unless you are rich and can afford a new compressor at the first sign of trouble. I cannot. I am poor.

This car that I am working on currently is a 98 forester as stated in the title of the thread but I just bought a 97 imp outback sport that has the EXACT compressor with the 10mm bolt absent in favor of the torx bolt, just like I am looking at in the fozzy. It is also starting to do the exact same thing so if this fix works in the fozzster I will try it again in the imp.
Fuzzymuzzle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2018, 02:22 PM   #12
Charlie-III
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 30669
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: USA, North NJ, 07456
Vehicle:
1998 Legacy 2.5GT
Silver Sleeper BK, 5MT

Default

OK, I am not saying what you want to do is wrong or stupid.
OK?

Your question has been, "how do I remove the AC pulley?".
I gave thoughts.

You never stated why you wanted to remove it.
Then you discuss 2 different cars beyond what is in your signature.
Please, look at from our viewpoint.......

Clutch cycling a lot is more common to be low gas in the system or a poor connection to the clutch.

Yes, I am all for making things work for as long as I can.

I am guessing you have an issue (not stated) and are trying a cheap fix.
Tell us WHY you want to remove the clutch. I will infer you have a cycling compressor and don't want to replace it along with the cost of refilling the system.

Please let us know where my assumptions are incorrect.
Charlie-III is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2018, 02:33 PM   #13
CosmoTheCat
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 3409
Join Date: Jan 2001
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Oly
Vehicle:
98 My FMIC
Is bigger than yours.

Default

From my experience, the air gap can become an issue and yes, taking a shim or two out to get it back within spec is a perfectly appropriate fix. I've done it before, but it's been about 7 years. I have a cheap auto-parts store seal driver kit that I modified the steel plate to use for pulling Subaru AC clutches. I have no idea what years/models anymore.

If the clutch doesn't engage at all, I'd suspect air gap, if pressures are within spec. Easy way to tell is to check for voltage at the compressor clutch connector when you turn the AC on. If it's got voltage, your pressures are fine (ish, enough to run the system anyway). If it engages then drops, cycling, either pressure is low or your relay is failing.

I'll go look at my stuff and I'll be back.
CosmoTheCat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2018, 09:24 PM   #14
Fuzzymuzzle
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 483550
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Southern USA
Vehicle:
2003 wrx
red

Default

ok I got the clutch off with the torx bit I had suspected would work! HUZZAH! There was a bunch of gunk under there so I cleaned it up a bit but I did not see a single damn shim in the clutch. So I had to be creative and think 'ok these shims are there to increase the gap, and removing one would pull the clutch just a taaaaaad closer to the magnet so how do I do this without having a shim to remove' so I stuck some metal wire up under the 'flex plate' at the places where it made contact with the clutch, pushing the clutch in a bit. It worked!!!!!

for a while then it spun so fast it simply threw the wire off of it and immediately stopped working again. I would say it worked for a good 10 minutes with ice cold air. Tomorrow I will try and make some make-shift shims to wedge under the flex plate that wont go shooting off like ninja stars when the clutch engages! lol I will keep y'all updated just in case anyone is following along
Fuzzymuzzle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2018, 01:20 PM   #15
Charlie-III
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 30669
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: USA, North NJ, 07456
Vehicle:
1998 Legacy 2.5GT
Silver Sleeper BK, 5MT

Default

Good test of clutch power is jumper battery power when the engine is running.
Does not engage, air gap may be too big.
Engages all the time, dirty/poor connections to the clutch.

I would hate to see you do a lot of work to only find it was a poor connection that diminished AC clutch operation.
Charlie-III is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2018, 01:20 AM   #16
Fuzzymuzzle
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 483550
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Southern USA
Vehicle:
2003 wrx
red

Default

it has sporadic engage of the clutch. It will run fine for a couple minutes then the clutch will start to sputter and disengage. I have remedied it somewhat by pushing pieces of wire between the flex plate and the clutch but the force spins whatever I put in there out and it almost immediately disengages. When I get a spare second tomorrow maybe I am going to fab up something that will fit in there and stay. There are no shims to remove to decrease the air gap so I am just going to try pushing it forward some
Fuzzymuzzle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2018, 04:15 PM   #17
Fuzzymuzzle
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 483550
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Southern USA
Vehicle:
2003 wrx
red

Default

Welp game over I guess. I have tried several means of pushing the clutch a bit forward, all with varying degrees of success, but none seemed 2b a permanent fix. I am definitely bummed, tuesday I will take it to an ac repair shop to see if they think they can repair it somehow that I couldn't and if not I guess buy a new compressor which I will attempt to put in myself. It will be my first and I am sure a whole separate and new adventure on its own. If only I had my own cars to take care of I would just unhook the damn thing and throw it in a river but some people need AC i guess.

Does anyone know how I would go about changing/testing the relay? I may try that before I completely give in

Last edited by Fuzzymuzzle; 05-27-2018 at 04:18 PM. Reason: not giving up yet
Fuzzymuzzle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2018, 10:31 PM   #18
VinceS2
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 353338
Join Date: Apr 2013
Chapter/Region: International
Location: Newcastle Australia
Vehicle:
2005 EVO 8 WRX + STi
gold

Default

Since I have read this, my two bob is you have a weak solenoid going on. Or a bad connection could do it, but less likely given you have disturbed it many times. When the solenoid is activated it heats up, semi-shorts itself and loses strength. Probably.

What I would do is measure coil resistance and see what it is; go find out what it should be (I haven't bothered) and there is potential answer 1). Then run the car for a bit with the A/C on (don't care if it is picked up or not, the coil is activated) and stop the car and quickly recheck resistance. Any noticeable change and you have your answer right there. These are the simplest checks.

To check the relay, and also the low gas tripping mentioned by Charlie the third, I would hook up a test lamp so it is powered at the same time as the solenoid. eg shove a fine copper wire into the connector as you plug it in (and give the bayonet a bit of a squeeze after as it will get a bit looser). Then just watch the bulb. If it is on steady while your wire repair is flipping out you know it is solenoid / clearance and go there. But if it starts flickering about when your wirey conftrapubortion is letting go you know who to blame, and it is not your grumpy old McGuyver skills! Or it could be....

Hope this helps, and good luck keeping as many pennies your side of the leather divide. Your stubbornness in trying to do so is appreciated by all!!!
VinceS2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2018, 03:08 AM   #19
Fuzzymuzzle
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 483550
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Southern USA
Vehicle:
2003 wrx
red

Default

it does heat up quite a bit. It is not low on refrigerant. I wish I understood what you said about checking that relay. I feel like it is either that or the magnet just doesn't have enough juice to keep the clutch engaged. Maybe if someone could put it in laymans terms for me. Idk i am pretty close to throwing in the towel and buying another one.

Just to try and clarify it will run fine and blow cold for about 5 minutes. Then the clutch starts sputtering and it seems the engine is really struggling to turn it, like maybe some lube or something might help if I knew where to lube it at. Then it stops turning for a minute. Then the ac will try to re-engage the clutch and the process repeats.
Fuzzymuzzle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2018, 03:21 AM   #20
VinceS2
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 353338
Join Date: Apr 2013
Chapter/Region: International
Location: Newcastle Australia
Vehicle:
2005 EVO 8 WRX + STi
gold

Smile Done the basics?

Happy to help, but you need to do the work. So I did bother to look now; do what this guy says:

So, 3.5 to 5 ohms, you got that?

Power up the solenoid yourself directly, does it go in and out? Leave the thing powered up for a while, does it heat up then drop out or just stay hooked up? You don't need the engine running to do this basic diagnostic work. By the time you have done that you will know if it is time to get the moolah out.

I was earlier just adding the extra bit of diagnosis using a test lamp during live operation as that gets you the next level of possible cause if you pass the first steps. But do the first steps!

PS: That you are getting noticeable power loss suggests an internal compressor failure. But you have a solenoid symptom, see if that is all first, THEN dig in the green bag...
VinceS2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:15 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2024 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2019, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission
Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.