EJ25 swap into a 94 Impreza

[EcksJay]

Out of curiosity, why did you swap PS stuff? If you take the braket off the 1.8 and put it on the 2.5, you can re-use the 1.8 set-up. That way you don't need to get any lines modified.
When you swap over TB's, don't forget to make a spacer plate that blocks off that extra vacuum hole.
Glad to hear that it's working out for you! I figured that taking it out through the hood would be an easier option. And, FWIW, all those that are contemplating this swap in the future, do yourself a favor. When it comes time, drive out the pins holding the front CV's to the tranny. That way, you can slide the engine/tranny back and forth, take the CV's out, and have easy access to all the bolts holding the engine on.

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[83Rabbit]

Originally Posted by EcksJay

Out of curiosity, why did you swap PS stuff? If you take the braket off the 1.8 and put it on the 2.5, you can re-use the 1.8 set-up. That way you don't need to get any lines modified.

Actually, thats what I did, the manifold on the 2.5 where the 2 bolt bracket for the PS lines bolt to is moved over about 2 inches toward the pass side. So with the PS line mount bolted to the manifold the lines sit short of where the PS pump rests. Its not all that hard, like i said it can be bent with your hands and the other one fixed with a $2 hydrolic hose thats longer.

When you swap over TB's, don't forget to make a spacer plate that blocks off that extra vacuum hole.
Glad to hear that it's working out for you! I figured that taking it out through the hood would be an easier option. And, FWIW, all those that are contemplating this swap in the future, do yourself a favor. When it comes time, drive out the pins holding the front CV's to the tranny. That way, you can slide the engine/tranny back and forth, take the CV's out, and have easy access to all the bolts holding the engine on.

yea with that drivers side lower stud nut, youd need a VERY low profile 1/2 fine tooth drive thats fairly long to access it, or a smaller 3/8'' 14mm swivle socket to reach it, either way it was a PITA and the starter had to be removed to get clearance. I should have just pulled the axle since its got a torn boot and is going to be replaced this weekend anyways when I get back up there to work on it.


*EDIT* 10/17/05 - After looking at the setup with the PS lines. They in fact dont need to be bent or extended at all. I simply removed the bracket for the 2 PS lines and plug wire holder. Seperated the plug wire holder and put it on the wires. Then I just mounted the lines flush to the intake manifold instead of keeping it 2-3 inches do the side of it. This gave me PERFECT reach and brought it back to spec distances as in the 1.8.

So the myth about the lines needing to be modified can be expelled, you just get around it by not using the stock bracket and mounting them directly to the side of the intake manifold with the stock mounting points for the bracket and the stock line mounts that came on the lines to keep them together. Ill take pics when Im up this weekend. But once I removed the stock bracket it gave me the extra clearance I needed and the lines mated right up to the PS pump.

[83Rabbit]

Originally Posted by moss

And I don't know if this makes a difference, but remember its a MY99 engine, not a MY00.

I spoke with the first owner of the car who said:

Originally Posted by Jude DeMeis

That motor is actually from a 2000RS, has about 65K miles on it. It definately has new head gaskets and I think I also changed the timing belt. The only thing you should know is that the intake manifold was from a 1999RS so in order to make the 2000 injectors fit, the manifold was drilled out and the fuel rails modified. Just make sure the fuel injectors are in pointed straight because there are no centering stops for the 2000 injectors on the 1999 rail. That motor runs good.

I checked and the injectors do in fact spin and the 99 manifold was drilled/modified to work with it. Probably the reason the engine is so clean since it was previously swapped and worked on. The thing is near spotless.

[83Rabbit]

So here I am with the motor bolted up, accessories installed (1.8 alt installed since the plugs between the 1.8 and 2.5 are different), the coolant lines hooked up, fuel lines hooked up... what needs to be done with the sensors?

I see the coolant temp sensor on the back pass side, that needs to be swapped with the 1.8 right?
The crank angle sensor is the 6 tooth so Im ok on that.
The TB needs to be swapped with the associated lines/tps, i know that
What other sensors/vacum things need to be swapped?

[EcksJay]

Assuming that you re-wired the injector harness, aside from the coolant temp sensor, everything seems a-o.k.
As far as vacuum is concerned....Hopefully you made a note of where everything was on the 1.8
You will be re-using the 1.8 air intake. That being said, you will need longer breather hoses. (the ones that come out of the valve covers)
As far as the rest goes, I seem to remember plugging only 2 vacuum ports.
Also, IIRC, one of the hoses that goes to the charcoal canister is in a different location on the 2.5....
post pics with your questions, and i might be able to give you a hand if your stuck.

[83Rabbit]

so I pull the 1.8 harness from under the intake manifold, swap the CTS and the injector plugs (Which look like theyll plug right up without splicing to the 2.5 injectors) and everything electrical will plug right in?

The oil pressure switch is the same on the 1.8 and 2.5 right? I know its the same connectors but I can just plug up the 2.5 right?

The breather hoses get routed back into the intake tube post MAF and pre TB right? I didnt make a note of where the vacum connections went although there doesnt seem to be many in all honesty. The brake booster is hooked up so that vacum connections down. Its gonna bea ll the little stuff now.

What do I do with the 2 electrically controlled vacum thingies under the 1.8 manifold with the vacum connections running to them and the wiring harness that plugs into them? The 2.5 motor has nothing like that, its alot cleaner.

[subbyspeed]

oil pressure switch is the same..

the breather hoses will plug into the 1.8 intake tube pre tb..

The other couple plugs that are left over. I ended up just plugging in those vsv's, and securing them underneath the manifold. But they aren't actually doing anything, no lines routed to them.. Just plugged into the harness to trick the computer.

[83Rabbit]

what exactly are they tricking the computer into doing? what is it they sense and control that Im not using for my new 2.5 motor? lol

[subbyspeed]

those vsv's are for the evaporative emmisions system crap. being an obd-I car, it shouldn't throw a code for it. I've gotten no codes so far, its basically telling the computer that yes, this device is working when it wants it too. Its not seeing an open circuit when it goes to turn it on. Is it a cheap way? sure. but i don't really care either. lol. It works, and has no affect on how the car runs.

[83Rabbit]

ok great, and do I leave the ports open to atmospheric pressure or cap off the ports with rubber vac caps? Is there a way to remount them away from the engine to get things a bit more clean, like perhaps under a resevior or battery or something? maybe ill pull that portion of the harness enough to get it to mount under the dash or in the rain tray.

[subbyspeed]

well, since they mount on the engine on the 1.8l, you pretty much stuck with putting it somewhere on the new engine.. i just stuffed mine underneath the intake manifold, and you really can't see them.. And i just left those ports open on those vsv's.

[EcksJay]

Yeah, what he said^^^

[83Rabbit]

The 2.5RS coil. What do I do with that? I splice the coil wires to the 1.8 coil harness. Which wires get spliced to which? IIRC the 2.5 has one extra wire? I think i read that somewhere. Can I get a step by step on splicing the coil wires together?
Thanks!



*Edit* Heres the solution to the ignitor jumping.

[EcksJay]

Sorry, can't help you there.
I wussed out and bought a set of custom wires. But, I think that as soon as someone offers up a step by step, I'm going to ditch the 1.8 coil.

[subbyspeed]

Originally Posted by 83Rabbit

The 2.5RS coil. What do I do with that? I splice the coil wires to the 1.8 coil harness. Which wires get spliced to which? IIRC the 2.5 has one extra wire? I think i read that somewhere. Can I get a step by step on splicing the coil wires together?
Thanks!

I still need to find my wiring diagrams for that.. But i did use the RS coil. Its rather easy. Stay tuned

[subbyspeed]

Here we go.. i made a thread for it.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...0#post11277350

[83Rabbit]

Thanks!

Now, annoyingly enough I need the nuts that bolt the DP to the head for the exhaust. I need one stud also. Suby quoted my 9 bucks for the stud and 3 bucks per nut for the DP nuts. BUNK DAT! Can I just go buy some matching thread nuts and a stud from a place selling grade A nuts? Ive done this stuff before and never encountered a problem. And since its only the DP I figure if it doesnt work I can then buy the correct hardware, its not gonna kill me to try it eh?

[EcksJay]

Just run down to the hardware store. Find out what size thread it is (diameter and pitch), and get what you need.
On the exhaust, do yourself a favor, and use some high temp never seize. It's a safe bet that you'll be into that area again for performance purposes, and it makes it a lot easier.
As far as hardware goes, you will probably have a hard time findind a stud. You could either find a "set screw" with the appropriate thread length, or a bolt with the same length of threads. I think it would be better to use a stud and nut combo then the regular bolt.
You could also put on a little drop of threadlocker, just to make sure that the stud never comes out again. (make sure that the stud is the correct length before threadlocker)
HTH

[83Rabbit]

Thats what I was planning on doing, thanks for re-enforcing my plans

Called napa and they have the exhaust manifold gaskets in stock for 2 bucks each. yay! im done getting all my parts needed for this weekend after this. Just need to scoop up a hose clamp kit while Im there and thats it. The stock suby hose clamps blow lol. I prefer the screw head/8mm or whatever they are over the screw only ones that tend to deteriorate over time then have to be cut off

[subbyspeed]

yeah, some of subaru's clamp designs are lame as hell.. When i did the 2.5 swap, i had to just rip apart practically everyone of them.. Heater hoses, radiator hoses, etc.. All suck.

Good luck with the swappage!

[83Rabbit]

alright both harnesses are out with sensors and im modding them as we speak. A quick few questions.

The 3 fuel inlets under the intake manifold in the drivers side. theyre arranged in a triangle pattern from rubber to steel lines.

.O
OO

which hose goes where? 1 is for the charcoal canister I believe, 1 is fuel delivery, 1 is return? In any case where do the 3 hoses go?

Thanks! Im sure Ill be back in a few with plenty more questions.

PS Is there ANY way to use the 2.5 TB? Im quite dissapointed with how puny the 1.8 TB is, it looks like itll be a HUGE bottleneck with regard to the intake.

[subbyspeed]

If your using the 1.8 ecu to run it.. i don't know of a way to run the 2.5 throttle body.. The sensors are way different.

Mine is still pretty strong even with the 1.8 tb on it. Just have to make a gasket for it, which takes all of 10 minutes.

[83Rabbit]

yea thats what im comming to realize, soooo what about this fuel line setup I asked about up top? ANy ideas?

[83Rabbit]

Does the ground wire comming from the battery going towards the starter area just bolt to one of the starter bolts? Where does it go? Ive got a spare ground wire sittin around

[subbyspeed]

you could use one of the starter bolts for a ground, or the spot on the bracket that is bolted on with the starter bolts.