EJ25 swap into a 94 Impreza - Page 4

83Rabbit · 10-17-2005, 12:58 PM

cool, Ill do that with the ground. Now problem 2, still unsure and unanswered. Fuel lines.
Connect the dots

This is a mistake, the 1.8 lines are in a traiangular pattern, the 2.5 lines are lineir like pictured below.

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slidewaysuby · 10-18-2005, 05:11 AM

try this

pm me if you need more help

83Rabbit · 10-18-2005, 09:57 AM

wait.... is the fuel filter on the drivers side? I thought that was the charcoal canister.... or is the charcoal canister on the pass side near the radiator?

Wheres the fuel filter so I can use that as a refference. Thanks for the diagram Im sure when I sit infront of the car Ill be able to find out what it is your talking about!

subbyspeed · 10-18-2005, 10:30 AM

the fuel filter is on the drivers side by the shock tower.

83Rabbit · 10-18-2005, 11:48 AM

ok and how do I tell which of your steel lines are which? They are arranged in a triangular pattern on the car...

EcksJay · 10-18-2005, 01:43 PM

I went to look at my car...I have the same linear arrangement.^^^
My best suggestion would be to find the one line that goes to the fuel rail, and tag it. Next, find the one that sort of goes in the direction of the charcoal canister, and tag that. process of elimination.......

83Rabbit · 10-18-2005, 03:49 PM

word, ill get the info when im back up in nova.

Then its time to hook up the vacum system.... OH FUN! lol

83Rabbit · 10-23-2005, 11:11 PM

NO CLUTCH!
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...0#post11474980
Solved

83Rabbit · 10-23-2005, 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slidewaysuby

try this

pm me if you need more help

This is right, and i think its fixed....

Now, I have more issues.

Theres a vac/fuel steel line comming out facing the radiator on the pass side directly to the side of the PS pump... and another on the opposite side facing up, both on the front of the motor/manifold area. WHERE DO THESE GO?! WHAT HOOKS UP TO THEM?!

Im in the last leg of things here, I need to get these little kinks worked out!

rabbitnutz · 10-27-2005, 08:40 PM

i'm so glad nasioc is back up so i can read page two of this thread. i was stuck on page one ever since it went down !

subbyspeed · 10-27-2005, 10:48 PM

are you using the 1.8 intake manifold or the 2.5 manifold? It sounds like the 1.8, but i want to make sure..

83Rabbit · 11-01-2005, 04:56 PM

Plugging the unused 94L airbox EGR fitting.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...3#post11539093

83Rabbit · 11-01-2005, 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by subbyspeed

are you using the 1.8 intake manifold or the 2.5 manifold? It sounds like the 1.8, but i want to make sure..

Im using the 2.5 manifold. I was under the impression the 1.8 will not bolt up... Which is the reason every person who does this swap says an adapter plate is required to have the 1.8TB mate to the 2.5 manifold. Why would manifold difference matter anyways?

subbyspeed · 11-01-2005, 06:41 PM

The 2.5 throttle body has a rather large port in the manifold for the IAC valve. The 1.8 throttle body doesn't need that.. So in order to make that 1.8 tb work, i just purchased a 2.5rs tb gasket, or you can use the old one, and a sheet of gasket material. Then just trace the 2.5 gasket onto the sheet, leaving out the large port at the top, and viola! You have a custom gasket that works. No need for 3 different gaskets like i've read about people doing..

83Rabbit · 11-01-2005, 08:45 PM

"i just purchased a 2.5rs tb gasket"

On my manifold/tb combo with the 2.5 gasket there was still 1-2mm of open IAC port on the manifold. I needed the plate with the 2.5 gasket on the manifold side and the 1.8 gasket on the TB side for it to completely seal against the manifold.

SubaruImpreza_power · 11-01-2005, 09:56 PM

Subscribe, I have a 95L waiting for an engine in my price range.

sscguy · 11-19-2007, 04:20 PM

I just did this same swap over the weekend, and this thread was a huge help. Couple notes:

-TB gasket: I bought a roll of gasket material, cut it out to match the external dimensions of the 2.5 IM with the hole for the 1.8 TB. RTV'd both sides, works great.

-Wiring: pretty much all of it was covered here, but for those who haven't done it, it's very straightforward if you have any idea about wiring. The injector plugs could be de-pinned (no splicing necessary), but the other few (coil, temp sensor, etc.) did require splicing, as the female ends weren't the same between harnesses.

-Use the original 1.8 PS pump, alternator, and AC compressor, with all original brackets. The ONLY different thing I did was for the AC compressor, the bottom "sliding' bracket piece. The 2.5 has a slight curve in one section, and makes tightening that innermost lower bolt easier/possible. Not a big deal, and not worth doing unless you have the thing laying around.

-I have a CEL for the EGR valve. I didn't do a single thing to make it work, so I wasn't surprised. Just FYI. My charcoal canister is also not hooked to anything. (Also just for reference, to check a CEL on an OBDI car, there are two small black disconnected plugs under the dash on the driver's side, kind of between the steering column and center dash area; plug them in with the car off, then turn the key to ON (not running), and the codes will flash

)

-Not that this is ideal, but the 1.8 exhaust manifolds will bolt right up to the 2.5 block, just for reference.

My only issue now is a weird loud squealing noise, which we think might be related to something with the plate that bolts to the torque converter. Prior to the swap I had no such noises, so I'm a little bit at a loss. EDIT: After a test drive, seems to be RPM related. Is there anything weird with a difference in TC/flywheels between the '00 and '93 years? I'm using everything from my '93, and am wondering if the flex plate needs to be from an '00 or something.

RE-EDIT: Swap is pretty quick

sscguy · 12-03-2007, 03:53 PM

Update: I've been driving the car around for awhile, and am having only two problems. The first has to do with the car starting, where it'll start, then rpms drop and it dies. This'll happen 3-4 times, then it'll start ok. It seems to do it more when warmed up rather than cold, and was doing it now and then before the swap. I think it might be at least partially related to an improperly routed ground (I have a big one going to the starter, and don't remember taking it off there, but couldn't find another place for it).

The second problem is with fuel mileage. On average, I'm getting 19mpg, which blows. With the old engine even in bad shape, I got 28mpg regularly. I am running this swap off the original EJ18 ECU, and I'm thinking maybe it's lean or rich for whatever reason, or maybe the injectors are just dumping more fuel in than should be normal. While an SAFC (which I have laying around) would solve the problem for sure, I'd rather go the easier route of plugging in a '98 RS ECU if that would work. Any thoughts?

The squealing noise wound up being the little splash guard between the bellhousing and block, which had gotten bent upwards and was rubbing on the flywheel.

10-17-2005, 12:58 PM	#76
83Rabbit Scooby Specialist Member#: 5050 Join Date: Mar 2001 Chapter/Region: MAIC	cool, Ill do that with the ground. Now problem 2, still unsure and unanswered. Fuel lines. Connect the dots This is a mistake, the 1.8 lines are in a traiangular pattern, the 2.5 lines are lineir like pictured below. * Registered users of the site do not see these ads. Last edited by 83Rabbit; 11-01-2005 at 05:00 PM.

11-19-2007, 04:20 PM	#92
sscguy Scooby Newbie Member#: 25842 Join Date: Oct 2002 Chapter/Region: MAIC Location: Ellicott City, MD Vehicle: 1993 Impreza Purple	I just did this same swap over the weekend, and this thread was a huge help. Couple notes: -TB gasket: I bought a roll of gasket material, cut it out to match the external dimensions of the 2.5 IM with the hole for the 1.8 TB. RTV'd both sides, works great. -Wiring: pretty much all of it was covered here, but for those who haven't done it, it's very straightforward if you have any idea about wiring. The injector plugs could be de-pinned (no splicing necessary), but the other few (coil, temp sensor, etc.) did require splicing, as the female ends weren't the same between harnesses. -Use the original 1.8 PS pump, alternator, and AC compressor, with all original brackets. The ONLY different thing I did was for the AC compressor, the bottom "sliding' bracket piece. The 2.5 has a slight curve in one section, and makes tightening that innermost lower bolt easier/possible. Not a big deal, and not worth doing unless you have the thing laying around. -I have a CEL for the EGR valve. I didn't do a single thing to make it work, so I wasn't surprised. Just FYI. My charcoal canister is also not hooked to anything. (Also just for reference, to check a CEL on an OBDI car, there are two small black disconnected plugs under the dash on the driver's side, kind of between the steering column and center dash area; plug them in with the car off, then turn the key to ON (not running), and the codes will flash ) -Not that this is ideal, but the 1.8 exhaust manifolds will bolt right up to the 2.5 block, just for reference. My only issue now is a weird loud squealing noise, which we think might be related to something with the plate that bolts to the torque converter. Prior to the swap I had no such noises, so I'm a little bit at a loss. EDIT: After a test drive, seems to be RPM related. Is there anything weird with a difference in TC/flywheels between the '00 and '93 years? I'm using everything from my '93, and am wondering if the flex plate needs to be from an '00 or something. RE-EDIT: Swap is pretty quick Last edited by sscguy; 11-19-2007 at 04:35 PM.

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10-18-2005, 05:11 AM	#77
slidewaysuby Scooby Newbie Member#: 69513 Join Date: Aug 2004 Chapter/Region: NWIC Location: PDX Vehicle: 98 OBS EJ207 4.444 black/grey	try this pm me if you need more help

10-18-2005, 09:57 AM	#78
83Rabbit Scooby Specialist Member#: 5050 Join Date: Mar 2001 Chapter/Region: MAIC	wait.... is the fuel filter on the drivers side? I thought that was the charcoal canister.... or is the charcoal canister on the pass side near the radiator? Wheres the fuel filter so I can use that as a refference. Thanks for the diagram Im sure when I sit infront of the car Ill be able to find out what it is your talking about!

10-18-2005, 10:30 AM	#79
subbyspeed Scooby Specialist Member#: 16274 Join Date: Mar 2002 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Columbus,OH Vehicle: 2001 GM6 2.0L vf30 e30 black/rust	the fuel filter is on the drivers side by the shock tower.

10-18-2005, 11:48 AM	#80
83Rabbit Scooby Specialist Member#: 5050 Join Date: Mar 2001 Chapter/Region: MAIC	ok and how do I tell which of your steel lines are which? They are arranged in a triangular pattern on the car...

10-18-2005, 01:43 PM	#81
EcksJay Scooby Specialist Member#: 77677 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Maine Vehicle: 1997 OBS '07 KLR 650	I went to look at my car...I have the same linear arrangement.^^^ My best suggestion would be to find the one line that goes to the fuel rail, and tag it. Next, find the one that sort of goes in the direction of the charcoal canister, and tag that. process of elimination.......

10-18-2005, 03:49 PM	#82
83Rabbit Scooby Specialist Member#: 5050 Join Date: Mar 2001 Chapter/Region: MAIC	word, ill get the info when im back up in nova. Then its time to hook up the vacum system.... OH FUN! lol

10-23-2005, 11:11 PM	#83
83Rabbit Scooby Specialist Member#: 5050 Join Date: Mar 2001 Chapter/Region: MAIC	NO CLUTCH! http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...0#post11474980 Solved

10-27-2005, 08:40 PM	#85
rabbitnutz Scooby Guru Member#: 51940 Join Date: Jan 2004 Chapter/Region: NESIC Location: Brighton, Ma Vehicle: 2001 White	i'm so glad nasioc is back up so i can read page two of this thread. i was stuck on page one ever since it went down !

10-27-2005, 10:48 PM	#86
subbyspeed Scooby Specialist Member#: 16274 Join Date: Mar 2002 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Columbus,OH Vehicle: 2001 GM6 2.0L vf30 e30 black/rust	are you using the 1.8 intake manifold or the 2.5 manifold? It sounds like the 1.8, but i want to make sure..

11-01-2005, 04:56 PM	#87
83Rabbit Scooby Specialist Member#: 5050 Join Date: Mar 2001 Chapter/Region: MAIC	Plugging the unused 94L airbox EGR fitting. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...3#post11539093

11-01-2005, 06:41 PM	#89
subbyspeed Scooby Specialist Member#: 16274 Join Date: Mar 2002 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Columbus,OH Vehicle: 2001 GM6 2.0L vf30 e30 black/rust	The 2.5 throttle body has a rather large port in the manifold for the IAC valve. The 1.8 throttle body doesn't need that.. So in order to make that 1.8 tb work, i just purchased a 2.5rs tb gasket, or you can use the old one, and a sheet of gasket material. Then just trace the 2.5 gasket onto the sheet, leaving out the large port at the top, and viola! You have a custom gasket that works. No need for 3 different gaskets like i've read about people doing..

11-01-2005, 08:45 PM	#90
83Rabbit Scooby Specialist Member#: 5050 Join Date: Mar 2001 Chapter/Region: MAIC	"i just purchased a 2.5rs tb gasket" On my manifold/tb combo with the 2.5 gasket there was still 1-2mm of open IAC port on the manifold. I needed the plate with the 2.5 gasket on the manifold side and the 1.8 gasket on the TB side for it to completely seal against the manifold.

11-01-2005, 09:56 PM	#91
SubaruImpreza_power Scooby Guru Member#: 13910 Join Date: Jan 2002 Chapter/Region: NESIC Location: Greenwich, CT Vehicle: 2005 Legacy GT blue	Subscribe, I have a 95L waiting for an engine in my price range.

12-03-2007, 03:53 PM	#93
sscguy Scooby Newbie Member#: 25842 Join Date: Oct 2002 Chapter/Region: MAIC Location: Ellicott City, MD Vehicle: 1993 Impreza Purple	Update: I've been driving the car around for awhile, and am having only two problems. The first has to do with the car starting, where it'll start, then rpms drop and it dies. This'll happen 3-4 times, then it'll start ok. It seems to do it more when warmed up rather than cold, and was doing it now and then before the swap. I think it might be at least partially related to an improperly routed ground (I have a big one going to the starter, and don't remember taking it off there, but couldn't find another place for it). The second problem is with fuel mileage. On average, I'm getting 19mpg, which blows. With the old engine even in bad shape, I got 28mpg regularly. I am running this swap off the original EJ18 ECU, and I'm thinking maybe it's lean or rich for whatever reason, or maybe the injectors are just dumping more fuel in than should be normal. While an SAFC (which I have laying around) would solve the problem for sure, I'd rather go the easier route of plugging in a '98 RS ECU if that would work. Any thoughts? The squealing noise wound up being the little splash guard between the bellhousing and block, which had gotten bent upwards and was rubbing on the flywheel.