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Old 01-17-2018, 02:33 PM   #76
D-Rodman
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I see, I guess when you have a graph like shown above the better oiling and breathing makes sense. I see a terribly laggy setup, I’d be miserable on my street car with that. I like my td04 for dd, don’t need a top end setup for that. I also have a 2.0L STi motor with an 18g and supporting mods. The STi with the 18G kicks hard at 3900 rpm and continues pulling hard to redline. I wish the spooling started at 3400rpm and kept pulling as it does to redline. I paid $1400 for a low mile jdm ej205 that was basically a drop in motor. I wired avcs and run it on a jdm ecu. I can swap ecu back and fort between usdm and jdm, simple. How cheap do you buy your type motors for ?
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Old 01-17-2018, 03:28 PM   #77
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It is quite laggy indeed. I was told that if I get dual AVCS to function, it would move my curves to the left. I'm not sure where it would end up but supposedly it is much better. The computers that run dual AVCS are 32 bit though, and mine is 16. So, I could do a simple setup like yours but would be limited to intake avcs only.


Once it spools though, it's a rocket. These things can be had for 700+ or 1400 with the tranny. There was a considerable amount of work to get my build going.. but.. I'm happy with it. There are people on other forums who praise it.. I also heard from my shop this is one of the best flowing heads you can get.

Basically I just had to adjust my driving habits to be "on the pipe"
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Old 01-17-2018, 03:40 PM   #78
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I would at least suggest to park the cams at the non-avcs settings using some sprockets.

It would move the curve left and more like a normal EJ205. Would probably help the spool of the turbo as well.

It is semi-involved. You would need at least intake sprockets, plugs for the cams (all four), cam seals and may be able to cheat by skipping teeth on the dAVCS sprockets. It's pretty well covered in proven power bragging. I even included virtual dyno screenshots to show where the curve would move to.

Ultimately, your call.
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Old 01-17-2018, 05:19 PM   #79
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Just make sure you install plugs that are not permanent if you ever want to get avcs functional. I bet you could spool 1,000 rpm sooner with the suggested setup.

Last edited by D-Rodman; 01-17-2018 at 07:57 PM.
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Old 01-18-2018, 10:37 PM   #80
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Yes I had everything apart and considered it.. but.. realized my efforts were better off being spent on actually getting davcs functional.. so.. We;ll see
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Old 08-02-2018, 07:34 PM   #81
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What about sensors and solenoids for the engine? Is there any other usdm cars that will interchange the different sensors and solenoids?
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Old 10-17-2018, 12:24 PM   #82
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So has anyone verified the rumors about these have forged crown/cast pistons? I can't find anything other than forum comments and no pics, and the below web page.

http://australiancar.reviews/Subaru_...0Y_Engines.php
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Old 10-31-2018, 09:49 PM   #83
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Will these motors survive on 91?

I purchased a project and it has the following

USDM ecu
EJ20Y TGY deletes
3" downpipe and w resnator exhaust
VF39
STI cams with legacy GT gears
AVCS plugged
USDM intake and just a wix standard filter
1 step colder plugs
catch can.
255 pump and yellow side feeds

The car has about 2000 miles on it before I purchased it. I took it to the tuner and it made decent power but it was detonating like crazy according to him. At least that is what the ECU and knock sensor was telling him. He first inquired as to what octane I was running and I got it from Superamerica and that's a certified top tier gas. I checked out the knock sensor and it was about 600ohms and I hit the manifold with a hammer and the resistance changed so I think its working. The voltage from the car into the sensor was 4.7 volts. I have a feeling its something simple but I'm replacing the knock sensor and heading back to the tuner next tuesday. The AFR was steady at 12.0 and the car wasn't losing power it was just detonating according to the knock sensor.

Can't decide on the hard to get 93 or 91 gas tank tune though but I'm having trouble on where to start trying to figure out why it is knocking
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Old 10-31-2018, 09:57 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stgdz View Post
Will these motors survive on 91?

I purchased a project and it has the following

USDM ecu
EJ20Y TGY deletes
3" downpipe and w resnator exhaust
VF39
STI cams with legacy GT gears
AVCS plugged
USDM intake and just a wix standard filter
1 step colder plugs
catch can.
255 pump and yellow side feeds

The car has about 2000 miles on it before I purchased it. I took it to the tuner and it made decent power but it was detonating like crazy according to him. At least that is what the ECU and knock sensor was telling him. He first inquired as to what octane I was running and I got it from Superamerica and that's a certified top tier gas. I checked out the knock sensor and it was about 600ohms and I hit the manifold with a hammer and the resistance changed so I think its working. The voltage from the car into the sensor was 4.7 volts. I have a feeling its something simple but I'm replacing the knock sensor and heading back to the tuner next tuesday. The AFR was steady at 12.0 and the car wasn't losing power it was just detonating according to the knock sensor.

Can't decide on the hard to get 93 or 91 gas tank tune though but I'm having trouble on where to start trying to figure out why it is knocking
sure if you get it tuned for 91
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Old 10-31-2018, 11:35 PM   #85
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sure if you get it tuned for 91
thats what I'm trying to figure out, the tuner said they tune for these engines but this one is detonating for some reason and from what I have measured with the knock sensor it is good and the voltage to it is good, it didn't throw a CEL for knocking either or any other CEL's.

I got a new genuine subaru knock sensor coming on monday.


I checked for boost leaks and didn't find any.
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Old 10-31-2018, 11:37 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stgdz View Post
thats what I'm trying to figure out, the tuner said they tune for these engines but this one is detonating for some reason and from what I have measured with the knock sensor it is good and the voltage to it is good, it didn't throw a CEL for knocking either or any other CEL's.

I got a new genuine subaru knock sensor coming on monday.


I checked for boost leaks and didn't find any.
I know they have higher compression so I'm sure that is part of the issue. so if you want to try it, get some 100 octane, or e85 and see if it keeps knocking. if it doesnt, then you know what your problem is
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Old 11-01-2018, 12:01 AM   #87
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Originally Posted by subaru_gc8 View Post
I know they have higher compression so I'm sure that is part of the issue. so if you want to try it, get some 100 octane, or e85 and see if it keeps knocking. if it doesnt, then you know what your problem is
So say it isn't the octane or the knock sensor. Where should I start looking?
Ignition and fuel showed fine according to the tuner.
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Old 11-01-2018, 12:07 AM   #88
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why wouldnt be one of those 2 things? I dont quite understand so you were getting knock and your tuner is saying the fuel and ignition were okay? I think you need him to validate his statement. if you are getting detonation, somethings not right, so do you have a AFR gauge in the car? I would try the octane to rule it out. either that or get some torco and put half the can in the gas tank and see what happens
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Old 11-01-2018, 07:27 AM   #89
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why wouldnt be one of those 2 things? I dont quite understand so you were getting knock and your tuner is saying the fuel and ignition were okay? I think you need him to validate his statement. if you are getting detonation, somethings not right, so do you have a AFR gauge in the car? I would try the octane to rule it out. either that or get some torco and put half the can in the gas tank and see what happens
I have a wide band on the ehaust about 2ft from the turbo. AFR reads about 12-13 when on the gas. The tuner dialed in the AFR first and I watched the graph across from 3500-7200 and it was a steady 12. Tuner said that fuel rate was ok and that it wasn't pulling power.


tuner was questioning if it was bad gas, lower octane, or a bad knock sensor. I inspected the knock sensor and although it measured out ok i ordered a new knock sensor. I will switch to 93 next tuesday for the tune but if it's not the gas where do I start to look?

Last edited by stgdz; 11-01-2018 at 08:56 AM.
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Old 11-01-2018, 10:30 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stgdz View Post
I have a wide band on the ehaust about 2ft from the turbo. AFR reads about 12-13 when on the gas. The tuner dialed in the AFR first and I watched the graph across from 3500-7200 and it was a steady 12. Tuner said that fuel rate was ok and that it wasn't pulling power.





tuner was questioning if it was bad gas, lower octane, or a bad knock sensor. I inspected the knock sensor and although it measured out ok i ordered a new knock sensor. I will switch to 93 next tuesday for the tune but if it's not the gas where do I start to look?


There's more to a tune then just simply setting the AFR and getting on the throttle. What else was going on with the tune? Having 9.5:1 CR changes how you use AFR, boost and hole bunch of other variables as well.

You say it was't pulling "power". Do you mean it wasn't pulling timing? You state USDM ecu and avcs plugged. Do you mean the avcs holes in the cams were plugged? Why did the tuner choose 12.0 AFR? Could also be the gas. If they just filled the tanks the day you filled up then you may have sh** in there causing issues.
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Old 11-01-2018, 11:52 AM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stgdz View Post
I have a wide band on the ehaust about 2ft from the turbo. AFR reads about 12-13 when on the gas. The tuner dialed in the AFR first and I watched the graph across from 3500-7200 and it was a steady 12. Tuner said that fuel rate was ok and that it wasn't pulling power.


tuner was questioning if it was bad gas, lower octane, or a bad knock sensor. I inspected the knock sensor and although it measured out ok i ordered a new knock sensor. I will switch to 93 next tuesday for the tune but if it's not the gas where do I start to look?
that is a little lean that could be your problem...do a data log and post it, also gotta remember that winter gas sucks too
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Old 11-01-2018, 02:19 PM   #92
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Personally, if I had one of these and 91 octane, I'd add a good water/meth system and a slightly larger turbo or turbine housing.
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Old 11-01-2018, 08:15 PM   #93
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So this was the e-mail I sent to the tuner

Quote:
Devin,
I was thinking about the tune results yesterday and I believe the
reason for the detonation is 91 octane gas. I removed the knock
sensor last night and tested it on an anvil and it was detecting
resistance changes when I hit the anvil with a hammer. The detector
checked out in specification when I ohm'd it.

I'll call later today and schedule a tune for Tuesday with 93 octane
but could a bad injector cause detonation due to improper fuel flow?
It seemed like you were getting good fuel flow and AFR's but it was
detonating as the octane may have been lower than 91 or just not high
enough for this engine.

Apparently the compression ration is 9.5:1 on this motor.

Hey ..,

Just because a knock sensor is picking up noise does not meant that it is sending the correct signal sensitivity. Did you compare 2 knock sensors side by side with the exact same noise to make sure they pick up and send the same signal? That is what trying a known good running knock sensor would do.

Devin was conservative on the timing for your set up and it should not have been detonating at that level on 91 octane or that power level. We can try 93 octane and see what it does if you want to go that route, we just charge for dyno time. But compared to other cars with the same set up your car should not have been detonating at that ignition timing with good 91 octane. Still could have been bad gas or non-oxy if it was detonation, but want to confirm the knock sensor working properly first typically.
So that's where it was left. He did about 6-8 pulls over about 2 hours and cut it at the end as it was detonating. I watched him dial in the AFR first, then move on to boost, and then timing. I think he was working on either boost or timing before he stopped.

Quote:
Originally Posted by snow_bound26 View Post
There's more to a tune then just simply setting the AFR and getting on the throttle. What else was going on with the tune? Having 9.5:1 CR changes how you use AFR, boost and hole bunch of other variables as well.

You say it was't pulling "power". Do you mean it wasn't pulling timing? You state USDM ecu and avcs plugged. Do you mean the avcs holes in the cams were plugged? Why did the tuner choose 12.0 AFR? Could also be the gas. If they just filled the tanks the day you filled up then you may have sh** in there causing issues.
Per the discussion I had with them face to face he said it wasn't pulling timing and the 12 value stuck out in my mind. Wish I would have taken pictures of it. It was tested on a dyno tech and I don't know what the output of those files is, is a xcel file or some proprietary file? I got an update from the previous owner of the car that he used 2005 legacy gt cam gears and he stated that its stock Ej25 intake and non-avcs exhaust.



Quote:
Originally Posted by subaru_gc8 View Post
that is a little lean that could be your problem...do a data log and post it, also gotta remember that winter gas sucks too
My accessport crapped the bed just now, so I will need to the get the v3 upgrade from cobb. I have an obd2 scanner and the torque app. The AFR readout is a digital AEM display and I don't think I can tap into it. I have been watching the timing graph on torque though during pulls. What should I do?
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Old 11-01-2018, 08:49 PM   #94
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If you acess post crapped out before you had a chance to uninstall youre SOL. Youre going to have to get a new ecu. Sorry
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Old 11-02-2018, 08:02 AM   #95
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Originally Posted by subaru_gc8 View Post
If you acess post crapped out before you had a chance to uninstall youre SOL. Youre going to have to get a new ecu. Sorry
I can still get at the access port with my computer and downloaded the maps but the screen died. Do i need to send the ecu back with it?
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Old 11-02-2018, 11:13 AM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stgdz View Post
I can still get at the access port with my computer and downloaded the maps but the screen died. Do i need to send the ecu back with it?


Contact Cobb about this but I've read that they can help when the screen dies. You may need to send the ecu in with the AP so they can uninstall it since it's just the screen that died. Pretty common on the V2 APs.

The higher the CR the more likely your are to det. I'd tend to lean toward your tuners thought that you need to check the signal output of the old sensor vs new. This is the only way to know if it is reading correctly. Aside from that 12.0 AFR WOT does seem a bit lean for the higher CR. What psi was the turbo set to? I'm running 9.0:1 CR VF34 @19.2 psi on 91 and my tuner set AFR to 11.0 WOT. I have done a lot to battle heat soak.

What have you done for heat retention? Are you still running the stock LGT TMIC? Have you coated/wrapped any exhaust parts? Turbo blanket/heat shield? If your IAT is high that could be contributing as well. I'm wondering if it's a combination of things right now, CR + X psi + 91 + higher IAT.
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Old 11-02-2018, 12:46 PM   #97
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I've got a gs heat shield with an sti top mount. Air intakes are roughly 70 degrees or about 20 above ambient.


The inside of the heat shield is gold taped a d the outside of the time is gold taped. I didn't put it over the fins.


I can't believe how cool both the time and the intercooler are.
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Old 11-03-2018, 06:09 PM   #98
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well the geniune subaru knock sensor is incompatible. My knock sensor has a brown connector and the one I hot has a grey, bot of them are a single wire though and the new one measure 600 on the bench so according to the bench readings they are the same. Realworld is up in the air.


damnit
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Old 11-04-2018, 12:11 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stgdz View Post
well the geniune subaru knock sensor is incompatible. My knock sensor has a brown connector and the one I hot has a grey, bot of them are a single wire though and the new one measure 600 on the bench so according to the bench readings they are the same. Realworld is up in the air.


damnit
Sometimes part numbers have running changes but are still compatible.
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Old 11-05-2018, 09:02 AM   #100
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Originally Posted by snow_bound26 View Post
Sometimes part numbers have running changes but are still compatible.
Yeah,it's not going to work. Pulle the time last night and the sensor has a brown male connector and chassis is female brown.

The one I got was female and grey.
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