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Old 08-07-2018, 04:28 PM   #1
IndecisiveS12
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Default 15+ WRX adding trunk button

I'm working on adding a trunk call button to my WRX that didn't have one from factory(not a limited/sport-tech).

I've sourced a factory switch (literally just a 2 wire switch thankfully) and I've tested the operation of the trunk latch and I only need to supply it with 12V to activate it.

Obviously I don't want to have the switch hot all the time so my idea is basically to have a relay that is energized when the doors are unlocked/alarm is unarmed.

I can go either way:
1) Unlocked signal w normally open relay
2) Lock signal w normally closed relay

My solution would require a constant signal though to either keep the relay open or closed and that's the biggest issue.

I know there's a plug under the dash for the optional shock sensor and there must be some sort of trigger to turn it on but I haven't gone looking and probing pins yet. if somebody knows if a constant signal exists for lock/unlock or armed/unarmed or has a better way of doing this I'd appreciate the help.
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Old 08-09-2018, 09:42 AM   #2
Mach V Dan
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Just FYI, the trunk switch on the cars that come with them (Limited, among others) is always live.

--Dan
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Old 08-09-2018, 09:42 AM   #3
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Duplicate post. Delete.
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Old 08-09-2018, 03:45 PM   #4
IndecisiveS12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mach V Dan View Post
Just FYI, the trunk switch on the cars that come with them (Limited, among others) is always live.

--Dan
Mach V
FastWRX.com


i thought it worked off the transmission from the fob. ie, if you weren't near to the rear receiver, it won't unlock.

Unfortunately cause I don't have the proximity system I have to make it a bit more crude. Not to mention me not having the technical ability to deal with a custom rf solution to match the oe system
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Old 08-09-2018, 06:00 PM   #5
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A trunk switch is something I would like to have also.

I will follow this thread.
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Old 08-10-2018, 12:03 AM   #6
Jewbaru
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndecisiveS12 View Post
i thought it worked off the transmission from the fob. ie, if you weren't near to the rear receiver, it won't unlock.

Unfortunately cause I don't have the proximity system I have to make it a bit more crude. Not to mention me not having the technical ability to deal with a custom rf solution to match the oe system
I think they mean the 12v line is always hot. Subaru used to use a lot of ground switching... I discovered this with my 2000 RS coming from a Ford. Would imagine they still do.

P.s, also could mean the switch is always active. Wouldn't surprise me to be honest.
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Old 08-10-2018, 12:52 PM   #7
IndecisiveS12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jewbaru View Post
I think they mean the 12v line is always hot. Subaru used to use a lot of ground switching... I discovered this with my 2000 RS coming from a Ford. Would imagine they still do.

P.s, also could mean the switch is always active. Wouldn't surprise me to be honest.
y'all are gonna make me do the hard work aren't you? lol


I thought they would be using negative signals as well and was trying to figure out how to convert a negative power to a positive power. lo-and-behold when I tested with my multimeter and power probe, it used normal 12v source to activate the trunk lock actuator. connected the ground probe and sent positive 12v to one of the other pins (it showed 12v when they key fob button was pressed) and the actuator activated.

the other option is i could wire in a second hidden switch to interrupt the power to the real trunk button and I would need to press both to work..but then that's 2 hands. or I wire up a timed relay and I hit that first before pressing the trunk button. but again, it's not as elegant and doesn't feel/look oem.

I'm actually even toying with the idea now of getting an arduino + rfid receiver + rfid uhf antenna + rfid tags. but that requires programming and doing step downs to from 12v to 5v so I don't burn up the arduino stuff...but then again, since the range on a good board is about 16ft..I could expand the use to doing a full keyless solution with push start (for people who are saying, "why didn't you get the limited?" I couldn't talk my wife into letting us spend $$ on the limited/sport-tech...that's why...also this is a "why the hell not" and "for fun" project)
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Old 08-10-2018, 01:10 PM   #8
BHOD
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I found this thing.

https://www.subiedepot.ca/interior/m...-2013-brz.html

Quote:
In many respects, this system will be better than the OEM!
462$ (can), not so bad
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Old 08-10-2018, 02:14 PM   #9
IndecisiveS12
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where's the fun in a plug and play solution...pfft LOL

i've seen that actually, stripping out the whole interior to run cabling and mount antennas seems like a daunting task. I do miss the proximity key from my infiniti though.
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Old 08-10-2018, 02:53 PM   #10
BHOD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndecisiveS12 View Post
where's the fun in a plug and play solution...pfft LOL

i've seen that actually, stripping out the whole interior to run cabling and mount antennas seems like a daunting task. I do miss the proximity key from my infiniti though.
Mouarf, pas si pire.
Not worse than doing soundeadening and installing a complete audio system like I will do again.
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Old 08-10-2018, 04:00 PM   #11
Big-E
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Both the trunk-lock switch and the trunk-opener switch are integrated into the BIU. I would not tap into the BIU / CANbus system.

Last edited by Big-E; 08-10-2018 at 04:09 PM.
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Old 08-12-2018, 01:11 AM   #12
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From a professional installer with 15+ years experience https://imgur.com/a/AeZKSwA
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Old 08-12-2018, 10:52 PM   #13
IndecisiveS12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booger-Toast View Post
From a professional installer with 15+ years experience https://imgur.com/a/AeZKSwA
Lol thanks. I know how to wire up a relay. I don't want it hot all the time. I only want it hot when the doors are unlocked otherwise anybody can get into my trunk at anytime. Getting a reliable and consistent trigger/signal is my issue.
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Old 08-15-2018, 02:59 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndecisiveS12 View Post
Lol thanks. I know how to wire up a relay. I don't want it hot all the time. I only want it hot when the doors are unlocked otherwise anybody can get into my trunk at anytime. Getting a reliable and consistent trigger/signal is my issue.
It sounds like you don't. You can take the +12v input for the relay and instead have that input coming from a latching relay setup. Thanks.
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Old 08-15-2018, 01:20 PM   #15
IndecisiveS12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booger-Toast View Post
It sounds like you don't. You can take the +12v input for the relay and instead have that input coming from a latching relay setup. Thanks.
I'm willing to put my ego aside and learn if you're willing to put your condescension aside.

Thanks for mentioning a latching relay, I didn't realize that was a possibility with relays.

I'm looking more closely at the diagram you provided and don't fully understand what's going on in relation to my problem, so can you help explain it further?

What I'm getting from this is using the trunk switch to activate the coil, and using the switching relay as the 12v input. I was thinking of putting the switch in-line between the trunk lock actuator and the output switch on the relay, but I like this setup better.

I'm having trouble with two things though. The first is, what is pin 87a doing? Isn't this just a normally closed switch? what is actually wired to this pin from the car?

The second is, if I were to use a latching relay for power to the above relay, i still don't know what to use as an unlock pulse trigger. Also, to disconnect the latching relay when the doors are locked, wouldn't I need a dual coil latching relay with the lock pulse trigger? otherwise once it's active, it will remain active indefinitely right?
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