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Old 10-26-2018, 03:13 PM   #3501
Kito818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow 2.5i View Post
What management are you running
Havent gotten there yet, still putting this build together. I'm doing this to my daily so I'm putting everything together before I install and setup
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Old 10-26-2018, 06:31 PM   #3502
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Originally Posted by Kito818 View Post
A Haltech elite 1500 supports up to 4 VVT at a price point of about 1800$, dont know if thats MUCH better than the 2500 price for you, but if you end up going with the ez30D (metal intake) that motor only has VVT on the intake side, and so the elite 1000 CAN run that one. It's price point is 1567$. So plastic intake (ez30R) is VVT on all four cams, metal intake (ez30D) is VVT on both the intake cams.
EZ30R Plastic Intake = AVCS (timing) and AVLS (lift) on intake cams only and DBW. Also, I don't think the 3.6 is (much?) longer, but it has larger (cam phaser) humps on both sides vs RH only on EZ30R. While the E2500 is more expensive, it does get you a clean, simple, complete solution for all of this. Not a bad investment esp. for first-timers.
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Old 10-26-2018, 11:39 PM   #3503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kito818 View Post
... but if you end up going with the ez30D (metal intake) that motor only has VVT on the intake side... So plastic intake (ez30R) is VVT on all four cams, metal intake (ez30D) is VVT on both the intake cams.
The 1st gen EZ30D ('01-04 cars here in the US) has no variable cam stuff - no AVCS, no AVLS. The 2nd gen EZ30D (aka EZ30R, '05+ vehicles) has AVCS and AVLS on intake cams only, as DSR-3 said. The EZ36 loses AVLS, but adds AVCS to the exhaust cams, too.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow 2.5i View Post
Also are the metal intake ez30d motors drive by cable? And if so would that swap be similar to that of a ej205 where i would just get a mechanical pedal assembly and route a cable?
Yes, the 1st gen EZ30D has a cable-operated throttle body, and yes, shifting from DBW to DBC would be the same for an EZ30 as it is for an EJ205.
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Old 10-28-2018, 09:09 AM   #3504
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Is it clear as to the best standalone unit to run on an eg33 motor swap?
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Old 10-30-2018, 06:22 PM   #3505
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Originally Posted by Subaruguru420 View Post
Is it clear as to the best standalone unit to run on an eg33 motor swap?
I think any discussion of what standalone to get almost always comes down to preference.

I am using a Link of my ej255 and would use one on an h6 built with no hesitation. But a big part of that is because I already know the software.

The Subaru crank and cam timings are very well supported on the majority of standalones.
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Old 10-30-2018, 09:24 PM   #3506
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
The 1st gen EZ30D ('01-04 cars here in the US) has no variable cam stuff - no AVCS, no AVLS. The 2nd gen EZ30D (aka EZ30R, '05+ vehicles) has AVCS and AVLS on intake cams only, as DSR-3 said. The EZ36 loses AVLS, but adds AVCS to the exhaust cams, too.



Yes, the 1st gen EZ30D has a cable-operated throttle body, and yes, shifting from DBW to DBC would be the same for an EZ30 as it is for an EJ205.
I appreciate the help. Are the 05+ ones DBW then im assuming? Might just go Haltech 2500 Elite and do a more modern motor from an 05+ vehical and keep DBW if thats the case
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Old 10-30-2018, 09:35 PM   #3507
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Also does anyone have any idea whats the best header that will fit a GD chassis car?
I know OBX makes them i think but i cannot find them
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Old 10-30-2018, 10:03 PM   #3508
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Lol, found a car 100,000 mile 2006 legacy with the ez30 in it. 1000$. Would i be able to merge the harness on my n/a 2.5i and run the legacys ecu and just cut out the haltech completely? Im just building this to daily and im not going to seriously modify the thing just yet
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Old 11-08-2018, 09:51 PM   #3509
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Hi guys.

Anyone know if the EZ36 out of the Legacy still has provision for using normal engine mounts? (ie possible to unbolt Legacy front/centre mounts and bolt on side-mounts for swapping into a Forester?)

From what I can tell, all EZ36 motors shipped in the Legacy had the front engine mount and EZ36 from Tribecas had the traditional mounts.

Legacy and Tribeca have different case halves and upper-oil pans according to Subaru part numbers so want to be sure that the old mounting points are still there on the newer Legacy blocks before trying to source one...
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Old 11-09-2018, 07:09 AM   #3510
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Surely just looking at it would tell you?
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Old 11-09-2018, 07:12 AM   #3511
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omiotek View Post
Any interest in h6 into impreza parts? I'm debating making a few things and signing up as a vendor

Example:

Radiator
H6 to to impreza motor mount adapter
Headers
Fuel rails
oem rad is a direct swap, as are engine mounts, raptor does headers, and the fuel rails are ridiculously easy to convert.

I don't see you making any money here, sorry dude.
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Old 11-09-2018, 07:42 AM   #3512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vicious_fishes View Post
Surely just looking at it would tell you?
It would if I had one to look at!
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Old 11-09-2018, 02:00 PM   #3513
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I am very close to finishing my EZ30D swap, but this one electrical issue has me stumped. The issue itself shouldn't even relate to the swap since all of the components in question are from the existing car (01 RS).

None of my gauge lights, clock on the gauge, and the backlights for any of the switches (hazard light switch, fog light switch, etc) are working. I checked and see that there's good voltage coming from the Illumination Control Module and good voltage going into each of those switches. I also see that when the power is off there's ground connectivity and no ground connectivity when the power is on (this may be intended?).

Am I missing something obvious? I'm not an electrical guy so pardon my ignorance even when it comes to basic concepts.
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Old 11-09-2018, 06:50 PM   #3514
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Stupid question, do you have the brightness turned up? Or is that not adjustable?
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Old 11-10-2018, 10:04 AM   #3515
Kito818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlatulentFox View Post
I am very close to finishing my EZ30D swap, but this one electrical issue has me stumped. The issue itself shouldn't even relate to the swap since all of the components in question are from the existing car (01 RS).

None of my gauge lights, clock on the gauge, and the backlights for any of the switches (hazard light switch, fog light switch, etc) are working. I checked and see that there's good voltage coming from the Illumination Control Module and good voltage going into each of those switches. I also see that when the power is off there's ground connectivity and no ground connectivity when the power is on (this may be intended?).

Am I missing something obvious? I'm not an electrical guy so pardon my ignorance even when it comes to basic concepts.
Maybe this isn't the "correct" way to diagnose this, but I would start by putting direct 12v to the circuit BEFORE the fuse and see if the lights come on, if not, try after the fuse and continue moving towards the lights themselves until you see them come on. If they never come on then the lights might be burnt out. Otherwise it could be a shorted wire or blown fuse, all the way up to a bad module or BCM. Additionally try dropping on the guys that work in the service department at your local subaru dealership and strike up a conversation. A lot of them will just talk to you for the hell of it and have no problem helping you with the troubleshooting. If you don't want to or just can't get to a service department try consulting the FSM troubleshooting section. I hope this helps, not being there to touch your car, this is what I would do if it happened to my car.
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Old 11-12-2018, 12:48 AM   #3516
Patrick Olsen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vicious_fishes View Post
oem rad is a direct swap, as are engine mounts, raptor does headers, and the fuel rails are ridiculously easy to convert.
The stock EZ30 mounts do work, but they're fluid-filled mounts for a family car. The subject of engine mount adapters to allow one to use any of the myriad of stiffer/firmer/more performance-oriented aftermarket EJ mounts has come up a number of times in this thread, so I think there is a market for those.

Yes, Raptor makes headers, but they're designed to bolt up to a stock system, thus have short primaries that aren't optimal. Someone that isn't worried about emissions, and wants to fully optimize the exhaust performance, wouldn't run the Raptor headers. Not to mention they're built on the opposite side of the world from most of the folks on this forum.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chiddy249 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by vicious_fishes View Post
Surely just looking at it would tell you?
It would if I had one to look at!
That did seem like the obvious answer!
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Old 11-12-2018, 10:46 AM   #3517
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxhard View Post
Stupid question, do you have the brightness turned up? Or is that not adjustable?
I don't believe they are adjustable, but I could be wrong. I don't think this is the issue because the clock in the instrument panel isn't working either, which is also powered by this circuit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kito818 View Post
Maybe this isn't the "correct" way to diagnose this, but I would start by putting direct 12v to the circuit BEFORE the fuse and see if the lights come on, if not, try after the fuse and continue moving towards the lights themselves until you see them come on. If they never come on then the lights might be burnt out. Otherwise it could be a shorted wire or blown fuse, all the way up to a bad module or BCM. Additionally try dropping on the guys that work in the service department at your local subaru dealership and strike up a conversation. A lot of them will just talk to you for the hell of it and have no problem helping you with the troubleshooting. If you don't want to or just can't get to a service department try consulting the FSM troubleshooting section. I hope this helps, not being there to touch your car, this is what I would do if it happened to my car.
I can try this, but I verified that each of the lights are getting 12V power, but they simply don't light up. This leads me to think that it may be a bad ground, but I'm having a hard time trying to verify that. The grounds on the circuit show ground continuity when the car is off, but no ground continuity when the power is on. This may be the intended function, but I have no idea.
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Old 11-12-2018, 12:51 PM   #3518
Kito818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlatulentFox View Post
I don't believe they are adjustable, but I could be wrong. I don't think this is the issue because the clock in the instrument panel isn't working either, which is also powered by this circuit.



I can try this, but I verified that each of the lights are getting 12V power, but they simply don't light up. This leads me to think that it may be a bad ground, but I'm having a hard time trying to verify that. The grounds on the circuit show ground continuity when the car is off, but no ground continuity when the power is on. This may be the intended function, but I have no idea.
Do you have ground while the engine is running and the headlights are on?

Cut the ground in a place you can easily repair and run another wire to ground the lights,
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Old 11-13-2018, 04:00 AM   #3519
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
The stock EZ30 mounts do work, but they're fluid-filled mounts for a family car. The subject of engine mount adapters to allow one to use any of the myriad of stiffer/firmer/more performance-oriented aftermarket EJ mounts has come up a number of times in this thread, so I think there is a market for those.

Yes, Raptor makes headers, but they're designed to bolt up to a stock system, thus have short primaries that aren't optimal. Someone that isn't worried about emissions, and wants to fully optimize the exhaust performance, wouldn't run the Raptor headers. Not to mention they're built on the opposite side of the world from most of the folks on this forum.


That did seem like the obvious answer!
The ez30D mounts are harder than the ez30R . Otherwise there's the russian guy that does aftermarket ones but they're not cheap.

Not sure where you got the idea with the raptor headers though, they're quite long and the whole header is one big piece from factory, there's nothing boltup about them?
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Old 11-13-2018, 07:32 AM   #3520
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Originally Posted by Kito818 View Post
Do you have ground while the engine is running and the headlights are on?

Cut the ground in a place you can easily repair and run another wire to ground the lights,
While the car is 'on' and the headlights are on I don't get ground connectivity. I should be able to jump a wire from the switch ground wire directly to ground just to see if that works. I'm a little worried that I'll damage something, but whatever!
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Old 11-13-2018, 08:54 AM   #3521
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Well my hang scale has arrived and my metal headgasket is leaking (GG machine shop) so my engine might be coming out AGAIN... when I can be bothered.
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Old 11-14-2018, 12:41 PM   #3522
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vicious_fishes View Post
The ez30D mounts are harder than the ez30R.
We'll, they're all fluid-filled - at least, the ones that came on my '02 Outback 30D were. I'm curious what the actual difference is between the 1st and 2nd gen part numbers, but not curious enough to spend the money to find out!


Quote:
Originally Posted by vicious_fishes View Post
Otherwise there's the russian guy that does aftermarket ones but they're not cheap.
That's probably the route I'll end up going. The one thing I don't like is that the bushings are rubber instead of poly. I tried to talk to Sergey Kein on FB about where he actually gets the bushings - could I buy poly bushings for the control arms (or whatever) on X vehicle to replace the rubber? - but I didn't get far. I don't speak any Russian, and I got the impression his English was too limited to really get what I was trying to ask.


Quote:
Originally Posted by vicious_fishes View Post
Not sure where you got the idea with the raptor headers though, they're quite long and the whole header is one big piece from factory, there's nothing boltup about them?
I got the idea from looking at pictures of them - they're obviously way too short and not shaped properly to replace the entire factory header/cat/y-pipe - and from reading Raptor's website, which says, "Catalytic converters remain in standard position," and lists "Weld on flange plates" among the included parts.

Yes, you're correct, they're not a true "bolt-on" - some cutting and welding is required. That was shown earlier in this thread (although that guy did a full custom setup rather than using the factory cats and y-pipe):


So my point still stands - in the end, you'll have a setup that is not truly optimized. "Someone that isn't worried about emissions, and wants to fully optimize the exhaust performance" would have headers that look more like what jzk25 fabbed years ago:


That's
the sort of thing I assumed omiotek meant when he said he was thinking about headers. There's such a small market, though, and there's probably enough variability between platforms that a single design might not fit everything, so I think he's be hard pressed to come up with a solution at a price point that cheapskate Subie owners would accept.
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Old 11-15-2018, 05:30 AM   #3523
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Yeah the market would be virtually non-existent. The raptors make quite a difference but you do need to do the OEM cats etc too, there's several choke points right the way along.

Just putting an MY16 sti catback on mine made an amazing difference (I haven't done the headers yet, they'll be soon), the OEM exhaust is clearly incredibly restrictive.
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Old 11-30-2018, 08:08 AM   #3524
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Anyone know much about the avcs system on these cars? I'm looking at a haltech 750 ecu and it has control for "one" variable cam. I'm wondering if I can just splice/split the signal to go to both solenoids at once or if there's more to it?

As far as I'm aware the avcs is just either "on" or "off", so surely it's just a matter of Y-ing the output wire?
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Old 11-30-2018, 09:29 AM   #3525
Kito818
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Originally Posted by vicious_fishes View Post
Anyone know much about the avcs system on these cars? I'm looking at a haltech 750 ecu and it has control for "one" variable cam. I'm wondering if I can just splice/split the signal to go to both solenoids at once or if there's more to it?

As far as I'm aware the avcs is just either "on" or "off", so surely it's just a matter of Y-ing the output wire?
I know that haltech supplies a base map for the 2500e, and while I tried and tried I couldn't get the pinouts without the 2500e, unless I added some can bus modules, but then suddenly I was looking at the same cost or more than the 2500e. So I'm probably going to order mine in the next day or so.
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