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Old 04-09-2019, 02:49 PM   #501
mrsaturn7085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jigga View Post
Thanks for the response

To answer your question, the answer is "both". I do have a standalone running the car most of the time, but my stock ECU does have to go back in occasionally for emissions purposes (and will have to go back into the car in a few weeks again actually), hence part of the desire to keep the stock FPC in the loop.

As is now, I can switch the stock ECU back in easily by just plugging it in and it is able to run the primary pumps on the car without issue, as it can power up the relay running the primary pumps, and run them at a constant speed.
I understand the issue - personally, I just register my car in a rural area at a family member's address. As long as you store the vehicle there now and then (and can reliably receive mail there), the DMV should allow it. I would NOT do this at an out-of-state address or a friend's address.

However - to continue with your current process, you can pull this off by sourcing a second FPC and making a jumper harness out of the 8 inch sub-harness it comes with.

A good trick to make sure you never mess this up is to make the standalone trigger the fuel pump relay using an opposite electrical signal when compared to the OEM ECU. For example:

If the stock ECU is sending a 5V 'enable' signal to the FPC (common to most 32-bit Subaru models), you set the relay up to close when the ECU sends a grounding signal.

-or-

If the stock ECU is sending a ground 'enable' signal to the FPC (which is how SOME 16-bit Subaru models work), you set the relay up to close when the ECU sends a 12V signal.

Side note - the 5V-active controllers WILL accept a 12V signal without any issue. I did it for years on a 2006 STI using a MoTeC M800 before converting to a relay.
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Old 04-12-2019, 08:17 PM   #502
jdarrow12
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dw sells a hardwire kit for $35, but not sure how it would compare to a homemade option
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Old 04-24-2019, 02:27 PM   #503
veritasaequitas
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So I was having parasitic draw issues with this setup as someone had previously mentjoned(of course I didn't see it till after I did all of my diagnosing and testing). Like previously stated you need to get a switched ignition from another source other than the fuel system. I had used a add a circuit kit to achieve this. First I taped into a circuit that was hot switched but turned off when in start position. I wound up using the srs light fuse spot inside the cabin(05 STI).
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Old 04-28-2019, 12:49 PM   #504
Self_Control_Me
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Originally Posted by Self_Control_Me View Post
i'm thinking the power-io suggestion is the best option. especially for people that want maintain PWM for their fuel pump like me. i dont want my oversized fuel pump pumping 100% and heating my fuel while im setting in the parking lot at walmart.

why not wire the power-io module to the factory FPC where fuel pump used to be. then let the power-io module power the fuel pump/s. the HDD-06V75E is good for 75amps and dont forget the freewheeling diode across the load.

this is what i plan to do. in my case i have a lift pump in the tank and a surge pot pump in the trunk. i'm going to power both pumps from the 1 power-io module.

thanks for the clue above - i hope my plan works - i'll try to remember to post back after i test this out.
ok - this works fine, a bit pricey and wiring intensive but works great to maintain pwm of the fuel pump.

your wiring skills have to be pretty good if your going to do this. if anyone is interested, i will text mesage or email you my diagram. im not posting it on here because i doubt anyone really cares as much about keeping the fuel pump screaming as i do.

i just figured i'd support John at Power-io because he was so nice and actually gave me an extra free pwm relay.
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Old 05-05-2019, 01:00 AM   #505
Self_Control_Me
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Self_Control_Me View Post
ok - this works fine, a bit pricey and wiring intensive but works great to maintain pwm of the fuel pump.

your wiring skills have to be pretty good if your going to do this. if anyone is interested, i will text mesage or email you my diagram. im not posting it on here because i doubt anyone really cares as much about keeping the fuel pump screaming as i do.

i just figured i'd support John at Power-io because he was so nice and actually gave me an extra free pwm relay.
here is the diagram i was referring to, i got a few messages about this. i have confirmed that the pump does slow down when the ECU tells the fuel pump controller to. It is alot of work and alot of soldering but the pwm of the pump is preserved and the relay is capable of a whopping 75amps.

Last edited by Self_Control_Me; 05-05-2019 at 01:10 AM.
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Old 05-05-2019, 01:05 AM   #506
Self_Control_Me
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Self_Control_Me View Post
here is the diagram i was referring to, i got a few messages about this. i have confirmed that the pump does slow down when the ECU tells the fuel pump controller to. It is alot of work and alot of soldering but the pwm of the pump is preserved and the relay is capable of a whopping 75amps.

https://photos.google.com/album/AF1Q...8tpUY3XISM.jpg
godam filing sharing

note that this is on a 2011 sti

https://photos.app.goo.gl/UKgMAwNWMMqcJnoi8

Last edited by Self_Control_Me; 05-05-2019 at 01:13 AM.
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Old 05-20-2019, 10:11 AM   #507
Self_Control_Me
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Self_Control_Me View Post
godam filing sharing

note that this is on a 2011 sti

https://photos.app.goo.gl/UKgMAwNWMMqcJnoi8
here is an update to this wiring diagram. i switched the zener to a 3.3v zener which really doesnt matter but that part number is mouser #863-1N5333BRLG.

the most important update is disconnecting the Lgr wire that goes from pin 9 on the fpc to pin b10 on the ecu. that is a diagnostic wire that does something like transmit actual motor duty cycle to the ecu/gives the ecu feedback of some sort but im not really sure. after disconnecting the diagnostic wire, the ecu output reading via accessport and the sound of my aem 50-1005 is more normal. it simply switches from 66% to 100% when i give it a little bit of throttle. when the diagnostic wire was still connected, it would do some funny surging of the pwm signal that i could hear and see via pwm output reading on the accessport, probably trying to compensate for a pure resistive load rather than an inductive motor load is my guess.

also, p0230 would need to be disabled.

im going to drive it around for a while. i need to get a new tune done after installing the swirl pot setup and the aem 50-1005 but im going to drive it around a bit before i do. i know im running just crazy rich, so i should be alright.

i'll report back if i make any changes for anyone thats crazy enough to put this much soldering and install time into making your pump not run 100% all them time. LOL :-)
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Old 05-29-2019, 08:18 AM   #508
BlueSTI4Me
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Info.....................
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Old 09-11-2019, 04:31 PM   #509
00redobs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brazzl61 View Post
Hope this better helps. If not feel free to ask questions.



Also, someone asked about amperage somewhere, reason that amperage is able to flow is by creating a thick short path to ground. The amperage can travel through small gauge wire and FPC if the path is short enough. This is why I did not skip on putting that extra ground directly off the FPC.
Any chance someone saved this image? I regret not doing so.
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