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Old 01-28-2020, 09:11 PM   #1
Jacob11531
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Member#: 506759
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Cary, IL
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2009 WRX

Default New car questiones oil,powersteering,clutch

Hi everyone.

Just got an 09 WRX a few weeks ago and I have a couple questions if you guys can help out

1. I've read that its common for Subaru's to rev the car up a little bit at idle to assist turning the wheel. In my case only 50% of the time will the car do this and 50% of the time it wont increase the idle at all and its almost impossible to turn the wheel unless I rev the car myself. Its just nice in certain situations for the car the rev up when I turn the wheel. Idle is at 850 and I can increase to 950 off the accessport If that is ok but I would still like to fix this issue. I've read to clean the idle control valve, and to check the wire that connects to the power steering pump which I will do this weekend, just trying to get some added input based off your experiences.

2. Its also time for an oil change. A known Subaru engine builder near me said to run Mobile 1 0W-40 as it has zinc in the formula which these cars need. I cant remember what filter he recommended so I figure I will ask here as well. Live in the Chicago area so quite an up and down climate if that's needed and motor has 75k on rebuilt short block. What do you guys recommend I use?

3. Unfortunately, I have a cracked tube that runs from the clutch pedal to the master cyl rod and will be getting that re welded with gussets this weekend as well as 4 of the 6 firewall welds (seems to be a very common problem 08+) My question is when it comes time to reinstall the pedal assembly, how do I got about adjusting the clutch play. In my best wording what I'm referring to is the adjustment coming from the master cyl rod to the shaft that pushes the rod in. Want to make sure I have the correct adjustment while reinstalling the pedals.

Ik some of these questions are basic but any help is really appreciated. Thanks!
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Old 01-28-2020, 09:22 PM   #2
Trob
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1. Sounds like power steering problem. Could be low or have a small leak. As far as idle going up. Iíve never heard of it but maybe some one will chime in.

2. I as well as others use Motul 5w 30. As far as oil filter. I use stock Subaru oil filter. I live in Alaska -30 right now. The thin synthetic is best for cold but you can run 40 as well with no problem. We have block heaters and oil/transmission heating pads.

3. I can tell you. I just did this on my 2011 Wrx with new Act clutch. If you send them an email. They will send you the instructions.
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Old 01-29-2020, 04:48 PM   #3
Subie_
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Crystal gray metallic

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1. Yea, sounds like power steering. Check fluid level noting the hot & cold fill lines on the reservoir. If at the correct level, while idling, pop the hood and remove the power steering reservoir cap and see if the fluid appears foamy or has bubbles. There’s an o-ring between the suction tube & where it connects to the top of the power steering pump that likes to let air in; it needs replacement periodically. If you replace it take care not to over-torque it.

Another cause could be an incorrect hose is installed. The tube between the reservoir & pump is under suction and therefore needs to be rigid. If heater or other flexible hose is used, the tube will collapse and restrict flow to the pump. If it’s easily compressed by hand replace it with OEM part, which has a distinct formed shape.

If it’s neither of these, internal pump seals could be letting go or the steering rack might be leaking. It's also possible an undersized or poor quality aftermarket pump is installed.

You can bump the base idle 100 rpm without hurting anything, but it’s a band-aid. You really need to investigate pump/ leak issues.

I’m pretty sure the 09 WRX is drive by wire (electronically controlled w/o a throttle cable). If this is the case there is no IAC valve to clean; removing & cleaning the throttle body & butterfly plate is usually beneficial and worth the effort though.

2. I use Motul as well. I see no issue with Mob 1 though.

The OEM filter is actually pretty good, that's what I & many others use. There’s a nice comparison to aftermarket filters somewhere here on the forums. From it, I recall Bosch and the top tier Purolator (gold?) being equivalent or slightly better alternatives.

3. Mark it with whiteout before disassembling and put it back exactly, or Google search the Factory Service Manual (FSM) which will outline the procedure in detail - it’s readily available & super easy to find.
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Old 01-30-2020, 09:20 PM   #4
Jacob11531
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For sure,

1. I will check into what you guys suggested for the power steering and let you know what I see on Saturday when I have time to work on it. Coming off what you said Trob, I have read a few post saying how these cars naturally rev the car a little bit at an idle to aid the power steering when the wheel is turned. And yes the car is drive by idle so that takes out the chance of a dirty IAC valve. Car has a brand new throttle body replaced by the old owner, looked very clean as well while taking a close look when the TGV's and manifold were removed.

2. I already have a qt of 0W-40 Mobile 1 laying around so I will end up doing this change with this oil and if it holds up well this time, I will continue using it for now. However, is it better for me to run the 5W-30 still such as Motul? Besides being recommended to use the 0W-40 by an engine builder, can the thicker oil help out more since the motor is 75k? My 2 options for filters is a quick stop in and out of for a WIX filter or I will have to drive 30 mins to the dealership for an OEM. I'm sure either are fine but does one exceed the other?

3. This car does have a stage 3 clutch but all I know is that and not the brand. I'm sure it is an ACT though. I will call them first as you said Trob and see what the say. I will take a peek at the service manual as well. I just want to make sure the adjustment is correct for peace of mind.

Once again, I appreciate all the help!
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Old 01-31-2020, 06:58 AM   #5
rtv900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacob11531 View Post
A known Subaru engine builder near me said to run Mobile 1 0W-40 as it has zinc in the formula which these cars need. Thanks!
smh

these cars 'need' the exact same lubrication as every ICE on the planet, so to summarize, any synthetic oil available at any retail store is fine.
Mobil 1 is fine since it meets that criteria of being available here on earth
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Old 01-31-2020, 09:22 AM   #6
bluesubie
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Default New car questiones oil,powersteering,clutch

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacob11531 View Post

I already have a qt of 0W-40 Mobile 1 laying around so I will end up doing this change with this oil and if it holds up well this time, I will continue using it for now. However, is it better for me to run the 5W-30 still such as Motul? Besides being recommended to use the 0W-40 by an engine builder, can the thicker oil help out more since the motor is 75k? My 2 options for filters is a quick stop in and out of for a WIX filter or I will have to drive 30 mins to the dealership for an OEM. I'm sure either are fine but does one exceed the other?


Mobil 1 0W-40 is an excellent choice but not just because it has mOaR ZDDP. The days of ZDDP of being the only anti-wear additive in oil are long gone.

Castrol Edge 0W-40 is another good choice and continues to meet the BMW Long Life spec whereas Mobil 1 does not. That doesnít necessarily mean that Mobil 1 isnít as good as Castrol. They both meet Porsche and MB specs.

People have a tendency to recommend brand, but you should compare specs over brand. Motul has 6 5W-30ís which meet a variety of different specs.

With 185k miles on my FXT, I say that the oil filter doesnít matter. I probably use OEM 80% of the time and whatever came free with oil specials the other 20%.
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Old 01-31-2020, 02:27 PM   #7
Corn_Bread
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i use penzoil ultra plat 5w-30 with the factory subie filter or will use a wix filter in a pinch.
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Old 02-01-2020, 07:25 PM   #8
Jacob11531
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Got the oil changed, took a little bit less than 5 qts instead of 4.2, also removed the felt liner for the skid plate since it was disintegrating and figured it is not serving its purpose at this point. In the process I seen some things wrong. Change every 3k correct?

1. There are 2 ground cables on either side of the motor. Upon inspection, The drivers side is intact but looks like it could be replaced however the passenger side is ripped into 2. Its connected to the frame and as expected I looked for the other part of it on the motor and I could not find it at all. Surprised the car runs normal since a ground cable could set off some codes imo. Where is this passenger ground cable suppose to go? First pic is broken passenger side, other 2 are the drivers side.




2. I think I may have a dent in the oil pan also. I took some pics to show. Maybe this is how Subaru designed them but I'm not sure. Too hard to tell if its designed that way or dented.




Never got the chance to pop off the power steering cap while hot but inspecting under the car I see no leaks, just a very light coating as you would see on a lot of cars imo. Will inspect for sure tomorrow as I will be trying my best attempt at removing the pedal assembly and fixing firewall welds.

Last edited by Jacob11531; 02-01-2020 at 07:39 PM.
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Old 02-08-2020, 08:58 PM   #9
Trob
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1. The grounds need to be on. The passenger side hooks tho the exhaust heat shield. You can run with out this one. I do with Agency Power headers. The driver side you need hooked to the head. With out this one. You will throw codes for crank position sensor, and cam position sensor.

2. Your oil pan by the picture looks dented. It should be flat.
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Old 02-09-2020, 03:58 PM   #10
Jacob11531
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Location: Cary, IL
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2009 WRX

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trob View Post
1. The grounds need to be on. The passenger side hooks tho the exhaust heat shield. You can run with out this one. I do with Agency Power headers. The driver side you need hooked to the head. With out this one. You will throw codes for crank position sensor, and cam position sensor.

2. Your oil pan by the picture looks dented. It should be flat.


Weird I was told that the car needs to have at least both those grounds to run properly. I have a cyl 3 misfire issue under boost and I was told to fix the grounds first then see from there. If they donít fix my issue I was told to check the compression which I really hope is in check.
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Old 02-11-2020, 10:15 PM   #11
Trob
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Really is five grounds. Diver side head and tgv. Passenger side head or exhaust manifold, one by battery and one by the top of transmission on fire wall. I can say 2011 Wrx built motor no passenger side ground. No issues.
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