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Old 01-08-2020, 11:13 PM   #31426
dcon9999
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I have a heavy foot. I'm usually 28 in winter, 32 in summer on a commute of 40-50 mph backroads. City I get 18. Highway usually 30. Roof rack reduces me 2mpg when it's on
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Old 01-09-2020, 02:17 AM   #31427
IHaveAHorse
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18mpg city sounds pretty accurate, I feel like any city driving, especially with poorly timed lights, really quickly tanks your MPG.
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Old 01-09-2020, 05:33 PM   #31428
FFWD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Star4998 View Post
Hi there, I own a 2012 Impreza that's giving me some issues. My dad recommended I post in a Subaru forum where people are knowledgeable about Imprezas, so I'm hoping you guys might have some idea.
About a week ago I turned my car on while it was raining outside, and the check engine light & vehicle dynamics control warning light came on and stayed on. Not only that but the cruise control kept blinking on and off and was unresponsive to any buttons on the wheel. This happened for about a week every time I turned on my car, my theory was that some rain possibly got in the fuse box and caused signals to go haywire.... Until I turned it on today and it had a hard time starting, made a strange noise (it kind of sounded like a mechanical cough), and when it finally started, all the warning lights were off & I could use my cruise control again. I had been running errands today and had only turned my car off about 10 mins before this, which the warning lights were still on then.
The fact that it went away makes me feel like my car should be fine, but the noise was worrisome and the lights never should have come on in the first place. Does anyone have any ideas why this may have happened? My dad and I work on our cars at home but we're unfamiliar with Subarus, any ideas that we can look into would be much appreciated!
If this happens again, you should have the code read from the OBD port under driver's side of the dashboard. I think some shops in the US do it for free, like Pep Boys? I had the same symptoms on Christmas Eve, my code was P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold. After resetting it, it hasn't come back. Fingers crossed it was just a glitch or the post-cat O2 sensor on its way out.
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Old 01-09-2020, 05:37 PM   #31429
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I thought I read somewhere there was a flash for the 2012 impreza CVT to make it more peppy. How would I know if I already have it, and do the dealers charge for it? Anyone have the lastest and does it actually make a difference?
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Old 01-09-2020, 06:49 PM   #31430
DieselDorf
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Havenít heatd anything about it.

A tune would help performance a little since it doesnít rev as fast as it can to get to redline when in D.

Not that it would really be noticeable going from 10.2 to 10.1 0-60 lol
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Old 01-10-2020, 11:54 AM   #31431
FFWD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDorf View Post
Havenít heatd anything about it.

A tune would help performance a little since it doesnít rev as fast as it can to get to redline when in D.

Not that it would really be noticeable going from 10.2 to 10.1 0-60 lol
I don't mean raw performance. I find the programming to be a little off and it seems to hold the "gear" ratio sometimes and doesn't want to accelerate at all with significant additional pedal pressure until you're almost flooring it. Very unpredictable which causes problems when you think you only need a certain amount of throttle to pass someone.
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Old 01-10-2020, 03:22 PM   #31432
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FFWD View Post
I don't mean raw performance. I find the programming to be a little off and it seems to hold the "gear" ratio sometimes and doesn't want to accelerate at all with significant additional pedal pressure until you're almost flooring it. Very unpredictable which causes problems when you think you only need a certain amount of throttle to pass someone.
i drove a 2019 for a couple of weeks and it definitely was more responsive in spite of similar hp and torque numbers. the most notable difference was when the car was warming up. the 2019 was much more drivable, my car (2012) just makes a lot of noise and it seems as if the CVT is almost slipping when my engine is cold. it's fine once the engine is up to temp. yet even then, i liked the throttle response on the 2019 better.
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Old 01-10-2020, 04:45 PM   #31433
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I imagine all they did was map it more aggressively. No way it's significantly faster with basically the same engine.
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Old 01-10-2020, 06:27 PM   #31434
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IHaveAHorse View Post
I imagine all they did was map it more aggressively. No way it's significantly faster with basically the same engine.
yep. wish it would be easy to change it in my car. i liked the mapping on the 2019 much better.
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Old 01-10-2020, 08:18 PM   #31435
DieselDorf
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Mine usually is pretty peppy even from cold. Every once in a while it feels like I have to use a lot more throttle though, maybe itís when recirculate is on or something like defrost or AC?

I know what you mean though.
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Old 01-11-2020, 12:46 AM   #31436
IHaveAHorse
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Bought a continental V belt to see if that helps with the compressor noise I sometimes get, especially on rainy nights when the engine is warmish but not fully warmed up. Wasn't sure what brand to buy buy I trust continental for tires for bikes and cars, so I went with them even though it was like $8 more than the cheapest option.

I have one other thing I'm 99% certain will fix my AC compressor ticking/rubbing noise if this doesn't do it. It's a common thing if you look it up on Crosstrek forums, which I tend to search for since they're nearly identical cars for most purposes, and when you search for Impreza you get a ton of results for ancient models and RS and all these other models that are completely different.
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Old 01-11-2020, 08:03 AM   #31437
DieselDorf
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Check your pulley wheels mine are starting to make a ticking noise around 100k could be that too.
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Old 01-11-2020, 03:23 PM   #31438
DieselDorf
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Any tips on closing the air filter box? The outside edge doesnít want to go down further so it can latch.

I feel like I will break it if I push harder.
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Old 01-11-2020, 06:38 PM   #31439
IHaveAHorse
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If it's not going together it's probably not lined up. I've had times where it takes like 10 minutes of screwing around with it to get it to line up, then you should be able to push down the latches with maybe a few pounds of force to get them to latch.
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Old 01-11-2020, 08:03 PM   #31440
DieselDorf
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Yea itís kind of a tight squeeze and hard to see the bottom tabs.

Does the filter stay in place or kind of wiggle around until you latch it up?

It was too cold out so I came in to warm up haha
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Old 01-11-2020, 10:40 PM   #31441
IHaveAHorse
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I believe it has a little wiggle room until clamped.
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Old 01-12-2020, 05:38 PM   #31442
IHaveAHorse
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I got my new belt on, gave up on trying just trying to pull it on with the tensioner cranked to the max, so I took the idler pulley off like someone suggested and then I was able to bolt it back on with just a little bit of force with the tensioner locked in the loose position. Probably should have changed the idlers/tensioner or something but eh, 5 minute job if I ever have to do that. The old belt didn't look super worn but then again I hear they rarely do, they just start squeaking and slipping one day.
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Old 01-13-2020, 11:01 AM   #31443
FFWD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IHaveAHorse View Post
I got my new belt on, gave up on trying just trying to pull it on with the tensioner cranked to the max, so I took the idler pulley off like someone suggested and then I was able to bolt it back on with just a little bit of force with the tensioner locked in the loose position. Probably should have changed the idlers/tensioner or something but eh, 5 minute job if I ever have to do that. The old belt didn't look super worn but then again I hear they rarely do, they just start squeaking and slipping one day.
Is continental the OEM for the belt? If not, maybe itís just slightly shorter causing that problem.
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Old 01-13-2020, 03:48 PM   #31444
IHaveAHorse
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No, that's pretty standard for serp belts, they're a bitch to get on in most cases. They have to account for potentially an inch or two of stretch over the life so the tensioner is going to be nearly maxed out when you start.
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Old 01-13-2020, 10:57 PM   #31445
IHaveAHorse
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Actually forget what I said, I can just use some VHB double sided tape and stick a piece of rubber or plastic where the gas pedal bottoms out to effectively lower the rev limit.

Last edited by IHaveAHorse; 01-14-2020 at 01:08 AM.
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Old 01-14-2020, 08:16 PM   #31446
FFWD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IHaveAHorse View Post
No, that's pretty standard for serp belts, they're a bitch to get on in most cases. They have to account for potentially an inch or two of stretch over the life so the tensioner is going to be nearly maxed out when you start.
On my Acura, you need to get the socket on the tensioner at just the right angle so that when you leverage it, the handle doesn't hit something before fully opening. BMW's are easy peasy.
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Old 01-18-2020, 11:22 PM   #31447
IHaveAHorse
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Anyone know roughly how much it would cost to have a Subaru dealer check my AC refrigerant pressures? I'm hoping it's not much because that would take like 5 minutes to do at home if you had the equipment I imagine. Maybe even free if the dealer is honest and decent?
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Old 01-19-2020, 10:13 AM   #31448
DieselDorf
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Call them and ask every place is different. Some theybwill just charge you regardless hourly some will be nice and do it for free.
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Old 01-19-2020, 02:45 PM   #31449
CalTech87
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Replaced my brakes today, ~70k miles on the car. Was getting some pretty bad squeaking lately, had an OEM set laying around, and figured I may as well get it over it with.

Unfortunately the last time my wheels were removed the shop over torqued one of the nuts (left most). Since it was stuck on there I just used a breaker bar and snapped it off.

Seems easy enough to replace the hub assembly, a shame I cant replace the single bolt. Looks like the part number is: 28473FL040. Shouldnt be too expensive doing the labor myself. Anyone been through this, things I should look out for?

Also in the market for new tires, will probably try some summers for this boring San Diego weather.

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Old 01-19-2020, 07:24 PM   #31450
IHaveAHorse
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Uhhhh it should be super easy to replace the wheel studs? I've done it before when some mouth breather at a tire shop cross-threaded several lugnuts on my car. In fact I still carry around the extra studs I bought in my car in case I find another one snapped in half when I'm changing the tire to the spare on the side of the road some day.

Take the parking brake drum/brake rotor off m8

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