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Old 08-07-2014, 11:04 PM   #1026
blehhh
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Originally Posted by themaus View Post
You can fiddle with that bracket and it won't rub or hit. I had to mess around with it when I installed mine.
I seem to have fixed the bracket issue, and the bracket was causing my pedal feedback, so the car does at least feel a lot smoother now.

But the resonance / knocking noise persists (I tried it with the bracket completely removed.)

Old vid, but listen very closely at 0:13 & 0:21 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TpehxuiEE9c
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Old 08-21-2014, 09:35 AM   #1027
ryangilmore
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Interesting read about a lawsuit concerning abnormal oil consumption levels in Subaru models.

http://www.usatoday.com/story/money/...suit/12859865/
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Old 08-21-2014, 09:48 AM   #1028
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Originally Posted by ryangilmore View Post
Interesting read about a lawsuit concerning abnormal oil consumption levels in Subaru models.

http://www.usatoday.com/story/money/...suit/12859865/
Interesting. Even the last production N/A EJ25'S were having ring issues. My 2000 outback doesn't burn a drop of oil over 4000 miles now that I have new head gaskets. Wouldn't expect to see things go backwards on the sohc mills after 15 years of simple head gasket problems.
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Old 08-21-2014, 10:04 AM   #1029
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Originally Posted by fiorano94 View Post
My car is currently at the dealer awaiting tear down.

2014 STi - 43XX miles and bone stock

Daily driven, no mods, no auto x, no rally x, no track days. No symptoms of failure or oil consumption. Came out from dinner one night and it was clacking like mad.

I'll post up once the tear down has happened and there is an official diagnosis, but more than likely spun bearing.

Just an update on this for anyone that might care:

Turbo and Shortblock have been replaced. Tear down confirmed that it was a spun bearing. Will be covered by warranty. I should have the car back by the end of the week.
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Old 08-21-2014, 02:05 PM   #1030
sdunlimited
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Originally Posted by fiorano94 View Post
Just an update on this for anyone that might care:



Turbo and Shortblock have been replaced. Tear down confirmed that it was a spun bearing. Will be covered by warranty. I should have the car back by the end of the week.

Was that 43xx miles driven on the initial oil that was in the motor? Interesting situation seeing it fail so early on.


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Old 08-21-2014, 08:42 PM   #1031
fiorano94
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Originally Posted by sdunlimited View Post
Was that 43xx miles driven on the initial oil that was in the motor? Interesting situation seeing it fail so early on.


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Nope. Oil was changed at 1500 miles or so. I was going to head to the dealer around 4500 for another change.
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Old 08-22-2014, 12:52 PM   #1032
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My 2014 wrx is in the shop now waiting for a new short block. The dealer says they will inspect/clean everything, and replace additional parts only if necessary. I mentioned replacing oil system components and the service mgr says they will clean them, but only replace if necessary. I see a number of you getting new oil systems and turbos with the new short block. He also does not think this failure is related to oil at all (I was running mobil 1 5w-30, which i have now learned is foolish (it was listed in another thread as a good 5w-30 option) so shame on me for being a stupid new owner). Any advice on how to guarantee a quality rebuild at the dealership or put in place some type of quality control for my own sanity?
-thanks, D
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Old 08-22-2014, 01:10 PM   #1033
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^It has nothing to do with the oil you were using. The car is simply too new. There's an issue with the bearings in the 2013+ cars.

There's really nothing you can do to verify that the short block and "cleaning" work was correctly done. I'd inspect the motor, top to bottom, when you get it back. Look to make sure everything is where it should be, connected, nothing leaking, not making funny noises, runs correctly (verify boost psi), etc. I'd change the oil myself within 1,000 miles and inspect it very closely for debris and metallic flakes.

If you want to use a robust and Subaru acceptable 5W30, Pennzoil Ultra is your best choice.
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Old 08-22-2014, 05:46 PM   #1034
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The good Mobil1 5W-30 is Mobil1 ESP.

Pennzoil Ultra is great oil, but I wouldn't call any GF5 oil robust. You can't have your cake and eat it too. This is why Euro oils are not GF5/Resource Conserving.

PU 5W-30 after 2,300 miles:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...topics/3442654

Although if you're in Canada, you might be able to find mis-labeled Mobil1 5W-30 ESP. The labeling says it meets Euro specs and GF5, which is impossible.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...497181&page=17


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Old 08-22-2014, 09:06 PM   #1035
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Originally Posted by bluesubie View Post
The good Mobil1 5W-30 is Mobil1 ESP.

Pennzoil Ultra is great oil, but I wouldn't call any GF5 oil robust. You can't have your cake and eat it too. This is why Euro oils are not GF5/Resource Conserving.

PU 5W-30 after 2,300 miles:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...topics/3442654

There are plenty of other people showing PU 5W-30 staying way within grade. Look at the oil change intervals on that 2012 WRX example too. 8 months. 8 freaking months! That's a long time to leave your oil in there. This guy either hardly drives and parks the car for long periods for which the oil accumulates moisture. Or he hardly drives far every day which then causes fuel dilution/breakdown. You can't go by mileage only on oil. You also have to consider time. Lots of people don't understand that. On my next change I'll run a test and see what my PU 5W-30 looks like after 4K miles, 4 months, and lots of boost.
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Old 08-24-2014, 07:52 AM   #1036
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How does oil sitting in a pan "accumulate moisture?"

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Old 08-24-2014, 04:43 PM   #1037
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I don't know, perhaps the humidity in the air, that air of which is all throughout the motor, running or not.

Would you not change the oil on a used replacement motor? LOL
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Old 08-24-2014, 05:26 PM   #1038
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I would be a lot more afraid of oil that is used for short trips (thus never getting above 212f yet still experiencing temperature swings high enough to cause condensation issues) than oil that is just sitting there in a crankcase.

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Old 08-25-2014, 04:16 PM   #1039
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I would be a lot more afraid of oil that is used for short trips (thus never getting above 212f yet still experiencing temperature swings high enough to cause condensation issues) than oil that is just sitting there in a crankcase.
I completely agree 100%. It's why I change the oil in my wife's 2007 Outback every 3 to 4 months, regardless of mileage which is usually 2000-2500 miles. She does tons of short trips ranging from 2 to 5 miles at a time. If I went by mileage, we'd be changing it every 6 to 8 months. Hell no!
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Old 08-26-2014, 12:51 AM   #1040
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Originally Posted by MaddMax View Post
There are plenty of other people showing PU 5W-30 staying way within grade. Look at the oil change intervals on that 2012 WRX example too. 8 months. 8 freaking months! That's a long time to leave your oil in there. This guy either hardly drives and parks the car for long periods for which the oil accumulates moisture. Or he hardly drives far every day which then causes fuel dilution/breakdown. You can't go by mileage only on oil. You also have to consider time. Lots of people don't understand that. On my next change I'll run a test and see what my PU 5W-30 looks like after 4K miles, 4 months, and lots of boost.
No he didn't. If you read the BITOG post he states that he would do UOA's every other OCI. It's more like only 3 months if you go by his first and second samples. He might have gone...maybe an extra month if you just simply average it out...

Miles on unit: 23171-17999 = 5172 not 2326...there's an extra oil change in those eight months.

So 4 months (at the most) and 2396 miles... and it sheared down to a 20? Not exactly what I would call, "robust".
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Old 08-26-2014, 03:29 AM   #1041
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OK, then what about this test with PU 5w30 on a 2013 WRX that gets tracked and 4500 miles on the oil. It didn't shear down significantly. This report is no different from many others reported on BITOG site for WRXs and PU 5W30.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=3199269
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Old 08-26-2014, 07:49 AM   #1042
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Default Rod Bearing Failure Nightmares/Stories (One thread to rule them all)

Even a year is not that long and some OEM's specify this as the maximum time on oil.

-Dennis


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Old 08-26-2014, 11:43 PM   #1043
meebs
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OK, then what about this test with PU 5w30 on a 2013 WRX that gets tracked and 4500 miles on the oil. It didn't shear down significantly. This report is no different from many others reported on BITOG site for WRXs and PU 5W30.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=3199269
So overall it sounds like it holds up... "okay" on average. Certainly nothing to write home about. No two motor is alike and certainly no two driver for that matter. The guy who sheared down to a 20 with no track time but hard driving, versus a guy who tracked it "a couple of times" and drove it stayed on the low side of "in grade"? Not a huge difference but not great either.

There's really not enough consistent data points to decide one way or another but you can spot a lot of coincidences I'd rather not be a part of.

I don't get why the oil argument persists when there are great affordable choices out there. My average 23.6 mpg (measured over a year) is about on par with people who feel the need to run 30 wt. The 2 mpg I might get just isn't worth the risk to me!
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Old 08-27-2014, 03:28 AM   #1044
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meebs View Post
So overall it sounds like it holds up... "okay" on average. Certainly nothing to write home about. No two motor is alike and certainly no two driver for that matter. The guy who sheared down to a 20 with no track time but hard driving, versus a guy who tracked it "a couple of times" and drove it stayed on the low side of "in grade"? Not a huge difference but not great either.

There's really not enough consistent data points to decide one way or another but you can spot a lot of coincidences I'd rather not be a part of.

I don't get why the oil argument persists when there are great affordable choices out there. My average 23.6 mpg (measured over a year) is about on par with people who feel the need to run 30 wt. The 2 mpg I might get just isn't worth the risk to me!

yeah...lotsa idiots out there.....and bein stupid for.....

no

good

reason.

THAT is the most highlarryous part of the whole thing....
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Old 08-27-2014, 03:50 PM   #1045
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Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
yeah...lotsa idiots out there.....and bein stupid for.....

no

good

reason.

THAT is the most highlarryous part of the whole thing....
Yeah, because no motor has ever spun a bearing running RT6 or any other synthetic 5W-40
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Old 09-07-2014, 11:56 PM   #1046
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Originally Posted by hudyxray View Post
Hey everyone, figured I would post this here too. I'm looking for some serious advice.

Thanks

NAME: Michael Patterson

MAKE: 2015 STi Launch Edition

MILAGE: 4,370

TIME OUT OF SERVICE: 2 days for boost controller failure. Just dropped off for engine failure last night

PROBLEM: Engine self-destructed. Incredibly bad knocking.

MODIFICATIONS: None

SUBMITTED FOR WARRANTY WORK?: Yes

REASON FOR DENIAL: N/A

YOUR STORY:

Randomly (as far as I can tell), the turbo decided to stop building pressure at 8psi. I took the car into the dealer and told them. After having the car for 2 days and supposedly calling SOA tech guys when their own Master Tech's couldn't solve the problem, they simply reset the ECU and I was on my way. The turbo was back to spooling to full boost pressure.

On my way into the mountains (I live in Denver) yesterday I noticed a slight knock. I turned around immediately and decided to head back to town and get the car to the dealership. About 2 miles after limping back to town at 50mph in the slow lane turning about 2000rpm the engine started making violent sounds. Rattles/knocks/Lord of the Rings-esque battles cries/etc like I have never heard before. I pulled over immediately to a sudden loss of power. Stopped on the side of the road I called the dealership who gave me a number of a wrecker. 5 hours later I got the car dropped off and the key into the night drop-off box.

I am going in to the shop first thing tomorrow morning to discuss.

What are my options? What negotiating power do I have? A replaced short block is beyond ridiculous. A replaced long block would still have issues as other parts of the system (i.e.: oil cooler) would be completely infected with metal shards that would be nearly impossible to flush.

Besides that, a brand new car requiring a rebuilt engine is absolutely ridiculous. I have already met someone else in the area with a 2015 who's car is in the shop having the engine pulled for the same issue. I do not believe a rebuilt engine is the appropriate fix for this as I can very well see this problem arising down the road (literally).

Thank you,
Mike
Tried sending you a message, but I haven't posted on the forums enough ><
My message below:

Hey man, just read your post about your 2015 launch issues. I had a complete engine failure before I even hit 4k on labor day weekend when driving it from Houston to Austin that is almost identical to your story. Needless to say, its still at the dealership waiting to get looked at (in Austin). Im going to keep reading through the forums, but just wanted to reach out to you to hear what they come back with. I think we might be sitting in the same boat and I don't want them to come back and tell me its something "not under warranty"
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Old 09-08-2014, 12:41 AM   #1047
meebs
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Yeah, because no motor has ever spun a bearing running RT6 or any other synthetic 5W-40
Put the pissing contest aside... Look at some facts and you would see that there are far fewer instances of spinning on a 40 than a 30. The point is that you can beat the house if you know what odds you are up against.

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Old 09-08-2014, 11:48 AM   #1048
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You guys are crazy if you think your choice of oil caused a bearing issue on a fairly new engine. I posted in this thread about the issues the ej has and they are not oil related.

I've seen plenty of short blocks with spun bearings running rt6. Rt6 is not that good of an oil btw when compared to the top 100 brands. It ranks near the bottom. Although all the oils in the list are considered good oils.
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Old 09-08-2014, 11:54 AM   #1049
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I would like to see this top 100 list you speak of.
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Old 09-08-2014, 12:11 PM   #1050
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i bet it has Mobil1 5w30 at the top of the list
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