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Old 05-19-2018, 02:13 AM   #2201
2003wrxforsale
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Add me to the list. 2014 Sti with 45,000 kilometres (28k? miles). Rod knock.

From what I am reading it seems like this is inevitable. Does it really matter what your oil intervals are if it's going to die anyway?

Does anyone have updates on this failure, or tips on how to deal with the dealership and getting a new engine under warranty? I obviously would like to gets this covered.
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Old 06-01-2018, 11:54 AM   #2202
Jmcesmat
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Default Another One! Should I just Sell As Is

My 2014 WRX hatch - Cobb stage 2 just slipped a bearing and now needs a new long block. After reading the stories of this as a repeating issue, I'm wondering if I should just sell the car as is and cut my losses. The car is in great shape (other than a blown engine). What do you think I could get out of it at this point?
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Old 06-07-2018, 03:39 PM   #2203
BrandonDrums
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2003wrxforsale View Post
Add me to the list. 2014 Sti with 45,000 kilometres (28k? miles). Rod knock.

From what I am reading it seems like this is inevitable. Does it really matter what your oil intervals are if it's going to die anyway?

Does anyone have updates on this failure, or tips on how to deal with the dealership and getting a new engine under warranty? I obviously would like to gets this covered.
It's not inevitable, it's entirely preventable. That's the point of this thread; to identify common causes of bearing failure and how you can prevent it.

See post #1 for FAQ on the topic.

But it is a common failure point and I'm very sorry to hear about your issue.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmcesmat View Post
My 2014 WRX hatch - Cobb stage 2 just slipped a bearing and now needs a new long block. After reading the stories of this as a repeating issue, I'm wondering if I should just sell the car as is and cut my losses. The car is in great shape (other than a blown engine). What do you think I could get out of it at this point?
As my comments above, while this is a common failure point it is entirely preventable. The vast majority of turbo subarus do not see this issue. Over 30000 Wrx's and STi's are sold in the US EACH YEAR. That's nearly 3,000 per month.

Needless to say if any significant percentage of them failed it'd be making national news and there'd be dozens of class-action lawsuits and every WRX or STI owner would be getting legal ads in their junk mail all the time. I imagine the failure rate of this type is less than 1 or 2%, that's like 300-600 per year. Those guys must not be that angry because my last count of posts on this thread showed far fewer being complained about here. Not that any significant portion of people even find this thread but it's been at the top of google search results for "Subaru Rod Bearing Failure" for several years now....

Far more WRX/STI's are wrecked sadly.

That being said, I'm very sorry for your issue and as I suggested to the other poster, go and read page #1 to learn more about how you can ensure your engine is properly rebuilt/replaced and what you can do to prevent failures moving forward.

Lastly, these cars hold their value quite well and a fresh engine should do little if not zero to effect your resale price. You'll want some education to explain the issue and why it won't be an issue moving forward.

On other words don't worry about resale value, just learn about the problem and make your decision.

Last edited by BrandonDrums; 06-07-2018 at 03:51 PM.
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Old 06-13-2018, 12:26 AM   #2204
EngineHacker
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Failed rod bearings probably correlate strongly with Cobb AP sales.
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Old 08-08-2018, 03:44 PM   #2205
dmastropwrx
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2011 Sti
Cobb AP v3
ELH & 3 bolt uppipe
COBB Intake with box
stock turbo
cobb catted dp and turbo back exhaust
DW65c fuel pump and ID 1000'cc injectors
stock TMIC

62k miles blew head gasket, but also had bad blow by, was eating a qt of oil every 1000 miles.. currently at prime motoring
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Old 08-08-2018, 04:00 PM   #2206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EngineHacker View Post
Failed rod bearings probably correlate strongly with Cobb AP sales.
And, why do,you say that?
Statistics, gut, you rebuild engines......?
Way too many times I see peeps throwing parts at a Subaru, disregard COBB (or other) mapnotes and wonder why they get a huge repair bill.
So, I ask you, why do you state this?
No, I am not, never have been, a COBB employee or vendor/tuner.
Yes a user, since about 2001 in NA,

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmastropwrx View Post
2011 Sti
Cobb AP v3
ELH & 3 bolt uppipe
COBB Intake with box
stock turbo
cobb catted dp and turbo back exhaust
DW65c fuel pump and ID 1000'cc injectors
stock TMIC

62k miles blew head gasket, but also had bad blow by, was eating a qt of oil every 1000 miles.. currently at prime motoring
Sigh.
This is a rod bearing thread, you lost a HG......so, you're here why?!?!
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Old 08-08-2018, 04:18 PM   #2207
SpicyGrandpa
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I'm just wrapping up getting my warranty service done on my 13 sti.
Been waiting what, 12 weeks now as of Friday?

93k km's. Lost power on the hwy just sitting in cruise control.
Put less than 20 km's on it under my ownership.
Had krown semi synthetic oil. Fresh oil change from the dealership. (I only use synthetic, I fully intended to change the oil as soon as the weekend came)
Didn't get any warning lights or chimes before or after I got the knock.

I was right by the dealership so I pulled in. Engine siezed up when they tried driving it haha.

They ended up fully covering it. Heads were ok, machine shop polished them.

Just a sort of success/informational post.
Make sure you have a full service history before buying one of these things used if it's within warranty. The extra little bit of cash saved me big time.
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Old 12-07-2018, 11:20 PM   #2208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post
And, why do,you say that?
Statistics, gut, you rebuild engines......?
Way too many times I see peeps throwing parts at a Subaru, disregard COBB (or other) mapnotes and wonder why they get a huge repair bill.
So, I ask you, why do you state this?
No, I am not, never have been, a COBB employee or vendor/tuner.
Yes a user, since about 2001 in NA,
All three. I encountered tons of children with too much cash and too little patience at my former establishment. I once had a bright eyed teenage customer who thought it was a good idea to run a light weight VMS crank pully on a 2011 STI. This car of course had a cobb ap and was "tuned". Came back six months later with two spun bearings and a hole in piston number 4. Idiot even had the stones to ask for a warranty replacement. Every mechanic at that dealership would take bets on which newly sold STI would come back with a dead engine and a Cobb AP in less than a year. The numbers would surprise you.
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Old 12-18-2018, 12:42 AM   #2209
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Someone made/posted a super detailed Rod Bearing Failure Replace & Cleaning plus best AVCS Cleaning tutorial linked below.

https://youtu.be/F-GMH_UVzRA
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Old 03-05-2019, 04:58 PM   #2210
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Ugh, I just got my car back from having a throwout bearing replaced under warranty, this is a scary read. I put stage 2+ Cobb in my car just recently after the factory exhaust was damaged, I figured why not get a better Tanabe unit I am not paying for? I don't really drive the car hard and bought it CPO with
about 7500 mi on the clock.

My car now has just under 20k on it, the oil is usually changed between 3-4k miles and I'm definitely going to change the oil weight from 5-w30 to 5 or 10w40 ASAP, hopefully not too much damage was done.

One question I wanted to ask, aside from oil weight change hopefully making a difference, was using a non RC oil. Was that specific change because the RC oil was forming an acidic mix in the oil because of a high zinc content? I had read that this higher zinc content in more modern oils was stripping the factory hardening coatings off of engine internals. Is this correct?

Last edited by MasterOSkillio; 03-05-2019 at 07:29 PM.
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Old 03-05-2019, 05:40 PM   #2211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterOSkillio View Post
Ugh, I just got my car back from having a throwout bearing replaced under warranty, this is a scary read. I put stage 2+ Cobb in my car just recently after the factory exhaust was damaged, I figured why not get a better Tanabe unit I am not paying for? I don't really drive the car hard and bought it CPO with
about 7500 mi on the clock.

My car now has just under 20k on it, the oil is usually changed between 3-4k miles and I'm definitely going to change the oil weight from 5-w30 to 5 or 10w40 ASAP, hopefully not too much damage was done.

One question I wanted to ask, aside from asn oil weight change hopefully making a difference, was using a non RC oil. Was that specific change because the RC oil was forming an acidic mix in the oil because of a high zinc content? I had read that this higher zinc content in more modern oils was stripping the factory hardening coatings off of engine internals. Is this correct?
I would not worry about this. What you see here is a fraction of the number of Subarus sold that are broken, with many more on the road with 0 issues. Nobody comes in here and says "my car is running fine" and a good chunk are modded. Once you mod, well the reliability goes out the window. who knows how long it will last.

Having had 3 of these now, I would not put a RC oil in an EJ. Sounds like your car may be an FA20 if its that new but I dont know exactly so if its an FA ignore me because I know nothing of those.
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Old 03-05-2019, 07:12 PM   #2212
MasterOSkillio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waddlz View Post
I would not worry about this. What you see here is a fraction of the number of Subarus sold that are broken, with many more on the road with 0 issues. Nobody comes in here and says "my car is running fine" and a good chunk are modded. Once you mod, well the reliability goes out the window. who knows how long it will last.

Having had 3 of these now, I would not put a RC oil in an EJ. Sounds like your car may be an FA20 if its that new but I don't know exactly so if its an FA ignore me because I know nothing of those.
It's an EJ, I have a 2014 WRX, obviously I understand that modding will decrease overall life, I was hoping to mitigate some of that with a more controlled/less aggressive driving style.

I guess what I am saying is that while I do want the power that stage 2+ makes, 90% of my daily driving will not be at the stage 2+ max. That with hopefully a very mild mod set, that is made up of quality parts, I am hoping (fingers crossed) the engine will be able to have a long life.

EDIT: just to confirm I should start putting a non RC oil in my car and a synthetic 5 or 10w40 in the car as a preventative measure?
EDIT 2: I wnet out and got some Rotella T6 5w40 synthetic, I am going to start using that from here foreward instead of the 5w30 synthetic.

Last edited by MasterOSkillio; 03-05-2019 at 09:21 PM.
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Old 03-06-2019, 12:12 PM   #2213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterOSkillio View Post
It's an EJ, I have a 2014 WRX, obviously I understand that modding will decrease overall life, I was hoping to mitigate some of that with a more controlled/less aggressive driving style.

I guess what I am saying is that while I do want the power that stage 2+ makes, 90% of my daily driving will not be at the stage 2+ max. That with hopefully a very mild mod set, that is made up of quality parts, I am hoping (fingers crossed) the engine will be able to have a long life.

EDIT: just to confirm I should start putting a non RC oil in my car and a synthetic 5 or 10w40 in the car as a preventative measure?
EDIT 2: I wnet out and got some Rotella T6 5w40 synthetic, I am going to start using that from here foreward instead of the 5w30 synthetic.
thats a good start. You can read numerous threads on here about "why" this happens and how to prevent it.

I just picked up an 11 Premium WRX for the wife, and it was dealer maintained its entire life getting oil changes every 3500. its got 68k miles

I am swapping to 0w-40 Mobil 1 and will continue to change it every 3500.

My STi cracked cylinder 4 ringland right after going stage 2, but I was beating on it and doing many pulls/launches using Cobbs LC.
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Old 03-28-2019, 02:54 PM   #2214
wrx machine wiz
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Default Rod bearing failure and analysis.

To start off with, I have read through all the bs posts on here that have no knowledge behind them to pick out the 30-40 solid posts by people who actually know what they are talking about, no names because itís obvious who they are. Anyways being a Subaru fanatic, I think they are the greatest thing ever built( notice how biased i am).

My first Subaru build was an 97ílegacy ej25d swapped to an 85í rx turbo sedan with the awd dual range tranny( yes awesome tranny) as you can guess I spun a bearing in this because itís a Subaru I had to put a turbo on it 👌🏼Knowing the 48mm journals were notorious for that I didnít care it made lots of power being 9.7:1 compression and was fun for 10k miles before it went, self tuned greddy blue works really well with this set up. I still havenít even diagnosed the block because I got an ej255 long block from a 07 Outback xt with 179,000 original miles with, u guessed it a rod bearing spun. That was bone stock said the guy I bought it from, well bone stock except where he clearanced the block for a bigger turbo.

Upon investigating the damage I noticed it was the #3 cylinder which in my mind thinking ( bigger turbo, no tune, LAST CYLINDER IN THE STOCK FUELING SYSTEM, it was probably running lean and detonated for sure, and for AWDIESEL yes the ringland was broke on #3cylinder as well.) Rod clearances were a tight .0012-.0014 not consistent but tight. So I got new crank rods piston all used oem cuz Iím not made of money, and Iím also a journeyman machinist by trade I refurbished everything and yes broke the forbidden rule and cleaned the oil cooler, and oil pickup, pan and self ported 10mm oil pump, which if your not lazy and have no money and determined can all be cleaned very well. ( my mind thinking well the oil gets sucked up goes through the pickup-pump-cooler-then through filter which should catch anything I couldnít get before it goes to the mains and heads. New clearances mains .0015 king not 360 groove, and rods .002 acl. All balanced and 40 gram lightened sti oem rods with 25cc dish pistons. I used the ej25d heads with this build all ported and polished. 8.4:1 compression. This build went 22k miles before I broke a rod bolt. I drove 200 miles a day to a job for a long time and did power pulls daily. (whatís the point of owning a car and being scared itís gonna blow up, sell it and move on, dont bitch about it on this sight we love Subaruís obviously and I personally donít care weather u donít want the car or not). yes I had 18psi boost the whole time and yes I was at 6500 rpm on full boost in 4 gear when the oem rod bolt broke and then shattered my engine. Being a mechanic for 20+ years understand if u want a strong engine find the weak point and build it better on the next build.
So rebuild #3 I got an ej257 engine from an 05lgt for yet again a smoking deal used. this one had perfect bearings and was bone stock, I saw the car before he pulled it, upon investigation it had a broken ringland #4 cylinder I deemed to be the 210,000 miles he had on the car, so new piston, lightened all the rods again 40 grams and matched all the pistons, used king xpg main and rods. Noticed that #2 and #4 main journals were out of spec but I went with it any ways, they were .0019 the rest were .0017 then I set rods to .0018 all the same. This build failed in 175 miles oil pickup o ring failed causing all bearings to be chewed up, and I honestly think that with king xpg 360 groove bearings 11mm oil pump is required. It ads a lot of volume to the system.
Rebuild 4 this time I got frustrated, and took it out on the oil system. Again cleaned all the parts everyone says to change in an ultrasonic tank. ( it took 10 cycles and flushing of the oil cooler to get it clean, pickup tube had to get tweezers and pick out all bearing material and also ultrasonic tanked it) then ported and polished all the oil galleys and smothed all the rough sharp transitions and radiused all the corners. has anyone noticed the oil feed on the top of the left side block that feeds #3 main, wow thatís the worst flowing piece iv ever seen. I had to really work that area over a lot. And the same for #5 main in the back. I also broke the rules again and got a 12mm oil pump, ported it and polished it as well, then added a shim for 2 total. Mains I set clearance to .0014,.0014,.0016,.0014,.0014 and rods I set to .0024.... ( Iím sure Iíll get comments on this) with arp2000 rod bolts stretched to .0065. Assembled with my ej25d heads and compression is 8.7:1 now with the 610 (1.3mm thick hg) same stock pistons new rings bores are perfect and just slightly more piston to wall clearance with ring gaps as follows 1st-.014,2nd .019. This motor rips and is the smoothest sounding ej I have built , I did the hard break in as I donít ***** foot around. And at high rpm it wants to keep going.

So my conclusion to rod bearing failures are as follows
- rod bearings are way to tight from factory as we know.
- under high rpm and load the big end bearing ovalizes and bearings being to tight they grab and cause bearing to spin**** or break rod bolt and grenade your motor .
-#3 is most prone to knock /det. Because it is last in the fueling system and I blame fuel starvation causing bearing failure .
- I agree completely with our great uncle Scottie get that shi**y oil out of your car right now and run a mans oil come on guys itís all over the internet if u run 30w oil be prepared for uncle Rodney to show his face. There is so many good oil choices out there that do better. Treat it like a race car, put good oil in it, (unless u have a warranty then follow that so u get a new engine)
- I personally run Rotella 15w40 and have nothing but great luck with it break in I use t4 and use t5 for every day I now have 30-40 psi warm idle and max my gauge out at 85+ when Iím over 3000 rpm👌🏼
- with determination I believe all the oiling components can be cleaned but the oil pump must and I mean must be investigated thoroughly for any scars or imperfection after a spun bearing otherwise it will not build proper pressure. Same with avcs but Cams.
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Old 03-28-2019, 03:54 PM   #2215
wrx machine wiz
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Default May be relavent

https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2014/04/11/tech-101-octane-the-facts-and-the-fiction-behind-those-higher-priced-fuels/

For anyone doubting AWDiesel about pump gas please read this

If flame speed was faster why would we increase our timing when going to premium fuel . basic physics guys. Slower burn= more timing , faster burn = less timing
reading that sectionof the forum was like beating my head against the wall
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Old 04-01-2019, 11:24 AM   #2216
BrandonDrums
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterOSkillio View Post
Ugh, I just got my car back from having a throwout bearing replaced under warranty, this is a scary read. I put stage 2+ Cobb in my car just recently after the factory exhaust was damaged, I figured why not get a better Tanabe unit I am not paying for? I don't really drive the car hard and bought it CPO with
about 7500 mi on the clock.

My car now has just under 20k on it, the oil is usually changed between 3-4k miles and I'm definitely going to change the oil weight from 5-w30 to 5 or 10w40 ASAP, hopefully not too much damage was done.

One question I wanted to ask, aside from oil weight change hopefully making a difference, was using a non RC oil. Was that specific change because the RC oil was forming an acidic mix in the oil because of a high zinc content? I had read that this higher zinc content in more modern oils was stripping the factory hardening coatings off of engine internals. Is this correct?
As others have pointed out, it's only a scary read if you assume that every WRX/STI owner is posting here with issues. They aren't. Failures like this are the exception, not the rule but it is a type of failure that's somewhat 'common' on these cars because it's the weak spot and so many of these cars get 'tuned' and hammered on beyond what they were designed for stock.

Read post #1. Follow the recommendations there (not my work, a consolidation of top recommendations from all the knowledgeable people who posted when this was extremely active) and you'll do well to avoid a failure.

A buddy of mine has 240k on his 07 STI's OEM engine which makes over 400 WHP with a 20gxt turbo 21 psi of boost and switching between ethanol and 93 octane. If tuned and maintained properly, these cars can be bulletproof.
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Old 04-01-2019, 11:30 AM   #2217
BrandonDrums
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrx machine wiz View Post
https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2014/04/11/tech-101-octane-the-facts-and-the-fiction-behind-those-higher-priced-fuels/

For anyone doubting AWDiesel about pump gas please read this

If flame speed was faster why would we increase our timing when going to premium fuel . basic physics guys. Slower burn= more timing , faster burn = less timing
reading that sectionof the forum was like beating my head against the wall
this is off topic here at this point....can we not get a mod to delete all of AWDiesels posts and all the off topic arguments that took place back in 2014 or so? We should clean this thread up...
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Old 04-02-2019, 03:12 PM   #2218
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Okay guys... I notice a lot of you are talking about failures on turbo engines.

I see a huge amount of these engines fail on N/A cars that get run hard, and I'm trying to figure out why.

We're talking mostly stock-ish HP, just cars that get autocrossed or rallied. I'd like to build one that won't fail, or at least that won't fail very quickly.

I've built a lot of engines in my life but very few subarus - they just aren't that popular of a car near my shop. Nearest dealer is over 100 miles away.

I was thinking this would be as simple to solve as just better bearings, oil cooler and a good pump, and maybe a baffle in the pain, but now I'm thinking I'm not that lucky.

Anyone have good data on if the rod housings aren't strong enough to maintain shape at high RPM?

What's the best crank to use in an '05 n/a engine? I'd rather not reuse the crank seeing how cheap the new ones are.


I'm tearing down one of these today that only had about 3000 miles on it, was put together properly from what I can tell, but still managed to spin a rod bearing.
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Old 04-04-2019, 01:49 PM   #2219
miles32192
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My never-modified 2013 WRX with 75k mi spun a rod bearing recently.

This happened a week after I got a letter saying my VIN is part of the Salcedo vs. SoA settlement for rod/main bearing failure and that I now have an extended 8yr/100k mi warranty for rod bearing/main bearing failures.

Took her to the local dealership and they said it is covered under the extended warranty. So new short block, oil pump, cleaning out oil system.

Here's to hoping she's not a nightmare when I get her back.
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Old 05-05-2019, 02:26 AM   #2220
vinniev
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I too hope I'm covered. 2012 wrx 97,4xx miles just started knocking today. All stock no mods.
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Old 05-05-2019, 02:27 PM   #2221
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2012 WRX hatch, just rolled over 100K miles.
Got -5.6 feedback knock, and felt a misfire driving into work.
By the time i got off the highway a mile later I could hear the knocking.
Got it towed home on a rollback.
Tearing the engine down now, and found the spark plug tip on cylinder 4 had broken off (and was still in the cylinder), obvious marks on the piston face and around the valves where the small metal piece had been getting smacked around.
Anyone think the knocking noise could have been the plug tip being beaten around?
Hoping the rod bearings aren't done.
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Old 05-07-2019, 07:07 PM   #2222
SuBrewSTI
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Finally finished reading this entire thread, now I get to add to the drama that is the failed rod bearing.

I traded my 2011 GTI straight across for a 2006 aspen white STI with 107k Miles back in January. The STI has quite a few mods.. Tomei MX8265, Intake, 3" Catless Turboback, COBB AP V3.. Etc..

Well 6 days into having the car, I was driving on the highway cruising at 75 and accelerated to pass a Semi, hit 9lbs of boost, felt the car shudder and then it completely shut down. I checked the codes on my AP and got 2 for advanced timing on both intake sides. Threw the thing on a flat bed and pulled the motor at my buddies shop.. I found SO MUCH metal in that motor it blew my mind. The magnetic drain plug looked like an overgrown CHIA PET with all the shavings stuck to it, and the residual oil in the pan had so many fine shavings that it looked like, and had the consistency of, anti seize for bolt threads.

Turned out that my #2 rod bearing imploded, rod cracked and stretched at the crank, and the crank was beat to hell. My Cam journals in the heads looked like somebody took a dremel to them and the cams themselves were beyond saving.

So 2300 in parts and 1400 in machining later, I'll have the motor back this weekend with 100mm Manley forged deep dish pistons, BC Racing stage 2 cams, and a brand new nitrated sti crankshaft.

My main concern, since the majority of info I've retained thus far is from Maxwell Power and his earliest posts, is what Oil should I use for break in and what Oil should I run going forward. I know everybody is saying 0-10W40, and also mentioning rotella T6, but everything I'm reading on the rotella is that it's primarily for Diesel motors, unless there is a T6 formulated for gas motors and I'm just not finding it. Aside from that, if I run full Synthetic 10w40 as long as it's a grade IV I should be fine? I read the entire page from the link posted on page 11 or 12, which I believe was written by STP, but it left me with more questions than answers as things have changed since 2012.
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Old 05-07-2019, 08:06 PM   #2223
neg_matnik
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Finally finished reading this entire thread, now I get to add to the drama that is the failed rod bearing.

I traded my 2011 GTI straight across for a 2006 aspen white STI with 107k Miles back in January. The STI has quite a few mods.. Tomei MX8265, Intake, 3" Catless Turboback, COBB AP V3.. Etc..

Well 6 days into having the car, I was driving on the highway cruising at 75 and accelerated to pass a Semi, hit 9lbs of boost, felt the car shudder and then it completely shut down. I checked the codes on my AP and got 2 for advanced timing on both intake sides. Threw the thing on a flat bed and pulled the motor at my buddies shop.. I found SO MUCH metal in that motor it blew my mind. The magnetic drain plug looked like an overgrown CHIA PET with all the shavings stuck to it, and the residual oil in the pan had so many fine shavings that it looked like, and had the consistency of, anti seize for bolt threads.

Turned out that my #2 rod bearing imploded, rod cracked and stretched at the crank, and the crank was beat to hell. My Cam journals in the heads looked like somebody took a dremel to them and the cams themselves were beyond saving.

So 2300 in parts and 1400 in machining later, I'll have the motor back this weekend with 100mm Manley forged deep dish pistons, BC Racing stage 2 cams, and a brand new nitrated sti crankshaft.

My main concern, since the majority of info I've retained thus far is from Maxwell Power and his earliest posts, is what Oil should I use for break in and what Oil should I run going forward. I know everybody is saying 0-10W40, and also mentioning rotella T6, but everything I'm reading on the rotella is that it's primarily for Diesel motors, unless there is a T6 formulated for gas motors and I'm just not finding it. Aside from that, if I run full Synthetic 10w40 as long as it's a grade IV I should be fine? I read the entire page from the link posted on page 11 or 12, which I believe was written by STP, but it left me with more questions than answers as things have changed since 2012.
If you can find the mention of API SM or API SN on that Rotella T6 5W40 bottle, then it's good to go as your every day / regular oil.
As far as break-in oil, I don't know, you may want to check with BC Racing or whoever is putting your engine together.
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Old 05-08-2019, 08:08 AM   #2224
bluesubie
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Default Rod Bearing Failure Nightmares/Stories (One thread to rule them all)

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Originally Posted by SuBrewSTI View Post



My main concern, since the majority of info I've retained thus far is from Maxwell Power and his earliest posts, is what Oil should I use for break in and what Oil should I run going forward. I know everybody is saying 0-10W40, and also mentioning rotella T6, but everything I'm reading on the rotella is that it's primarily for Diesel motors, unless there is a T6 formulated for gas motors and I'm just not finding it. Aside from that, if I run full Synthetic 10w40 as long as it's a grade IV I should be fine?

Shell decided not to go for the gasoline API spec for the latest reformulation of RT6 5W40 due to concerns with phosphorus killing cats. The changes in the additive levels arenít actually that big of a difference after the reformulation. Mainly a switch of detergent/dispersant levels (Ca and Mg) with a slight reduction in ZDDP.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum..._5W40_CJ-4/SM_

There is a new RT6 5W30 multi-vehicle which gets both the gasoline and diesel spec. It has a good HTHS but low ZDDP levels and some moly and boron.

Mobil 1 and Castrol Edge have 10W40ís and are both good choices even though they are High Mileage oils. If by Grade IV you are referring to the base stocks, donít worry about it. If a 0W40 can get the toughest builder approvals in the industry (Porsche, MB), it doesnít really matter what base stocks the oil is made from.

Last edited by bluesubie; 05-08-2019 at 10:39 AM.
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Old 05-09-2019, 08:23 PM   #2225
SuBrewSTI
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Shell decided not to go for the gasoline API spec for the latest reformulation of RT6 5W40 due to concerns with phosphorus killing cats. The changes in the additive levels arenít actually that big of a difference after the reformulation. Mainly a switch of detergent/dispersant levels (Ca and Mg) with a slight reduction in ZDDP.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum..._5W40_CJ-4/SM_

There is a new RT6 5W30 multi-vehicle which gets both the gasoline and diesel spec. It has a good HTHS but low ZDDP levels and some moly and boron.

Mobil 1 and Castrol Edge have 10W40ís and are both good choices even though they are High Mileage oils. If by Grade IV you are referring to the base stocks, donít worry about it. If a 0W40 can get the toughest builder approvals in the industry (Porsche, MB), it doesnít really matter what base stocks the oil is made from.
Ok thanks for the info! Last question though ahahah. In regards to break in oil, I have 5w30 and 15w50 available to me, which would be the more ideal weight?
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