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Old 02-14-2020, 05:40 PM   #1
siete
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Default WB02 in 2015+ STI

Looking to install an AEM in-line wideband 02 controller and sensor in my 2019 STI for tuning. I've read through this thread: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2805570, but have some concerns.

Someone reported getting Rear 02 sensor "not ready" codes upon vehicle inspection. Has anyone dealt with this issue?

Wondering if I should tap the TGV signal wires instead and use "TGV duplication mode" in AT Race software. I would use the serial ouput to USB, but I've read about syncing issues using that method.

Any suggestions?
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Old 02-15-2020, 01:00 AM   #2
jon7009
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I don't think Accesstuner permits you to force pass readiness monitors, so while you can disable the DTCs for the rear o2 and use that channel for logging a different analog signal, I don't think you can fix the readiness state.
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Old 02-15-2020, 01:54 AM   #3
siete
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Originally Posted by jon7009 View Post
I don't think Accesstuner permits you to force pass readiness monitors, so while you can disable the DTCs for the rear o2 and use that channel for logging a different analog signal, I don't think you can fix the readiness state.
Thanks for the reply. I don't think it permits you to force readiness either, from what I've read. I don't have the software yet.

I don't want to hack into the rear 02 signal wire, then not pass inspection. I'm gonna have to figure something else out.

I also don't know where to source the power from yet in the car for the controller. AEM wiring schematic shows they want a source from the battery through an ignition switch and a 5A fuse in-line. Cobb also recommends powering directly from the battery via relay.
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Old 02-17-2020, 11:45 AM   #4
JSR84
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Originally Posted by siete View Post
Thanks for the reply. I don't think it permits you to force readiness either, from what I've read. I don't have the software yet.

I don't want to hack into the rear 02 signal wire, then not pass inspection. I'm gonna have to figure something else out.

I also don't know where to source the power from yet in the car for the controller. AEM wiring schematic shows they want a source from the battery through an ignition switch and a 5A fuse in-line. Cobb also recommends powering directly from the battery via relay.
Yes, you want to wire it directly to the battery and use a relay, also the ground should go right to the battery. You can use the TGV connections as well. If you still have TGV's you can run them in duplication mode which frees up the input.

Here is the table description from ATR.

When this table is set to 1, the TGV left voltage will be copied to the TGV right voltage as used in the factory ECU logic. When this table is set to 2, the TGV right voltage will be copied to the TGV left voltage as used in the factory ECU logic. The Cobb custom features will still see the actual sensor input data for each side. WARNING - This table should not be enabled unless the TGV drive output is still wired to the factory motor on the hi-jacked side and the non-hi-jacked side is still fully functional as in the factory configuration (TGV sensor and motor). Additionally, running with this enabled will prevent detection of mechanical issues related to the TGV on the hi-jacked side.

Your other option is to configure the wiring and calibration to stock for your inspection. Not all that difficult actually.
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Old 02-17-2020, 02:53 PM   #5
siete
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSR84 View Post
Yes, you want to wire it directly to the battery and use a relay, also the ground should go right to the battery. You can use the TGV connections as well. If you still have TGV's you can run them in duplication mode which frees up the input.

Here is the table description from ATR.

When this table is set to 1, the TGV left voltage will be copied to the TGV right voltage as used in the factory ECU logic. When this table is set to 2, the TGV right voltage will be copied to the TGV left voltage as used in the factory ECU logic. The Cobb custom features will still see the actual sensor input data for each side. WARNING - This table should not be enabled unless the TGV drive output is still wired to the factory motor on the hi-jacked side and the non-hi-jacked side is still fully functional as in the factory configuration (TGV sensor and motor). Additionally, running with this enabled will prevent detection of mechanical issues related to the TGV on the hi-jacked side.

Your other option is to configure the wiring and calibration to stock for your inspection. Not all that difficult actually.

Thanks JSR84. So power and ground direct to the battery with a relay. I see a lot of guys getting power off of the radio or something similar that's already fused for 10A.

So either one I use for the WB02 signal wire to the ECU (TGV or Rear 02 sensor) I'm going to have to connect it back to the stock wiring (disconnect it from the WB02 sensor) for inspection? If that's the case, I'll just use whichever signal wire I can tap into the easiest. Though, it makes me wonder how people are getting away with TGV deletes.
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Old 02-17-2020, 03:10 PM   #6
ifearnoevo
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Your allowed one not ready monitor I believe. This is how they are getting by with tgv deletes.
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Old 02-17-2020, 08:50 PM   #7
JSR84
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Originally Posted by siete View Post
Thanks JSR84. So power and ground direct to the battery with a relay. I see a lot of guys getting power off of the radio or something similar that's already fused for 10A.

So either one I use for the WB02 signal wire to the ECU (TGV or Rear 02 sensor) I'm going to have to connect it back to the stock wiring (disconnect it from the WB02 sensor) for inspection? If that's the case, I'll just use whichever signal wire I can tap into the easiest. Though, it makes me wonder how people are getting away with TGV deletes.
I think using the the 12v source you mentioned as the trigger for the relay would work, but you definitely want to wire to the battery.
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Old 02-17-2020, 10:12 PM   #8
siete
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Originally Posted by ifearnoevo View Post
Your allowed one not ready monitor I believe. This is how they are getting by with tgv deletes.
Yeah, you're right. You can have one 'not ready' sensor. I guess the people having trouble have multiple emissions sensors out.

I can use either the Rear 02 signal wire or the TGV sensor signal. I'll most likely use the TGV since I plan to delete those anyway, eventually.
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Old 02-17-2020, 10:19 PM   #9
siete
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Originally Posted by JSR84 View Post
I think using the the 12v source you mentioned as the trigger for the relay would work, but you definitely want to wire to the battery.
I'll wire it to the battery for sure. Just trying to figure where I'm getting the ignition hot source from for the relay, so it only turns on with the ignition on. Out of the fuse box somewhere. Then I'll add the additional in-line 5A fuse to the controller on the power wire.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 02-17-2020, 10:58 PM   #10
ifearnoevo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by siete View Post
Yeah, you're right. You can have one 'not ready' sensor. I guess the people having trouble have multiple emissions sensors out.



I can use either the Rear 02 signal wire or the TGV sensor signal. I'll most likely use the TGV since I plan to delete those anyway, eventually.
I'd do tgv as well if your going to delete them anyway. I did rear o2 and If I start the car too quickly I throw a rear o2 stuck rich code. I have to turn the key on. And let the wideband go through the heat cycle before every start to keep from throwing the check engine light. Next time I add something and retune I'll get my tuner to delete that cel.
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Old 02-17-2020, 11:48 PM   #11
siete
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Originally Posted by ifearnoevo View Post
I'd do tgv as well if your going to delete them anyway. I did rear o2 and If I start the car too quickly I throw a rear o2 stuck rich code. I have to turn the key on. And let the wideband go through the heat cycle before every start to keep from throwing the check engine light. Next time I add something and retune I'll get my tuner to delete that cel.
Yeah I'll definitely do the TGV in that case lol. Never heard about that issue yet.
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Old 02-17-2020, 11:51 PM   #12
ifearnoevo
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Eh it may just be a one off thing that's just a quirk. But it is something I've noticed so hopefully it helps you or someone else out.
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Old 02-17-2020, 11:59 PM   #13
siete
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Originally Posted by ifearnoevo View Post
Eh it may just be a one off thing that's just a quirk. But it is something I've noticed so hopefully it helps you or someone else out.
yeah no doubt.. good to know, thanks.
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Old 02-18-2020, 12:57 AM   #14
JSR84
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Originally Posted by ifearnoevo View Post
I'd do tgv as well if your going to delete them anyway. I did rear o2 and If I start the car too quickly I throw a rear o2 stuck rich code. I have to turn the key on. And let the wideband go through the heat cycle before every start to keep from throwing the check engine light. Next time I add something and retune I'll get my tuner to delete that cel.
I have not had that issue, have you unchecked the codes in the ATR software?
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Old 02-18-2020, 03:38 AM   #15
ifearnoevo
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Originally Posted by JSR84 View Post
I have not had that issue, have you unchecked the codes in the ATR software?
I do not have atr, and unfortunately it didn't do it when I was getting it tuned. Next time I retune it I will see if the tuner can take care of it for me.
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